love it when i see a new person showing games i am playing. the items in the pop up menu is by in large better when you select the last one in the line, however, there is things certain towers can do, others that just cant and things that can be used in certain ways where others cannot, by selecting one tower, you can still use casemates on the same hull you just cant use casemates, other front/rear towers can have certain attributes such as towers that are better for long range, and others that are able to recover from combat faster then others, and others that are just much too big to fit on ships you can build super small for a cheap but really good tower that is able to fit on a smaller ship.

I will say that I definitely have my own opinions on the quality of your design choices, but I’ll stay my tongue. After all, I was curious as to what someone new to the game would do when starting a campaign, so I can’t really complain all that much… Although, a couple points I noticed while watching: - You can actually put funnels atop the raised section which are attached to the front and back towers of the small battleship. Might just need a little finagling. - In regards to ship speed, if you mouse over the hulls it gives you a recommended speed that those hulls can reasonably reach. - Also, I’m pretty sure that you can just type the number you want instead of using the sliders when in the ship designer. This might be a bit easier for you to work with.

With the Coastal Defense ship, you need to keep checking the firing arcs of the main guns as you add smaller guns. Some of them aren't worth adding. I found you can reverse the placement of guns on one side vs. the other to avoid blocking the arcs. You can remove the gun on just one side by left clicking on it to pick it up, then right clicking to remove it. That way it doesn't remove them from both sides. I also found I could put a dual 9" or 10" turret on the rear of the top deck, centerline, then put 6" secondaries on the two main spots. The secondaries don't block the firing arc of primaries, but primaries do block the firing arcs of secondaries (and other primaries). I also put 6" casemates on. I then like to focus research on getting to 8" secondaries, which make this hull much more effective. If you use the Dual Funnel III, you can put a 3" casemate on each one that has a nice large arc. Much better than the 3" casemates built into the hull. Choosing a 9" instead of a 10" can be good just to make it easy to refit it with a 9" Mk 2.

14:37 - 16:02 You could lengthen the Hull by decreasing the Beam; and, decreasing the Draught. You should be able to fit at least one of those Single-Smokestack Funnels in between the two Superstructures. 8,500-Ton Maximum Dock Size really sucks; especially, when one wants a Battleship.

21:47 - 22:47 During this Time Period, Armored Cruisers were slower than Light Cruisers. Armor and Armament was the priority of Armored Cruiser Designs. Speed and Armament was the priority of Light Cruiser Designs. I do think that a 15 Knot - 16 Knot Armored Cruiser Design is a good Speed for Armored Cruisers; and, for Battleships in the 1880s thru 1890s. 1900s BBs and CAs should be faster than 15 Knots and 16 Knots.

I actually really like the heavy cruisers in the early 1890's if I don't need range. I put two 8.9" turrets on them for excellent accuracy. The 8.9" get much better accuracy than any other size, for some reason. If you need range to reach Spain, for example, then yeah the heavy cruisers aren't a good option for that.

If you get the chance a channel called stealth17 has a set of guides on how to build ships in ultimate admirals he's a great dude who is a master of the game.

Мне нравится то, что в игру наконец-то добавили мониторы США