long story short the transmission tears down from the rear to the front. Before putting everything back together, you have to measure and adjust shims for wear; plus all the disturbed seals must be replaced. Could you reuse everything a "cheat death"? Sure... Any shop that does this is risking a "comback" because there is a fluid leak or transmission noise. Do it right or fix it twice.

Gotta get paid $$

Same thing with some water pump pulleys. You don't just replace the pulley. A lot of times, you replace the pump as well because if it makes noise or has play, you don't know if it's an unevenly worn pulley or a bad water pump. So you recommend a water pump and pulley replacement. For what purpose? So you don't fix it twice. (Plus, a lot of times, it's always a bad water pump. If it's old and rusty, good luck finding out which one it is)

​@@baja-automotive I don't know how many times I've said it but damn I hate when we know the answer just don't want to know the answer haha. Gawd all mighty I have a leak and I have no idea what's up so I'll follow this it's in a 00 civic 200k miles 😢

WTF???? Rebuild the transmission???? Keep the oil leak. ha ha ha ha

Shooting a little high there New tranny is $8000 Teardown and rebuild starts at $2500 and never had one go above $4000

Car is junk sell it to me for $1,000 and I'll do it myself lol...

​@@baja-automotivehe is mocking you

13.700 on a 6500 vehicle if that

THATS WHY THEY WILL ALL GO OUT OF BUSINESSS IN 10 YEARS

Dodgy as fuck

Mights as well get a new fucking car😂

Yea like wind turbulence doesn't exist.

You are what I call “an informed customer”. The majority of customer that visit garages for repairs do not want a detailed explanation or cannot comprehend any explanation; because they compare every repair quote to something 40 years old. For grins and giggles the labor rate goes as follows. 1 hr diag to clean the area, dye the fluid, drive the vehicle, and reinspect. If the problem is what I claim it is (front case seal) 6 hrs labor transmission R&R 4 hr labor transmission teardown All disturbed brings and seals must be replaced, that’s my rule. All shims and torsion bearings, re-measured and replaced. Due to mileage (100k) I would insist on new pulleys and chain. When you’re in the business of tearing down and rebuilding engines and transmissions; you’ll learn it’s not a good idea to negotiate with customers about procedure and mandatory part replacement; as it will compromise you warranty and shop reputation. I would rather have a customer be upset for quoting too high and leaving, then return with a new problem because I let them talk me into doing a half ass job.

​​@@baja-automotiveI like a shop that shoots it straight and tells you what you really need, and then make recommendations for what else would be a great time to do a few extra things that will be expensive to get to if it goes out but if we do it while we are in there it's probably worth the peace of mind having it done. Maybe mention upgrades that could be beneficial for certain people that look like they do heavy pulling with their vehicles.

@@baja-automotivelove the breakdown. This is a channel I’ll follow

​@@baja-automotiveYou are what I call a ethical, experienced and knowledgeable technician. Ppl always want the cheap n easy way out but your reputation, time and possibly $ are what's at stake. You're warrantieng your work and an incomplete/partial rebuild opens you up to doing the job twice for 1 fee and the bad word of mouth that will inevitably start from problems from skimping

Yea this gym is stupid 😂

Liquid gasket Yes you tear down this transmission from the tail housing tit he front. Anything along the way out of spec needs to be replaced It’s easier to quote a rebuilt and hand the customer back some money then keep asking for money as you repair the transmission

@@baja-automotiveno it’s just sounds like u tryna get paid

​@@theonlysolo3783 do you have a job? 😂

​@@baja-automotivetransmission pan gasket takes less than 30min to do... you cant figure out where its coming from so your just doing everything

thank you for your perspective

@@baja-automotivethat’s a the right answer to a bafoon comment

Thank you for commenting. There are a lot ways to chase oil leaks, this is one that works well for quick. The leak I pointed out is a common problem for this transmission when it bottoms out a lot.

With this type of transmission, to replace that gasket you literally have to tear down the entire CVT from back to front. And if you're pulling it apart, all gaskets have to be replaced, all shims should be inspected and replaced if out of spec. If not, one of the gaskets you reused is likely to leak and customer will be back, and you'll be working for free. Or worse, you leave a shim in there that's out of spec, everything's fine for 20,000 mi, then when their transmission goes out they blame you since you were the last one to crack it open and put it back together still out of spec.

Not a pan reseal, a front case reseal. Pulling the trans a splitting the case.

If it was a CVT oil pan reseal it would be that simple. Per the video diagnosis I determined the front case half was leaking at the gasket. This requires CVT removal and teardown.

@@baja-automotive CVT's are horrible.

So how the oil travel up to the axle? 😂😂😂😂😂😂

Fix the Oil Leak is priority & a New Gasket & Oil Filter will certainly Stop That Oil Flow. Great Resolutions, that wouldnt be discussed....if he hadnt uploaded video. Cheers! 😃👍💯🎯

I would use die if I didn't know the location of the leak. In this video I found the leak and diag'd the leaking gasket

Rebuilding the whole trans sounds like covering your ass since you don't really know lmao

@@baja-automotive They dye suggestion was for the customer's peace of mind. We've all had "unnecessary" work done because we didn't know better or fully understand.

I guess everyone has their own way… I would rather be 100 percent sure and add dye and if any power train fluid were low to top them off

You mean unnecessary work like you need we need to rebuild the transmission because you have a leaky gasket...

I guess work here I’ve been dishing oil leaks for years take the advice

​@@baja-automotive guess work? That's clown behavior.

You should look up the labor rate and parts required, before throwing insults around

@@baja-automotive don't need to because I properly diagnose vehicles and pin point the problem and sell them the correct part at half the cost of a dealership and do the labor for 1/2 the cost as well no over head here to speak of sir that's why I said what I said sir

​@@RC-Homesteaderswell yeah that's the difference between a broke independent mechanic and a shop. No offense, I thought I was making a killing doing mobile mechanic work cheaper than most shops charge in house. But when you buy parts off RockAuto, sometimes you get a bad part, then you're working for free replacing something. The reason shops charge extra is because there's the implied labor warranty. If you get a bad water pump at a shop, they swap it out at no cost to you. The shop eats the loss. We also have to pay for insurance, labor costs for other workers, holding multiple vehicles on the property costs money, vendors have additional fees for deliveries and stuff, Plus we have to recoup our investment on lifts and building rent for the shop, etc. if you have your own shop one day you'll realize that charging what people used to is how you end up one of those shops in the bad part of town dealing with cars that have been driving on blown head gaskets for 4 years, working 80 hours a week and barely making enough to pay your bills.

Due to the costly repair customer declined repair and would rather keep topping off the front diff.

​@@baja-automotiveas you probably would do too, 😆

@@ehcelikok2267 I try not to be that reckless This was a nasty leak that was only going to get worse.

​@@baja-automotivewouldn't be long till that cvt start crapping out

Active leaks do not accumulate grime. The flow of a leak keeps anything from sticking. Also this is a vehicle that has air flowing underneath it. A low leak can and will throw fluid everywhere. Vehicles have areas that when air flows by it causes a turbulence. A leak there will mist It everywhere.

It’ll find a way around the JB weld, I’ve seen all the hacks to make it stop. I just wish I didn’t have to teardown the whole case to get to one spot

Why, use your words Trust me it helps

No this is not a comeback. This is a common fault for the Subaru CVT when the bottoms get smacked. This customer admitted to driving over speed bumps too fast. I Found multiple marks under the car where he bottomed out; along with blown struts, ball joints, and sway bar links.

Thanks for the comment

Great question There is no pre cut gasket, everything is liquid gasket. The transmission comes out To reseal the leak in the front the who transmission has to disassemble from tail housing to front. Thank you engineers There’s a lot of shims and one time use parts along the way. Once parts and labor is totaled it’s more cost effective to sell a remanufactured transmission with 2 yr warranty

Maybe you should research how to reseal the main case to front differential, then get back to me. And leave me out of your clown comments about swindling money out of people.

@@baja-automotive nope. And mechanics DO make every effort to swindle money and you are no different unless make a statement upholding GOD that you have never even thought about it. I'll wait.

What’s the difference between guessing and deductive reasoning?

​@@baja-automotiveevidence 🤷

“Let me know if there’s a better way”, Everyone in the comments clearly doesn’t like the effort he put into finding the leak. He refuses to acknowledge his “deductive reasoning” is actually laziness. The truth is he’ll sleep just fine overcharging you for work he doesn’t know will fix the issue, because at the end of the day he still knows his “unbelievable trick” of how f#%#ing gravity works.

The front pump chain cover is a problem on the Subaru CVT, no argument. I did use a bore scope to look behind the torque converter and found not signs of fluid leaking out. The main case to front differential is a major leak problem for subaru CVT. Customers hit speed bumps too hard and too fast. It only takes a light tap to break the seal and start a leak. Easiest way to determine a transmission oil leak vs a front differential leak is to drain the diff and measure the fluid.

Interesting. I am a Subaru tech my self and will keep that in mind. Have been doing a lot of front pump re-seals lately

Your correct there is a TSB for the front chain cover reseal, behind the torque converter. The leak I diag'd was the front case half gasket. This requires CVT removal and teardown.

That is a strategy too

that is a great suggestion

Gravity does make a lot of things "go down" I will not disagree with that fact. Once you understand how leaks are "generated" and "produced", you'll realize there are other outside factors that should be considered. Here are some examples. I've seen axle seals only leak when the vehicle is moving, not stationary. The axle seal has grooves that help push the fluid back into the transmission/differential case. A rear differential backing plate was re-sealed only to leak again the next month; technician re-sealed it again with a new plate (suspecting it was deformed). And it leaked again. The breather tubes were clogged from off roading. Oil is leaking from the engine and a leaking head gasket is suspected. The oil is scrubbed and washed off and the customer returns two weeks later. The oil is in the same spot so the head gasket was replaced. Customer returns a month later complaining of the same oil leak. There was an oil leak from the upper oil pan and wind turbulence, from driving on the highway, pushed the oil upwards because the engine bay was a low pressure zone; compared to the air under the vehicle (again while driving at highway speeds). Once I picked up on these "signs" I stopped using dye.

@@baja-automotiveSo your method would have also misdiagnosed all those leaks. Dye isn’t 100% and your method isn’t either you need to use both and experience depending on the situation.

Please do not compare a 20 year old 4EAT transmission to a late model CVT. Your analogy is very incorrect and misleading. Please reference the teardown of a TR680 to reseal the front case to the front differential.

That’s like saying a 6.7 powerstroke should be as cheap to maintain as a 7.3 just because it’s also a Ford

Omg dude bad radiator cap means replace the cap. not the engine

sad truth about CVTs. You can take the tail housing off without regret but go any farther and you risk rebuild taratory

It would I reviewed the customer's history by name and VIN, I also pulled the CarFax to see if another facility performed any services.

Look up the instructions for a tr580 Reseal main case to front differential. It’s at least a 10 hour job

How about if you only advice your customer by saying hey listen we're going to replace your $45 gasket to fix the leak, we're going to try this first before rebuilding the entire transmission is worth the try before paying $5,000 unless the vehicle was under warranty and the gaskets failed premature

great question. The leak is coming from the front case half of the transmission. I need to pull the transmission out of the car, removed the tail housing and the transfer diver gears, remove the main body case, to get to the gasket that needs to be replaced. During the tear down the technician "MUST" itemize all components and inspect for wear and tear. "Professional" transmission repair shops will not put a transmission back together with used/warn items as it will cause potential problem the customer would hold them liable for. If someone wants to put a CVT back together with used/warn items and warranty their work please replay. I will send all those customers to your shop. So to make long explanation short, CVT transmissions have a lot of sensitive parts that can cause problems once disturbed.

To get that far into the case to fix the leak, it would be more cost effective to sell a rebuild. The transmission does. It come apart the way it appears visually

Serious. Resealing the case is at least a 10 hour job. Look up has to teardown a TR680

You don’t replace axle seals with during a rebuilt. I replace the axle seal every time I pull the axle

Why

A much better way of doing this is not to buy any car

@@gq-cw6xi I sleep on a bed sometimes with a pillow

Thank you for your comment, this channel is not about best guesses it it about accuracy. I was paid to locate and identify the source of the leak. Drain the front diff was the right decision, if I was wrong , all I would have to do is put the fluid back in and focus on the CVT fluid.

I’m bad about gloves in the summer. We finally installed AC So now my gloves will not fill up with sweat within 10 seconds.

Ok

Read the tear down procedure for removing the main case. The CVT comes apart from the ass forward. Customer bottomed out hard

Google American stupid measuring system to metric awesome system for answers

@@baja-automotive it is just disturbing a little, that you use metric and imperial systems in same sentence. And I will not google what the hell is quart, some stone-aged measuring systems

​@@elcapitan6605metric and imperial are the same thing!

​@@baja-automotiveyou are very interactive with your viewers! Don't let out uneducated snide comments hold you back!

the entire case has to be torn down to get to that gasket. Along the way all the ships and bearings are disturbed. No shop would guarantee the repair without measuring and replacing necessary components; which is $500 away from a rebuild with better warranty.

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's always great to have viewers like you who help contribute to the community. Keep up the good work and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any more questions!

thanks for the comment. In some situations brake parts cleaner and a test drive would be the solutions. When determining if the leak is coming from one of two systems/components that use different fluid; it's important to make an accurate calls. deductive reasoning is the fastest solution here. Within 30 seconds I can drain and measure the front differential fluid. Differentials are simple to drain on the TR580 and TR690 CVT transmissions or an Subaru transmission now that I think about it. The differential will not retain a whole lot of fluid like a transmission or engine would. In the video I collected 3/4 quart front fluid and the front differential can hold 1/5 quarts. I'll call that an easy win, no I can tell the customer where the leak is coming from and how much fluid was lost, and how their $8,000 transmission is compromised. Customer declined repair and paid for fluid to top off the transmission. He took the transmission to another dealership for a second opinion. Technician did not diagnose the leak and just referenced a TSB for the front chain pump. If that technician had half a mind and a borescope they could've confirmed that it was not the chain cover. Secondly the technician could've used the other half their brain and looked at the leak. In my video I did not show the bell housing area for fluid leak because there was no fluid leaking from the bell housing. Customer was sold a bogus 8hr job to reseal the front chain pump cover behind the torque converter and the customer bought the job. Cost the customer $1,200 in parts and labor. Customer writes a bad review about my diagnosis, my comments was "please return ASAP so I can explain how you were ripped off". Customer returns and I show them the leak is still there and the previous shop did nothing to diag the concern correctly. Customer paid to have me fix the concern the next day. The negative review was removed and the transmission no longer leaks

Ok

Ok

Thanks for the comment. That is a strategy but not the focus of this KZfaq short. The focus was to determine what part of a two fluid system was leaking. The diff is easily serviced and accessible. Additionally the leak may not start seeping for another day of driving. An accurate diagnosis on the spot is a good sell and a good way to secure your 1hr diag

@@baja-automotive yes that’s how you determine the leak you clown run the car are freeway speed on the lift and watch where the fluid comes from so you know what is leaking

@@Dilloz12he just said it himself. It’s an easy way to secure the sell and get himself the 1hr diag smh. He wants to rebuild it regardless