When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Sjobergs: affinitytool.com/brands/sjobergs Hand planes provided by Woodcraft: www.woodcraft.com/categories/... Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/

It would be a real challenge to find a video that has as much value as these 7 minutes! No fluff, just solid, clear, practical and immediately useful info. Every woodworker should be paying close attention! Also appreciate your respectful and professional attitude towards others like Paul Sellers and Rob Cosman. You are an expert in the field, an endless source of encouragement and inspiration, and... a Gentleman. IOW a rare person!

In approximately 8 minutes, you upped every beginning woodworkers game. Great video. Maybe more on how to start using a plane for those of us who never had?

A friend’s father handed me a Stanley 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 this past March. Changed my game.

Long time power guy who, with the extra time afforded by retirement, is doing more with hand tools. I have a nice block plane I bought new; a 4 that was my grandpa’s and a 5 1/2 I rescued from a thrift shop. I believe the 4 is over 100 years old and the big plane is 70-80. After a lot of videos by the 3 guys mentioned here, all three are a pleasure to use.

Love the way you were gentle when giving a different perspective than Mr. Sellers. Much respect given. Nice. Great info as always James. Thanks!!

Funny that you mention Rob Cosman who absolutely sold me on saving up to the 4 1/2 WoodRiver . I am NOT a major craftsman of any kind but Paul Sellers does have my attention on the no 4 and I have three (not so good restorations yet). I also has the 6 and 7 but... those planes are because they came together in a bulk buy. I have three block planes and I hate them because they are finicky to use and keep aligned.and maintain their setting. I am NO authority of any kind so I listen to all of you. I do NOT disagree with any of your arguments but I will probably still get the 4 1/2. Thank you for a great video.

It’s interesting to hear a variety of opinions on this topic. Most if not all individuals are influenced by very capable individuals like Sellers and Cosman. IMHO, a woodworker has to buy what is required for a particular project and of course what he or she can afford. As a power tool fan from the New Yankee Workshop days, I ended up with a collection of “one of everything “ as Norm promoted power tools. The same is with individuals like Cosman who has now progressed into a tool salesman to supplement his wood working educational outlet. He is probably the current leader in this field and supports a worthy cause. Sellers on the other hand is an excellent and highly skilled teacher of hand tools. What I don’t support in the former is the promotion of Chinese made tools like the WoodRiver line and would opt for Veritas. Lie Neilson’s tool are excellent (Rob Cosman was a LN rep. at the travelling shows) but are extremely expensive.

This was my experience with a Stanley SB4, I purchased 25 years ago. Hated it and decided that hand planes were imperfect tools from a bygone era. Until I saw Cosman’s video on the 5 1/2 and bought one. Over the course of the past 4 years, my whole workflow has shifted from power to hybrid and now mostly hand tools. Since I’m just a hobbyist, this works great for me.

I always use hand tools to clean up power tool marks. Usually it's a few strokes of a No5 or No 7 low angle veritas, but maybe I should give this 5 1/2 a try. The No 4 is the best trade off weight wise (I have like 8 of them LOL). Though it's my 2 cents that it's not really a tool that you can easily learn on. The smaller front edge reference, or how you've tuned your blades really makes the tool take on very different characteristics. I personally really dislike the block plane because I have tiny stubby hands (well relatively). It's always my preference to use a No 3 in its place. I find the narrower and taller Veritas DX series block plane work well for my hands, but I am always banging my finger into something. Oh well, always one more thing to complain about I suppose. Having a larger router plane really helps with some depth related stuff. A small plough plane is great for quick jobs to make dados and grooves. In fact, a plough plane is often faster than setting up a table saw or a router. The combination version is IMO not worth the setup effort and the weight. In the end, the more the merrier, though I find these two are definitely worth having for most people as accessories planes.

When I started my apprenticeship as a site carpenter in England 38 years ago, I was told that I would only ever need 2 planes. A block plane and a 5 1/2. I bought a second hand Record SS 5 1/2 (don't think they are available in USA but in my opinion better than Stanley) still have them both.

As a Swede it brings me joy to see a Sjöbergs bench in places like this. I have two small ones at home and at least one of them are older than me.

I originally bought a #4 smoother after watching a few Paul Sellers videos. Used it for a while and worked well. Then I saw Rob Cosman’s videos and his recommendation for a 5 1/2”. I haven’t touched the 4 since. I’m going to get a block plane now.

I liked how you paid respect and homage to Paul Sellers, one of the modern greats IMO. I also follow the Cosman methods. But doesn’t mean I don’t learn from Sellers, Matt Estlea (UK), Jonathan Katz-Moses and last, but by no means the least, you James. You are all great in my book!

I have a 5-1/2 Wood River plane and it's excellent not only as a feature of its quality but also because the 5-1/2 is an excellent all round plane. Its heft enable it to be handled with confidence as it's not 'flighty' and yet its light enough to be used with ease.

I inherited a #2 block and #5 1/2 plane, but never used them because I didn’t understand them. I finally sharpened the blades, figured out the bevel up/bevel down on the 5 1/2 plane and now I love using both of them! The #2 plane is my usual go to hand plane, I can get paper thin shavings all the time. I bought a $12 rusted junk #4 from an antique store, restored it, and now I love using it too. I’m a power tool first guy but hand planes are awesome when you finally learn to work with them and not force them.

One of the most useful planes I have is a No.3 from Clifton. Heavy, accurate and very well made. Compares with the best on the market. And made in the UK. I gave up buying cheap and Chinese.

I wholeheartedly agree with buying a new premium plane rather than restoring an old one. I would add that all the materials (e.g. sand paper) needed to restore a plane can be very expensive, and you end up reducing a lot of the “savings.” I learned this the hard way. I did a lot of research on new hand planes, and here’s what I ended up buying in this order: 1. Block plane - Lie-Nielsen No. 102 low angle 2. Jack plane - Veritas low angle with two irons; 25 and 38 degree bevels 3. Smoother - Lie-Nielsen No. 4 in bronze The Veritas excels on a shooting board. Also, with the 38-degree iron it both smooths and flattens well. The Lie-Nielsen No. 4 is a beauty to behold and provides an unparalleled psychological boost.

Hello, I rarely comment on videos posted on the internet. I must say that your advice has always been extremely useful and would like to take the opportunity to thank you for all the work you put on this channel. This video about hand planes was just what I needed to try out more hand tools. I was definitely hesitant to start buying a whole bunch of hand planes due to the wide variety of tools available. Will try the 5 1/2 and the block plane. Many many thanks for your work. Kindest regards, David Lesage, Montreal, Québec, Canada

I have a Lie Nielsen 62 and the Woodriver block plane you showed in this video. They are my first and only hand planes and I love them both. I can quickly, cleanly and quietly perform tasks that used to require a jointer, tablesaw or router. There is something extremely satisfying about cutting those beautiful thin curls.

Between this video and Cosman's video, it looks like I'll be saving my pennies for a block plane and a 5 1/2. Thanks so much for the info. Hand planes have been a confusing aspect of woodworking for me, and videos like this have helped a lot.

I own a large number of planes and use them regularly. I agree whole heartedly with the block plane, mine is a low profile 62 and works well with end grain. my go to on first pass is usually the 5½, after that it's what ever makes the best joint or finish. all of my lumber is bought unsurfaced, best price and greatest feeling of accomplishment. People have to wait a bit longer for the finished product but once in hand they do not complain. like others have said, thanks for giving Paul Sellers quiet respect. I've learned a great deal from him as well as that Hamilton guy on a different channel.

Back in 1969 in Freshman shop class we used a Stanley #5 for everything. Just about all of the guys became proficient enough to joint boards of any length for panel glue ups. We didn't know longer planes even existed. Because of that, even though I own a bunch of planes, my old Stanley #5 sees the most use.

You are right on the money that the block plane should be the first plane for a power tool woodworker. When I left the workshop to become a site carpenter the first plane that I acquired was a block plane. A bench plane is on very little use without a bench. The second was a bullnose plane which is very useful for tweaking rebates and close into the corners. My third and specific to my specialism of sash window renovations was a side rebate plane. Hand planes offer an advantage over machines for jointing in that there is no snipe when used correctly. On one occassion when I wanted to lay flooring through a lounge I wanted to produce a long straight edge to act as a datum. This I did with several pieces of ply clamped together and planed like a rubbed joint testing as I went to ensure that they were absolutely true. When using a jack plane I prefer wooden jack planes as they are lighter and with a beeswaxed sole slip like greased eels reducing effort for longer jobs.

As soon as I saw the 5-1/2 on the bench I thought “he’s been Cosmantized !” Lol great choice James, you’re integrity is impeccable and keeps me watching ! Always look forward to your woodworking knowledge bombs, sharing your experience with us is invaluable!

I just stumbled onto this right after purchasing a No 5 1/2. Many complain about weight but being a young athletic guy I love it and prefer it over all my other places. For the exact reasons why you said in the video

Totally agree with you. After watch Rob Cosman last year, I converted from a #4 to a #5 1/2 and haven't looked back. Meets my needs much better.

I wouldn't be without a block plane but I also wouldn't be without another plane in the 4 to 5½ range. My woodworking isn't just about shop projects, it's also about DIY about the house. I've got everything from a No 3 to a No 7 but I also have a second No 4 that goes in my tool box if I'm working away from the shop.

I love the number 5 1/2 for all the reasons you listed. It just works soooo much better than the 5 or 6 for those sorts of tasks. The 5 is just a bit too light to power through tough grain, and the 6 is just a bit too long to be easily wielded for most cabinet size project pieces. But, I inherited a number 3 from my WW1 era grandfather. It’s amazingly better for all the things I used to use a block plane for. It has a toe that’s a little longer, and enough extra weight to power through tough grain easily. Yet it’s not too long or wide to get into little areas that a number 4 won’t fit into. It’s also small enough to fix dings without having to smooth the whole board - unlike a longer plane like the number 4 that bridges dings… The only thing I use my block plane now for - is parts I need to trim with one hand. Or when I need to carry a plane in my tool belt pouch. Both things usually only happen during final install of a cabinet, or fine tuning sticking drawers on furniture. The only other plane I’d HIGHLY recommend for a power tool wood worker - is a number 5 set up as a scrub plane. It’s just the fastest way to make 3;4” lumber from the home center into the 1/2” board you wished they sold. You don’t even have to worry about tear out when you’re planing. Because you can just belt sand the last 1/16 of an inch to fix it all up :)

I was told by my college lecturer that the basic plane set for starting out was 9 1/2 block plane, no 4 smoothing plane and no 5 jack plane. After years in the trade my go to planes are the 60 1/2 block plane, the no 3 smoothing plane and the 5 1/2 jack plane.

I normally agree with you on just about everything you say, but sanding. I feel like if new woodworkers learn how to properly use a smoother and block plane to finish your work, they'd never use sandpaper again...at least not for pieces with angles.

James - watch your video without the sound on. Notice how the block plane is more difficult to use on all but the chamfer. The #4 seems to be doing all the tasks with ease. Yes the block plane is great for some of these tasks, but unless you are in a tight space, it appears the #4 does them all with less effort.

i'm a powertool woodworker and a pro trim guy(cabinets, doors, casing etc etc) and my two "work" planes are my very elderly stanley 9 1/2 block and my veritas LA jack. both are always on jobsites with me

I just watched this video again. Horses for courses. I’ve progressed from being a hand tool woodworker when young and poor to gradually buying and preferring power tools. I have slowly acquired hand tools also. I have three Stanley number 4s. They are what the shops sell and the most numerous on eBay. I do use them with different blade settings. They are really not as appropriate as a number 5 or five and a half. I was given a Stanley 2 and it works well for block plane situations. When there are noise considerations I use my Qiangsheng rebating block plane frequently. Regarding a shooting board. I think it is too difficult for a beginner. Better to use sandpaper on a two by two or similar. I use an edge sander for squaring and trimming ends. You never have enough tools hand or power. Working freehand for most is never going to be as accurate as power tools but it sure is satisfying if it’s accurate enough.

I own about eight planes-my block plane is what I use 90% of the time. Just make sure it’s a good one, like he said. Mine is a Lie-Nielsen, and worth every penny. I’m a power tool user, so don’t have much use for large planes.

I believe power tool guys would also benefit from a chisel plane. (Production wood worker for over 30 years.) I say this because they work great on lots of modern joints.

Good call! I bought and sold a variety of hand planes sizes during the Covid slows, but find myself only using the above two.

Hey Stumpy! I've been watching you for a while now. Before watching this video, I saught out advice from seasoned wood workers & some experts at local wood tool shops. All led meet to the message you shared in this video; I first purchased a quality (low angle) Block Plane, then "went Big" with a #5 1/2. No regrets about either plane. In fact, buying them has me interested in moving away from more power tools and doing even more wood working by hand! Keep these videos coming. I love your work!

If it helps anyone, I picked up an old Stanley No. 5 because it was there and stupidly cheap. It's far more like a No. 4 than a No. 6. No. 4 width but significantly longer but not a lot heavier. Much lighter than the No. 6. Feels good - but it's probably too long for some jobs.

Could not agree more. Especially about the buying a good plane first. I consider myself a hybrid woodworker, since I would never give up either my power tools or my hand tools. Wasn't always that way. My first experience with hand planes was decades ago when I bought a cheap plane from a big box store. I knew nothing about hand planes back then so using it was disappointing to say the least. I can remember thinking "why would anyone in their right mind ever use one of these." Granted, I didn't even know how to sharpen the blade so you can imagine how frustrating it was. I gave up completely on planes and used sandpaper for anything that a power tool couldn't do. It was years (actually decades) later that I was reintroduced to hand planes by someone who knew how to use them. Talk about the sky opening and angels singing! Wow! My collection of planes is now in excess of 25 or so. Both refinished garage sell ones and high end LN, Veritas, and Woodriver. Agree that the Woodriver brand is the sweet spot for quality and price. They are hard to beat. Probably there are many others out there having a similar experience to mine. Hopefully, they will see this video.

I don't have enough room for power tools apart from a table saw so I am limited to using hand tools such as planes. Haven't brought any new ones. I brought a coiple of old ones and managed to assemble a functional one that works reasonably well and have some spare parts left over. It taught me how a plane is put together and how to service one. Admittedly I was helped enormously by you tube videos. Given that even new planes rarely work straight out of the box it was better that I learn to set up an old one rather than mess up a new one. A new plane is definitely on my shopping list though and I'll probably take your advice and get a 5 and a 1/2.

Just got my first 5 1/2 Woodriver at your recommendation. I set it up according to Rob Cosman's setting up a new plane and his 32 seconds to blade sharpening. All I can say now is WOW! I enjoy Paul Sellers but I'm more of a power tool guy and I'm physically a lot bigger than he. The number 4 is too small for my hand.

Sold. I've been looking for my first plane, and you've settled me on the 5 1/2. Mostly shooting work for luthiery.

I posess all those planes. But your view on planes is quite interesting. And I thought thst I would agree. Indeed a block plane is mostly used.And 5,5 is heavy and I use it successfully with shooting board, since there is no need to lift it ))))). For beginners a combination of these two planes is the most reasonable choise

When I saw the question in the thumbnail, my immediate thought was my posh block plane and my fave 5 1/2 old Stanley. I used the block plane constantly and treated myself to a Lie Nielson for one of my significant birthdays, whilst it was on sale. The thickness of the blade and the quality of it means I can get a fantastic edge, that lasts an outrageously long time. The 5 1/2 was a random ebay buy, and once I'd tidied it up, it soon became my favourite larger plane. I love the width and weight and find the ubiquitous 4 to be too small and pitchy for anything I use it for. But if I had to reduce to only one, it would the Lie Nielsen block plane, which I can pretty much make do anything.

I have never had the opportunity to use a 5-1/2, but I can see the appeal. I do use a number 6 much like you describe using the 5-1/2. I also have two number 4's, one set up as a scrub with a strong camber on the blade and another set up as a smoother. These two planes get by far the most use. I don't have a jointer, but I can get twist out of a board with my scrub plane very, very fast before sending it through my planer. I also have a couple of number 5's that I picked up in my travels, but they pretty much only get used if I need to joint smaller boards. To be honest, I find that I get far more control with a number 4 than I do with a block plane, so unless I need to work in very tight area, I will grab the number 4 smoother for joint cleanup and to break edges.

Interestingly, I said these 2 planes are what every woodworker should start w/ and friends argued to say #5. I countered and said but 5 1/2 just works better and faster cause of it's size and weight. Now, almost 7 years later, they agree w/ me. And now you've made a video pointing out exactly why!

This video has upped my future projects quality, in less than 10 minutes. Thank you.

I have not used a hand plane since highschool but have recently found renewed interest. Perfect timing. Thank you for the information.

As a new weekend woodworker, I used a simple Kobalt block plane to even out the dining room table that I built. While I want to build up my tool selection and use more power tools going forward, you can definitely achieve good results with basic tools if you put in the extra effort. Thanks for all your great tips! I wish I'd found this channel before finishing the table, but I'll definitely watch for new content as I continue learning and making new projects.

I have a ton of planes now. Most refurbished antiques. Agree the block plane is the best place for a power tool worker to start. I have a 5 1/2, but I find my go to plane for most things is a LN low angle jack. Easily just a personal preference thing. I hate sanding, so I do use a #4 a lot as well. I'm fact, most of my plane purchase have been motivated by using a sander less. Straight down to the spoke shaves and cabinet scrapers.

I also like the respect to Sellers. With the master-apprentice system gone, he's a master for all us apprentices. But your balanced knowledge of power and hand tools makes your observations really valuable to me, a beginner. I happen to have a cheap Stanley block plane, which does fine if the blade is sharp, and an oddball old Stanley 5-1/4 I got real cheap on eBay. I'll upgrade to a 5-1/2 one day, because I think you're right on the money.

That is so true. I bought a super cheap plane, and was super disapointed. Then I bought a Lie Nielsen 62 Low Angle, and it straight out of the box blew my mind away.

100% agree on all fronts. I keep buying junk block planes thinking it was the plan and then got a #4 and nothing changed. I finally got a decent block plane and stones and learned to take good care of it.

Glad to hear you agree with Rob Cosman on the 5-1/2 jack plane. I am a power tool user that wants to add a hand plane or two to my arsenal of tools. I had already decided to get a low angle block plane, and now I,m thinking I’ll go ahead and get a 5-1/2. Thanks for helping me decide!

Agree with James' assessment except that the modern 5 1/2 is too heavy, for my liking and the wider blade shaving is harder to push. The no 5 is a perfect balance of weight and 'pushability'. Also the 2" iron is easier to sharpen.

Totally agree on the 5 1/2. I bought a 5 and a 6. One is a little too big, one is a little too small. Bought a 5 1/2 and its perfect length, width and weight. But I disagree in the block plane. The number 3 is waaaaay better IMO. It’s a slightly longer block plane that you can use with 2 hands - and that has a long enough toe to smooth dovetails and box joints without a lot of concentration. It also has a tiny bit of extra weight that helps with end grain and areas prone to tear out.

You speak truth. I first got frustrated by a plane in 1974 and have avoided them whenever possible ever since.

good to see that a tradesmen like using his hand tools. As you commented power tools tend to be the tool of preference. I was thought to use my hand tools before I was allowed to use the power tools. The beauty of using hand tools is the satisfaction of the final finish that is achieved along with the internal pleasure you get at the finish.

I am that hybrid wood worker and this is Spot ON. The block and 5 are what I use 95% of the time. The other 5% is a shoulder plane

Thank you for the Hand Plane suggestions. I'm wanting to add to my hand tool collection, and this has been extremely helpful.

I have always appreciated your views. Like others that watch your vids, I also watch many other vids to get a full perspective on the subject. You are consistent, and respectful of others. I have always bought the best I can afford to eliminate spending money twice on the same tools. Performance of the tool and the return on the money is top priority for me. Thanks for helping me make solid decisions on tools .

As a primarily power tool user, I appreciate and agree with your comments, with absolutely no disrespect to Mr. Sellers. Thanks.

A few planes make so much sense; very often some small task is done and forgotten about using a plane while you'd still be setting up and getting ready to use a power tool. Excellent!!

Literally just bought my first all around plane and it was a 5 1/2 🤟

Amen, Stump, and as nice as 5-1/2s are, they're kind of scarce and expensive on the used market. #6s however, are plentiful and cheap. Millions of carpenters lugged them to the job site for generations to have many of the same attributes you've mentioned for the 5-1/2 plus they're a little better suited to jointing. At tool swap meets you ought to be able to get a battered and maybe rusted #6 with rosewood handles and no casting breaks or boogered oddball threads pretty quickly for about the same money as a #4. I happened into the pieces to put together a 606 Bedrock, put a premium blade in it and am tuning it for use in a shooting board. Pretty snoot, huh?

I am new to fine woodworking and I am learning the Art of Lutherie in order to make Venezuelan Cuatros (a 4 string instrument similar to a Baritone Ukelele). I will be using power tools in combination with hand tools; So far, I have a DW735 planer with helical cutterhead and a Veritas Apron Hand plane with regular blade and toothing blade; I agree with you that I would benefit more from a 5 1/2 plane and a block plane to compliment my power tools. Thank you for your videos!

Hi James, as a hand tool woodworker and a follower of Paul Sellers I agreed with all you said about the hybrid woodworker the only difference is I prefer a no6 but then I'm a big bloke. Regards Jim UK.

Your video is really making me rethink about my idea... I am the shop teacher in a high school. We have 16 Stanley No. 5s and I need more. Finding No.5's is hard so I'm looking to get something else. I was thinking of No. 4's but you suggest No. 5 1/2. The kids are using them to plane rough milled 8/4 pine. I'm worried that the 5 1/2's are too heavy for some of the kids. But, people keep referring to the No. 4 as a smoother and a No. 5 as a scrub plane. Confusing!

I think that you're not wrong. Thank you - I hadn't thought about hand plane complementing power tooling before. Thank you.

good call it is #7 for me for most ad hoc edge jointing or to quickly flatten a single board. and I recently invested in rabbet / rebate block plane, which was one of my best purchases. I can now clean the rabbets/ rebates or shoulders, and do everything else that block planes can do. I like that edge to edge blade capacity of the rabbet block plane.

My block plane lives in my apron. There are so many times where reaching for it is just the most practical tool for the job. I had a project that needed some very small wrap around external trim. I cut a piece wrong and I was out of new pieces, so I scarfed two shorter ones together. My block plane flushed the two up in just a few passes. Once painted, I couldn’t even tell where it was.

Love all your videos. This particular one is probably best for a beginner. It seems to me all accomplished tradesmen have a favorite way to do everything, none are better or worse than the other. They're just special to that individual.

This is very helpful and I appreciate it. One question, I’ve been told a plane on a shooting board shouldn’t have any camber on the blade but a slight camber is often used on a plane for smoothing. If I get a 5 1/2 should I not have any camber? I know the slightest camber is sometimes added to avoid any ridges left by the two corners of the blade.

I mostly agree with your opinions here. The premium planes seem to be heavy, which is fine for a short time. This is ok for hybrid woodworkers. For those without planer thicknessers who plane for long periods then I would recommend a Stanley with an upgraded blade. I have a Stanley number2 and find it an alternative to a block plane. Even more versatile than a block plane is a rebating block plane. However it does have sharp edges to avoid when gripping it. My Qiangsheng number 5 has the most comfortable handle, less backlash and blade, but I rarely use it as it is so heavy. I keep it in a cupboard to admire it most of the time!

May I suggest a no. 5 hand plane is better than a 5 1/2, why for most people A 5 1/2 is heavy and bulky to handle, a a no.5 is sleek and light. And if you are trying to do some fine work, light and sleek works. cheers from Tasmania like you video .

I couldn't agree more about not skimping on planes and just buying a new premium plane. I got a Veritas low angle block plane and it is as good as they say. Also, smoothing large surfaces with a plane is so much more pleasant than power sanding. I think it takes less time, too.

Solid advice! I do mostly hand tool wood working, but the 5-1/2 and block plane (9-1/2) are my go to planes whether it is hand tool or power tool wood working.

Nice discussion without demeaning power tool workers. Some channels seem to have the perspective of if you use power tools you're not doing wood working right.

I fully agree with you on your choices. I am a Paul Sellers devotee but I have found that a block plane and Sargent VBM (an equivalent to the 5 1/2 without the stupid cost) are my most used planes.

Paul Sellers who recommends a #4 for overall work believes block plane doesn't often use or recommend block planes. But I listen to several WW channels, your own, Rob Cosman, Matt Estlea and a few others, and opinions naturally vary. I am a hybrid WW and use a Wood River 4 1/2 and block plane, finding them just fine for the small projects I do. I use machines for initial stock prep because I hate this part - like sharpening. Then I clean up the faces and edges with the hand planes to produce the clean, shiny final surface without having to sand (which I also dislike). Respect your opinions and enjoy the channel.

I find this video interesting. I never thought about it but these are the only two planes I reach for. My Dad had several and now they are in my shop. The block plane and #5 1/2 get used most every day. These two old planes work well but the new quality planes do have some advantages. Well constructed and thicker blades. If I didn't have these I would go shopping. Great advice Stumpy! Thanks!

Thank you. As a very good price compelling argument for both of these planes I'm sold on the five-and-a-half thank you

Solid advice, I have some very similar but much older planes that were my grandpa's from the early 1920s, very nice to use and very versatile

Hi James. Brilliant! This is a topic I've struggled with. When I started to learn about woodworking some sixty years ago, hand tools were almost the only thing available. Dad had a very basic table saw, a Skill circular saw and a 1/4" electric drill, so I learned a bit about hand tools. Fast forward to now and I have a fully equipped shop filled with power tools. I do have a couple cheap hand planes and while they are useful, a silk purse cannot be made from a sows ear. Now I know what to buy, a good brand to search out and why. You are truly a gem, there are so many enhancements to my shop that originated right here. Thanks so much for sharing!

I’d be tempted to pick up the smoother first. The absolute worst part of a project is sanding and planing is actually pretty enjoyable.

Proper use and selection of the best hand lane takes good amount of practice. I never really learned how use a hand plane. Exploring more now. Thanks for this video.

Thank you, this video came just in time.

Just yesterday I bought this exact same block plane new at Woodcraft for the same reason you state here. I wanted to get the best new one that I can afford, rather than a used one that potentially was tortured during use or not restored properly. If I ever see the need for larger plane jobs, I will get that 5-1/2 as well.

Great call. As I am hand plane shopping for my first planes, this is great guidance. Thank you!

I think that was the best advice ever

Thanks for sharing those tips!

Excellent perspective for those of us that employee a hybrid power tool / hand tool process!

Great discussion James. Thanks.

Just once I want to see a hand-plane video that uses wood with knots or reversing grain like virtually every board you can find at a home center.

I use the #4 first and I agree with Sellers. I like the older Stanleys better than my LieNielsens. I use the #3 before I use my block planes.

I love my 4 1/2. The wider body and a bit more weight really makes a difference.

Well said. Thanks for all your time and effort.

I've watched your videos for over a year now and I've never owned a hand plane... guess I should look into getting a few... thanks for a starting point.

More hand tool videos please. I'm just now getting into using them along with power tools and I need all the advice I can get.