For as long as I have been interested in swords I've been hearing this same debate on what is a good edge, historical edge, and the best edge to have on a sword. The fact is, swords are tools and depending on the target someone is cutting at, the edge can be ground different to suit its purpose. The fact that people are quite easy to cut (without cloth or armor coverings) means that it does not take much to be able to do some damage to a person ( I got a cut from a cardboard box the other day.) Now all that said people today use their swords in a wide variety of ways, from decoration on a wall or hip at a renaissance fair, training tools, research tools, to cutting swords in competition. Sword makers today serve many or all of these markets while trying to keep their prices as reasonable as possible. Most sword makers are able to make an edge as sharp/polished as you would want but 1. many customers dont want it 2. it costs more in time and labor to do it. I tell people if they are planning to enter a HEMA cutting competition they need to plan on sharpening their sword when they buy it and as they use it. Thanks Craig and the A&A for taking the time to film this, this will be a great video to send to people the next time the topic comes up.

Plus, edges are consumable things. Even 3V won’t hold an edge forever and will need to be re-sharpened. I’d rather have good primary bevels and the ability to maintain a good “using” edge than a single-use “perfect” bevel.

Geometry cuts, but a good handle makes it a whole lot easier to use. Keep up the good work!

I estimate the edge angle on both my newer katana (made late 70's) and my early Edo period katana to be about 15 degrees (30 total) right at the cutting edge, but both are fairly thick in the blade and there's a lot of convexity to the bevels.

The riddle of steel

Yeah, in my experience you don't need that much of an edge. Now like RyanSoCal, I think one size does not fit all, by the mid 13th sword were tools and probably were more dedicated. IE if we think we will have to deal with mail or plate and it makes sense to get more niku. The implication for cutting tatami is more welly (and either more support for the beg/bottom of the matt for upwards cuts or doing hanging targets.) and that it will never be as "easy" as if we are using a shinken purposefully made for tamashigery or blade like an "alexendria" which seems to be more an every day in town type of sword. I am not sure that the edge was consitant through the blade, i am getting a sword made on the model of the 7294_SHOES (basically a type XVIIIc oe a (ie no ricasso with a scandinavian handle (ie 45 cm handle+pommel, 100 cm blade 5mm thick, 5cm wide at the hilt and 2.9mm t20 cm of the point). On the same vein, it make sense have the tip of my XIIia much sharper than the rest of the blade, because tip cut and shaper is better to go through cloth.

I'd be curious to learn how to sharpen a sword. I've "sharped" mine before but i don't really know what I'm doing.

Yay

Great vid , I daresay it won't put to rest the ongoing debate(I use that term loosely)about the perfect edge, I shall add to it by saying it doesn't exist ,if a warrior can beat opponents with a wooden sword (musashi)in a duel then I contend that skill shall win the day over edge.all the best from sunny Troon 😊