Dear Kevin, American pattern axes are just as good as HB axes and I’m counting GB as HB, because HB makes them. I have crafted 6 American pattern axes for the price of 1 HB axe. You are 100% correct the guys that pay for HB axes usually are not chopping anything. Or with any frequency and are buying into advertising. I’ll put a 3/4 axe Michigan or Boys axe. Up against them anyway. Matter of fact I take pride in crafting vintage American pattern axes for my friends that have HB’s. Anyways thanks for the content. Cut down a white oak for me, I don’t have any in central Texas like I used to back in Illinois. Cheers

I purchased a HULTS Kisa last week. I purchased it because it is a 2 pound head, which is actually perfect for all-around use. It had the mirror finish grind they are famous for. However, after using it in the actual filling of a tree, I found that all of that steel that they put right behind the cutting edge was just a tad too thick, which caused the actual bit grind the angle to be over 23 degrees. As near as I can tell from watching other videos on the competitor, which is the Scandinavian forest ax by Granfors, I was seeing the grinde is more like 18 to 19°. I took my grinder with relatively fine grit sander disc on it, and my random orbital sander, and I took off some of the shoulder material right behind the cutting edge on my Kisa. I brought it to 20 degrees, and then I went out and tried it again, and the difference was amazing! Just that few degrees of difference, and that extra steel taken off of their made all the difference in the world and now I love it twice as much as I did when it was new, just a week ago! The reason that Gransfors gets better penetration out of the box than Hults is this few degrees of angle grind. I merely copied the angle grind of Gransfors to my Kisa. It only took about 15 minutes of reworking.

Kevin... im laughing at the end regarding the comments on your videos. Its obvious that one who posts on YT must have a thick skin. Brother, I'm glad you keep rolling on! I love your content and this is EXACTLY what I was looking for to help me with a good comparison. Excellent video and thank you.

Thank you for such an in-depth review really useful !

Hi Kevin, you may not have 200,000 subscribers but you’ve got one of the best channels out there. Your vids couldn’t have come at a better time, seeing as I’m spending a lot more time in the woods and have still a lot to learn about chopping wood. So thanks! Why do you think most axe makers don’t go for a steeper angle given you’re convinced the trade-off (bite vs. stickiness) is completely worth it? I guess the same question could be asked about the handles - to make them seem more robust?

Great video. I have the GBA and the Husky axes in the video and my cutting bit on my Husky as well as a husky hatchet I have is more rounded like your HB comparison. Maybe based on who ground it. Also I love the mask from the GBA but my top rivet fell out so I’ve had to order new ones. Lastly I would LOVE a video of how you go about thinning your handles and what you focus on to have them come out that way they look amazing. I have seen all of Sklcults videos on the husky axe mods it’s one of my most used axes I have

Looking forward to the handle discussion video

One of my favorite mods to do to a thick handle is octagon it. Thins it down and they are very comfortable.

I have hults& gransfors both never had a problem with either both came razor sharp out of the box

I personally love the pull string sheathe. My HB Montreal came with one. I like it alot because if it ever breaks or comes loose, i can always replace it with new leather or paracord if it comes loose in the field.

Good comparison mate. I've had the husky for a few years now and didn't use it for at least the first two. Just didn't feel right. Head too small, bit too curved, handle too thick, something. Then after the fires here last year I wanted a small axe to take clearing fencelines. Put almost a full days work into it, reshaped the bit, thinned handle etc, now it pretty much goes everywhere. Much lighter and more nimble than my usual Tassies, and once you get trained on the narrow bit it cuts like a laser. Good job on the vid, don't worry bout the haters

You take your criticism well, you read it & try to make sense of it but at the end of the day everyone has an opinion, very few back it up with their own video's. Don't let it deter you, sometimes when your 'striking a nerve', you know you exactly where you need to be. I like your videos & watch them pretty much as soon as they are uploaded.

I like the hardness of the new HB agdors more than the regular newer HBs. Easier to file and still really good edge holding

This is some awesome insight - thank you! One quick question - where do you purchase these? Been looking around on Amazon, but that seems kinda sketchy (think GB even voids their warranty if bought there)?

Haters gonna hate. Just keep doing what your doing. I get comments all the time that the commenter has nothing to back it up with. 0 content on their channel.

Hey Kevin. Do you have any info on the Helko Werk Black Forrest axe? It does not seem to be very common here in North America. I too prefer the longer handle. I'm a canoe tripper here in Ontario Canada. I use my axe to process fire wood for cooking on extended trips. The short handle axes have always made me feel like I'm going plant them in my knees.

Cheers Mate!

I have both. I have the Husky Carpenters axe and the Gran Fors Small Forest axe. Like you, I like the Grans Fors best.

I have not used an axe regularly for years now but used to use them all the time and just ordered the Granforst bruk to use instead of just using my hatchet (Husqavarna) all the time. I agree it is better to customize the handle to fit your needs - many bushcrafters do. Axes are a bit like shoes. Certain Axes fit certain bodies better. We dont ridicule people for insoles. It makes sense to modify the handle if it is not what we want for many of the same reasons.

Hi Kevin!!😀😀 I agree with what you do with the handles. When they are as thick and fat as they are out of the box they are definitely hard on the hands. You also don't get the wip that you and I desire for chopping. If you know the proper way to swing a axe. You will not have any problems with handle breakage. If you don't thin the bit down to 18 degrees or there about. It will never chop efficiently. My favorite axes are sharpened very similar to yours. Except I'm 6' 2" so I prefer a much longer handle. In the range of 30 to 34 inches long on my 3.5 pound heads and 28 on my 2.5 pound heads. Take care my friend and happy chopping!!😀😀 Logger Al

GB uses recycled steel from Ovako and while they only state that they use "quality Swedish steel" now, HB used the same recycled steel when they produced for Hultafors. It might be that all of these axe heads are made from the exact same steel. I am the guy who got inspired to modify the handle and bevel by your Ochsenkopf vid and yeah, it really took some time to grind down the HB with my 240w belt sander using a 60 grit belt, my file also skates over the bevel. With such a big grinder and low grit it baffles me that it took so long to reprofile the head. One tip: Judging from the grinding footage you place the head on the belt at the desired angle and keep it there, I can't tell if you're already doing what I'm about to recommend after the footage ends. Alternating angles creates "steps" with "edges" inbetween. It's easier to grind down the "edges" and work your way down towards the eye. I grind knife blanks this way, starting at 45° on both sides until I have an apex and then grinding to the newly formed edges. This creates a lot of heat though and a container with water to dip the hardened steel into is recommended. I was a bit too eager at one point of the process and was greated with the bevel facing me turning slightly yellow.

My husqvarna boys axe is shaped the same as the Hults Bruk. I actually prefer the shape of your Husqvarna... more similar to the GBA for sure. Mine is about 1.5 years old, just curious when you purchased yours?

I just hate those steep convex edges too. Great video. I have the Husqvarna this size axe and it seems like a medium steel when filing but it holds a great edge. Still, I tried them all and what I wish from all 3 was a little more edge length. And I've sharpened a GFB... a total pain in the ... to sharpen with a file. It is very very hard.

I have recently purchased the Gransfors maul with the long handle about 31.5 inches. Would you ever think to thin out the handle on a maul of this size. The weight is about 7lbs and the handle is a straight design. Thank you in advance.

I’m set on the Gransfors. The power of the chop is in the head. Correcting or thinning handles for comfort and ease of use is and should be a must because we all have different heights, weights, bone structures, statures and most importantly hand sizes. Everyone’s sweet spot will differ. Gransfors seem to have it pretty good for a majority of out of the box users but for those that cut frequently and have the know how are happy for the small adjustments to make it better for “themselves”👈🏼 After all; you are the owner of your 🪓

You seem like you get a good amount of exercise in daily life compared to most people. If you want to bulk up a little, probably just some more protein in your diet would do well. I thought I ate a good amount of it until I started lifting weights and found out I was only getting about a half to three-fourths as much as I should have. Either way, you seem to be in good health. Cheers.

I like the hults bruk sheaths, they fit on a lot of different axes. I’ve had all 3 of those axes. The husky head came loose right away. Hults bruk used to do a classic line what got replaced with the gay slim line models. The prices got jacked up and the only difference I could see was the handles were slightly thinner. Can’t fault the Finnish on the hults bruk but I prefer the style of gransfors. I ended up selling all of my Swedish axes and buying the Ray Mears wilderness axe by gransfors bruks.

You’re so right. 50% more pricy and 15% more quality. It’s the same thing with knives! I love blades so i don’t care spending money for it! Nice vid as usual and continu to don’t care about haters 😂 i mean. Your handle is your handle and i love my nike’s axes hahahaha i don’t know if i’d hace pay 212$ US for my gransfors tho. That’s the price I’ve paid CAD. I’d have probably bought the husqvarna at that price. But i don’t regret a single penny

Man despite what people said. I would lovvvvee to own the scandi forest axe. Aesthetically i love how it looks. Maybe some day. Fingers crossed

Also I really think you should get a husky carpenters axe and mod. Definitely the best Swedish style axe

Do a granfors vs council tool woodcraft pack axe.

Great review. You would be more accurate on your strikes if you wore goat skin work gloves, as your hand slips while delivering the blows. You’re not the only one not wearing gloves in their reviews. You have a new Subscriber!!

which 3.5lb hults bruk felling axe do you own?

Huskies used to be made by wetterlings before they switched to hb, mine is an hb and has the same sheath as your hb, I like it, as for gb, I think they copied hb as hb are an older company, same company as hultafors now too. Swedish axes are good but definitely designed for softer wood, my Tuatahi work axe outchops them, but it’s pretty darn heavy-and expensive!

I think the HB and Gransfors actually come with the perfect grind for the Scandinavian woods. The slighty larger angle IMO is better for softwoods like spruce or pine because it wedges it apart more and doesn't stick as much, my Wetterlings hatchet and Gransfors american felling axe were like that, they both came with fat ass convex grinds with a steep drop off and they chopped good in softwoods because they threw chips but they sucked in fresh beech or oak. That's just my opinion though, but i still hate a convex with a steep drop off, it should be barely visible that it's a convex edge, it should be a long, even and gradual convex to the edge.

Bought my huqvarna multi-purpose axe for 35€, i bought it online so i couldn't choose the best one. And I got to say that the hang is pretty decent, but the edge is just terrible and just super asymmetrical, I haven't tried to fix it yet. Otherwise, it seems to be well made for the price you pay. By the way, i like the benchmade hat, im guessing you're a knife guy?

Nice guide. I know that's the official term for these axes, but I personally hate it. I guess most young men in the 1800s could swing such an axe, no problem. Nowadays, hospital visits with self-inflicted accidental injuries. Personally, I went with the Boy's Axe as made by Snow & Nealley. Very reasonably priced. Good head. (Just needs to be sharpened up immediately with an 8-inch Bastard file and a proper axe sharpening stone.) Handle could definitely be better. By comparison, the S&N mask compared to the standard-issue Husqvarna is absolute garbage! Came damaged right out of the box! Had to use a thin but stiff piece of cardboard cut to size, some industrial strength glue, and one of my best clamps to fix it. Thankfully the tear was off to one side. Trimmed the excess dried glue off two hours later. Now the mask is at least serviceable. I'll be honest, I try to buy American whenever that option is available. S&N is currently made by an Amish father and his sons. Their marketing slogan is "Our Best." Well, maybe they're being honest. But if that's their best, overall; I'm disappointed. My Condor axes and hatches are made in El Salvador and are better quality in every way, for less money. The quality of Condor's leather sheaths rivals that of Gransfors Bruks. They just new a little breaking in when new.

At least one other has mentioned it, and I'm keen not to put my foot in my mouth again (Kent felling pattern...), your Husqvarna might be an older Wetterlings made axe. They made the Husqvarna heads before HB got the contract. I have the Hults axe, specifically a Hultafors HY20 which was what they called it before they started mirror polishing the bevel and doubling the price as the Kisa. I've also bought three of the Husqvarna forest axes since that one (they're cheap here, good for learning to modify handles and heads with). The HB made Husqvarna ones are identical to their own. I'm certain they use the same dies in forging them, stamp them differently and don't put as many processes into fit and finish. The curvier ears on yours are completely different to mine, and my HB is older than yours so they've had that exact pattern for a good while. What is a bit weird is that the Wetterlings forest axes I've seen have squarer ears, so not like your axe either, but the mask you have is exactly the same as the ones I have on completely different Husqvarna axe heads.

I thought I'd give you a recommendation for saving you a bunch of time on your grinder. Give Combat Abrasives 40 grit Shredder belts a try. They are ceramic belts so you can work longer on your axes without overheating them. Plus they also cut super fast and last a long time. Personally I don't really like axes with super hard steel myself. I hate sharpening them and have broken huge chunks out of the bits just chopping oak. I like an axe that a good file will cut even if I have to sharpen more. People that go on about how great the steel is in their super hard axes is probably doesn't actually use them much. If they did they'd know that after you figure out how much time it takes to sharpen them that it actually saves time sharpening a softer steel axe more often. I'd rather roll an edge than chip one or worse yet bust a big chunk out of it. I wouldn't worry about those thin skinned haters. If they think taking a little wood off of a handle negatively effects it's performance they obviously know nothing about axes at all. And all those fanboys of those spendy axes are like people who dress up like cowboys that have never even rode a horse. They bought them because all the gear collectors claim they are the best because they read they were the best from other gear collectors that read the same thing. lol If you look at most of their axes more than likely they'll look like brand new. They'd probably end up in the ER if they tried doing a real days work with one. 😆

The scandi comes in at 215 and the kissa is 185 but I don’t like the circle edge but I also don’t wanna be sharpening my axe all the time it’s cheeper has harder steal can use for hammering has lifetime Warentee and thicker leather but every single person on the show alone uses the scandi axe :( idk what to do man anyone help ?

In my opinion you left out the testing the primary function of a camp axe, splitting.

All HB, GB and even Wetterlings axes are made exactly the same way, even the more polished ones. Open die drop forging with hand finishing. The "forging scale" is applied with a chemical application after the fact. All of them also use the same recycled 1060 equivalent steel that is often over hardened and prone to chipping and or cracking, thankfully the Husqvarna models do not seem to suffer from this and respond very well to traditional forms of axe sharpening. Many of the older HB models also are not over hardened, the older American style boys axe and the Montreal Patterns come to mind (which I own and love). If I were to choose one of these I would hands down go to my local saw shop and hand select a Husqvarna then modify it to my liking and still have cash in my pocket compared to the Swedish competition. That said, in this weight class give me a Hudson Bay every day of the week and twice on Sunday! Good comparison over all! Keep up the good work.

To be honest I don't want an axe I can't service in the field with a simple file &/or puk.

When ever i go to buy an axe i always go to you or bens channel you are one of the most realistic axe guys on the internet for telling the world how shit the grandfors small forest axe is

Good video and informative. Ultimately you mod it to fit your preferences. To sum up, I am built like a gorilla, you're like my brother who I affectionately refer to as an Orangutan. 😉 We're not gonna like the same set up. Hand size arm length....blah... blah.... Keyboard warriors make me laugh. Also, few old axes I have found and reworked the handles are all slim with a palm swell. But those are from a time when the people that owned them knew how to use them. I would say nowadays only a small percentage actually truly KNOW how . Keep doing you👍

The lack of welt is important on that shite husqvarna mask. The metal rivets will inevitably make contact with edge at some point and cause edge deformation. I just cut a thin strip of leather and fit it in there for now til I get around to making a proper mask

Grans forst is the best ?

waar gaat het om bescherming of snelheid met een axe werken is geen haast nodig om op te bergen ,

Interesting. Just -and is not a critique is just my 2 cents- don’t use a mechanical grinder in an axe. You can definitely screw the steel tempering and the whole axe. Filing and stones all the way dude. Thanks for sharing

I think hackberry is about 880 on the hardness scale

My Husqvarna came dull and blunt

I could not use my Husqvarna out of the box. Extremely disappointed

That Husqvarna axe is $100 at multiple sites.

I think your Husky is made by Wetterlings. And you are lucky with this, they are discontinued

Husqy $65 in UK (£48)

Thank you for this video :) Hum and compared to the hultafors HY 10-0,9 SV (the axe with 900 gr head), any opinion ? Erf sorry, another one, and in splitting game can they do some job ? Can they split the tree seen here ? Well a beat of answer here about splitting : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hcWDhdh62drck3U.html Thx :)

Swedish axes are the designer purses for men

Hults Bruk has been around since 1697. Gransfors Bruk has been around since 1902. So, who is copying who?

I think the guys breaking axe handles just don't know how to throw an axe. They swing at things like they're trying to hit a home run or smash through like they're using a sledgehammer. By the time my axe reaches whatever I'm swinging at I barely have 2 hands on it. I keep just enough grip on it to control it but other than that, I let the axe do the work. They forget that the point is to chop wood away, not break through the tree in one swing with their big manly muscles.

Sorry ,without % :):)

🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪

Husqvarna in LV - 36 - 38 % Euro

Ugh gransfors fanboys... basically the equivalent of katana fanboys to swords. Full of bullshit based on no experience or reliable sources. My most hated video by far, and the stupidest comments. The most common saying i shouldve bought the scandi forest axe which i mentioned multiple times in video, and which was pretty much the major point that i was making (20 is awkward, 24 far superior) and advising others to do instead. I was also just called names and various morons mocking my apearance. Good video as always, here the hults bruk agdors are 40-50ish. The agdors are softer steel and different again to the premuim versions. An axe that you cant file is basically useless eh!

You say these are hand forged, not drop forged. Every video I have seen of these being manufactured, show them using molds on a drop forge. The companies just call it, "Hand forged" because people move the blank through different dies on the drop forge.

You make yourself look dumb putting the sheath back on that Hults Bruks axe. They are not hand forged axes. No one made them using a hammer. That is a marketing lie. And they have not copied Gransfors bruks. They all have the the same steel. Gransfors temper the edge too hard, copying knife makers, for knife nuts. Again marketing. I bought my Husqvarna for £40. I can buy 3 of these for the price of the Gransfors. Infact i purchased the forest axe carpenter axe and the camp hatchet and the hatchet for the same price. You didn't get the handle straight on the Gransfors! All of these axes were made for the turpentine industry. They are not felling axes, too light for big work. You are buying a tool not a sheath. That puts the price up alot!