You had me up until the 24k gold distribution block at the very end and was like "looks like I'll deal with the static noise" lol i still might upgrade the ground wire though. Thanks for the video!

Great expertise and craftsmanship and you can tell you are very proud of what you do and you want to do it right. If only all tradesmen were like you. Keep up the good work.

Love your service when it time for me to upgrade my system I'm coming to your business from California

I had to show you love for this video. It really opened my eyes. I am working on a project bike with my son. And I watched this video and my jaw hit the floor. Why? Because I am not trying to go crazy and get in competition audio but I do want my stuff to look and sound well. You make something so daunting and make it easy to digest. If you’re ever in Atlanta I would love to meet and pick your brain. Again you’re the best. Thank you

Excellent video, packed full of information to do the work right. Not everyone shares their learned wisdom, for me it is adding the extra fused block for accessories, which answers a need I have with my 03 HD Ultra. Thanks!!

Excellent explanation, awesome work, thanks 👍👍

Great video!! Can't tell you how much this info just helped me!!

I always prefer running the ground and power wire the same exact length directly to the battery when able to. Not relying on a frame or any other possible failure points. Straight to battery cannot be beat, but it's not cost effective either and having to many ring terminals on the battery can be horrible but manageable SOMETIMES. But running to the frame is always my 2nd option, and as stated adding bigger grounds alone can often make a big difference. Everything else is spot on the way i do it, with exception i use a hammer anvil to put the terminal on then solder,(no hydraulic press for me) and i also always stick to recognizable colors and you can't go wrong. Good video and information. I'm not a team NO FUSE guy, so i like that you speak about fused distribution blocks, would of liked to talk more about proper fusing and why it's done. But I'm sure you got another video somewhere with that in detail. Glad to see your attention to detail, professional and knowledgeable. Too many junk shops out there, i haven't found but only 1 place i trust, and I've been all over the country.

Dropin so many JEWELS....thanks for the info!

Salute!

I am a retired avionics technician. The only addition I would do after upgrading the ground is I would RTV the ground bolthead and the threaded end to keep moisture away.

Basically do it right this is the correct way so any thing less is substandard 💯😎👍

Can you still install mid frame heat deflectors with that bolt in that spot ?

Do you offer pre terminated ground kits for folks who do the self installs? If so I would be interested.

What are you using for a sub fuse panel? And where do you normally mount it? Thanks

So you leave factory ground hooked up and run another wire from battery ground to the new bolt witch has the amp connections

How do you add a 2nd battery? My 2003 fxdl, does not have room for a bigger size battery. 4 amplifiers

HI Carlos, I just bought 2012 street glide with JL Audio system. Has small mono block in fairing and (2) larger ones on the same rear bag. leaving 1 bag free for storage. This bike is having issues of blowing out fuses on main panel about every 10th start it blows either the 15a ignition fuse or next to it fuel inject fuse. I do not see any distribution blocks and the 4g amp positive and negative wires are all right to battery. . . . . I have had the bike about month and if i leave the amp wires off the batter (not connected) bike runs perfect no issues. What do you suggest? after seeing this i may try to add 0g ground wire from batt. to the frame and ground amps on frame while leaving positive on the battery. what would be your first move. . . Thank man

2007 street glide with a 2000.4 sound digital and 6 6.5” skar coaxial speakers and a 800.4 sound digital on 2 6.5” skar dvc subs wired up to run 400watts total to sub all amps and speakers are 4 ohm not gonna be running it wide open just what do you recommend for battery setup

I am having issues with my 13 Street Glide aftermarket system. As long as the my bike is sitting still, my system plays all day with no static. But when I start to ride, I hear a pop or static interruption from time to time. What is the issue?

What size are those 5/16 Bolts 1ich or half inch long?

I just bought a 13 sg with a Sony head unit that shuts off when I make a left turn. PLEASE HELP

Do you have a link to a fuse distribution block for under the side panel you use and trust?

Will this stop ground loop whine through speakers? Should I also upgrade the engine ground to a larger gauge.

Do I need to upgrade my stator after switching to the braille battery? I’m using a 800.4, 1200.4 & 3000.1 all in the fairing….

Hi. I just got a system installed yesterday. The shop installed a 4 speak setup. 2 in the fairing are 4 ohm and the 2 in the bags are 2 ohm. 1000 watt 4 channel amp. A 10 channel 31 band EQ. Sound Baggers setup. He used the battery for a ground source. Immediately I Noticed the hum and asked the guy and he told me thats normal. It even Hums when the radio is off. Will upgrading the factory ground help? Also the fairing speakers frequencies are so high pitched that they are ear piercing. Listener fatigue happens at any thing over half on the volume. Its this common across-the-board in the category of 6.5 speaks. Thanks. Please advise

I like to get a wiring harness with these upgraded power & ground wires

Maybe this is why mine is winding when i hit the throttle

I have a distribution block 4 gauge from stinger battery to block and 2 8 gauges from there to amps. What’s the best way to leave it and upgrade the ground?

Where did you mount that distribution block?

You said a 0 guage power run from the battery to the frame?