I agree. It is plus and minus... Cool is for example, you can store the radio in the storage- and transport case of the RocHobby Willys Jeep. And it is true, small radios are really nice for indoors, for using in your living room, ... Small, so good for kids (you can reduce top speed by dual rate even in the simple radios), women (mine) like it, the colourful versions, ... and honestly I like them, too. Especially because even the simple models have ch3 which you can use for light-control. About 2 years ago, when I received my first one (with the 1/24 Defender Amewi AMXRock AM24 = CR24), I thought "toyish", but then I changed my opinion, even bought a blue and a white one ;-) I like them more than my/the large DumboRC radios... (which are probably better for outdoors, but therefore I have my Flysky GT3C and Noble).

@@donaldsneffe I finally upgraded my p32 to the p52 and which replaces my Flysky GT3B. I didn’t do the battery mod so the battery drains fast. The p52 is so good. Just wish it had a dial to make adjustments faster.

@@Diamondbac I think my Flysky GT3C (8ch mod) is even better than my P52 ;-)

Far too many ;-)

That is the RBR/C winch for WPL/MN trucks. I made a video about those WPL winches - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZeCg9Sf3JrQgas.html

It does not increase the power at 100% throttle input (of radio throttle trigger). Power can only be 100% (of motor/ESC/battery). Plus/positive Expo increases the power at lower throttle input (compared to linear, what is "stock settings"), minus/negative Expo lowers the throttle input. Imagine a curve (a straight line is also "a curve" technically). Throttle input (by radio throttle trigger) is always 0% (trigger center position) to 100% (for both, forward and backwards input). In "normal" (expo 0) there is a straight line, linear, from point 0 (trigger center position, power 0%) to 100% (trigger pulled to max, power 100%). But ESCs/motors of those tiny trucks are not very good, so they need quite a bit (of power) to start. In most of those cars you will have to pull the trhottle trigger maybe 30 or 40% of maximum and only then the truck starts to go. Positive Expo makes this straight line (0 - 100) to a real curve (bellied upwards in comparison to the straight line with expo 0; negative expo makes this curve bellied downwards compared to the straight line). This means, already at lower throttle trigger position the car gets enough power to start, you do not have to pull the trigger 30/40/50%. The incline of the curve (and increase of power input) is steeper in the beginning, but flatter in the end of the curve compared to linear = 0 expo. Negative expo is the contrary. More plus expo makes this curve steeper in the beginning and flatter in the end, more negative expo makes this curve flatter in the beginning and steeper in the end. More sophisticated radios (e.g. my Spektrum DX9) do even have several points on those curves you can adjust. This is very useful in helicopters, if you do not use the governer function, can also be very useful in plane rudder control, heli direction control. Dual Rate (D/R) in contrary to expo limits the maximum power (or maximum servo way). No dual rate: throttle trigger way 0 - 100 (for both, forwards and backwards), power 0 - 100%. With dual rate (take any value): Throttle trigger way 0 - 100, power 0 - x (for example 50) %. So you have a longer way (of the throttle trigger) to control less power (for example only 0 - 50% instead of 0 - 100% without dual rate). Using expo does not make the electronics (ESC, motor) better. Throttle response would probably be better using dual rate (with the downside of not full power), using expo can also make to "jump" the truck in the beginning. You have to test this, find a good value. 40 was only an example, maybe even too much. You will have to test and find the best value for the truck (what is always a compromise). Better ESCs, which do already have a better resolution with 0 expo, can also handle expo better. Maybe use negative expo there, and make lowest speed control super sensitive... for example.

@@donaldsneffe You are way too smart for me. Thank you for taking the time and energy to explain throttle control. I will try to do more research to get a grasp on what you said... so at this point, it is over my head. 😅

@@felsenrogers4083 Simply draw a x/y graph, then it is easy to understand. X is throttle trigger input (0-100) and Y is power (0-100). Draw a straight line 45° from 0 - 100 - this is linear. Mark this point 100 (100 throttle trigger/100 power on the 45° line). And then draw a curve, with "Belly upwards" from 0 - 100 (the marked point), that is positive expo, and another curve with "belly downwards", from 0 - 100, that is negative expo. and then make some straight lines parallel to the y-axis, at thottle input (x-axis) 10, 20, 30, ... %. And then check what is the difference (in power/y-axis) linear to positive and negative expo. Depending on %Expo the curve will be more or less "bellied", 0% is linear (the 45° line), and +100% would be also a linear straight line, 100% power from 1 - 100 (throttle input), so a straight line parallel to the X-axis. - 100% expo would be 0 power all the time.

Yes it is worth. But maybe not for the 1/76 Mini. I have P52 and P32. P52 is much easier to handle, ch3 and 4 are buttons/3-pos switches, trim is button, display is larger. P32 makes everything (ch 4, trim, ...) over display menue, much more complicated. Display of 52 is larger and easier to read. Only "downside" if you want so: 52 is larger and for me it is very hard to drive with one hand (so steering with dumb of left hand), this is much easier in the P32. P32 has the form of the "usual" smal radios that come with so many small trucks (CR-18, CR-23, Katana, Atlas, ... 1/76 mini, but buttons, no knobs), AAA batteries, P52 has the form of the larger Turbo Racing radio that comes with the 1/6 Willys Jeep from Rochobby, AA batteries. BTW: Dual Rate ("2-side EPA") is possible with the small non display radios, too. But I guess, you know this already.

@@donaldsneffe Thanks so much for the detailed response. The adjustment on non display is quite tricky and I need that model memories. Bigger radio is a welcome change for me too.

Binding is no problem at all. It is a kind of "autobind". What car do you want to bind?

Yes wondering the same...do I have to buy new receivers for all my trucks?

@@matamorosz No, not for the trucks I showed. You can simply bind them to this radio. Which trucks do you have? It will not work with trucks using different radio systems (e.g. SCX24, Mini-Z, Panda Hobby, Carisma, RGT 1/16, WPL, MN, etc. etc.)

No, unfortunately it does not work with all those new radios of FMS/RocHobby. It is a pity...

@@donaldsneffe ah, a shame, that would've been nice... back to the drawing board for me! :(

Would also like to know.

Das ist ja die "alte" Hobby Porter 7-Kanal, die gibt es eh schon ein paar Jahre. Das war die allererste "dieser" neuen Fernsteuerungen. Ich hab die nicht und jetzt kauf ich sie auch nicht (brauch sie einfach nicht, hab 8-ch Flysky GT3C und Noble). Die wird übrigens sogar in Kanada verkauft ;) (GCM verwendet die und hat ein Video drüber gemacht). Ich hab eh viel zu viele Auto-Sender und weiß gar nicht was damit tun ;-) - alle Helis und Flieger flieg ich mit einem Sender, und für die Autos... Weiß ehrlich auch nicht, warum ich mir die P32 auch noch gekauft hab - wohl, weil sie so billig ist ;-) Turbo Racing heißt die Firma zwar, aber Hobby Porter ist das gleiche. Die Empfänger werden z.B. ja auch als Hobby Porter bei Banggood verkauft (obwohl Turbo Racing drauf steht). Und als Hobby Plus werden sie auch verkauft, und auch als "Rochobby" (Katana, Jeep) und FMS (Atlas). Bei uns werden die Sender (aber die ohne Display) auch noch als Carsen beim Conrad verkauft, als Modster beim Schweighofer, als SET bei D-M-T, und als was weiß ich noch... Video? Naja... was soll ich denn da noch groß machen? Ist nicht so schwer. Menü ist etwas fummelig, aber man steigt durch... Ist übrigens wie bei der GT3C, hat zwar Modell-Speicher wo man alle Einstellungen speichern kann für ein Modell, aber das Modell/der Empfänger bindet dann genau so an alle anderen Modell-Plätze... (bei Helis und Fliegern wäre das schlimm, bei Autos... naja).

@@donaldsneffe Gut zu wissen, danke. Staune auch, dass sie nicht wie bei den Fliegersender das gleiche Prinzip verwenden! Habe auch noch eine Flysky FS-GT für die Autos, finde aber Super, wenn die Sender möglichst klein sind und troztem EXPO, Crawler Mod und alles andere drin haben, wie die 32 ( Hat aber glaube ich kein Crawler mod ) Die Empfänger Preise sind ja sehr Günstig auch bei den Turbo Racing. Gruss

Ich hab mir die andere auch inzwischen gekauft ;) Die 52 ist größer, hat auch ein viel größeres Display, braucht 4 AA, die 32 4 AAA; die 32 ist leichter mit 1-Hand zu bedienen. Die 52 hat Kanal 4 als 3-Positionsschalter auf der Seite, plus Trimmung Lenkung und Gas Buttons auf der Seite. Kanal 3 ist ein Button unter dem Display. Die 32 hat Kanal 3 Button unterm Display, Kanal 4 kombiniert mit den Buttons für das Menue - wenn "nichts" gemacht wird, wird immer Kanal 4 am Display angezeigt. Trimmungen sind zwei kleine Buttons oberhalb vom Display. Zu bedienen ist die 52 viel einfacher deshalb. Für die 32 spricht nur, dass man leichter Einhand-Fahren kann (zumindest ich, ich hab eher kleine Hände), und dass sie halt "kleiner" ist, wenn man das will.

@@donaldsneffe Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ist in der 32 der vierte Kanal auch mit drei Positionen, wie bei der 52? Ist ja nur ein Knopf,Schalter, kein Schieberschalter?

@@mung3019 Ist ein Button mit 3 Positionen am Display - L - H - M, ... also geht immer L-H-M-L-H-M-L-H-M (nicht L-M-H-M-L-M-H)

Yes

Thank you. No, I do not use Instagram. You can ask here ;-)

@@donaldsneffe I ordered this unit! May I ask if this will work on generic ESC? Or I need a branded ones?

@@maeldomain Any normal ESC will work.

@@donaldsneffe Thanks! Do you have a particular recommendation for settings when using a crawler?

@@maeldomain Not at all. There is not a lot to set in a truck. Depending on your ESC you can try to play around with Expo a little bit, if you want, and adjust servo endpoints to optimum. But normally: Plug and play.

Depending on which, either push the bind button or, if it is a receiver with bildplug (the 2s ones) push a screwdriver or something out of metal between the two pins for the bind plug (very strange: It never works with bindplugs for me, tried in several different ESC/RX 2s combos). Switch on radio (first or after, not important) and rx/ESC combo will bind. If it does not work the first time, try again. Always worked for me with several different Hobby Plus radios and rx units.

With original receiver? I do not know of any stickradio for those receivers. But of course you can use any stickradio with receiver with those trucks.

Ja, bringt nix... nach D wäre schon 15 €, CH sicher nicht billiger, unsere Post spinnt...

@@donaldsneffe Ja , dachte ich, besten Dank aber trotzdem, deine Filme sind super! werde die 32 bestellen : )

Autobind, simply put receiver in bind mode and switch on radio.

No

Because it does not bind to this radio ;) (as the RC4WDs, SCX24, Patrion, Panda Hobby, Orlandoos, Rocksta, , ...).

CR-18 yes (the old one), CR-18P not (those do come with new Flysky radio gear). But you have to check, this video is old. The new CR-24 and CR-18 (not P) do also already come with new Flysky radio gear. Simply check the radio in the description of the kit, if it is the old version with Turbo Racing radio, or the new Flysky radio (red dip switches).

@@donaldsneffe ok, I have the cr18p with the small radio that has dip switches. I will have to watch your video again on those dip switches functions. I didn’t see any difference in the drag brake. Thanks

@@Js_junkyard But it works fine - is also in the description. The right two switches are for drag brake, 0, 50, 75 and 100%, you will see it, if you stop the truck abruptly. However, portal gears... the truck will never "roll" as a truck without. I normally use 50%.

You can use it.

Depending on which, either push the bind button or, if it is a receiver with bildplug (the 2s ones) push a screwdriver or something out of metal between the two pins for the bind plug (very strange: It never works with bindplugs for me, tried in several different ESC/RX 2s combos). Switch on radio (first or after, not important) and rx/ESC combo will bind. If it does not work the first time, try again. Always worked for me with several different Hobby Plus radios and rx units.

No - you will need radio, receiver and ESC to upgrade an EazyRC crawler (and lightcontroller).

@@donaldsneffe do you have any videos showing that upgrade? If not could make one since im sure a lot of people with the eazyrc would love to upgrade the electronics. Thanks

@@mikesti8406 I will do a video (hopefully) soon with my Patriot and Arizona. However, it is simply totally swapping out electronics. If you do not yet have those and have to buy, it would probably be better to buy the more expensive FMS and RocHobby versions of those trucks. You can watch my Katana video ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q89jnKeTv66vnmw.html - but not yet with lightcontroller). To do this in EazyRC models is the same, only difference: You can use the stock radio of the RocHobby Katana and only need a new receiver, while in the EazyRCs you will have to swap out radio and receiver (and ESC).

@@donaldsneffe I kinda wish I would have purchased the more expensive ones now. My Patriot is already have receiver issues, i.e. getting stuck in reverse or losing what sensitivity it has when modulating the throttle. Also my son's glacier is already grinding gears in the rear diff. Hopefully someone will make metal replacement gears.

@@mikesti8406 The more expensive versions do have metal axle gears - so they will for sure be available one day. Replacement plastic gears are hard to get, but cheap. I bought them from Hobbyking.

Yes, of course. Added the link to the description.

You have the controller and reciever I was trying to find the recievers seperate

@@anthonyaviles8665 put links in the description - you get them on many places (search for Turbo Racing receiver).

I do not know, FHSS, but not compatible with anything else I know. Here is their website: www.turboracinghobby.com/index.aspx

@@donaldsneffe thanks.

the p62 is out now