Day 144. 41km (79917kms 7yrs)
The only problem with camping in such a tucked away spot is that you catch no breeze in there, and the room holds its warmth surprisingly late into the night. But it was superbly private and I enjoyed pottering about getting myself ready for the day.
I was revisiting two Berber villages that I’d been to already with my dad on our trip south. The first, Guermessa was - incredibly - even quieter than my last visit when one small tour bus had briefly stopped by. Today it was just me and a handful of men having a heated discussion in the shade outside the mosque. I revisited my favourite bits, spotting new details the second time around, and climbed the summit I’d regretted skipping last time.
From Guermessa it was a flattish ride to Chenini, though these Berber villages are built into the rock face so there is always a steepish final climb to reach the complexes. Up here surrounded by troglodyte homes in the middle of the desert is the unlikely spot that I learned Britain had had its long over due change of government 🥳
Now mid afternoon it was pretty hot, so again I just revisited the stand-out parts of the sprawling ancient town before setting out to find a place to camp. Climbing up the valley camping options were limited. I wanted a flat bit hidden from the road but with very little vegetation there wasn’t a lot to choose from. On top of that the presence of another vehicle ruled out some of these otherwise promising camp sites. At last I found a place directly behind a thick low olive tree which completely hid my tent from roadside view, but it wasn’t until darkness fell that I felt rather more confident at not being found.
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