TUTORIAL: How to Make Your Own DIY PCBs! - Part 2 - Quick, Cheap & Easy! (Toner, Acetone & No Heat)

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TUTORIAL: How to Make Your Own DIY PCBs! - Part 2 - Quick, Cheap & Easy! (Toner, Acetone & No Heat)

Рет қаралды 54,355

Күн бұрын

This is a 2-part series on how to easily, quickly & cheaply make your very own PCBs! Part 1 is an introduction, explaination and me preparing the board for etching! Part 2 is the etching, drilling and evaluation.
You will need:
Copper Clad PCBs/Boards
Acetone
Isopropanol
Ferric Chloride
Travel Magazine/Brochure
Mixing Bottle & Syringe
Wire Wool
2 x Food Trays
Tissue Paper
Scissors
Drill & 0.8mm Drill Bit
Laser Printer
For those who wish to support the channel, my Patreon account is here: / antonycartwright

Пікірлер: 66

@pcrengnr1 4 жыл бұрын

Thx for sharing your experience. You're on the right road but it needs work. If you had thin traces in the areas that are that pitted, those traces would not be usable and you'd need to make a new board. As your trace sizes are rather wide your board can tolerate the pitting but that problem needs solving. Blue Line is probably onto the reason for the pitting. Fine steel wool is a good way to go. Keep in mind that your removing both the oxide layer of the copper and any skin oils. Only remove the smallest amount of copper needed to remove that oxide layer. The acetone on a paper towel is a good final degreaser and won't remove any copper. As a safety nanny, I agree with Heidi Graham, gloves are much cheaper than the damage to your skin that will occur over time. In summary, the pitting problem must be solved. Gareth Burrows shows a very similar method with no pitting. Please repost when you have solved this pitting problem. Again thx for sharing.

@Damaraja 2 жыл бұрын

You, my friend, are a gentleman and a scholar. Slantje 🥃

@OliNorwell 4 жыл бұрын

Fantastic video series - my only suggestion would be to show us the final circuit working - then we'd know that the method works as hoped. You could even just use a multimeter to confirm continuity between pins.

@jamesgoacher1606 4 жыл бұрын

That was interesting. It is at least 25 yrs since I etched a PCB but then I used Photo-Resist stock and UV Light. Even did a two sided board on a few occaisions. This looks so much more civilised. I am sure there was an "Etch Resist Pen" around at the time to touch up inperfect masking. In fact it could be used to "draw" a free hand track layout. Never tried it.

@pentachronic 3 жыл бұрын

I'm in the same boat as you. I even laid down traces with tape onto the shadow mask film. Used the touch up pen a fair amount. Basically a really thick ink that always bled. Fun days! This is definitely a better technique. I look forward to trying it out.

@dalebertdurando1496 3 жыл бұрын

If you can get a finer pitch, you could use surface mount components and reduce the amount of drilling. Also, as mentioned previously, the tinning solution looks more professional and stops corrosion. Otherwise after soldering, a coat of spray paint (clear or even conformal coating) will also reduce further corrosion due to residual etchant and minimize effects of humidity that could affect performance, esp with high impedance circuits. A light coating of green makes it look like solder mask.

@ExopMan 3 жыл бұрын

FYI - After a few trials, I went with pure acetone vs. 8:3 IPA/Acetone and had much better success. (worth trying if you're not getting the toner to transfer properly)

@vladhristov2316 6 жыл бұрын

Surgical Latex gloves(better since they dont glue to your hand very well) will help you big time. No need to worry for any residue. And also do the stuff over a rag, so it will soak up the chemicals, otherwise your wood and your skin is basically damaged already. Acetone isnt a joke. Good job tho! Enjoying your videos.

@AntonyCartwright 6 жыл бұрын

Hey, thanks vlad! I'm immune to all three chemicals. They have no effect on me. Time tested also... :) Although I wear glasses... It has no effect on my skin, but I'd not want this stuff in my eyes. :)

@pentachronic 3 жыл бұрын

@@AntonyCartwright Chronic damage can't be seen in a short time. Ask any older smoker.

@crchisholm1 4 жыл бұрын

First Attempt: Worked perfectly, but found I printed the circuit backwards.|: Second print: not so great because I moved the paper with my finger. Third attempt: pretty much perfect. That because I designed and printed a hand roller so I didn't have to rub the paper with my finger. May put it on Thingiverse. Thank you very much. I've tried photo resist method and also toner method using a laminator/iron. This is much easier and I like the results better. Thank you again.

@pentachronic 3 жыл бұрын

Neat. What did you cover the surface of the hand roller with ? I was thinking of using a rolling pin with paper towel underneath to even the pressure out.

@khaderalbahar5376 4 жыл бұрын

best wishes for you from Jordan, Your video is a complete and was very helpful according to all explanations enclosed their, good work thanks a lot.

@jrb_sland5066 5 жыл бұрын

Etching with ferric chloride is faster if you heat the etchant to ~40C - this can be done by placing your tray in a microwave oven and cooking in 10~20 second bursts until you can feel that it is fairly hot. You can do this with the card in the tray so long as it is fully immersed. Etching should be complete in under 2 minutes, especially if you snap the cover on your tray and shake it gently. Once etched, rinse the board aggressively with hot tap water, soak for a minute or two in a tray containing a mild solution of baking soda to guarantee that the acidic etchant is completely neutralized, then repeat the hot water rinse. Otherwise you will see tarnishing a few days later, and the residual acid will continue to attack the copper. BTW, my practice with the used etchant is to store it back into another bottle so that your precious 'virgin' stock is never contaminated. Label the bottle, of course...You can also simply leave the etchant in the tray with the cover on - if it starts to dry out, just stir in a tiny amount of hot water.

@AntonyCartwright 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info!

@Wilson84KS 5 жыл бұрын

Do you have and idea how to mask the solder points to paint the pcb? I'm thinking over a half year now about making my own pcb, have all I need but still not sure about that all, but this tutorial looks very repeatable because you don't need to care about the needed to think about the right temperature, pressure and time of when transfering with an iron, I watched and read a lot of tutorials and this seems to be always a problem because the toners have different temperatures of the point when it begins to melt.

@ARMYStrongHOOAH17 4 жыл бұрын

@@Wilson84KS Did you find the answer to your question? I saw a really good video on youtube about UV curable paint which can be used as solder mask. Also, something called Dynamask, which I think creates better and more professional looking results but takes a bit more time. Check it out here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mLKAYMqr1rCRomg.html

@Wilson84KS 4 жыл бұрын

@Hi-Gain Guitar Channel Thank you a lot for the answer. I know this method, but the way they put the paint on the pcb is not very good, screen-printing is not that hard, need to buy a fine mesh and to build a frame, but it is also the professional method, how pcbway, jlcpcb etc. use it, phototransfer and screen-printing, my problem is still that it uses a lot of plastic foil and it needs a lot of steps. I still didn't try anything, but my last idea is just make my own prototypes first and use vaseline and a needle to mask the solder joints, spay the pcb and when the paint is dry brake the vaseline filled color bubbles, not sure if it will work, maybe the color will wash away the vaseline while spraying or dissolve and mix with it, but I think I can avoid it by spraying from more further away for slow and fine painting, want a thin layer anyways. If it works and I'm satisfied with the result, I'll keep it for my own little projects just for me, but simply order professional made ones if I need more than one, when I'm done with my projects, I definitely will think about how I can reach their quality myself most efficient, there is already the idea to print on glass instead of foil, so it can be reused until I drop it and it breaks, but didn't think further how to realise that, needs a lot of development so it will become an own huge project and need to wait.

@popcornshiner3937 3 жыл бұрын

Not bad at all but think I might stick to the laminator method

@electronic7979 6 жыл бұрын

Useful video 👍 Excellent

@AntonyCartwright 6 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@orange11squares 5 жыл бұрын

good job, it looks nice.

@AntonyCartwright 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@Wilson84KS 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing your expirience and that you show almost live all the procedure and the result is pretty good, if I get it as good I will be satisfied 👍 Looks like that marker did a bad job on this or that one spot just refused to get together with any other stuff 😄

@BlueLineofthesky 5 жыл бұрын

Hi. Few observations: Do not use your bare hands on acetone or ferric chloride like that. In time you will develop a kind of contact dermatitis that will heal very-very slow. The pitting is because you use too much that steel wool. When you want to remove the toner from the pcb after etching, use acetone and some free lint cloth. Be gentle. In the end, you can use a very-very fine (soft) steel wool. Just a little bit and NO pressure for very little time. Steel wool especially if is not the finest will eat very fast that thin copper layer. Especially on cheap boards. This is why your PCB is pitted. Too much coarse steel wool and not good enough coverage of printer toner. Other then that nice video!

@dannyyorri2345 4 жыл бұрын

very well said my friend.

@richiedubs1062 Жыл бұрын

Also, may want to neutralize that ferric chloride / water solution before disposing it down a drain (assuming that's the plan). It eats copper.... after all.

@BlueLineofthesky Жыл бұрын

@@richiedubs1062 True!

@MikelNaUsaCom 3 жыл бұрын

hmm, could you use fingernail polish to fill the big areas before hand? what about using it as a solder mask afterwards? or maybe a marker?

@heidigraham2532 4 жыл бұрын

Wonderful video, thank you, however, the mother in me is screaming to have you put gloves on. Well done though, quite informative.

@jamesgoacher1606 4 жыл бұрын

He should have a mantra - "Put the Marigolds on"

@RonnyRusten 4 жыл бұрын

Have you tried to "double print" the layout? I think I noticed that the toner wasn't quite even. This might be the reason for the tarnish. That, or turn off any toner saving functions on your printer, if you haven't done so already...

@ady_k 3 жыл бұрын

Asked the question again for you ! - Will try the double print this weekend

@roberthill9721 4 жыл бұрын

Have you tried using a photocopy rather than a laser print? Pretty much the same and much more available.

@meowwoem6372 2 жыл бұрын

what was the circuit board for? it would be nice to see the finished build.

@ahmet-balci 3 жыл бұрын

i find the ğositiv 20 method is better, and you can make double layer too

@TheWeepingCorpse 3 жыл бұрын

Can you give a link please.

@ahmet-balci 3 жыл бұрын

@@TheWeepingCorpse kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ppibecSr0ZPFdXk.html

@alexblyth1568 4 жыл бұрын

Any hints on actually designing the pcb layout---thanks Alex.?

@hersenskim 4 жыл бұрын

Look for tutorials for "autodesk Eagle" or "EasyEDA"

@strategicthinker8899 4 жыл бұрын

Your third hand is so small.

@OndrejPopp 4 жыл бұрын

Yeah saw that as well, around 7:03 must be the son or daughter...

@patricioantonio4189 5 жыл бұрын

Al usar productos químicos DEBES usar guantes protectores adecuados y gafas de seguridad, además de trabajar en lugares bien ventilados. Es un tema de responsabilidad contigo mismo y con los demás que miran el tutorial.

@ady_k 3 жыл бұрын

love your kid man !! small question for you - what happens when you do 3 repetitions of laser print on the same paper, it would add more layers of toner - could that "tonishing" effect be gone with that extra toner material on the PCB?

@AntonyCartwright 3 жыл бұрын

It should add more toner, yes... What it would mean is that the toner layer on the PCB would be thicker.

@frankreiserm.s.8039 3 жыл бұрын

Great video. Does the ferric chloride etch the board?

@OTZOLOTEPUNK 3 жыл бұрын

Suport Tssop?

@piggybladder 5 жыл бұрын

Have you tried etching with FeCl by just rubbing it on the pcb for a couple of minutes with a small sponge? I think it's quicker. My guess is the constant agitation/wiping and contact with air speeds it up. Certainly uses a lot less chemical. TBH it's really time to ditch FeCl altogether. I'm gonna try the hydrogen peroxide/vinegar/salt recipe on my next project. Have you tried that?

@AntonyCartwright 5 жыл бұрын

Hi, I havent tried any of that no. I have a big bottle of FeCl so I'm not too worried. With the sponge method, you've got to be careful that you don't wipe the toner off! :-)

@piggybladder 5 жыл бұрын

Ah ha. Fair point. I've only used the sponge method with press n peel which doesn't wipe off.

@noggin73 6 жыл бұрын

Ferric Chloride is corrosive and toxic. Please wear gloves! (or use a non-metal tool, chopsticks are good) I've noticed a board I made a few months ago is heavily tarnished. Not sure this is a huge problem. I've been looking at 'liquid tin' products but they seem expensive.

@AntonyCartwright 6 жыл бұрын

Hiya! I'm immune to ferric chloride... It has no effect on my skin. I've made loads of boards now, all have this tarnishing... I've not investigated it properly. All boards seem to work though. :) liquid tin! I'll have to investigate it!

@Grants2251 5 жыл бұрын

Antony, please, gloves and eye protection with chemicals and when drilling, your nails will dissolve and you have only 2 eyes (your girl too). Nice technic btw. Regarding the mesh under ground polygons it is a common problem of modern laser printers and toner saving techniques. I saw people using carburetor cleaning spray on laser transparency films to make them darker/ more color dense. They light spray from 40-50cm equally over printed transparency. It is probably kind of solvent which helps post printed toner to cover mesh holes. Not sure it is worth trying on printer paper or pcb after toner was transferred.

@AntonyCartwright 5 жыл бұрын

@@Grants2251 Hiya! The safety stuff I think has gone too far. Those chemicals had no effect on my hands. Maybe I'm immortal! :) When I realised that they had no effect, I deliberately put my hand in to see. Still no effect. Eyes, however, I'd say is not worth the risk. My children, they're never allowed in my office when there are open chemicals. :)

@tzq33tdq 5 жыл бұрын

@@AntonyCartwright I think most of the bad stuff happens when you remain in contact with the chemicals for a bit, otherwise a good rinse fairly quickly should suffice

@AntonyCartwright 5 жыл бұрын

@@tzq33tdq Yeah, I was working with it again a few days ago. Neither of the chemicals have any effect on me. (Unless I have a cut).

@piggybladder 5 жыл бұрын

May I ask what make of stand is that? I tried an Axminster one in the past which was hopelessly inaccurate.