Thanks for watching Rick! I appreciate having you as a viewer!

Thanks for the feedback, Drowe! I'm glad you liked them! They are a bit more difficult to grab, as the Wyze cameras don't make it easy to pull the large timelapse videos down remotely, so I need to physically remove the SD Cards and copy them off, but I thought they added some cool perspectives. I'm going to keep adding them in future videos, and from the recommendation of another subscriber, as some point I will add one really close to the slab for a close up shot. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!

Thanks for the compliments Johnny! It sounds like what happened there is exactly what happened here! They were way off on the predictions on this one! Thanks for taking the time to comment and watch, I really appreciate it!

Thanks Susan! I actually do have the ability to turn the system on remotely from my phone, so I could have done it from work. For this storm I hesitated because the temperatures were expected to be so warm I didn't think it would even accumulate. By the time I got home there was already 4-5" and I figured even if it did melt it would take a while so I might as well melt it for the content. The commute home was not fun, even for Buffalo where we are pretty familiar with these conditions. Thanks for being a viewer, subscriber, and for taking the time to watch and comment on my videos, I really appreciate it!

Thanks man, appreciate that!

I’ve been following that on the news! I think some areas there have gotten more snow that is this season! Here was our blizzard: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b61dqMx4yKqZhYU.html Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for the compliments! This video talks about costs: Answering the Top 5 Most Frequently Asked Questions About my Buffalo NY Heated Driveway - [12-3-22] kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sNx_hLaCzsfVhKs.html and this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNWkfaiCzs24m6s.html talks about how I calculate the cost to operate. I will be doing a more recent version of that video soon.

Hi Warren! Yup, the guy you're referring to from the forums is a good friend of mine. He gave me a lot of pointers during my design. We still chat regularly, great guy. You can see a short video of his setup here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eKqloa2axuCuoWQ.html Radiant heat is the BEST! It is by far the most comfortable. I was heating the garage for years with hanging Reznor unit heaters until I finally fired up the Radiant, and the difference is night and day. Even at 62ºF the garage feels warmer than it ever did with the unit heaters. Also, when we pull the cars in and out, as soon as the door closes it's instantly warm again. With the unit heaters all of the hot air would go out and it would be cold until they caught back up. I'm assuming you've watched my video on the continuous circulation? If you have any specific questions, just ask. So for the Belimo valves, the snowmelt zone is bigger because its 1 1/4" vs 1" for the radiant zones. The part number for the larger body is B331 and the actuator is AFRBUP. The smaller bodies are B323 and the actuators are LF120. I ordered them "fail-closed" so when no power is applied they are bypassing. When powered, they "open" and send the glycol back through the Heat Exchanger. You could do 3 units if you really need that many BTU's. They can be easy-linked together but when your activating them using pumps like I am it really doesn't matter. They both see the same flow from the pump all of the time, so they both fire all of the time, not like normal domestic hot water usage where the flow varies based on use, fixtures, etc. What was your cousins name? Hopefully that answers your questions, if not, just ask! Thanks for watching!

@@DeckerChristopherJ yes radiant is the best. Have had it in some farm shops. I have helped a plumber (my brother) install some pex years ago for a subfloor application. Im building a 40x64 post frame shop with about 1100 ft of loft living space. I have a 1600 ft driveway pad and about another 1600 ft of other surrounding pads to snowmelt. I figured i would do the shop slab as 1 zone at 50-55, living space subfloor at 68-70, and then 3 different snowmelt of 1600, 825, and 850 areas. I dont need to do all 3 at the same time. We dont get that much snow here compared many parts of SD but the wind blows and drifts and we have temp fluctuations but not always enough to completely melt away and it makes ice. I plan to have a forced air unit for air conditioning and shoulder season supplemental heat. I ran the snowmelt calcs but for a colder and windier day and my numbers for 1600 ft were like 3x of yours. In reality I think your numbers better reflect reality of when actually using the system. And if it takes a few days to melt through, so be it, I just want to get rid of the ice situations. I still need to more accurately calculate my heat loads for the shop and loft, so im just guessing at the moment that 3 unit could handle the domestic water for 1-2 people, primary heat, and on demand half of my snowmelt if not all of it. Waitin and hoping to hire a hvac company to do a manual j and size hvac ducts and see what they come up with for numbers and a system. Im guessing their system is going to be much more complex and $$$$. Im still researching specifics and getting educated at this point and hope to pour main slab in may. Lou Raguse. He just released a true crime book "vanished in vermillion"

Do you have a pool? You could easily run it in reverse to pull the Texas heat off the driveway for your hot water or pool 😀. I tried it a while back but it wasn't hot enough for me: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p5pkf9KnztOuo30.html You might have better results in Texas!

Hey Jeff! So I DIY’d the entire system myself. I discuss cost in more detail in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sNx_hLaCzsfVhKs.html I would’ve turned it on remotely from work, but this particular storm came quickly and accumulated fast. With temps expected to be in to 40’s overnight I was also debating if it was going to melt off overnight. Once I got home and realized we had almost 5” and the temps were lower than expected, I realized it was not. I think that FAQ video above will open you up to my channel and you will enjoy my other melting, design and install videos 😊. Thanks for watching!

@@DeckerChristopherJ Hi Chris, thanks for the quick reply. I realized you made an entire series on your install after I posted this comment. You inspired me to do things I wouldn't normally do but this is too big of a jump to start. 😆 I've been living in the same home here in Toronto for over 35 years and never did I think of installing a heated driveway system. I always thought of it for the rich or for custom built homes. Are there any issues with your system other than the leaks from the plumbing? Do you ever need to top off the coolant fluid? Thanks!

Not quite yet Chris, I spoke to soon 😊. March has been pretty active so far! Lots more coming for the channel in the off season this year, hopefully some of you will stick around! Thanks for watching and commenting man, always appreciate it!

@@DeckerChristopherJ righteous! How far is Waterloo from you?

I do. So for 30-60 days I clocked the gas meter at 7:45 AM and 7:45 PM and entered the data into a spreadsheet. I also recorded the outdoor temperature over the 12 hour period. This allowed me to calculate my "normal" usage based on day of the week and outside temperature, as those will both affect usage. We use more when it's colder obviously, and more on weekends when we're here vs weekdays where're gone (setback). For each video, I read the meter when I turn the system on, and again when I turn it off. I note the day of week the system was running, and the average outdoor temp over the events run time. With that info I have a pretty good idea what my typical 24-Hour usage is based on the usage data I collected, so I enter that, and my spreadsheet does the rest to calculate the cost to run for the event, subtracting out the "normal" cost that I would be paying anyways to heat the house, garage & hot water. Every month when I get my gas bill, I update the cost per CCF and other totals in the spreadsheet so that it is calculating it based on the most recent bill, and provides the most accurate estimate. It's not perfect, but I think I've got it calculated down to being pretty darn close to what it's really costing me. I will do another video showing the spreadsheet and calculations at the end of this winter. For now, you can kind of see how I do in in this video, but it's a couple of years old now. Gas prices have risen dramatically, and the spreadsheet has also come a long way since then, but it gives you a basic idea: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNWkfaiCzs24m6s.html Hope that info helps! Thanks for watching!!

@@DeckerChristopherJ WOW ok that's a LOT more in depth than I would have imagined. It was just a curiosity question that poped in my head when watching the end of your video. I love watching the timelapse, it's just mesmerizing to me :)

Absolutely! Ideally I would turn it on about 2 hours before the snow begins so the slab was up to temp when the snow started. In that case unless the snow was significantly heavy, it would melt on impact and keep up just fine with no accumulation. There are also automated controls I can add to the system that would automatically turn it on when moisture / water is sensed and the outdoor temperature is less than 32ºF.

Hi David! So this system is hydronic, not electric. There are 14 individual loops that could easily be isolated in the rare case of a problem. You can learn more here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sNx_hLaCzsfVhKs.html Thanks for watching!

Hi Bill. Most of it evaporates. I discuss that in a bit more detail in this video if you're interested: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sNx_hLaCzsfVhKs.html Thanks for watching!

Hi Campus X! They’re legit. I have no reason to lie about it. It costs about $1.00 per hour to run once up to temperature. As you’ll see in my other videos, it’s actually cheaper and more efficient the longer it runs, as most of the cost is in the first 2 hours during startup. I will do another breakdown video after this winter showing exactly how I calculate the operating cost, like I did for February of 2021 here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNWkfaiCzs24m6s.html Believe it or not, it actually cost about 50% LESS to operate back then thanks to the increase in natural gas prices this winter. Just to give you an idea of how I get that cost, for 30-60 days I clocked the gas meter at 7:45 AM and 7:45 PM and entered the data into a spreadsheet. I also recorded the outdoor temperature over the same 12 hour period. This allowed me to calculate my "normal" usage based on day of the week and outside temperature, as those will both affect usage. We use more gas when it's colder obviously, and more on weekends when we're here vs weekdays we're gone (setback). For each video, I read the meter when I turn the system on, and again when I turn it off. I note the day of week the system was running, and the average outdoor temp over the events run time. With that info I have a pretty good idea what my typical 24-Hour usage is based on the usage data I collected, so I enter that data and my spreadsheet does the rest to calculate the cost to run for the event, subtracting out the "normal" cost that I would be paying anyways to heat the house, garage & hot water. Every month when I get my gas bill, I update the cost per CCF and other totals in the spreadsheet so that it is calculating cost based on the most recent bill, and provides the most accurate estimate. It's not perfect, but I think I've got it calculated down to being pretty darn close to what it's really costing me. Hopefully that helps clear any doubt! 😊 Thanks for watching!!