Two Ways to Increase Sleeve Mobility

Рет қаралды 10,183

Күн бұрын

This week on Fit Tip Tuesday, I'm tackling another issue you can run into when you're working on a top with a non-stretch fitted sleeve. If you can pick up your arms... Or, if your sleeve and back feel snug when you try to bring your arms forward... I've got two easy fit adjustments for you!
Think about your armhole like it's a hinge. If the base of the armhole is too low, it will limit the range of motion you have when you try to pick up your arms. I'll show you how to raise or fill in the base of the armhole to get it up to where it should be. If the base of your armhole is in the right spot and your sleeve feels snug when you try to move your arms forward, I have a fix for that too! Join me and I'll show you how!
00:00 Intro
01:20 Sneak Peek at the shaped hem on my easy breezy summer shirt
02:52 What happens when the base of your armhole is too low
04:06 What my adjusted pattern pieces look like
07:12 How my adjusted sleeve fits (second muslin)
08:25 How to raise the base of the armhole
10:08 How to fill in the wings of the sleeve cap to increase mobility
14:56 Review of these two fit adjustments and what's coming up
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Пікірлер: 63

@avalonacresfarm2267 Ай бұрын

Thanks so much for sharing. There is lots of good advice! For your blue shirt, perhaps you could create a gusset to save it. Just a thought, it was turning out really nice

@JSternDesigns 29 күн бұрын

Thanks!... maybe I will get back to that shirt!! Thanks for watching

@722dabba Ай бұрын

thank you

@JSternDesigns Ай бұрын

My Pleasure, Thanks so much for fitting along with me

@sharonscott8358 Жыл бұрын

I've got a blouse that I made that turned out with little movement in the sleeve, so took it out but wasn't sure what to do to correct it. Thank you, you have just explained what I have to do. By the way, I love that linen blend fabric, really summery.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

So happy to hear this helps you! ...and I've already stuffed the leftover fabric into the washing machine! Thanks for watching

@tanathurgaland6708 Жыл бұрын

I missed because I didn’t know what time you start on Tuesdays. I’m watching your video and I love it when we ca hear your gears turning as you figure out how to explain something. It helps to know that you, too, can get confused!

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

:) This week, Fit Tip Tuesday was super late... It's normally uploaded to release at 1:00 pm edt! ...also, it's a uploaded video not a live stream. My gears are always turning because I have three projects going at any one time! Thank you for following along!

@Sheri... Жыл бұрын

Thank you! This was very helpful.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

My Pleasure! Thanks for watching

@Drtrtm Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Your video came just when I'm struggling to correct my sleeved fitted top that's causing some restriction when bending my arm. I also find that after I think I've properly located my shoulder tip, I need to move it further up the shoulder to bring more mobility to the sleeve. It's puzzling when the standard advice is to lengthen the shoulder when adding sleeves to sleeveless (not cut-in) dress patterns.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

My Pleasure!! I had the same issue, I thought it was in the right spot until I got both sleeves on! Sleeveless designs are often shaped so the armhole is cut away from the tip of the shoulder, so in those cases, the shoulder seam needs to be extended back to the tip of the shoulder... But sometimes sleeveless armholes it on the tip of the shoulder... so you have to check! Thanks for fitting along with me

@earthangellibra2925 Жыл бұрын

I actually had to do this on some ready made blouse I Bought for work. Thank God I bought one size bigger so there was enough for the adjustment. Thanks for this video.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

:) thanks for fitting along with me!

@prof_pudge Жыл бұрын

Perfect timing! Just working on a shirt and couldn't figure out why the back was tight when I moved my arms. I knew I could find my answer on your channel. Thanks again, Jen!!!!

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

So happy to help! Next Tuesday I'm going to share a hybrid fit adjustment that helps add ease to the cap and bodice all in one. This adjustment is for square shoulders (larger than avg shoulders) & a "rectangle" torso shape (aka my shape!)

@jgsawka Жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing these tips! It was so helpful!! ❤

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

Thanks so much! and thank you for fitting along with me

@cassandranagy108 10 ай бұрын

Love ittttt, finally a clear explanation for this issue. Thank you!

@JSternDesigns 10 ай бұрын

Glad it helped! Thanks for fitting along with me

@elizharber3564 Жыл бұрын

Really helpful!

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

Thank you! and thanks for fitting along with me!

@pennyf9886 Жыл бұрын

thank you for this, super helpful for structure garments.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me

@madgemccoy4695 10 ай бұрын

Love your videos, I am trying to upcycle a lot of things and you’re helping me figure out soultions to my issues. Thanks so much for you time an honesty.

@JSternDesigns 10 ай бұрын

My Pleasure! I'm so happy to hear you're upcycling things!! Love it & thanks for following along with me

@kathyfox5349 Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I am going to try this

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

Yay, Keep me posted if you need help! Thanks for fitting along with me

@haidybreidel9059 5 ай бұрын

Thank u Very helpful information

@JSternDesigns 5 ай бұрын

Thanks so much! and thanks for fitting along with me

@dpointer1073 2 ай бұрын

I would like to say Thank you so much for this video. I’ve experienced so many problems with getting my sleeves right! I watched this video and suddenly it all became so clear..! And proved to be successful after following your advice!

@JSternDesigns 2 ай бұрын

I'm so happy to hear that this helped you fit your sleeve! Thanks for watching

@kimhandy1861 Жыл бұрын

Thanks much! That's a great tutorial. Sad about your pretty blue blouse but love that hem detail!

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

:) Thanks! ...I'm a little sad about the blue fabric blouse too Thanks for fitting along with me

@madgemccoy4695 10 ай бұрын

Hi could you not take up the shoulder seam to shorten the armhole?

@myinnermagpie Жыл бұрын

I just lowered an armhole on a blouse and I was surprised what a difference it made to the back fit.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

:) I'm so happy this helped you! Thanks for fitting along with me

@debbiebacot6667 Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. I am starting to understand more and more of what you are teaching. So much to learn. I am making a tee, only my second garment, and I tried to make a couple adjustments to the bust area, now the pieces don’t match. That’s ok, I am learning as I go.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

:) That's how you learn! Keep in mind that if you make a fit adjustment that changes a seam that sews together with another seam... you need to make a like adjustment to the other seam. So, for example, if you lengthened the side seam while adjusting the front bust area, you would also need to lengthen the back side seam so they sew together! (The center front and center back edges never need to be the same length because they don't sew together.) :) Thanks for following along with me!

@barbaraferron7994 8 ай бұрын

Idea:To both narrow the shoulder, and raise the arm hole. 1. Make a tracing of front bodice. 2.Cut tracing along armscye seam line.3. On top of cardboard or something you can stick a pin into, line up tracing with original 4. Put a pin into notch to make a pivot point. 5.Pivot tracing so that the arm hole top is further in on shoulder. This should raise the underarm. 6.True up side seam. 7 Do the same on the back. Now you can be sure the armhole size remains the same. I just thought of this so I have not tested it.

@JSternDesigns 8 ай бұрын

That's the Pivot/Slide method of fitting... another great option!! Thanks for watching :)

@velvetstitching3631 18 күн бұрын

I'm working on wedding gown with a "peasant style" full sleeve that attaches to the bodice. I can tighten the elastic edge for over the shoulder, but the underarm needs to have fabric added to raise it up - I am not able to find the same fabric. Good video - but I'm still stuck. I am not sure how to modify her bodice and sleeve to give more mobility. Thank you for the video. 😊

@JSternDesigns 15 күн бұрын

That's a tricky one... Can you pick up the shoulder a little bit to drag up the base of the armhole a little bit? (This will also pull up the bust dart or princess seam shaping). If you can't do that... maybe try to find some fabric that coordinates (vs. matches) the gown. You're only going to need a slender slice of fabric to bring the armhole up. Maybe something sheer like silk organza that you can use two layers of (sew them to the inside and outside of the armhole and then try them as a single layer to sew the sleeve back in.) ...Hope this helps... I wish I had a better answer for you!!

@velvetstitching3631 15 күн бұрын

@@JSternDesigns yes - great advice! I added some to the inside lining of the sleeve and yes, shortened the elastic on the top to pull up the bodice. Trying to avoid seams that may not have holding power. She is athletic (jump rope competitor) and the dancing will include raised arms. Your answer was helpful. Confirmed what I thought. Thank you!

@CharlottevanderWalt12345 22 күн бұрын

You are so good, that is the secret

@JSternDesigns 22 күн бұрын

Thanks so much... and thanks for fitting along with me

@maycornelius3101 7 ай бұрын

Hi mam very well explained. Very few people put the garment onn n explained, please can u help me n explain the same way for a ladys pants cutting May

@JSternDesigns 7 ай бұрын

Thanks... There are a lot of things that may be going on with pants... Do you have a specific fit issue?

@viralprimenetwork Жыл бұрын

The tips and techniques you shared are incredibly valuable, and I couldn't help but reach out to you via email to express my excitement and propose a collaboration opportunity.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much... just a heads up, I only do sewing related collaborations

@marywest2896 Жыл бұрын

I am new to your channel, and very new to sewing, very new, sewed in home ec, but that was stressful due to my body size and bullying...so many years later I want to try to sew some simple dresses to wear....my ignorant question about your blue shirt....it's hole can't be fixed, BUT what about using a gusset to make up the material you need and to do away with the hole....yes it may be seen some, but who cares? it is so lovely no one will notice and if they do they will just think it is part of the design....is this suggestion ignorant? could it work? man I hate that all your lovely work and the shirt is so lovely, it seems worth a try...I guess my sew ignorance is showing...

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

I'm sorry to hear about your stress about your body size. Please know that every size is beautiful!! That's why we sew our own clothes. It's the job of the pattern and the garment to fit us, not the other way around! You can use a gusset to add mobility :) Please keep me posted if you ever have specific questions about what you're sewing! Thanks for fitting along with me

@judyvoss6299 Жыл бұрын

So - what about having enough room for the shoulder ball? Looks like on your white muslin the lines are diagonal and pulling.

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

:) stay tuned!! I wanted to get the info about increasing mobility out this week… next week I’m going to share how the sleeve is affected by a broad back and square shoulders (more of a hybrid adjustment that affects the front/back bodice & sleeve cap) … thank you for fitting along with me… (I was going to talk about that too… but I almost threw my camera out the window because it kept shutting off… new batteries are on the way)

@kstahl9281 Жыл бұрын

@@JSternDesigns is this video out yet?

@glitzyeyezz5252 7 ай бұрын

Help please. I have drafted a two dart bodice block and fits like a glove. But when I attach a sleeve, I find it pulling and making me not to move my arm much. The armhole of the bodice is too perfect for a sleeveless bodice. Question is how to make it into a sleeve draft?

@JSternDesigns 7 ай бұрын

Maybe you don't have enough ease in the bodice? Can you send me some photos of your front/back and side views so I can see what's going on? jsterndesigns37@gmail.com (Then I may be able to figure out how to adjust the pattern pieces so they fit properly!)

@glitzyeyezz5252 7 ай бұрын

Hi Jen, thank you so much. I drafted a bodice block following your tutorial. It fits me nicely. I am happy with the sleeve too. But I have pooling of fabric at the underarm. My muslin has gone through so much😅. I will sew one tomorrow and will send you pics. ❤ PS I have been trying to make a bodice block for more than 2 years. NONE fit me this close. Thank you ❤

@maycornelius3101 7 ай бұрын

Hi how did u take the measurement to design this

@JSternDesigns 7 ай бұрын

I generally make a 1/4" - 3/8" adjustment and see how it works... then I can fine tune the fit... Hope this helps! Thanks for watching

@tanathurgaland6708 Жыл бұрын

You raised your dart. What if you raised it across the arm scythe and kill two birds?

@JSternDesigns Жыл бұрын

That's a great question... and the answer is that I could have cut through the armhole to raise the bust dart 1/2"... then I would have had to raise the base of the armhole the other 1/2" (I needed 1" total & I only raised the bust dart 1/2"). Also, dart was raised before I realized I needed to fill in the base of the armhole! ...But I like how you're thinking! (There's always more than one way to get the job done!)