Great information. I have been on Marlin since 2014, but recently moved to a new Klipper machine and I've been a bit lost on calibration and quality. Thanks for this great video.

Rotation distance isn't constant between filaments with different hardnesses. This is due to the amount the gear teeth bite into the filament as it feeds it through. That different amount of squish into the filament by the teeth changes the effective diameter of the wheels feeding the filament. As you're already dealing with small adjustments this phenomen will affect the results with different hardness between filament types (PLA, PETG, TPU, etc). This is one of the reasons you need to calibrate the flow for each filament type.

I’ve been using this since switching to Orca last October. It absolutely makes a difference in print quality.

Very helpful - rotation was off by 1 mm - tested 3 times. Did the calibration and then next two test were spot on.

Used one of your Videos Years ago to calibrate My CR10 esteps…(And Silent board Upgrade, My BLTouch recalibration, Setting up my Micro Swiss Extruder on my HotEnd, Dealing with my Tensioning, learning to Flash/ref lash firmware, learning to cura, orca etc..)So SOO many things now that I’m thinking about it!.😂 You are one of the Best, most Helpful Friends that I have Never Met..🤙🏻 Thanks Man.. Rad🤙🏻

Excellent series of walkthroughs. Straightforward, easy to follow along!

Just bounced from Stefan's size and skew video to this banger. Tuning is the word of the day. I used this method on my rooted K1 Max and it worked really well. My top layers look great and my layer stacks are nice and consistent. Thanks for the great content always.

I just got into 3d printing but I have a background in machining and CNC. Very helpful video.

Feeling the flow swatches is a great tip. Couldn't tell by eye for this black pla I'm working with which pass 2 one was the best, but feeling them coughed up a clear winner.

Being able to easily and quickly changing settings without recompiling is my favorite thing about klipper

Lots of good info thanks. Just want to add that flow calibration is also necessary as part of regular machine maintenance & not just filament swaps since the extruder gear will wear out with time and this will decrease the gear's diameter / circumference, resulting in under-extrusion.

been watchin for a while. subbin for this series alone, great job man.

Thank you, THIS is so much better than the FOTM review

Always great content!

Will definitely give the orca test prints ago. Thanks

Can’t wait for the next videos! This method worked great only issue is a had to migrate to OS when am used to PS

My preferred calibration approach is: z-offset, then SuperSlicer flow calibration first pass to rough things out (same as this video), then z-offset again, then run 3 Ellis calibration squares to dial in the flow. The Ellis squares place a couple layers of infill to quench the impact of poor z-offer or bed tramming, and also use bigger surface area and more layers to enhance the impacts of over-extrusion. But the Ellis squares are, of course, a lot slower to print, which is why I do the rough pass.

Please make this into a playlist. Am going to follow ur guides tomorrow after my print is done and i want to get all the best information all in one place thats easy to understand like this video

I've been using this method since I switched to OrcaSlicer a few months ago, but as usual your video is concise and really accessible, great work as always! Now back to my build for the day 😂

I mark the filament with a box cutter knife. Nice and precise and easy to measure to.

Thank you so much really helpful

Gran video! Desde que probé Orca Slicer, empecé a probar estos test, pero no presté atención al orden. Tiene lógica, 👍, thank you very much

I was never good at math lol. But I do need to something like this on my machine. THANK YOU 🙏

First test, elegoo neptune 4 plus, spot on X)

I use Ellis' flow tool -- the test goes through all of the flow rates and you select which one is best based on how the prints look. Seems to work pretty well.

-15 looks marvelous

These guides are great. I hope you'll do a guide (with voron in mind) on how to tune the speed settings.. that's a main thing in cura/prusa/etc that is very overwhelming for me there's so many and I have 0 idea what each do

I just got a smaller Sharpie. Old map marking tip, use ultra fine tip for making precise markings.

I was talking to a orca dev and he recommends larger coupons printed one at a time. More time consuming, but it will yield better results. Further, your top surface quality will be influenced (like the video said), by your Z offset, as well as your solid infill and how many top layers you actually have. One thing to note, is that smaller areas will always appear overextruded, you want to focus on the largest part of the print and in the center of that. Good news is there is an algorithm in the works that will attempt to equalize flow for smaller areas so they appear uniform.

for marking the length filament, its easier to just line up a piece of tape like masking or electrical up on the ruler than transfer it over to the filament

This is very helpful. How does this compare to the k value on my Bambu Lab?

Hey! Love your walkthroughs! Do you think it would be worth it to do a walkthrough on how to tune in your dimensional accuracy and what that entails? Using SuperSlicer or Orca Slicer

You're not getting me on that one again. I've run PrusaSlicer a LOT, but the first time I installed OrcaSlicer to take advantage of its handy calibration and tuning routines, it sent some G code to my printer and crashed it. I still have a big nozzle gouge scrape across the PEI sheet as a reminder. I know a lot of people love OrcaSlicer, but I think I'll stick with my own manual optimizations and tunings in PrusaSlicer.

I’ve read that it is a good idea to run Flow 2 again after tuning pressure advance to really get things dialed in perfectly.

letrs say I have klipper fresh installed and orcaSlicer.. what is the best option... select the ender 3v2 profile and tune from there or select custom klipper printer and tune from there... and what should be the correct order of tests and calibrations?

Would be nice to know about the rest of the calibrations in orca slicer, I've done each of the calibrations, but the tutorial page doesn't say how to input or what to change once you're done. Thanks for this explanation!

I sliced the same file with the same settings on Bambu and Orca. It is an articulated rattle snake body that is pretty complex. Bambu says 7 hrs. Orca says 11.5.

When your finished making these printer calibration vids could you put them all together as a beginners guide. Id like to send my brother who lives in the UK these as hes looking at getting a printer once he returns from Here in Australia. Big Cheers from A M8 Downunder🙃

fun fact if you use any extruder with concaved gears so basically any dual gear system, filement thickness play double role because smaller diameter of filement wouldtouch extruder gears closer to the gear shaft and thus making less distance every turn if your filment is always 1,75mm then you probably fine , but whenever you switch brands depending if they measured it hot or cold during production you may have to calibrate esteps from the scratch then again if you are in a ballpark of 10% you can probably print the calibration prints twice and get to the correct flow without touching esteps because this is almost like redundency

One day the machines will do all this for us. One day. Tbf, the A1 series is already on its way there!

Do you find any benefit to this process over using the dynamic flow calibration on the Bambu A1 Mini? Thanks for the great video explaining the manual flow calibration in OrcaSlicer.

thankyou so much that was very good idea but am useing Ultimaker Cura, can't froud rotation_distance

You can use masking tape to mark the filament. Just stick the tape to the ruler then transfer it to the filament. After extruding, just put the tape back on the ruler. Much more precise than using marking pen.

How do you feel about the single wall flow method? Over the pucks

I have also the problem in Orca slicer that i have only 3-4 filaments Not the long list as you showed

Does rotation distance need to be calculated with the Bambu P1S?

what do i need to do my moving parts stick how do i fix that with this video or no

I tried ellis tuning guide and orca slicer flow (EM) calibration and got 2 different results. You should do a video on this

Can you tell me what Filament and Color is used for the stealthburner at 0:09 ? I love the Color!

Can I use/do this on/for my Snapmaker 2.0 A350T? Will it work?

You said to calibrate at the temperature of the filament. However, my experience with temperatures of filaments is that they have a RANGE of temps, not a single temperature. Therefore, there can be up to a 20-30 degree difference in any filament. That being the case, I have noticed that if I use the upper temperature (as printed on the filament spool), I get different results from the same filament at the lower temperature. For example, if I use the lower temperature, I probably will get a part that won't bond the layers together as well because each layer is too cool to melt itself to the preceding layer. This has resulted for me failed prints, especially ones that take a long time to print and that are less close to the print bed and have a lower temperature as the print progresses. I did one just the other day that simply by upping the temperature by 10 degrees made the difference between a failed print and a successful one. Additionally, although esteps might be technically "correct", filament that is melted more will extrude after the stepper motor just a little faster than cooler filament because it will tend to "flow" out of the nozzle instead of being pushed at a precise amount. Also, the plasticity of filament affects retraction, and more stringing happens at higher temps with some filament types.

Can you do a video on how to determine if flow is too high or too low? I really seem to struggle with choosing the correct rectangles for my calculations and usually make things worse.

Do you have to root K1 in order to be able to change the rotational distance?

I oculd not this this working with orca slicer. each part did have a different flow settting but each part felt exactly the same. any idea what happned?

I've been using Prusa Slicer and have been meaning to switch over to Orca.

Does this get in the way of Pressure advance ? I think you said that should be dialed in after flow, but wont the pressure advance mess with this ??

For darker filaments I pinch a painters tape flag around the filament with the edge dead on the measurement

Thanks for the great detail, this is the same as EM In super slicer correct?

Do you really need to adjust e-steps or rotation distance when you can just correct it with the flow setting?

I just hope that Orca gets the XL one day, Ive tried copying everything over and Orca does not like the startup Gcode for a 2 tool XL. Or I wish Prusa would bring in the calibration modes of Orca Slicer.

Been curious on the order of operations. Someone mentioned: Temp Tower, Flow Rate, Pressure Advance, Max Flow.

I calibrated the esteps just like you showed us at the beginning and ran both flow calibration tests, and my final material flow (for PETG) was 0.83. Is that ok, or does anyone else think that's too much of an offset from something that shouldn't be too far off from 1.00? This is on an Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus with a 0.6 nozzle.

Just ran the calibration like you suggested. My rotation distance was way off and i set it to 60% of the original value. The original value gave some ok results. Now of course there was crazy over extrusion and i had to set the flow ratio to 0.6. Seems like that's a bit weird. The flow ratio of the presets of all filaments will be a off by a lot now right?

I collect calibration videos. MOAR. 🤣

I'm new to Orcaslicer and only see a small selection of "Voron Generic" filament profiles when I go to Add/Remove Filament. Is there a way to quickly add other manufacturer default profiles (like you show at 7:32 in this video), or is it a manual process of hunting down and importing config files?

any way to do it in prusa slicer?

Great video for beginers!

If you're upgrading to a 600mms printer, how would you dial in speeds? Like, what is the order of calibration tests you would do?

Is this benifital for bambu lab A1? Since it has a built-in flow calibration system.

how do I do this with stock Creality K1 without rooting

Is this video about flow rate or estep?

Tbh for flow i prefer the single-wall cube There is a downside of caliper accuracy or minor layer shifts, but the precision tends to be enough Tho this is a great toolless method

Lots of us noobies have Bambu Lab printers. Can you show how to do these things for them? I don't know how to calibrate the P1S extruder.

Why doesn’t my Orca have that many default filament profiles?

Ok now please do this for Creality print

Guys please help me out with Klipper on corexy. I changed my board from marlin(mks gen L to klipper(mks skipr)and my printer got much more louder. I literally use the same settings as possible. Same drivers (tmc2209) ,stepper motors etcetera. The settings difference are: klipper have sensorless home, uart, and the drivers amper set by klipper, not manually with screw. I did try to change Stealthchop_threshold to 9999999,9999,500,200,60 and 0 by activate the spreadcycle. Nothing different. Also did try to.play with microsteps but the 16 was the most "quite ".

strange... my Orca-Slicer has only Creality filament profiles

7:30 my OrcaSlicer 1.9.0 does not have all those filaments, it only shows 3 choices, how do I get all the choices you see?

Not sure the results were "spot on" at 6:21, given that the ruler is skewed enough to be minus 2 or 3mm. The whole proposed measuring procedure is extremely inprecise, but somehow you calculate the rotational distance to the 4th decimal.

I find it's better to place a piece of masking tape on the filament instead of using a marker as it will give a clearer and more acurate mark to measure.

Flow looks good but the ghosting is an issue

Good video., but PLA, PETG, etc, are easy. How about TPU and how the flow test may not give you the most accurate results when dealing with proper layer widths and a pair of calipers.

Still cant install orcaslicer damn it.

I wonder if this is the reason why my prince have bin having all kinds of ripples up the walls 🤔

You did the "without further ado" lie again!

Current_Flow_Ratio * (100 + Modifier) / 100 = New_Flow_Ratio

Im actually not a huge fan of cailbrating the rotation distance, because this varies from filament to filament. Just calibrating flow per filament in the slicer is easier imo.

Fluff

I actually had just found that jar tool opener yesterday before seeing this video, and the thumbnail with the jar tool opener is what made me click on it. I do not recommend that jar tool opener. It didn't even fit any of the jars in my fridge. I printed in 4 different sizes, and they each are able to open a different kind of lid, but not all of them together. Feel it needs a redesign.

So instead of doing all the math we can just tilt the ruler?

How can your esteps be this inaccurate? It would require definitely investigation. E-steps for the motors/gearing can be calculated and is by your manufacturer. Your motor is probably the most accurate part of the printer. Also you can tune your e-steps when you never print with other type/brand/batch filament.

For a mathematically-chanllenged individual like myself, this is a mind-numbing amount of mathematics. I'll be glad when they come out with a printer that has the AI capability to automatically calibrate any given filament. Don't laugh. I know that this capability is coming in some of the newer 3D filament printer in the pipeline.

In my opinion this method is not accurate enough. You use a I will call it „standard“ ruler with 1mm resolution (lets be optimistic and say the markings are right) that would mean that this is 2% flow/ rotation distance per mm. In my opinion quite a high error. I prefer the following methode: cut a piece of filament at aprox 120mm. Use digital calipers and use the offset to put it at 0, extrude 100mm, measure the distance. 1. double the accuracy by higher distance 2. way mor precision with my calibrated mitutoyo caliper than on a ruler

First!

Or. Just print a part of say 500g. As in the slicer says it uses 500g. Just weigh the part after printing. That is when you realize that there is more to this, like density, diameter, and moisture.

it's too bad voxel shipping it prohibitive for canadians

You have excellent videos, However in this one, You are flying through the math way too fast and your video isn't aligning with the keys you are hitting on the calculator.

"With all that being said and without further Ado" LETS GET STRAIGHT TO OUR SPONSOOOOR than the video... I hate this in your videos.

PLEASE DO NOT CALIBRATE YOUR ROTATION DISTANCE USING THIS METHOD! It is WRONG and a hold over from the poor way it was always told to do so on Marlin! Rotation Distance in Klipper is derived and calculated based on your hardware ONLY and it is why extruders like CW2 and Orbiter can just give you the value to set. If you want this to be exact follow the Klipper documents on calculating it yourself (not by using the Step per MM method but by measuing the hardware itself) as there will be variations in parts such as the gears even for the same extruder. While it is still useful to run the check mentioned by doing an extremely slow extrude (or better yet, remove your nozzle or extruder entirely and do it without melting plastic) as a sanity check there will ALWAYS be some variation due to the tension on your filament, the filament squish, resistance in filament path, etc. ALL of this variation should be corrected via Flow Rate in your slicer ONLY! If you change your Rotation Distance to correct for these variations you will ALWAYS be chasing a different value as you change materials, change extruder tension, change print speeds, etc. You should only set your Rotation Distance ONCE and never touch it again, follow the steps for flow rate calibration (there are also better methods than the built in ones) any time you make a change such as the examples above.

Why to tuber always print so damn slow in these videos?