I have that same cam bearing tool. If I'm not mistaken you can put the expander on the longer handle and leave the shorter handle in the box. It's a little easier to work with that way. I think the shorter handle was made as an extension for L6 engines where you need to reach deeper into the block. Also, when I do cam bearings, I set the block on the floor, standing straight up. That way you can swing straight down and use gravity to your advantage.

Enginetech bearings are produced for them by King Bearings in Israel. Summit's house brand bearings are the same thing. Enginetech piston rings are Hastings and the gaskets are Victor Reinz. All of that stuff is actually very high quality.

Great line " Who's got time to read it". Says everyone who has time to do it twice.... As always, a great video Tony !

I have that same cam bearing install tool set, I've used it about 3 times now. Works every time like a charm, no complaints here. I was in same boat seeing about $150-400 and decided to just go with a throwaway cam bearing install unit.

I made a cam bearing removal/ installation tool back in about 1982. one piece of billet steel turned down on a lathe. set it up like a slide hammer. worked perfect! thanks Tony.

I love the engine blocks laying everywhere like cadavers in Dr Frankensteins lab waiting to be re-animated. Lol

Hey Tony, You can take the lock ring and stuff off of the short shaft and put it on the long shaft so you don't have to use both shafts according to the instruction video. This way you don't have to use both shafts and have to be so far away from the bearing when hammering them into the block. Hope this helps you to make the installation easier. Later

Thanks Tony for helping the backyard mechanics 👍

Made at the factory across the street from the plastic glasses, nose and mustache factory, next door to the rubber dog shit and whoopee cushion assembly plant...

Had a similar experience at a chain parts store . Was finally the time to replace the factory starter installed in nov 95 in my work truck . wanted the basic rebuilt since i had 2 other used up starters that i had been using to replace wear parts . I found the bargain rebuilt in stock and went to pick it up . The kid behind the counter is telling me i want the "Gold" version as the cheapo is nothing but trouble - I told him i used to work the counter back in the day of Real Auto parts and just bring both out so we can compare to see if it's really worth twice the price . Both the fancy box and the white box had the same new Chinese starter inside .

the expander will unscrew from the short shaft and attach to the longer one making it about a foot shorter

My Front Wheel Drive bearing service kit is from the same company (OMT/Orion Motor Tech). I've put it through a shocking amount of abuse and it's been fine for a guy at home doing this and that once in awhile. I can't even find a US made version to compare it to, but I probably couldn't afford it if I could. Snap-On's master puller kit doesn't come with bearing adapters and it's $4300...

This video is why it's great for someone like me to watch Tony charge right ahead to get things done. My Dad was like that. But, since he was USAF trained P-80 mechanic, he never winged it. No pun intended. Aviation is incredibly unforgiving. He got things done. As a kid, I watched him build a 1929 Model from junk with 1940 Ford hydraulic brakes and wheels. Initially with poured Babbitt bearings that I watched him fo with his friend and B-52 Navigator. All done while he was an Aircraft Commander and flew 10-engine B-36s (6x 28 cylinder R-4360 ci radial piston 3800 HP engines plus 4 J-57 turbojets). That he always said he was glad he didn't have to maintain. Then 8-J-57 turbojet engined B-52s. Look up "6 Turning and 4 Burning" on KZfaq if you've never seen it. Amazing. Less than 10 minute video. I've never installed cam bearings. It's not that I'm afraid...No..it is because I'm afraid I'll Eff it up. I'll read voluminous amounts of information which is always conflicting. Use this lube or this grease. By god, don't use this oil or grease. Same with videos. After all that I'll be totally confused but I'll have learned how the cam bearings were installed differently in an American built Packard Merlin V-12 vs a Rolls-Royce British built Merlin V-12 V-1649 ci aircraft engine during WWII. www.jrcengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Packard-Merlin.pdf And I'll still not be certain as to how to install the cam bearings in my engine. It a tragic synergism between OCD and, very easily distracted ADD. I become like Tony who has incredible amounts of of knowledge AND experience. Except I never finish anything. C'est la Vie.

I was hoping you were going to No Name Nationals.

I find most of the inexpensive tools I've bought on Amazon have done pretty well. When we aren't using them 2 or 3 times every day for years, these inexpensive versions are fine, usually.

Love this style of video Tony, I’m planning on opening a shop in the near future and love seeing reviews of these type of low budget entry tools! So many other content creators try and make the videos into entertainment or are just paid off by the company to falsify a review. Keep it up!

As usual this is a very instructive video. And Uncle indirectly points out the problem that faces most of us: buying cheap Chinese/Taiwanese tools that work adequately well instead of better quality American tools. I have a 1997 Lisle cam bearing tool that was made in America. I bought it from a local auto store in a small town knowing that I wouldn't get the lowest price possible. Adjusted for inflation, it would now cost $316--a whale of a difference from $64, needless to say. So I get it. But if we always insist on the cheapest price no matter what, we will often (not always, as Uncle showed with the above useful cheapo tool) get inferior garbage tools and parts and then wonder why. Somewhere along the line we either support better parts by being willing to pay for them, or stop whining about trash that we inflicted on ourselves.

thanx again uncle Tony,watched your video and then installed new cam bearings in a ford 300 six. my stand kept wanting to roll so i wedged it against a work bench.and the extension is handy for the 6 bangers for sure.the cheapy tool worked ok as long as you line up the oil holes it will be golden.

I've used a few different brands and costs, can't say I was happy with any of them for all engines. The one I hated doing the most was a pinto 2300. There was one or two bearing that were almost impossible to install. You did alright with the cheap tool, with the exception of the handle.

I bought the same tool, came from Germany, works okay. My two previous sets of cam bearings were made in Colombia. This tool comes in few different flavours (depends of where you buy it) 👍

Hello UT. I just got my cam tool from summit today. Using it on a 302 ford. Just watched your video and it made it easy to get the bearings out. Tomorrow putting them in. Thanks for the info on the video.

Like you Tony I normally have a machine shop install cam bearings. I’ve done a few home throw an engine together because you need that vehicle to run. I’ve installed cam bearings on those engines. I used a Snap On set. It wasn’t overly hard or complicated. You just got to make sure to mark the oil holes on the block to get everything lined up. Yes I’d buy that tool if knew I had to do cam bearings on a couple quicky home rebuild jobs.

Fiddling around dropping stuff running to the toolbox for a wrench … just like real life and keeping it real. Awesome!

I bought a cheap amazon kit like that for winding in the screw in calipers for my familys car...was like 30 40 bucks MAX, Canadian, has all the adaptors ect you need from VW to Hyundai ect. Only time it ''broke'' was when i put a wrench on the pre supplied handle. Caliper was seized. Not product fault just a user error. I still use it too. Handle just bend and i said oh well. One job and its paid off already.

I just bought an received the same tool. I didn't wanna spend the extra money on something imma use once maybe twice. Good to know that it'll get the job done. Appreciate you doing this review 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼

"Who's got time to read?" LOL

I got the same one. Summit racing for like $70. Worked good, no complains.

"Oh hammer where are you?" If I'm where I should be, I'm in the Tool Box in the drawer with the rest of the hammers.

I have the same one used it for my flathead worked great

Thanks Tony. I never saw anybody do that before.

I bought one almost exactly like this from the jungle website, as a feller calls it. I don't remember the brand name but it looks pretty much like this one. I used it on my 6.4l BGE and it worked flawlessly. I love it and will be using it regularly. Even if I have to replace it 2 times it still costs less than the one on JEGS or other parts dealers. Thanks Uncle Tony, you saved me a bunch of money. I love your channel, it would be super cool for me if you took a look at my channel. Keep teaching and I'll keep learning from you.

Just picked up the same tool off Market Place and expected cheap. Turned out not bad at all, used it to knock out SBC Cam Bearings with ease. Used a dead blow hammer, just to see if it would work, and to my surprise it worked like a champ. Yes you can leave the short extension in the box until needed for the longer blocks. The one problem I see with it is that the hammer end does not transfer to the short bar. We will make one to use on the short bar. Going to try on a couple race engines and see how long it lasts.

I own that tool and it has served me well over the years.

Put the expansion end on the long push rod, forget about the short extention

Lisle is still made in the USA just got another one since my 30 year old never returned for whom ever lol

Thanks boss for the time and effort you put into this for us

I have a lisle I love it when it comes to engine building I am a firm believer quality tools help give quality work

I only go hand tight on the expander. If you wrench the bearing tight it'll ever so slightly expand the bearing and makes it harder to hammer in. I also have an end piece I made to thread onto the short portion I can hammer against and use that for the final bearing if I am doing it with it on the stand. Lastly I shine a light in the bore and look down the oil passage to see how well it's lined up.

I've always used a set of nuts and washers on a long piece of 1" all thread and a wrench so I could slowly press them in, rather than hammer them in. In the future I aim to use my new 250 ton press which has been expressly designed so I can press anything up to 36" deep [which includes most non-commercial engine blocks and some commercial ones]

Truth be told, I’ve had the Lisle since the 90s before we had Amazon, and the manufacturer wasn’t selling the same thing on eBay yet. I was working for Valley Head in Northridge CA (A few blocks from Landy one direction and Lambeck in the other at the time and everyone out here had the Durabond Remover/Installer. I used the Lisle way more often for installation especially on small Chryslers. As you probably know the Durabond expanders all have super sharp edges and it’s super easy to scar up the cam bores on a 273-360. The Brown bands on the Lisle and you have zero issues. I spun up a shorty handle for mine about 6 or 7 inches long in case you have to do a front cam bearing in the chassis.

You always gotta check the bearing number against the key in the box or the bearing book. They aren’t always in order

True tool testing that is finest, love the stuff

Every Ls owner needs a cam bearing install kit. Ls engines chew cam bearings.

It's like a 1 time use unless you can make replacement sleeves. It worked for me, but I had 2 rubber peices on and they get shredded but it was the only way to get the results I needed. It did work great though.

Good demo UT. I had to laugh when you got the bigger hammer. I used to work with a guy who always told me “ don’t force it get a bigger hammer “

Thank you tony gust ordered on I’ll give it a try on my la 360 going together soon

Every time I buy any of these cheap tools, (of which it seems I buy many as of late) I take the tool, or set, completely apart, and deburr, polish, lubricate, or anything else I see needs to be done. Then I put it back together, clean, and well preserved, or use it to do the job. A lot of these tools aren't too bad, they really just need to be finished. Of course the metals, and the materials are usually of lesser quality than a higher priced tool, but in the hands of an experienced mechanic, they'll work fine. Often, surprisingly good!

I just wanted to say I really like your channel!

Glad to see Cathy back behind the camera!

I was looking at the pics on amazon, looks the expandable tip will screw into either stick so looks like you can use it with just the long stick, the short stick or both for super long like Tony had his

Was hoping to see the money shot inside the block u.t. your hammer technique has some production value,i guess. I'll wait for part 2.Cheers.

Few months back picked up a durabond ct-1 install set. Guy was done building and getting rid of his tools ended up with it and 2 sunnen p190 guide hone sets and various mandrels.. Bought all for $350. I consider the cam bearing tools a freebie.

I had a snap on can bearing installer. Never used sold it on ebay. I bet you can get a high quality used one for the same price as a cheap one!

Great ! You usual helpful real world stuff 👍

Good job! I ran into that a few years ago with cam bearings installed blocking part of the oil galley. That looks like the same tool I rented from the parts store. Get a bigger hammer 🤣I knew that one was coming. Now it is time to see how that cam fits/rotates. I has to do some slight honing on #1 cam bearing - 1st and last time (hopefully) I have to install cam bearings.

Great job Tony! 🤩🤩

In keeping with your new policy of verifying all dimensions first, should you try each bearing on a camshaft first, or measure them to reassure yourself that they are what they claim to be. Another thing, I saw this done on Nick’s Garage, and I thought it was smart, he test fits the cam for rotation smoothness after each individual bearing is installed, so you know where to look for the bad actor if the cam suddenly gets tight.

Good info. Thanks Unk.

I have a Blue Point set thats identical to that one, I have used it for about 40 years with no problems.

Just get my local machine shop to turn up individual one piece installers as I need them, no expanders etc, all solid steel correctly sized, yep a lot of them only ever get used once. Too easy.

Cam bearing install tools are for fancy boys. A good assortment of 1/2" drive sockets and a couple feet of extensions and you're golden.

I just used this unit to do my first cam bearing removal and install on a 351C block. It works fine for you to drive the cam bearings out with the cone positioned at the front for the rear 3 and at the back for the front 2. I found out the hard way by damaging 2 cam bearings beyond reuse that this block could only have bearings fitted pushing in from the front because is has a chamfer to the tunnel hole where the rear of the hole doesn't. Fitting the rear 3 from the front. You have to have the correct size arbor and rubber sleeve firmly tightened. The bearings with a film of oil in the tunnel and the back of bearing went it beautifully with not a mark on them. I started to think this would be a breeze. I test fitted the cam in the rear 3. Spun beautifully. Okay this is where the trouble began with this tool. I thought I would knock the front 2 in with the centering cone at the rear. Even with the chamfer on the leading edge of the bearing it wasn't happy going in and the mandrel bruised the back edge up in some places. After I knocked it through I noticed the block machining difference. Fortunately I had another set of bearings to have a new no2. It has to go in from the front. You can't easily remove the steel cap to put on the shorter extension so you have to use the longer one only which does put your eyes further away from where you want to watch. You don't want the m/caps on so you can see the hole in the cam bearing center. No 2 went in beautifully. (BTW you need a heavy weight hammer). Now the tool is not reversible where you can cone center from the rear and drive the front bearing in from the front. I tried from the rear and it cocked and I ruined another bearing. To ensure you're driving in true you really need to use the center cone but how do you do the front bearing??Unless you have another Cleveland block to put in front. The tool has a short coming- is the problem. Because the job took way longer than I anticipated and needing to get it done I took a careful punt and eyeballed the extension on the two planes. Fortunately it went in nicely and I got it square .030"from the thrust plate face. Tested the cam and it spun freely! The rubber on the inner expander had already started to split. That will be a problem because it holds the colletts together. I'm sending it back because it's not a long term tool you can be confident in doing any block. I hope this helps someone. Regards Scott

Another really cool video UT.😎👍

I have the same one and a lisle kit that I could not find at time too ! Both work great for me . Keith

I have and use one. Make sure the expander piece is aligned with the bearing mandrel or it will break. I also use the long driver with the shorter one as an extension. About the only place I have used both pieces is on a inline six Cummins truck engine..I had a machine shop make me a mandrel for the 855 Cummins engine that works much better than the expandable one in the kit

Wow, yours came with instructions. Lucky

I remember my boss buying one from Snap On in the 80's. It cost in excess of 200 dollars. There wasn't much difference from that. I always consider the cost versus the amount of use. If I might use it once, against a tool that I might use in multiple uses, ( I live on a farm) , I might buy an adequate tool at a cheaper price.

East Coast who gi Bob tool $65 cam shaft bearing universal tool got the job done UTG successful.

Still use my dads cam bearing installer that he machined in high-school!

I usually install them with 3-5 hits. Hand sledge works nice for me. The machine shop I worked for told me the less amount of hits the better. Not sure if thats true but I imagine he would know. I used a cheap one worked fine also. My engine broke in 500 miles no cam issues so does it matter maybe, maybe not

I've got some Orion ball joint tie rod separater tools. Pretty decent stuff

A piece of metal with a couple holes and bolts (maybe some spacers between the metal and the block as well) to secure the cone to the block would help a lot so one wouldn't have to worry about the cone moving, etc.

I've installed many cam bearings with the $60 set! I have mine set up to use the short bar for the front two bearings and the long bar for the others. It's too long with both and not needed to reach the rear bearing, for V8's of course.

Please do more stuff like this. I quit my engine machining job for better pastures and am finding it very difficult to decide which tools to buy for my home shop. Example: I’m looking at spending 200 for a nice rod clamping vise from Goodson vs a $70 one on Amazon.

Great information !!!

Tony have you ever used the OTC cam tool that pull's the bearings in place....😎 ,,And yes alignment and trying to be as clean and precise create an oil pressure difference.... completely changing the life of an engine , chamfering also the oil hole and edge's...

I have a Orion motor tech fuel pressure tester kit, and it's cheap made but honestly take the cheaper o rings that comes in the set off and find a set of decent ones in the assorted sizes you need and it's a ok set,I'd still trust my actron fuel pressure tester kit first but it doesn't have the assorted attachments or a way to add Them lol.

My eyes aren't so good anymore, so I mark the oil hole on the outside of the bearing with a Sharpie, and leave the main caps off to get a better view of the oil passage alignment. You got a nice tool for the money, we had a Goodson, and that cost 450 in '83

This is a great tool! The only thing I would do is keep it lightly oiled or otherwise some type of corrosion protection.

We Mainers Absolutely Love Uncle Tony & Uncle Kathy❤️❤️ PS.. We also Love Mopar Al... DD Speed Shop... Puddins Fab Shop'... SleeperDude... VGG..etc. etc. etc. All the Greats!!! 👋🤠👍

Sine years ago I had to make a bearing driver like that for my BMW motorcycle. Difference is that I had some metal stock and a good lathe, it looked practically identical to what you had, the difference is the cone was changed to a flanged stock so it stayed in without issue. But it was a one application only tool, if it was not a BMW R bike engine ist was just scrap metal, and yes it got borrowed several decades ago and never got it back. Guy that had it died and it got sold at the estate sale, probably went for pennies.

The way to really see if it's same product, is look for blemishes in close up pics of both. If it comes from same mould, they'll be there.

I’ve always let the machine shop do that for me. Good on ya mate

Thank You for sharing this video

Would you do a video on how to properly correct misaligned cam bearings?

This is the same one I have. Very happy with it

I’ve got a cheap dial bore gauge and while it turned out to be in metric despite the name on Amazon (annoying but okay), it’s very similar to the Fowler which is one of the name brands for the dial bore gauges. If it was in standard it would be even better but it’s not that bad still. However, I’d pay the $110 and go with the similar Fowler because it’s also more precise (smaller measurements, not even just saying it’s less faulty).

Absolutely, most tools are manufactured at the same foundry.

You don't know it "did the job" until you put a camshaft in and it actually rotates. A poor tool can distort the bearing.

found the same kind of deal on Torque wrench. Cheap store brand vs name brand. Both were fricken Junk. Bought the cheap one- broke it on the first nut. Took it back and bought the name brand and it lasted 3 lug nuts

Idea: a mirror you can clip on/near the block to see down and watch the bearing while you're tapping away on the long end. ;)

Not sure if anyone mentioned but those flare pieces will screw onto the long handle 🤔 😉🤣🤣 But on a serious note I chucked that cheap plastic cone and machined pucks to fit the ls series cam bearings/bore. Seemed to help alot with any kind of flagpole swaying.😁

I hope you put the back one in first and work yourself forward. The first one you install from the back of the block. If you try and put the bearing in the front the bearing will not center itself straight and the cam will not turn very easy. Years ago I bought one just for sbc and bbc and they were solid blocks. Work great. Still have it. Also have one of those universal ones with the rubber rings that hold sleeves together. And it was not cheap. Made by Hasting. A pain to use those. When the rubber rings rot away they cost more than the tool does.

I’ve done cam bearings with a socket welded to an expansion plug, and with a cheapo tool from summit. Do what ya gotta do lol

Lol at the multiple complaints about the length with the shorter handle in the box, I think we've all been there

Hey, who's the new guy? Lol. Thx, UTG!

I do around 50 sets a year I use my old driver set to remove and new 1 to install driver I have looks just like the one you have it has install around 200 set of bearings

I have a cheapie cam bearing installer probably 2008 or so and I tappy tap tapped the new durabond bearings in my SBC no problem.... But it does not look like that one, I think it was over $100 back then can't remember, there's no universal anything all the parts are just 1 piece different color anodized billet aluminum ,I can't remember but It may have been SBC specific. It came from jegs I think. I haven't touched it since.

Uncle Cathy, we want to see the bearing inside the block. We've seen Tony lots, lol.

good to see a tool demo. I'm about to pick up a piston ring compressor. How about doing a video on all the tools needed for an engine build, micrometer, dial bore gauge etc....