Thanks for putting my information about Chay Chen in the video 😆

I can't believe you allowed your stepper motor to grind like that 😆 love the video!!

Man is it good to have you back making videos. I was beginning to think you had left us for good. You are a voice in the wilderness.

I would totally purchase the blank kit!

I think a kit like what you're talking about would be popular. I'd buy one.

If you search in KZfaq you can find that you can put Marlin on the lerdge board. You might be able to use the bl touch then. I would be very interested in seeing that in a later video.

Thanks for the vid! I have one in the mail, lurking youtube and your movie was suggested. About the parallel running rails for Y; it's possible to adjust the rails; they accommodate some room around the screws to have somewhat of a float during installation. This way you can perfectly align both the rails. If that's not enough, you can drill out the holes in the x carriage. You can also use some paper sheets (drenched in oil, if you like) as a spacer between the rail and the frame to flatten it out. That cooling works miracles! great work!

You should use 2mm lead leadscrew (or integrated leadscrew steppers are even better) instead of the anti backlash nut. Newer ones are shipped with the 2mm one. As you said, we are kinda beta testers for the company :)

Thank you for giving such a detailed review. I noticed you caught a ton of flack on the last video for comparing it to the ender series but I can definitely see what you mean about this printer. Yes it may be more expensive and have some flaws that will require more tinkering and upgrades, but I think what people fail to realize is that the end point you can achieve with this printer after upgrades and tinkering will definitely surpass the point you can get the ender 3. This is the first proper corexy printer that could be considered affordable and can offer far better stability, compactness and print speed capabilities. I love my ender 3, and I think it's an amazing printer for the price with a ton of community support and upgrade potential that will serve most people just fine, but if you want to take it further and have the time and money for the sapphire s then I agree it's the printer to get. Looking forward to seeing how this all turns out! Also, a review of the ender 5 would be awesome as they are finally adding something to the series with better kinematics despite using v wheels

Chinese 3D printers are the best advertisement for those looking at building a Voron 2.4.

Thanks, now I can try to apply it to my Sapphire-s printer!

This is the first video of yours I have watched. Instant subscribe. I really enjoyed how you walked through your fan design and why you made the choices you made. Really basic stuff but easy to forget, especially since I am just getting into cad and physical design

Nice design with the brackets for the BLtouch and the part cooling fan :-) Nice design of the fan duct :-) Fantastic job, Well done :-) Nice to see the australian direct/drive solution for the filament, wow :-)

I would 100 percent hit up a kit like that

You have been lucky... I have been buying e.g. PEI steel sheet from Two Trees, damaged after few usages (bubbles many places, some adhesion issues after some time also). PLA 210/60.

Barebones corexy kit? YES PLEASE!

I agree, I would definitely prefer a bare-bone kit, if the price drop is significant.

Awesome video man.

Creality is making it easy for beginners to enter the scene. Which is good for the whole 3d printing eco system

I like the barebones kit idea, perhaps on a printer like this with a 300x300x300 build volume.

Great video! I am really looking forward to seeing what you get in results from these mods. I went with the E3D V6 hotend and love it.

Where can I find your STL file for the bracket? your patreon?

Instead of selling kits without hotends, controller boards etc, it should be possible to select the features you want, like when buying a car.

TwoTrees are aware of the falling bed problem, and they send out the machine with 2mm pitch Z leadscrew, and the bed don't fall by itself anymore. i got my sapphire about 2 months ago shipped with a 2mm leadscrew.

I agree, a bare bone printer would be needed. I have a duet WiFi, hotend and BLTouch already on a old mechanic of a printer.

Yes. I would be interested in a bare bones kit.

Wow what a banger video! Great job! Especially your hotend/cooler mount is super sexy. Love it. One issue I had when designing an extruder mount for a regular E3D extruder was, that I created a lever that ended up being too great. Its kind of hard to explain, but the distance from the mounting points of the linear rail to the tip of the extruder created such a big lever, that I had huge issues with vibrations/resonances where the tip would scrape over some plastic, then start to vibrate up and down which would create more resistance during the next layer. This would get worse and worse until the x and y motors would start losing steps after just a couple of layers. My gut feeling says that you also might have those issues due to the lever youve created by mounting the hotend further to the front. Of course I'm hoping that thats not the case because it looks so neat. But just in case: I solved the issue by making the mount beefier.

I've had a Sapphire S for about two months now. Two upgrades any sapphire owner should look at are a 2mm leadscrew and a new hotend. Additionally I suspect your bltouch issue is related to the bltouch v3 issues people have been having.

You've got the right idea with barebones kits. All I ever want is the linear motion. Especially with this machine. I hope you can get this bug on their ear so companies start offering a bare bones kit. The stock electronics are always value engineered anyways

Just have to say, this hair style makes him look boss

I would LOVE to buy the barebones “kit” for this, a larger delta or even a 60% Sidewinder (oh, be still my beating heart!).

Unless you owned a gecko, you cannot say that.

If you put the bed fan behind your hotend, move BLTouch to side... that greatly improves viability of the nozzle when printing.

Eager to hear more about your two trees

I've got this printer back when it was the East3d saphire (East3d was Chay Chen's company) and I got the Not s version. That's without linear rails on top. But you have the steel rods for the XY motor from the bottom to the top, what I've done, is design a part which connects the bed and the steel rods together with an IGUS drylin RJ4JP-01-08. This can turn and move up and down, so your xy will still work great BUT, your Z is even more stable!

Great videos, greeting from Israel!

love the magic knock on the table. I would love to buy a bare bones kit, just the structure, the steppers, and I'll buy my own electronics! Great idea! Oh wait, now Prusa is going to be doing just that! (hahahaha). Not true. LulzBot makes their frames, very sturdy frames I might add. And Folger Tech allows you to buy just the extrusion and fiddly bits. Magnetic viewing film? WTF! Where do I get that? That's just cool! Damn that closed source! (Duet board upgrade, hmmm?) What am I, psychic? Need to update the video with the link to the Extruder upgrade. Wait, what? a zesty Nimble /and/ a mosquito hotend? you're crazy, Man! Crazy! Looking forward to the next set of upgrades.

Is there a 50cm printbed printer you would recommend? Creality has the monstrous s50 which is awesome but would there be a twotrees equivalent? I already have control boards and high quality hotends(dual) from a previous build but am halted by the small form factor of my current printer.. thanks for your videos and input:-)!

Nice video! You don't really want to print to the edge of a heated bed though. The temperature drops off at the edge.

Check your ending Gcode in Cura. When your print is done you probably have it set to disable steppers. That would be why your platform falls.

I would totally buy a barebones kit if the chassis were good quality.

I use the buildtak metal plate with my ender magnetic hot bed. works great and helped with the uneven aluminum plate on my ender 3

Love the design of your hot end parts fan, might be able to use it on my new hypercube.

Great video. Put the Patreon link in the blurb, Matt. I thought you'd taken your son off to the hills in your camper van. Sounds great. Anyway I've reinstated my Patreon sub now. I can't believe how people can send out kit with bent frames. Crazy. I won't be getting a Two Trees machine yet. The uprights are aluminium profile, for a start. If their machining is as good as Creality - and they are pretty thorough - the machine won't ever be accurate. So I've ordered a Wanhao D6, same size bed, in the hope it'll be an absolute brick of a machine. Fingers crossed.

I would love barebones kit

Glad to see your back with some good content. Was curious what you thought about zyltech down in Houston since you mentioned western companies. They sell a hypercube frame.

I will comment FOR SURE that I would ABSOLUTELY purchase a "bare-bones" frame/etc assembly kit without ANY electronics offering. I have scourer the internet and NOBODY offers this option. Everyone who knows more than 5 minutes about 3D printing immediately starts researching the who/what of the items they would need to replace the low-quality items in what we have to choose from. The bottom line is that we could pay GOOD money for a GOOD platform and then purchase the components we want to complete it. The liability of the seller drops to an all-time low and the user experience of the buyer goes through the roof. If a company doesn't do it quickly, as the 3D printing community grows, then you can rest and be assured that SOMEONE, even if it's one of us makers, will see it done before them. There is a "ZERO-LOSS" option to provide this type of offering with an AMAZING profit margin for the company that goes first. Let's see who gives the paying customers what they want..... :D **Peace** and **May all your prints be perfect**.

Great video! I would buy such a kit, without the cheap stuff. I would like only the motion system kit.

I enjoy watching your videos for the critical takes and introducing me to good new tech ideas especially US based. You seem to have a bit of a misconception about the Titan extruder and its tensioning arm - which is indeed made of plastic and running

my BLtouch does the same thing and I got the cr10s the main board is v2.1 it goes in the middle of the heat bed and goes down and there goes the knocking sound what causing that??

Nice video! You just got a new subscriber

Can you make a video on how you went about designing this hot end mount/duct? I bought a bmg-m non mirrored and a mosquito and of course there are not any mounts for this onto an ender3. So im doing it myself which is def harder than I thought. I enjoy the challenge but I thought it would be cool to see how you would go about it.

There are "western" 3D Printer-Kits -> "BLV MGN CUBE" "CoreXY Frame" "Voron 2.1" .....

yes, i would prefer a bare bones kit and purchasing some of the key parts myself.

Would love if you’d make a video explaining and showing how to setup the Ender 3 with the bltouch

First, I have to say that I learn a lot from watching your reviews, no doubt. You really understand the issues up and down, and that's rare. Your reviews make others seem like Micky Mouse in comparison, nothing against Disney...Your video on emissions/microparticles from FDM vs SLA was awesome. There is no other KZfaqr creating content like you do. Stephan is pretty awesome as well, but he has his niche and its different than what you do. Regarding this video, a couple of things come to mind: 1) Yes, it would be fun to tinker and endlessly fix my printer, but I don't have so much time for that. I would like a machine to arrive working, consistently without spending a fortune for a Raise, Fusion, Aleph, or Makergear. How about a video on non-chinese Prusia alternatives? unless there really are none, and Prusia really is the best? What about the Pulse from Matterhackers? You've mostly scared me away from buying a Chinese printer. 2) what about FolgerTech or Pulse XE from Matterhackers? 3) if there are no good alternatives, what about you buying the kit from China and then completing the kit with top-grade components and selling them? 4) and if not, then how about building one, and showing us how so we can use your build as a template to build our own? again, I would rather buy it built, maybe put a kit together but not have to develop the printer for the company... 5) If you've ever used a MarkForged, that's really the best I've ever seen. I've sent many parts to be build on the Markforged Mark 2, and the results were phenomenal. That machine is so rigid, and its not a speed demon, so the quality is fantastic. Plus their Onyx is awesome, but I believe NylonX is even better, but on the printer side, nothing seems to compare to the precision and Rigidity of the Markforged. Better than the Fusion, better than Sigma, than Raise, although the Raise was pretty good as well. I'd like coreXY with direct drive to handle flexible, but also one that can get hot enough to do Nylon, PC, NylonX, as well. Dual-head would be great to use washable PVA for a better surface finish, but not a deal-breaker. Ideally it would be enclosed with ability to exhaust it so I don't die from lung disease in 5 years...HEPA filter? ok that helps. not all axes need to be 300mm, but the X or Y should be so I can get the occasional larger print done in one build. Thoughts?

Like this video. I like the comment you made for bare bone frame purchase from China. I was thinking about it before. Good stuff.

I would suggest, according to the magnetic pattern of the bed being the way you showed, that you actually don't need to go trough the hassle of cutting it out from the center. The magnetic layout will be the same regardless. This does not apply for let say the BuildTak flexplate system though. Just a thought! 🤷‍♂️

Hi Matthew, another great video! I bought the Sapphire S four weeks ago, too ... I'm struggeling with some problems with the mainboard, I think ... some strange things happened while printing ... I printed a spiderman head from thingiverse ... at about 25% the print head starts driving around (it seems that the head drove an 8), then it continues printing ... at 50% the same ... but now he fell on pause mode and the bed lower about 5 cm, but it don't fell .. I heared the motor when it was lowered. I pressed resume ... and the printer resumed ... in the air .. print gone ... (firmware version 3.0.1) ... with the new 3.0.2 this problem should not appear ... But I think I will buy a duet board for the printer ... maybe the maestro again ... I'm glad to see, that you plan in the same direction ... ok with the wifi ... good luck with it. But overall, a great printer ...

I might be interested but at that point does it make sense? I mean you might as well go all out and source the rest of the parts. I'm wondering if you locate the belts like that if it wont cause it to twist.

Try sending M84 S0 to avoid the stepper shutting down

Did you add the GCode for initializing the BLTouch to your Gcode? the fact that it cycles when you boot up makes it seem like it should work.

Nice thanks. Could you share the mosquito mount rack? Would be nice.

That would be awesome. Getting excellent mechanics and then adding the important stuff to suit you needs. For example, I care about high temp filaments so need AMHE. don’t care about quality just speed so a meaty dual drive capricorn bowden extruder will be awesome. I need to pump out parts as fast a s possible. So a bl touch and glass bed is preferable since it reduces prep time. And finally I want an enclosure so a cubical frame will help. Always find myself wasting money on things I wish I got of the box

I would love a bare-bones kit that’s why I purchased a ender 3 and 5 first thing I did was pull out the main board 8 bit really? where are we in the 1970’s?

Love the videos. Very informative. This TwoTrees Sapphire looks like a great quality budget coreXY I've been waiting for. Curious how loud it is since you've swapped to the Duet board? I would love to see some quality pictures of a finished print as well. Have you heard of the voron corexy project or the rail core?

Have you made any more upgrades? I just assembled my Sapphire S2 yesterday. I’m a little disappointed by the closed source board. Overall, I’m very impressed by the printer. Fortunately, I watched this video at some point, since my top plate was bent as well!! Anyway, thanks for a great video, you do a great job.

I'd love barebones kits, or just competitive precision part kits. Like voron kits that are actual to spec

Is that main board compatible with the two trees sp-3 and if yes do you have a link thank you

I wish prusa makes a CoreXY printer

I'd definitely be in to buy a core xy bare bones kit like this.

Regarding the motor hold at idle, did you try "M84 S0"? This command is supposed to disable the motor hold idle timeout. But I think it will affect all motors, not just Z.

I'm trying to decide between two trees and tronxy...just waiting for your bltouch upgrade video 😁

Thanks for the video! Your discussion of Western parts and Eastern kits got me to thinking about the E3D and the Micro Swiss HotEnds. I haven't seen a video or an article where someone did a real comparison and tried them out side-by-side. Do you think that would be a good topic for you?

whats the price point on this? if it were to cost exactly the same as the Ender 5, and you could only get one... which would you get? im slightly uncomfortable not being able to access firmware... but as highly as you speak im going to give one of these a shot. the tornado IS a decent machine imho...

With that new light hot end assembly, you should have tested printing at REALLY high speeds, before and after

hi did you already checked the sapphire plus? from wat you say in your video seem like the best printer for high temp enclosure . and whit a size where core xy start to make sense

Hi. How much improvement do you get by using the flexible shaft? You will have to add some mass (gear box) to the hot end.

I have issues with the original hot end. I get heat creep causing the filament to swell and get stuck blocking extrusion. Its enough if the printing is paused for 10-20s and then it gets stuck... Is it supposed to be this sensitive?

Have you tested the cheaper mosquito version from mellow?

I was quite surprised with the hotend that came with my tronxy xy3.

i would buy it for the mechanicals... and then probably swap contol board

I haven’t seen any western printer manufacturer selling a kit without hotend. They are companies making profit of their products, why should Chinese companies just give up and provide only cheap frames? And how is this any how related to nationality?

Fantastic video! I'm looking at getting a second printer and your video is making me lean heavily towards as Sapphire plus! But one question, one REALLY important question.... You never told us where to install the lolley pops!?!? Hahaha!!

May you provide a link to Chuck's video on magnetic beds. I have lots of 3d channels collected but don't know of any chuck yet :(

Take a look at the kis-3d S235 a core frame without electronics and alot of upgrade parts for the pro and plus

I have been watching a lot of your video's and you seem super knowledgeable on all the aspects of design and mechanics of 3D printers, and all the components etc. Just wondering why you have not designed and built your own? Pick out extruded aluminum fasteners, boards, nozzle, plate, extrudes etc. I think you could do a great job. I know the cost would be high for a one off but even just putting together a list of all the parts you think would be the best bang for buck to see cost and maybe even build it if cost was not to bad. Could make for a unique and interesting series of videos. Just a thought for a video series I would love to see. Anyway keep up the great work.

I think I see the 2 mm tap under the bigger taps in the same box. A bit funny.

Any updates on this build?

What PC are you using?

I would buy the bare bone kit, to add my personal control board, extruder, and hot end.

Great video. I have a stock Sapphire S and have been getting good parts off it. What improvement is expected with the Moquito? Any chance of getting the models of the mounting support you created?

I would buy that kit

I can't help but notice the Y belts aren't parallel. Have you tried any large (in XY) calibraton prints?

There are other 32bit boards out there. Re-Arm and SKR v1.3. But I'm sure you know that already. 😀

You might want to fix the belt layout errors if you like accurate, undistorted prints...

Totally agree with you.

TriangleLab has a MKS3 Clone without a Controll Board and the Filament Sensor

How about using an skr board? They are fully open source and got onboard support for tmc2208 and 2130. The pro v1.1 has some separated power Inputs for the board itself, the Fans, steppers and heating parts. And they are much cheaper and always on stock

Awesome video, really enjoyed it! As you care a lot about stealing designs, you might want to avoid the zesty nimble. I am using the competition (Flex3Drive) and the seller told me, Zesty basicly stole their whole design.