you don't like those zinc fumes? :D

​@@77Avadon77got milk? 😁

Great video nice project only thing I’d recommend is using a cutoff wheel and not a metal cutting blade when cutting questionable steel a cutoff wheel is what 2$ last I looked that blade was worth more than your money saving project so wouldn’t recommend risking more than all your going to save just to get out of digging out the chop saw you undoubtably still own tucked away in the back of the shop It’s bad risk management

Make the means of production my friend! Tag me on IG when you build ur table I'll repost it 👍

Wow man, thank you so much for seeing the difference! I'm always trying to make stuff that I wish I had when I was starting out. Buy once, cry once!

That's a cool idea!

Just subbed to your channel, thanks for sharing!

Seriously! I try to buy a few every month that way it's not a big thing all at once.

@@MakerTable it's just my standard gift from family. They have no idea what to buy me that isn't super expensive, but clamps are always good

@@42Fab OOOH brilliant, I'm adding it to my Xmas list this year too!

I've never had one of mine fail. Never worried about the metallurgy in this situation.

Ha ha ha! Never 😆

That stache is hilarious!

And a little pre- and post-heat wouldn't hurt anything, either.

I think they're good as long as I don't try to return the welded clamp! Happy making bro!

Hey man, whatever gets it done! Bolts will totally work but the shoulder bolts are just a little bit tighter and provide more material for strength.

Cheap solution! Buy 5/8" or 16mm solid rod from steel supplier and these clamps: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000055210893.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7e8f64c3O6lT87&algo_pvid=4dc90f87-e48f-45bd-8e1e-87c181735a45&algo_expid=4dc90f87-e48f-45bd-8e1e-87c181735a45-0&btsid=c5387e45-2189-4d1b-a8bc-e1760f5ec138&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchweb201603_53

@@drewt3210 why not the Harbor Freight 3.99 dollars clamps? It's unlikely one would need more clamping force than they can provide anyway

@@AlessioSangalli I use those too! Sometimes I want a little more oomph for heavier material. Also, these clamps have longer reach, which is their main advantage...gotta have options!

@@drewt3210 yeah!

A little slack is needed. Too tight becomes an issue.

It has to be able to kick a bit to the side, that’s how it works.

I copied Buildpro. 5/8 diameter on 2” center to center. Unless you have employees, use 5/8 thick aluminum, no weld spatter sticks to it, and therefore you don’t end up grinding the flatness out of it as the years go by. Mine is as flat as the day I made it 15 years ago. If you have employees you may not want to use aluminum. They will beat the hell out of it because it’s not theirs. You do not need to buy the fancy bolts to weld to the ends. Just buy some 5/8 cold rolled 1018 rod that is a sliding fit through your holes (may have to buy a hand expansion reamer to enlarge the holes. Depends on runout of your drill) and cut it off at 90 degrees (faced on a lathe would be better) and weld that end to the SQUARELY CUT clamp end. The clamps even work if they end up not being perpendicular to the table, but they look like a kid made them if they are not. Make a small sample first. The table material needs to be thick enough for the 5/8 rod end to bind sideways in the hole when the clamp screw puts pressure on the workpiece. Too thin and it will just lift itself out of the hole. I used 5/8” thick. THE REAL IMPORTANT PART is the 2 inch center to center distance on the hole layout. The more accurate you do this the closer weldments will be to square, because (this guy doesn’t show them) but you can make/ buy all sorts of stops that also fit the table. Look at the Buildpro website. Hope this helps.

Thank you for all the info. Yes it does help and I will take your advice with building my table. Thanks again

Robert Patterson A person takes a gamble when you try and respond to a question on KZfaq because most of the time you spend the time to help and you never even get a response. Thank you. And since you did I’ll give you some more info on my table. When I built mine Buildpro offered an aluminum table, but has since discontinued it for reasons unknown (most likely the price) My table is built of 6 inch wide bar stock placed against one another. Buildpro called this their Max table at the time. I wrote a program that included drilling and reaming each tool hole as well as drilling and counterboring each mounting hole. I then welded a mounting framework of structural steel tubing (1x2)and welded drilled and tapped (1/2-13 ) one inch square x 3 1/2” long mounting “bars” on the tube steel frame to align with the drilled and counterbored bolt holes in the aluminum plates. As you can imagine all of this welding on one side of the frame caused it to warp so it was back to the mill to mill the bar tops flat with each other. What I ended up with was a copy of a multi thousand dollar Buildpro table. The reason I went to all this trouble is that it allows me to unbolt some plates and move them out of alignment with the others so that I can have a fixture table that has a dogleg in it when needed and a plate can be replaced in the event of damage. You do not need to go this in-depth if you just want a simple square or rectangular table with no adjustability. You can just use a large single piece. If you use steel you can spray the area you intend to weld in with Pam cooking spray to help ward off spatter. Menards now even sells a small fixture table under their Masterforce store brand, but I did not stop to look at details, and I do not know if they ship if you do not live close by a store. If you make something once again remember, the more accurate you make the hole spacing the more accurate all the welded framework you for ever more make on it will be. And number 2, make sure the top is thick enough that the clamps under pressure bind in the holes and don’t just self eject, and the top itself is less likely to warp. Another option is to find a cast iron gang drill table or large milling machine table with t slots in it and make your fixturing hardware to suit that. Surplus stores and etc. might have these or possibly junk yards (if they will let you look around any more). Weld spatter will not stick to cast iron either. What ever you end up with will be way better than a bunch of c clamps and f clamps floating around in space. Good luck

That sounds good. Thank you

I just checked their website and can't find them for $20 with the 5/8" stud on them. Can you post a link?

Type in “welding table clamp”. The one I mentioned has been removed. I had it in my cart and showed this item no longer available. It was a 6”. The next available start off at $29.99 and they are 8” . Still not too bad.

@@thisdj83 I just went and saw the same. Not a bad price. Wish I could find that little clip that slips on the end and fastens with a set screw to convert any clamp to insertable.

eBay has them

@@SniperS0007 thanks man

@@littleslawncareandfirewood No problem. Bought some recently myself. There’s a seller on there that accepts reasonable offers. And remember, they can be a little longer for the right price, you will cut the threads and whatever you don’t think you need off the bottom anyways 😊👌 Glad to help

@@SniperS0007 ya man I got 1 1/4 long they work pretty good in my certaflat table.

@@littleslawncareandfirewood perfect! I think I bought inch and a half. I have to build my table first, but I planned to cut them down anyways. Got a steal of a deal