I hope you found this useful :) Another build video will be coming out in the next few weeks!

Wauw! This is fantastic! Thanks! My contribution to this great technique: -Use Zippo Lighter Fluid (as on the metallic container it comes in= FEURZEUGBENZIN= ESSENCE A BRIQUET= AANSTEKERBENZINE ) -I use this Zippo stuff and it works great; work from the edge of the decal, roll it up wit a stif brush in a "sticking" motion, not in a dragging motion. -Zippo evaporated quick and clean, without any residue on the surface. -Zippo is also great because it does not attack the paint (not even metallics! but be careful, always test!) -Zippo also works great for cleaning/feathering Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. -MIG odourless enamel thinner A.MIG-2018 totally did not work for me as comapared to Zippo -Mr Hobby Aqueous Hobby Color Thinner does work, butit is more agressive to the base coat and the decal under the removable film -Do note that removing a cover film is obviously more tricky and difficult when you have hammered/melted it down with a decal solution on top of the decal! -Strong decal solutions below the decal may also "melt" the decal AND COVER FILM, so reducing your succes of easily removing the cover film. -I had good results with Humbrol decalfix below AND on top of these decals; the film needed a bit more persuasion but it dis come of rather easy and clean! I hope this helps those who have a hard time finding "the right white spirit" for this job, as in the Netherlands, white spirit is not a common known thing,. Zippo lighter fluid is mostly sold in the small cigarette selling shops all over the Netherlands in 125ml black and red colored rectangular shaped metallic containers.

Great guide, thanks! I used the same technique with Tamiya X-20 (not X-20A) on my Eduard Wildcat and removing the carrier film was a breeze.

I'll have to try to remember this if i ever actually buy any newer eduard kits. I had to put myself on a buying hiatus until my stash is worked down to a more reasonable level 😂

Really cool model and paint job.

thats a fantastic tip to remove the film i will be doing this the next time i do a eduard kit with the new decals and the model looks fantastic 🤩

That camel is superb.

I have heard not to use enamel thinner as sometimes they have much more aggressive chemicals in them that can mess up the underlying paint. Stick to white spirits or mineral spirits (as they're known in the States). These decals are reaching popularity only previously achieved by Revell of Germany kit boxes.

This is good to know. Thanks much!!

very nice tip!

Hey there, very helpful video thanks for sharing, cheers Liam

Definitely have to try this next time I use these decals. I guess I'm in the minority camp here that really likes them. Especially over Tamiya decals

how would you deal with enamel paints such as Xtreme Metals?

Why would anyone risk damaging their work with these decals, just not worth the hassle. Can’t imagine for one minute doing this with all the stencilling. Massive own goal from Eduard. Just give us some decent decals like the Cartagraph ones supplied with their earlier kits even if it costs slightly more

This worked well for the roundels but unfortunately damaged the code lettering on the side of my Eduard early Mk.1 spitfire, no matter how careful I was. I used AK white spirits and a cotton bud.

Much better way to do it. 👍👍👍👍

Hi interesting technique, can you please qualify if you use odourless or normal white spirit?

Can you do this with any waterslide decal? I've ordered a 1:18 F1 car model and the carrier film is extremely thick and bridges over the matte paint, making it very obvious.

Hi there ... could you answer a quick question ... when painting and detailing a model surly the best way is to have the model on a firm surface ... then the only moving piece is the paint brush ... I see lots of videos show model being held and in the other hand the brush ... both moving independently ... how do you get very fine detail ???

there should be a method to add more decal film to the existing decals

Just got to ask ( I doubt I'll get a reply as this is 2 months late), but will I be able to use decalfix or microsol and varnishes over the decal once I've removed the film? Or will I have to do both of these before removing the film?

Do you think the new Eduard decals give a better result than Cartograf? I'd be more inclined to use them if that was the case. Personally I don't think there's sufficent improvement.

The funny thing about the "removable" cover film is that Eduard never intended them to be removable in the first place! That's why they're so fiddly! 🤣

If ever there was a case of “if it’s not broken don’t fix it” it’s this mad idea to change decals…decades using Eduards own decals, actually they were very good, then they give us this? Seriously who wants to be peeling the film of National markings, after the end of the build and ain’t job perhaps even weathering…I tried them on a BF 109, the carrier film stood proud after a coat of varnish, you CANT leave them or remove film, it ain’t an option, they have to come off, and when I did remove stencilling form the a/c it peeled in different ways…utter disaster. My argument for this, at what point in modelling did you have to remove carrier film? They don’t (despite what others say) behave like HGW, I utterly hate the new decals ….nuff said. Sorry, but it’s so frustrating, Eduards old decals were first class.

More hassle than its worth

Nice video, but content creators shouldn’t have to be making videos like this in the first place. All Eduard have done is create extra work that I didn’t have to do before, they’ve also increased the risk/likleyhood that I’ll ruin my paint job, all for something that offers no tangible gain or reward (imho). If it’s a cost saving they’re after, I’m skeptical if it’ll pay off, as I personally have come away (not completely) from Eduard kits due to the fact I’m spending additional funds on aftermarket decals. Nothing against trying new things, but not at the expense of my time and wallet.

Todays tips are paid for by Eduard who cocked up and need to convince modellers that they are the issue not Eduard...