7th of 5 t wdwd4

Awesome! I'm glad it helped you. You might try turning on the closed captions, if you need it translated into Spanish. You hit the little CC button down at the bottom, and then click on the gear icon, and select "auto translate" in the subtitle menu. I used this just the other day on a video that was originally done in Russian, and it was super helpful.

Bill Denton Thanks, that is a good idea!

Glad to hear it!

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks, Gary! My horribly crummy day is made brighter knowing it helped you out.

As I recall, you need the following: 1. 8, 10, 12, 14, 19, 24 and 27mm sockets 2. Impact gun or monster breaker bar 3. Punch and hammer 4. 5mm hex bit or allen key 5. angle grinder 6. chain breaker tool 7. rear swingarm stand 8. Whatever rear wheel alignment tool you prefer. 9. A friend

It's a pretty easy job if you have the right tools. The only truly special tool you need is the chain breaker. The change interval varies a lot from bike to bike, depending primarily on how well the chain got maintained, and where it got ridden. For a normal roadgoing bike that gets cleaned and lubed well, 10-20K miles is pretty common.

Amazon, I think. Look for “motion pro chain alignment tool.”

I don't think this Versys had a center stand, but if yours does, then yes, it should work fine. You just need to get the bike's weight off the rear wheel, so you can remove it. Generally speaking, you don't clean or just grease wheel bearings. If they've gotten contaminated with FOD, they should be replaced. The bearings are designed as replaceable cartridges for this reason. If you have the wheel out, it's not especially difficult to do, although there is a special tool you need to drive them out of the wheel. I wouldn't go using anti-seize on fasteners that are not meant to have it applied. I don't recall the service manual specifying it for any of the fasteners I had to touch here. Especially in cases where the fastener holds on something safety-critical, the torque spec is important, and it won't be accurate if you apply anything to the threads that isn't called out in the manual. The Versys is a great bike. It's simple and easy to maintain, but not terribly exciting. The inverted forks are kind of a pain to service in comparison to conventional forks, so if ease of maintenance is big thing for you, maybe consider the Ninja 650 or the new naked version they came out with recently, which have conventional forks. The Versys service manual exists in a PDF form on the internet, FYI. I can't share it here, but I bet you'll find it with a little sleuthing.

The torque values are all listed in the service manual, which can be found with a bit of Googling. If you're referring to the 8mm bolts that hold the alternator ("stator") cover on, on the left side of the bike, the torque spec is 87 in-lbs, which is about 6.5 ft-lbs. I like to refer to that as "snug, one ugh," and I don't usually bother with using a torque wrench on them. If you really mean the timing inspection cover cap, on the right side, which is used to access the nose of the crankshaft, you just use a coin or large washer to put it back on hand tight.

littlefrank90 the rivet type master links are removed by grinding off the heads of the rivets with an angle grinder or Dremel. I made a video with my SV650 where I demonstrated this.

The measurement can be tricky to do correctly; If you're not seeing any odd behaviors, I'd just leave it.

@@AaronAverett thank you!

Technically yes, but I like to do it this way, as it's way easier to do, and the difference isn't very big unless you're working on a bike with huge suspension travel, like a dirt bike or something.