No backing plate for the year I got that set from. The pre Obd 2 models still had studs on the bottom of them, even tho they had 3 individual coils, no backing plate. Series 2 and up need them 100%.

@@caayydenn That's what I had thought too, even swore I'd seen them at some point. But GM Genuine part number D1977A interchanges from 1990 on the Buick Regal all the way up to 2009 on a few applications. It's kind of impressive they came up with a design that lasted almost 20 years like that. Anyway, just thought Id mention it in case people go to buy new parts and realize there's other things they need.

I have one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rM6YfbaQ0LuUhH0.html

Haven’t done this upgrade yet but yeah, I’ve changed one on the side of a highway, on a hot engine in the Florida sun. Fun time that was

Oh trust me I've learned a decent amount over the years. This is a 1990 Pontiac Bonneville. Transmission modulator was replaced a year ago to swap out original unit. Regular fluid and filter changes. Transmission seems to be holding up well for as much as I've driven it. Plan to keep it going forever. About to roll 350K.

That's a good question actually. I'd have to say series 2 because of the additional HP it has. That's IF the intake is metal, along with the fuel lines too. But that's not the case, so I prefer the pre-series (88-91) 3800 for longevity. The pre series 3800 is more labor friendly. The power steering pump is an example, and you don't need a puller to remove the harmonic balancer on a pre series. Doing the plugs on the back are a little easier to reach I think as well. Pre series parts are cheaper as well, and still readily available.

Thanks caayydenn that's the kind of answer I like hearing, you've been a great help, keep pushing out great content 👍@@caayydenn

Check out my video on replacing the magnavox ICM and you will see.

G body? You must mean H. You may have trouble with ignition modules failing and other electrical issues. I've seen quite a few that have had the cam magnet fall out of the cam sprocket and the SES light stays stuck on. Intake gaskets are not an issue on these like they are on the series 2. Not much to go wrong really, just keep fluids clean. Rust finally did this Bonneville in, sadly.

Did you buy a Series II ICM? That I know for sure doesn't have studs. This ignition set up is from 92-95. Should still have studs.

@@caayydenn I told the man behind the o’Reillys counter I had a 95 Buick which I thought was a series 1 and he pulled everything off of that year model. Was 95 a half year for the series 1?

@@gman1285 I'm not certain. It might be.

@@caayydenn All the series 1 icm that I can find are the 6 through hole design for a threaded mounting bracket. I think I may just be falling victim to poor aftermarket support. Might just have to do a junkyard run. Lol Thanks for the help though

@@gman1285 95 was a half year for the series 1, and the late series 1 had differences compared to the early series 1, so you may have something that works for series 2. in my opinion, a used factory ICM and coil set will be better than a new part store dice roll of quality.

Its more reliable than a series 2, but doesnt have quite the hp a series 2 does. Main reason I say more reliable is because the LN3 has a solid metal one piece intake that doesn't have the leaking/warping problem like the series 2 upper intake thats made of plastic that is guaranteed to fail at some point. The fuel rail connections on the LN3 are solid metal and aren't plastic and will never fail like on the series 2. Plenty have gone up in flames that way. Maintenance is easier overall.

@@caayydenn A new performance-oriented Touring Sedan model was introduced in 1987.[30] The Touring Sedan was based on the Ninety-Eight Regency and featured a long list of standard equipment including leather seats designed by Lear Siegler, anti-lock brakes, an onboard computer (1988-1990), FE3 sport suspension, self-closing trunk (1988-1990), burl walnut interior, console shifter, 15-inch (1987 and 1988) or 16-inch (1989 and 1990) alloy wheels, and more. Guy has one ('90) in Fl engine is very clean 115k ,is it worth 3k? Last yr of this model egine I think.

@@edwarddinardo2830 91 was the last year of the LN3. If everything works and it is mechanically sound, and has good paint, its definitely worth $3K. Seeing as it only has 115K, I would ask if its ever had a timing chain put in it. Its at about that mileage where the tensioner might be pretty worn and should look into a timing kit relatively soon, just to be safe.

I have a 1990 Oldsmobile 98, and the bracket seems to only support the 3 stud fitment. Would drilling holes work?

@Victor Black The module I used in the video is from a 92-94 model so it still has studs. You could definitely try drilling holes so the series 2 ICM will bolt down, I've just never seen it done myself.

Note that your 87 probably has the red dot 3.8 which is a bit different from the 3800. It may still work tho I've just never seen it myself.

Correct that was most likely the LG3 (has the "red dot" on top of the engine that says "3.8 liter"). The LN3 (first year they called it the "3800") came out in 1988.

Minot eh? I use to live there. Yes it will work for your engine. It's not an hp upgrade just a reliability upgrade.

@@caayydenn oh cool I’m from Berthold actually but I got the car in minot lol small world

@dallasdelano8235 I use to live in Berthold too! From 10'-13'. My mom still currently lives there. Went to school there for a little while. Small world.

@@dallasdelano8235 I was just there for graduation in May. My brother Michael graduated and has gone to school in Berthold pretty much his whole life.

@@caayydenn yeah I know Michael I graduated with him. I am also Nathan’s friend but I’ve never met you.

The benefits are it is known to be a more reliable unit. You have 3 individual coils instead of a 6 pack so you don't need replace the whole pack when it fails, can be just one at a time. All ignition timing settings will be the same. So fuel economy should be what it's rated for if everything is working right. I usually get about 17 city and 27 in my Bonneville. For the heat issues, there's a few tests you can do. I imagine your LeSabre may not have came with a temp gauge. You can grab each heater hose. One should be hot, one should be significantly cooler (with blower on). I assume your coolant is full. Although a thermostat issue is not uncommon on these. Has to be an OEM buy. Others will not come with the gasket that wraps around the thermostat, which is 100% needed. However, it could be a blocked heater core. I recently replaced mine on my 1990 Regency and that fixed it. Flushing can help, but I prefer to replace with an all aluminum unit, as the OEM ones have plastic tanks that risk rupture (happened in my Bonneville). If yours has auto climate control, the unit could be malfunctioning and not opening your blend door. You'd have to take the glove box out and look to see if the blend door arm moves when you select a temp (auto temp control only). Manual temp controls should never have that issue unless one of the vacuum lines from the unit becomes disconnected or has a tear. One of my recent videos shows what that looks like. Overall these cars are pretty easy to diagnose. I wish you luck, I love answering questions and seeing that many of these cars are still out there.

​@Caayydenn Thanks for your response. I am having trouble being able to respond in full, not sure if it is my phone or youtube problem. Will respond again when problem is corrected. .

@Caayydenn Hi. I am trying to respond again, after having trouble responding before. My heater has a manual type lever to slide left or right, to select hot or cold air. I plan to get the factory GM thermostat for my car, to see if it will fix heating problems. Can get that thermostat w/ gasket for $10 or $11 online. As for flushing heater core, my neighbor says you can disconnect hoses to heater core, flush out antfreeze from core, pour in straight Bleach and let it sit a while in heater core. Afterwards, flush Bleach out of heater core and reconnect heater hoses. Neighbor says it has fixed heating problems for some people he knows. I have been looking online about upgrading the ignition system, but when i put my 91 LeSabre info in, i just see the old manavox style icm and 6 pack coilpak parts. I would prefer to get new parts online to do the ICM and (3) Coil pak upgrade. What info would i need to type in to find correct upgrade for ICM/(3) Coil paks for my car?

@B. Lowery You just need to say it's for a 1992-1994 model. That's the only difference. If you type in 1991, it's always gonna offer you the original magnavox style. I pulled mine at a junkyard tho to save money. Did that for all 3 of my 3800s now.

@Caayydenn Ok. Thank you very much. I am going to check into that. My main concern is to minimize engine stalling around gown and if i go on a long trip. From what i have read, the magnavox ignition system components just don't last long, so i want to avoid that.

Only up to 1994 or 1995 because in later years the mounting bracket changed

You can use coils and icm from up to a 2008 lucerne (3800 series 3) if you wanted to. You just need the adapter bracket from (3800 engine) cars between 1992 and 1995.

Any 3800 from 1988-1994 will have the same bracket and stud location for the ICM to bolt down to. Connector will be the same as well. Although they didn't go to the separate coil pack style until 1992. Very cool that you have an SSE I've always wanted one but they're non existent in northern states. Planning on selling? Lol

Was my winter car. Rust is too bad now to daily it on salty roads. And trust me, it looked a lot worse when I first bought the car over 4 years ago.

Well I'm located in South Dakota (Mt. Rushmore area). It's probably a long shot that you'd even be located even remotely close to me but I'd be interested if you were.

No, it's not dumb actually, especially when you're missing the o ring for the thermostat because nobody can make it correctly, so coolant bypasses the thermostat still. The car was running too cool that way so, cardboard blocks off some air flow to let it get closer to operating temp while driving down the road.

@@caayydenn My bad. Now I understand.

In Canada we do that all the time, try driving your car in -40°C temps and see how much heat you get when you don't cover the rad!@@orinmangar2333