Thank you so very much! We truly appreciate your kind words.

It is the wonderful comments such as yours that makes KZfaq so fun for us. We are tickled pink that we were able to help.

I'm glad it was helpful!

You're welcome!

Glad to hear that we came to the same conclusion. 😁

Welcome!

Huw, I will be 100% honest with you. I originally used Lightburn for the most basic function of converting an image to an SVG file. As I worked on projects, I would have an idea and of wishing Lightburn could do this or do that, only to find out it does. I end up trying a new button or feature and the light comes on and I realize how good and easy it is. I am by no means an expert but if you ever have a question, just ask and I will do my best to provide you with a proper resolution.

@@Poor_Mans_DIY Thanks Richard, That's a very kind offer.

Thank you so very much for sharing. xTools has been doing a fantastic job updating XCS. I am able to load images into multiple elements automatically, more often, but I find Lightburn does an even better job, so I use lightburn first, save the image as an SVG an load that into XCS. I suspect xTool will make more changes and get even closer to Lightburn capabilities. Soon, I hope. :-) Thank you again for taking the time to watch our video and for leaving your wonderful tip.

Great question! I have rarely had a reason to worry about the sequence but I believe I did some testing when I first got it. I was under the impression the machine automatically did scoring and engraving before cutting. If that is not the case, try assigning different colors to different jobs. i.e change all engraving lines to blue and all cut lines to black. Then try dragging and dropping the color dots to a different sequence. Try black dot as top layer and blue dot as second layer, the see what the laser sequence is. Then move blue layee to top and see if sequence changes. I hope this helps

I select the object and when it is highlighted, I simply press the Delete key on my keyboard. I hope this helps you but if not, please let me know and I will do my best to find another possible resolution for you.

I have learned that is has to do how the vector image is created. some times images are fully grouped and other images come in ungrouped. I did some research and there is a technical reason for it but it was over my head. :-) I use colors to group and ungroup. I select a large group of shapes and change them to a different color, then hide all other colors. I then select ones that I want as a different color and change them. It leaves me with all the shapes I do want. I hope this makes some sense. Thank you for watching our video and for your question.

I search for "laser" "SVG" "Bundles" on Google or specifically on Etsy. They have tons. Individual cut files are a couple dollars but I see some with thousands of files for $29, etc. Might be worth a try. In my experience, 5W machines can cut very thin wood but are more designed for engraving. As for engraving settings, it isn't a one size fits all. Any time you engrave, you should run a test pattern. You will be able to select the best power and speed based on the results. I hope this helps but if you have more questions, feel free to reach out to me

If I have a small price of wood will the laser scan it to make sure the image fits ?

You can adjust the image to make it smaller to fit on a small piece of wood. This works fine for engraving but not for cutting. The cut files to make boxes are designed to be used with 3mm or 5mm (approximately 1/8" or 1/4"). If you change the size of the image, the pieces will no longer fit together. Hope this makes sense

@@Poor_Mans_DIY thank you

That sounds like a very interesting challenge to take on. I might have to try something. My first instinct is to create a large image in something like a poster making program that allows you to print a giant image using many sheets of paper. The take each individually printed image and upload to XCS

@@Poor_Mans_DIY well you will be the first to show us if you make it work 😁

I always use scrap wood that is the same thickness as the wood I am cutting or engraving. I then make four squares to engrave in all four corners so I know where the real image will actually cut or engrave. I hope this helps.