So very glad to hear!! We appreciate every one of these amazing comments. Thank you!!

A

Thank you!!

Glad I could help!

painting a car is pretty easy previding you have some gun skill I started at 14 been doing it ever since I'm now 64 just talk to your paint supplier their usually ex spray painters I've found them willing to help you out

Thank you very much

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Only he doesn't ask you to "join the VIP section" like others 👍

Thank you. I try to make it clear and concise

You are very welcome !

Thank you very much!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Thank you very much

Thank you I tried to keep it simple.

He articulates everything your mind could possibly want to know regarding this subject. Fantastic- all info on big subject in one place. AWESOME WORK - thank you from New Zealand 🇳🇿

Thank you very much!!

Thank you so much

Glad it was helpful!

👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Awesome I agree one stop shop 👍🏻

Hope it helps!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Thank you 👌🏻👍🏻

Thank you

Thank you!

🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻 thank you. Not all hero’s wear capes 🤣

Nailed it 💯💯💯

Glad we could help!

Thank you very much

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS am going to restore my old 73 beetle and I live overseas sadly ppl who work in the restoration and body work have no knowledge about products and and the right steps cars get painted after few years all the problems start showing like rust and shrinking and cracks 😞😞 so I’ll be trying to do it by myself or teach someone who has experience in body work what to do and what to use if we have the products here crossing fingers

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS can you plz send me your email I have questions about classic painting and restoring

Thank you

We’re very glad to hear that it helped. Thank you so much for your comment that means a lot.

Glad it helped

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

Thanks for watching!

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you.

Polyester for high build. Just need to seal them or they might fail. Also need a 2.0 tip gun to spray it correctly.

ever use 53xx over etch? Can you?

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Hahahahahahahahahahaha thank you!!

Thanks for visiting

🙌🏻🙌🏻

Awesome!!

Thank you

Glad it helped!

I’ve actually had a couple requests from this. We will have to do one in the future

Hey! Thank you very much 🙌🏻

Thank you so much

Hi Dean! Another epic novel! 😁 Just kidding. Yeah, I hear you on the elements in the midwest. It's a killer. They don't call it the rust belt for nothing. One difference also is the difference in metals that are used from 40+ years ago to today. Some vehicles years ago you could find galvanized metal in certain areas (Mustang rockers) and usually held up pretty well. Now, all the sheet metal has zinc coatings so you dont see that spider rust as much as you used to.Then there is HHS, UHSS, alloys with boron,laminated steel,aluminum and so on. So you really need to know where and what it is. High tech stuff. Take care.

You are 100% correct there’s so many ways in this industry that you can slice anyone project but you were on the right path. We’re happy to help and thanks for watching.

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Helping others succeed in their project using best practices is what we do. You teach, I learn, pay it forward. That is a true blessing to allow a total stranger to do it and be happy. Time is short. Travis, you pick some great topics for your videos, nice! I will say those that use product and let it cure, then destroy sample A, B, C etc get huge hits and likes. It is like project farms, except for automotive body. Did you ever see MrFireman164 do his Ospho to body filler torture test. I haven't checked but 1.4M views and thousands & thousands of likes & comments. Stay healthy Travis! I hate sinus issues, plus the sales / tech for my electrodes & controller, they gave up and quit. Bummer! DK, Omaha

Thank you!

Glad you enjoy it!

Thank you

All the custom work was with House OF KOLOR' Kosmoski started here in Minneapolis, Mn. Easy products to get! They used to be cheaper than regular colors, but notany more....

Thank you!!

Which primer?

Whatever works for you 👍🏻

Thank you!!

Glad you enjoyed it

Whatever works 👍🏻

I guess if you’re a lot of restoration work & applying body filler, I can see how these primers would be beneficial too!!

Well said. I've tried a few polyesters. Some Evercoat and PPG VP2100. By comparison, I liked the 2100. PPG was having trouble getting some ingredients a while back so it was offline. That's when I found the 2050 and stuck with it. I have used DP90LV reduced as a sealer for bare metal before polyester and had no issues with decent flash time and using just enough epoxy to cover. I was told by an Evercoat rep that the new generation of their polyesters are direct to metal if using the correct catalyst. Wouldn't recommend the Optex poly. It's a gimmick. Good concept but not enough contrast to call a guide coat. Sands like concrete. "I was in the pool". I caught that! "Like a frightened turtle". 😆

Thanks chris!

In regards to shrinkage all materials have a certain level of shrinkage the footage that was shown does not show it as good as I could. However, there is a good amount of shrinkage that happens with the ever coat that we sprayed in this video however, the VP 2050 has very little shrinkage and because it’s not just a straight epoxy it is a highbuild, it actually cures in three days And is not continuing to lose weight when measured on a scale. With that being said, you can topcoat the primer that we used with a poly, but I agree with your comment if you are using a traditional epoxy. thank you for your comment.

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS If either of your ever want to use a good polyester, l highly recommend the House of Kolor. Mixes with a hardener, no reducer, and sprays unbelievably smooth for a polyester. Like l said l used to use the evercoat slick sand and l had to reduce that by about 10-15% because it sprayed so chunky. This HoK poly sprays and sands even smoother than a reduced Evercoat product

@@looper451 Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind if I have any supply issues with the 2050 again. Do you happen to have a ballpark price on that?

You bet!

I’ll keep that in mind. If you have instagram we just did a bunch on a cobra

Not having much luck with Instagram lol to old to figure it out. Do have a question I've been researching primers what would you recommend for fiberglass? Father fil g2 or vp 2050 or both? Thanks again for your knowledge!! If your ever in north Carolina holler at me

I agree partially the only thing I disagree with is the shrinkage. If you do a shrink test on a bare panel you will see that all of the products have a level of shrinkage. Some are more than others weigh a 1‘ x 1‘ panel on a scale after spraying it with polyester only and then give it a few days and weigh it again then wait a few weeks and weigh it again. He will notice by doing this test the amount of shrinkage that no matter what every product has if it’s losing weight, it is shrinking if it stops losing weight, it is done shrinking.

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Never thought of looking at the weight aspect of it? If you sand it open and it still has a strong smell then the solvent is still in there. I guess the key here is that the type of work that we do on these old cars there should be no hurry to rush the products. I find that most people that have issues when painting is because they are in a hurry and don't let things dry properly. I give the products plenty of time to gas out. People also will sand and polish a vehicle way too soon because it seems to polish easier, well that is because it is still soft and then it dies back and you have to do it all over again. Be patient people. I have done the shrink test with clear before by leaving around an inch of leftover clear in the bottom of the plastic mixing cup and setting it aside for a few weeks, then look to see how much the puck has shrunk away from the sides. Pretty amazing actually and this test can be applied to primer also. Thanks for responding back and keep up the good work.

I agree

What do you recommend for a stripper?

Thank you very much. If your body work is where you need it to be if you are using a polyester primer, you would keep applying polyester until your body work is done and then you would be sealing it up. You do not want to go back-and-forth with different kinds of primer. It might be OK but you’re just asking for problems. This is specifically why I only use VP 2050 I can use it when I start and when I am finished and when that is wet sanded with 600 grit. Then I can go over the car with a sealer and basecoat back to back wet on wet.

Also, make sure you read the TDS sheet VP 2050 is not used as a sealer. You cannot paint over it directly wet on wet.

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS that makes sense to me... However though after having to re-apply more polyester primer (like the Evercoat featherfill or Clausen All-U-Need) wouldn't i want to go over that with Urethane Primer, do 1 last FINAL block, then use the primer Sealer? Or should these Polyester Featherfill/high build Primers be only applied OVER scratches instead of any Urethane Primers? It just seems that these Poly-Urethane Primers have alot less shrinkage then the Polyester products so I thought that maybe a high build Polyurethane would just play it safer then the High Build polyester feather fill stuff... I guess it would be also better on which decision at this step of the process to make, based on which of the 2 types of primers are easier and quicker to sand... Again I REALLY have thought long about your advice to only either Etch Prime, then Urethane Prime... or if using EPOXY PRIMER, apply EPOXY PRIMER, then apply POLYURETHANE Primer BEFORE DOING BODY WORK (FILLER, PUTTY, POLYESTER FEATHER FILL PRIMERS) SO THAT ANY OF THE POLYESTER BASED PRODUCTS ARE NOT ON BARE METAL (UNLESS THEY ARE SPECIFIED TO BE DTM)... So I guess what my question is, is that if I still had some small metal spots come through that weren't really high spots but lets say a high body line crease on a hood or top of a door panel, is it perfectly fine to go over that with some more DTM ONLY rated POLYESTER Primer? Or will I have to use the Self Etching Primer over these small bare metal areas??? And what about a PolyUrethane rated DTM Primer? Are those available? And if so Could I even use that still on top of body work before Primer Sealing? Or should that be Only applied on bare metal? But I i do get that if I were to use a DTM Polyurethane over the small metal areas poking through, then NOT to go back and use a Polyester Featherfill DTM Primer again... As this seems the multiple layers of Polyester products would get wavy waves from shrinkage on the multiple layers... I think answering this last FINAL Question will solve my dilemmas im having with the DTM rated stuff, When in doubt I would say that look on the Data Sheet to see if any of these DTM and DTM Polyester products have either typical shrinkage, very minimal, or virtually none! I feel Like we are not only learning bodywork skills, but a blend of that and mad scientist chemists 😆 since if you study and learn your chemical compounds, it should REALLY Help out on what, with, when, where to use in conjunction or next to another chemical compound make up of another product... Whether its the same brand or another Brand...

We greatly appreciate that!! Thank you!!

Thank you! You too!

They all vary. We strip ecoat and epoxy. After epoxy some get painted some get undercoated and some get lizard skin

Thank you for response!

I will not acid wash. I clean thoroughly with a degreaser scuff it up as best as I can use an epoxy primer and after that flash’s off go to paint. 👍🏻

I’ve never heard of it we use rust mort converter.

I recommend sealing the car in epoxy then doing your body work. Don’t use rust mort as an acid wash

I do not recommend 2050 as a sealer. Get an actual sealer.

We only use one primer vp2050 but yes you definitely could do it that way. I try and limit how many different primers I use because of potential failures etc. consistency is always best but do whatever works within your project and budget

No we hand sand all of our cars before body filler

Thank you! Unfortunately I haven’t used it. Which one of the three categories is it?

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS falls under the DTM epoxy hybrid. Can be a high build first then reduced to a surfacer, then sealer depending on the mix ratio. Thanks for your reply. Was just curious if you’d used it before. I’m trying to keep to 1 product line (house of kolor) or else I would have used vp2050. Your videos have helped me tremendously during my process. Thanks again!

@@chetstevens4929 that’s great best route to go. Thanks for watching we’re glad to hear the successes

I always make sure I go back over it with 2050 before I go to a urethane sealer you need uniform coverage and if you just rely on the urethane over the areas that burned through it will shrink back and have a halo later on down the road guaranteed ask me how I know 🤣

A 32nd and firm I say run it 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻 I’d say 1/16 is where I like to be at minimum

Thank you! Yep strip it down all the way and epoxy. You are on the right path. If it was me, I would use VP 2050 to do the whole thing start to finish and not use any other primer. I’m not just saying that for no reason that’s all we use and we have great results.

Unfortunately I’m not familiar with that

Stripper discs or acid dipping is ideal

Thank you!

The main reason I like vp2050 so much is that it’s one product instead of having to use several. Which results in better consistency and less failures. But whatever works👍🏻

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I don't so much about failure, if I'm using the same products from primer, base coat to clear.

Best route is an epoxy highbuild hands down. Vp2050 is what I’d recommend.

Thank you. CRE is the industrial version of the same product VP 2050 you are correct when they had shortages with the resin‘s. We were using CRE and it worked amazing. and yes, if you are going over an existing paint job, you can do that with his primary as well.

Yes, exactly!! Thanks for watching!

Thank you. Yeah they all have a different make up of chemicals. This video was intended for people to just help them get a clear direction on where they need to start so it’s not overwhelming. Thanks for your comment.

Yeah sand the powder really good it’s strong stuff and you can go over it 👌🏻

You do not have to seal with a urethane and then wet sand. I actually block everything out to 220 grit, and then I wet sand with 600 and a spray urethane sealer and go directly into basecoat clearcoat after it flashes off. Here’s the caveat, depending on how good you spray you might have orange peel that Will make your basecoat and clearcoat look not as good so if you want to take the extra steps to wet sand, the urethane then by all means do so there’s a bunch of different ways you can slice this.

Upol went down hill we don’t use it anymore. We use rage ultra or 3m platinum plus

We’re glad you enjoy them. We always do epoxy first. If you go back to the beginning of our channel, we cover a lot of that stuff. Thanks for watching.

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you, I will most certainly go look at the earlier vids. Keep up the great work 🙏

@@dalewesleyfly thank you

Depends on the product and mill thickness etc but yes it could. I use an epoxy highbuild

Yes I strip everything to bare metal with 80 grit on a DA then epoxy

You are talking two different questions. Etch is for bare metal if you are not using epoxy or a DTM. A sealer is done before paint. Does that answer it?

Absolutely. Vp2050 is honestly hood it all situations.

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS can I ask your take on CRE epoxy primer? Only reason I ask is they offer a black primer and I saw another person saying when they don’t use DP2050, they will use this.

Thank you! Technically acid washing is optional. You can just DA sand with 80 grit wax and grease remover to clean the metal and go straight to vp2050