Thank you very much! :3 yeah man that's absolutely another good way to go about going to USB-C while keeping things closer to OEM - awesome stuff!

Glad you loved the video - thank you! Have fun with the PS1, that should be fun one to do! I typically get linear regulators since they generate less electrical noise than a switching one, and I'll prefer to step down voltage than stepping up. If I step up, then I'd look towards a switching one to make a buck converter if a premade one isn't already available. When I look for regulators I make sure to know what I need for output voltage and current first and work backwards to see what it needs backwards for input voltage. With the USB-C adapters I'll step down from what I supply out of it and make sure that the load of the regular will match or exceed the current needed by the end circuit. There's probably better ways to decide what to choose, but that's how I go about things. Got the FAT PS2 PSU on the back burner because USB-C max current is 5A and the OEM PSU is rated for 7A. Someday I'll work it out to fit the retrogem inside it lol

can't believe I let that slip - sorry about that 😅 to answer your question, yes. setting the module at 12v with wall adapter will work as the current from it is around the tolerance where no problems are expected. There's a 40W version of the wall adapter I used that is over spec for supplies current which will just fine too. got no issues with my GC so far with the power mod with the HDMI and KunaiGC installed in it for additional loads.

no prob, we all start somewhere! I looked up the OEM psu for the slim and the specs seem to be 8.5V at 5.65A. From what you described it may be that either there isn't enough current being supplied or a fuse / fuses may be blown. If current isn't an issue then it could be a blown fuse somewhere on the board. I did a little searching and seems it happens with the slim sometimes. either way it be worth checking to the fuses with a multimeter to see if any are blown. as for fixing any that are blown it'd be either replacing it with one of the same or bridge it across (take away the safety against power issues but will power to flow through). I recommend replacing with one of the same. I found this layout for a SCHP-7XXXX series guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/45dC2XVQXJhKHbEn.full there should be diagrams showing fuse locations for your model I hope this helps!

i'll check it out. The ps2 starts fine with normal cable so i dont think fuse is blown@@PedroPlatinumGaming

Links to all of the STLs I made are available in the description.

@@PedroPlatinumGamingSweet! Thanks so much!

@@ultimategamer706 you're welcome! 😄

Hiya Sean, sure thing - I can help ya with that! I've been looking around other places as some of what I've used before have been swapped out or not for sale which stinks.

@@PedroPlatinumGaming top guy, it’s my understanding I need a 12v USB C pd trigger and a 12V to 3.3V buck converter, could you advise on the gauge of the wire required!

@@seanhousley You'll only need the 3.3v buck converter once you have the 12 USB-C PD adapter. The buck converter will get its power from the USB-C adapter, and the N64 board will have a connection to the 12v on the adapter, the 3.3v from the buck converter, and ground from either parts. The buck converter will need to supply up to 3A where the 12v line up to 1A to meet the specs so the USB-C adapter should be able to handle a supply of 4A.

Just finished looking around and ooof some descriptions were a little confusing with the stock picks lol Anywho, I think I got ya covered now! I'll put the ASIN numbers for ya For the Trigger modules First choice: B0CM8KRTQK Second choice: B09XF9J2PP For step down converters First choice: B07X31WR68 Second choice: B07TTH6C3J My first choices on each have easier labeling. The port on the trigger module looks almost flush with the board so ya may want to dremel off some of it if ya print something and only want the oval to come through - small cosmetic thing. the second one is one I saw a ton of and looks like it'll be fine without shorting the jumper. All of the same ones were not described well so I would 100% test with a multimeter before and after shorting just to be sure what it's doing. I dig how simple the first buck convert is without the need to cut through a trace before shorting the pads to get the voltage you need. The second is one I'm most closely using with the internal PSU I made for my N64. It works well, but I'm not a big fan of the design. Absolutely MUST cut the trace under the board for the ADJ. For whatever reason on ones I got the back silk screening is actually tinned copper - bad design; so you need to be careful when shorting the jumpers so it doesn't bridge onto the label. The pics show proper silkscreens so should be okay, but wanted to let ya know just in case. Hope this helps!

@@PedroPlatinumGaming perfect mate. Thanks for your help, really enjoying your videos. You seem very knowledgeable. I’d love to see a built in wireless controller mod, using the blue retro controller kit but with the receivers built into the console. I believe it’s been attempted with ESP32’s but things start dropping out after 2 controllers connected!

Interesting, what's the max output voltage from the wall adapter rated at? I would look at that first and then what you're using for an adapter. If the wall adapter max is 5v, then you'll only get up to 5v. If the wall adapter can supply 12v, then I'd put a multimeter to the USB adapter you're using before stepping down to the 3.3v.

Thanks for replying. I scraped the two boards and made a new one and it took care of the issue. I think one of them may have been defective. Just wired it up to the n64 and it works great. Thanks for the video!

You're welcome. Glad you were able to fix the problem, and everything's working well! :D

I can try! Which file is giving you an issue?

@@PedroPlatinumGaming I’m trying to order the GameCube usb c 3d mount but for some reason xometry says to separate object something like that can u put it a form to where it’s easier to download it then order it online sorry idk much about 3d printing I’m new to that so kinda confused

@@PedroPlatinumGaminglike for example is it as simple as uploading the stl to a 3d printing website or do I have to edit something

Okay, I see. The STL had 2 models in it which the site doesn't like. I just re-rendered and separated them in a zip file; updated the link in the description for you to make it easier. it's a non-issue as a 3d printer will print it regardless, it's just a thing with that site I suppose. I don't use 3rd party sites to print my models as I have a printer. If you get other STLs that have multiple models in them, it's easy to edit them i n3d modeling software that can import and export STLs. 3D printing is pretty fun when ya start getting into it and then hold the thing you designed in your hand. It just takes a little practice with design and then later trial and error with filaments or resin depending what you choose to do. Took me a while to figure it out when I first started. I'd like to revisit this mod at some point and design my own PCB to make it cleaner and 100% no-cut. Hope this helps!

@@PedroPlatinumGaminghey sorry for the late reply thanks man I really appreciate it!