Using Epoxy Resin to Fill Cracks and Gaps in Wood

Using Epoxy Resin to Fill Cracks and Gaps in Wood - Complete Tips and Techniques

Рет қаралды 132,455

2 жыл бұрын

Complete technique and details to fill in gaps, cracks and checks in your wood stock with epoxy resin. Get amazing results that allow you to use wood that seem broken or cracked beyond anything usable. This video shows all the steps and tips for perfect results.

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@amospeterson3251 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Doug, pretty informative and easy for me to do! Thanks again AmosP

@danmartinguit Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much from Canada !

@HRConsultant_Jeff 10 ай бұрын

Love that the Newspaper says Meditation classes keep stress free amid Pandemic. I find woodworking to be my Zen.

@TheKingOfTheBrocean 4 ай бұрын

My wife and I were talking about meditation. I realized the same thing the other day. Even sanding, such a mundane annoying task but I've slowly learned to love it. The only time my mind is clear.

@TotalBoat 2 жыл бұрын

Great tips! This came out awesome!

@jkbaer3086 Жыл бұрын

I’ve been watching a few vids about epoxy lately and this one’s is by far the best I’ve seen. Thanks so much for sharing.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

JK, thanks for the extremely kind words. I hope the video was helpful for you.

@sidcrane 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Doug, excellent video. Just what I needed.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

So glad it was helpful for you!

@uthi2paeNgoophoo1Riegeekuj2uGa Жыл бұрын

Looks great! Thanks for the tips & tricks :)

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Thanks so much.

@jackwalfoort8419 4 ай бұрын

Great tip about the nonsense grout to tint. I wrecked a maple table top with transtint dye. It will STAIN the wood. Gonna try the grout.

@dougpisik 4 ай бұрын

Glad to help. Hope it works well for you.

@stephenthompson6395 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the excellent demo of filling cracks.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Thanks, and you are welcome! I hope you found it helpful.

@Ian_Hay Жыл бұрын

Just a quick note of thanks for the tip re using non sanded grout to tint the epoxy in void filling. I just finished a project and used the same grout, based on this video’s recommendation. Worked fantastic, and now I have about 2 lifetime’s supply of black epoxy tint at about 1/50th of the price of regular tint powder or TransTint dye. Thanks.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

I'm so glad you could use this info. I know what you mean about the amount of grout. I've barely made a dent in the box I bought years ago.

@pattycakes456 Жыл бұрын

Where did you get your grout? Both Amazon and home depot don't list black as an option but have charcoal.

@Ian_Hay Жыл бұрын

@@pattycakes456 Both Doug and I were using the ‘charcoal’ colour. There is no ‘black’ in that brand, that I could find. The charcoal grout is, I would say, ‘very nearly black’ once immersed in the epoxy. It’s not a true jet black - more of a very very nearly black dark grey - but it’s ‘black enough’ for this purpose.

@pattycakes456 Жыл бұрын

@@Ian_Hay Thank you, I'll give the charcoal a try.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

@@pattycakes456 I did use “Charcoal.” Thanks for asking.

@user-gb6re9eg3i 5 ай бұрын

VERY INFORMATIVE!!!

@dougpisik 5 ай бұрын

Thank you.

@shanszu7082 8 ай бұрын

Great Video!

@dougpisik 8 ай бұрын

Thanks!

@jfinaz99 2 жыл бұрын

Very well presented and explained, thanks for sharing.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much. Glad you got something out of it.

@noname6568 Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@jpiv3177 2 жыл бұрын

Great video. I have some pecan slabs with lots of checking. I havent done epoxy before. This was ery useful. Thank you

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

I'm so glad this was helpful. I'm sure your slabs will turn out amazing. Pecan has great character.

@brianm2152 4 ай бұрын

I like the tip of using the un sanded grout for color. I guess since grout uses water to cure then mixing with the epoxy kind of seals it from moisture and probably if any moisture does get to it from humidity or whatever then it just cures also? Just trying to think the chemistry through some and avoid any long term problems from something maybe even attracting moisture.

@dougpisik 4 ай бұрын

Thanks for the comments and question. I haven't had any issues with the grout. It's really just a powdered pigment that doesn't dissolve. I agree that since it's coated and soaked in epoxy, it doesn't absorb liquid. That said, I haven't tried it for outdoor projects, but I feel confident that it should work just fine.

@perspolis1818 3 ай бұрын

Amazing video

@dougpisik 3 ай бұрын

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

@panchobrown7562 4 ай бұрын

Hello Doug, Thank you so much for the demonstration and explanation. I have some Red Oak and need to fill a crack that is about 1/4" at its widest. Would like to use the full piece for a project and with your video I will try my first Totalboat epoxy repair. I'm not interested and do not like river tables so I have always dismissed deep pour epoxy products. With that said, I would like to salvage a beautiful piece of Red Oak by filling a crack and your video will help me accomplish this. Thanks buddy!!

@dougpisik 4 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful! Sounds like a great project.

@stevebanta7235 2 жыл бұрын

Great video and love the use of non-sanded grout to tint!

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I forgot where I learned the grout trick, but it works great.

@stevebanta7235 2 жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik I'll be putting it to use on my current project.

@BR0JASON 2 жыл бұрын

Tip from experience: When you're using tape to secure the back side of cracks, holes, etc., for larger epoxy pours than Doug shows in the video, MAKE SURE the back is supported. Epoxy is heavy, and the tape can only take so much before it starts bulging and leaking. Blue tape, frog tape, Tyvek tape, doesn't matter...support the bottom with something flat and hard on larger pours.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Great tip, Jason. My project was flat on the table, but it the crack was unsupported it would have been a problem. Thanks for mentioning this.

@vegasace 2 жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik Is there a way to fix it once it leaks through the tape. I didn't support, so every deep pour leaked. so heating and removing all the epoxy i can, and plan to repour. Hope this works as i don't want to loose the project.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

@@vegasace If I understand your question, it sounds like the epoxy poured out the bottom and left a bad mess to clean up. I wouldn't remove any of the epoxy that is in the crack. I also wouldn't heat the epoxy that is on the surface. Instead, I'd recommend using a heavy grit sandpaper to sand down the mess from the bottom. You can then re-tape it and ensure it's secure. Then you can repour more black epoxy into the crack to finish filling the gap. Good luck with it. Sorry you had a problem. I know what a mess leaked epoxy can be.

@vegasace 2 жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik Thank you so much, i just got a heat gun and was about to go down that road...saved me! Appreciate the advice and the nice words..its all about learning so still very excited..messes we can clean! Ill keep you posted.

@vegasace Жыл бұрын

@ doug pisik - Took me awhile to finish, but wanted to thank you. Table turned out great, thanks to all your help. Would post a pic here if it would let me, but very happy with the piece!

@dazzanw5067 2 жыл бұрын

Great video, I liked how it was to the point, no BS. A skilled craftsman/carpenter/wood worker can tell a complete novice from a skilled worker. For some reason this day in age, every DIY Dave decides to make a video, blabbing his mouth off, about something he has done 2 times, its frustrating to say the least! Subbed to the channel, Thank You!

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

@Dazzanw, thanks so much. Your feedback means a lot and is greatly appreciated.

@danmartinguit Жыл бұрын

Totally agree !!!

@MechmanGetrieb 11 ай бұрын

Great Idea using non sanded grout. I´ll give it a try. Right now I always have to do two steps when filling in crack´s. One coat of clear resin followed by one with black dye. As you say if you use black dye epoxy right away it leaves a Gray shadow in the wood.

@jerryprovencher2047 Жыл бұрын

Really well done and I cant wait to try the grout trick,never saw that before. Thanks for sharing!

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Glad you got something out of it. Let me know how it works for you.

@philnolan7193 Жыл бұрын

Great video, it is good to hear all the details of the process. What would you do with those pieces of timber ultimately?

@dougpisik 11 ай бұрын

Smaller pieces like they used in this video are sliced and used as artistic box sides. Larger pieces can be used for furniture.

@amydemott3673 5 ай бұрын

Nice video! Thank you for the tips! I’ve never experimented with epoxy before. I’m looking to fill small worn holes and knots in a charcuterie board. Is this method food safe?

@dougpisik 5 ай бұрын

Many people use epoxy on serving boards and tables, but I can’t confirm 100% food safe. Best to contact your epoxy manufacturer. My understanding is that once the epoxy is FULLY cured (about a month), there are no concerns serving cold food on it. I personally would avoid putting hot food directly on the epoxy.

@andre1987eph 2 жыл бұрын

Clever

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, Andre.

@randomrebuilds Жыл бұрын

Great video. What would you suggest for pre-finished hardwood floor planks as I'm building a table out of leftover pieces and a few have some knot openings no more than 1/4". Would a flat chisel be ideal for cleaning up those little spots?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

If feasible, I would mask over the area to be filled and cut out an opening for the hole. This will prevent the epoxy from getting on the finish. If a hole is about an 1/8th of an inch or less, you can fill the spot with black CA glue instead of epoxy. As for smoothing the surface, a chisel usually won’t work on brittle materials like epoxy. Since the holes are small, I’d recommend trying to just fill the holes up to the top without going over. Hopefully you won’t have to do any touch up, but if you do, then I’d recommend sanding and polishing the patch with the masking tape in place to protect the wood finish. Alternatively to all of this is to just use a wood putty since the holes are small. That might be your best bet. Hope this helps.

@RobMoreland 2 жыл бұрын

It's good to know that the epoxy was hard enough to be sanded or planed after a single night of curing. The documentation for the Total Boat 2:1 with slow hardener recommends 5 days of curing, so out of an abundance of caution, that's how long I've been waiting before sanding off the excess.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Rob, great advice and input. It's true that it's better to wait before sanding. I have found that for cracks and smaller pours overnight often works for me, but it could be that the addition of the grout makes the epoxy cure harder. In addition, my shop is warm. That said, waiting is safer, and ensuring the work is not curing in an unheated room (like a garage shop in winter) is also helpful.

@Majjie24 Жыл бұрын

I know this video is almost a year old now, but so far you have given me a lot of information. I'm sorry this is a bit of a story. So hope you don't mind sharing your experience and wisdom? Which I'm hoping will help me with a Kitchen island bench I've been working on. It's a 3mt long slab of river red gum *(Australia here) live edge both side 900mm to 1mt wide. I hired two big fellas to help me move it into place and one fella picked it up through the area I'd cut out for the kitchen sink. Leading to a massive crack.. Not having worked with RESIN before I hired a couple that had shown me some of their amazing work to repair the crack... after a dozen trips back and forwards to my home to REPAIR and fill with RESING.. I ended up with more Resin on my shed floor than in the crack... Over two years later still sitting taking up the best part of my shed. *(due to having covid and not recovering very well) I have since gotten my mojo back and trying to fix up both lots of people I had hired. I have unboxed the slab they had attached to a large sheet of melamine, only to discover more resin had run through the crack under the slab.. WHAT a mess, one good thing it is the under side. I only have me, so if I need extra help I have to pay folks.. I am now hoping to sand all the excess resin off the underside, but feel a bit daunted about the process. A big part of the underside crack is still not filled. I would like to use Resin to repair it but I haven't a clue which brand they used in the 1st place. I am wondering if you would mind sharing more of your knowledge? I have a few questions. 1) Can I use another type of Resin to fill over what was initially used or will it clash? 2) you mentioned briefly about sanding back mistakes with excessive resin and how to sand or plain it back. Would it be ok for me to use a thick sand paper and work my way back to a finer grade? or should I use a fine paper and just be persistent? Thank you for letting me pick your brains. I would add pictures if I could.. Kind regards

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Jenn, sorry about your challenges. It's hard to give advice without seeing the project; however, I'll do my best to help out. Most important is to ensure the bottom of the crack is now completely sealed so you don't end up with more resin on the shed floor. It the crack isn't too wide, using wide blue masking tape has worked well for me. I'd recommend using several overlapping strips of wide tape, and then screwing a wide wood board over the tape. This will ensure the tape doesn't come off, and since it's the bottom of the slab nobody will see the screw holes when you take the wood board off. Note that if the wood isn't flat on the bottom the wood board might not hold the tape in place. If this is the case, put a layer of thin foam rubber or folded-over rags flat over the tape before screwing in the wood board to ensure the tape is pressed firmly in place. As for sanding, use coarse sandpaper first to remove all the excess resin and then work up to the finer grits. Try to get into the crack and scuff the existing resin with fine sandpaper before pouring any more. This will help the new resin adhere to the old. You don't have to use the same brand as resin that was used before, but know that you will possibly see a variation in clarity where the old and new resin meet. Hopefully it will be a minor imporfection that most won't notice. I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes. Also, I'm glad you're feeling better.

@jarkkolaiho462 8 ай бұрын

Hi Doug, great video! I recently had my first foray into filling very small cracks on a knot, but used black dye and had a lot of color bleed. The grout tip is invaluable. However, I also had an issue where the wood (birch) just absorbed every bit of epoxy I threw at it. There was no leakage, I just had to stop adding more because the color bleeding alongside the absorption got too extreme. My hardener was also too slow (three-day stuff), but even within one overnight period the absorption rate was basically 100%. Maybe should have used more viscous stuff to prevent it. What viscosity of epoxy would you recommend for crack filling applications, and what is your preferred hardener ”speed” there?

@dougpisik 8 ай бұрын

Thanks for the comment and kind words. As for the epoxy, I use what would be considered a medium viscosity. That said, some woods are just very porous. To avoid excessive absorption or color bleeding, a sealcoat of clear epoxy should be used first...just enough to coat the exposed surface of the wood in the crack spread around with a small disposable brush or thin piece of wood. Let it cure overnight, and then pour in the colored resin. If you do this, it's highly unlikely you'll have an absorption issue.

@lounar482 2 жыл бұрын

Turned out great. Surprised the masking tape stopped bleed through on the backside. Is there a difference to the "blue" version of tape that helps it do this?

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. If the wood has been planed flat and smooth, then the tape works great. I make sure it's rubbed into place and that the wood is placed on a flat surface before pouring in the epoxy. I like the blue painter's tape because it peals off easier, is designed to create a seal, and doesn't tend to stick to the epoxy. Note that if the wood is rough or has uneven surface, then the tape might not work very well.

@marcuspoe9353 2 жыл бұрын

very helpful, new to this so it was what i needed to see, dont know if you`ll see this but would you ever use planer or power hand planer if there is still silicon on the wood, will it gum up my blades? i build waterfalls so wood workin is a bit new for me. thanks

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Marcus. thanks for the comment. If the epoxy is fully cured, then it will not gum up your blades. Be sure to take light passes so it doesn't chip out. Regarding silicon, I didn't use any in this video, but I have used silicon sealant at times to ensure epoxy doesn't flow where I don't want it to flow. Efforts should be taken to remove it all before planing it. Minute residue or amounts shouldn't be a problem, but otherwise it can gum up blades.

@marcuspoe9353 2 жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik yep i was afraid it might, not worried bout the epoxy, but just didnt like the thought of silicon, thank ya doug for your time.

@davidgraber4663 10 ай бұрын

Great & helpful video, Doug. I have a slab table that will be outdoors with some cracks and defects to fill. Your video inspires this first timer here. Question: is there any problem with using a varnish on the slab where there are sizable areas of epoxy on the surface ? Can I expect any issues with the interface between the wood & epoxy (ie:shrinkage, cracking, etc) in an outdoor application? Thanks.

@dougpisik 10 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching the video. For an outdoor project, a few things to keep in mind. All wood will move, so even though the epoxy will hold a crack together, there is still a chance that a crack will widen or another will form. I’d recommend applying the epoxy in the winter when it’s less humid. There will be less chance of a crack than if you fill the cracks when it’s dry. Epoxy will yellow in sunlight. Be sure to not use a light dye or clear epoxy. Using a dark coloring like I did eliminated the yellowing issue. Don’t sand the epoxy to a gloss finish or the varnish won’t hold. There always a chance it will peel off (especially in the sun), but a rougher finish on the epoxy will minimize the risk. Be sure to use an exterior finish. They make outdoor oil-based finishes that won’t peel but have to be reapplied every year. I’d recommend one, but I don’t have experience with them. Hope this helps.

@davidgraber4663 7 ай бұрын

Hi Doug - update on my project: I followed your lead and advice. I now have my outdoor slab table looking amazing with epoxy filling some deep and a couple of wide fissures and cracks in the black color, using the non-sanded grout. However....must I give up on having the beautifully clear areas of epoxy, given the need to prepare for varnish ? Even the very fine sandpaper leaves a rough, scratchy, opaque appearance. I did find a varnish that should fit my needs from Total Boat. @@dougpisik

@dougpisik 7 ай бұрын

@@davidgraber4663Glad your project is going well. A gloss varnish over a lightly scuffed epoxy should remove the scuff marks. You may want to create a test piece to be sure.

@sandrawilliams6860 Ай бұрын

A (probably silly) question... Is there ANY WAY to use epoxy resin like this to fill largish cracks in a tablebtop that is already finished/stained (finished ~9 years ago) without sanding it all down first?

@susanlushing638 Жыл бұрын

Great demo. But what do u make out of those pieces?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Glad you asked, Susan. Smaller repaired pieces like shown in this video I use for creating art boxes. Longer boards are used for furniture like table tops. I have used this technique to fill in the splits in logs and then turned them on my lathe to make bowls and vessels. In addition to cracks, this technique is used to fill in voids and knot holes. All these repairs look like natural accents, and if you decide to use colored dyes instead of black the repairs can become rather artful.

@TB-su4bz 3 ай бұрын

Great video mate. I've seen another video with a torch gun but prefer not to. What are your thoughts?

@dougpisik 3 ай бұрын

If you're referring to using a torch to remove bubbles, it can help remove surface bubbles but not any that remain below the surface. Since I recommend overfilling the gaps, there really isn't much of a need to remove surface bubbles since they will be sanded away after the resin cures.

@bucklane762 25 күн бұрын

Can u use epoxy in a spoon

@glennryzebol4472 2 жыл бұрын

Does no one use west system epoxy anymore?? I`m curious to know why. Nice vid. This is precisely how i also use epoxy and didn`t know about using grout powder as a pigment. Also, you said "I`m gonna go ahead" like... lots and lots of times lol. Thanks for posting. Cheers

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Glenn, thanks for the comments. I'm gonna go ahead and let you know that I created this video for a woodworker's guild presentation that was sponsored by Total Boat. I have used West in the past and was happy with it, but Total Boat has sent me sample product and I have found that it works at least as well as the West Systems. I appreciate the comment about "I'm gonna..." I'll be on the lookout for that in future videos. Glad you enjoyed the vid.

@wsmccull Жыл бұрын

We’ll, I’m going to go ahead and like your reply. And I’m fixing to try out the grout tip. 😊

@lindajohn58 8 ай бұрын

How long did you wait before you ran the work through the planer? You said ‘the next morning’ when you took off the paint, but I thought that sanding had to wait for full curing … 5 - 7 days?

@dougpisik 7 ай бұрын

You usually want to wait a few days depending on the epoxy used. If you sand epoxy before it's fully cured it will gunk up your sandpaper and not sand well. If you use a planer on very hard epoxy, you run the risk of chip-out. Although not really planned, by only waiting a day the epoxy was hard, but less likely to chip...so running it through the planer worked out just fine. That said, it is better to wait a few days, and if you use a planer, take multiple passes with very thin shavings. Hope this helps.

@nilamadsen5552 Жыл бұрын

thanks for the video. Question. I am working on a 5 ft by approx 1 ft oak board....very very dry ...with lots of cracks. That was the appeal. But wow..when pouring epoxy today ( i am new at this but watched so many videos my head is swimming) it just soaked right into the wood....leaving the crack still open...I waited..then poured again....thinking ok now that it is coated and a bit tacky the next pour will fill the crack...noo. A couple of the cracks did finally fill in...i will probably have to top them off a bit...I waited the last time until the epoxy started to firm up a bit..a lot...SO...i decided perhaps I needed to "seal coat"? first ...but i dont want to seal the whole thing because i want to use 3 different colors to fill the cracks. Is this making any sense? So i thought ..I wil lspray a polyurethane coating...then later fill the cracks. Would the polyurethane spray be bad to use if using Resin? If so what can I use?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Nila, great question. What you describe is almost like making a river table with the larger cracks. I don't recommend a poly spray since the epoxy might not stick to it and also you may see the line between the poly and the epoxy. Sealing first with epoxy for large cracks does make sense. It can be brushed on with a disposable brush. Just be sure to wait until it has hardened but is still tacky to the touch before doing the final pour. If it hardens all the way it will be a problem unless you can find a way to scuff the hardened epoxy with sandpaper before the final pour. That can be a real challenge inside of a crack. To see more details on how I seal the wood for larger epoxy pours, check out my river table video at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZd0gdqcrbq-Yn0.html. It may answer some of your questions and give you additional ideas.

@jerryprovencher2047 Жыл бұрын

Likely a dumb question, but if I intended to use a contrasting color, say red, would you still go with the charcoal grout or would a uncolored grout work better? thanks, loved the video

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

The color comes from the grout…so any color will work. Don’t dye the epoxy or it will just mix colors with the grout. For example, if you dyed the epoxy blue and used yellow grout, you’d probably end up with green.

@calvinsmith1139 2 жыл бұрын

Hello Doug, thanks for providing such an informative video. For the non sanded grout you are using, is it labeled black or is it the poly blend charcoal? I can’t seem to find black grout online

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Calvin, sorry for the delayed response to your question. The grout I used is labeled “charcoal,” but other brands may call it black. Thanks for asking.

@therebellion6911 11 ай бұрын

Nice. So it works like mica powder? I need to fill cracks and heard dyes will bleed.

@dougpisik 11 ай бұрын

Thanks…and yes, it minimizes bleeding. I do recommend testing on an inconspicuous place first.

@NeedsMoreToys 2 жыл бұрын

I don’t own a planar. Will an orbital sander take the epoxy down at the same rate as wood? Seems like the rates would be different and cause trouble.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

If you use a new course grit paper with a rigid pad and moderate pressure, it should flatten out the epoxy level with the wood without any issues. I’ve done this plenty of times. Just make sure you don’t use a soft or sponge pad on your sander, and don’t push the sander down. The weight of your hand should be enough. I’m glad you asked this question. Thanks.

@tuppybrill4915 9 ай бұрын

Another video used a heat gun and a scraper on the excess before sanding to reduce the sanding required.

@dougpisik 8 ай бұрын

Something that may be worth trying, but I’d be concerned about pulling some of the epoxy out of the crack if you’re softening it up that much with a heat gun. It’s a risky process, but I assume can be done with the right epoxy and some practice.

@Thorton5044 Жыл бұрын

Wow Doug can I borrow your tools? ha ha I do have a huge beautiful imported Mexican pine table. The wood scratches easily. I think its more of a softer pine as it sands easily. There is a deep knot hole the size of a nickel that was filled with cheap light wood filler which I removed. There also is an 1/8 inch seam the length of the table where 2 pieces of the top of the table were joined and the same wood filler has shrunk. It looks awful. I also had a big long piece of wood that splintered off the top. Its roughly a 1/8 " deep and jagged. I'd like to refinish it. The wood is a light golden yellow. What should I fill it with? I can't afford to buy huge cans of 2 part epoxy. There is a 2 part putty epoxy stick you can buy for smaller jobs but I can't remember the name or if it stains well. Can you recommend a product? I don't know if I should just sand it or stain it. Can you recommend what to top coat it with to preserve the color of the natural wood that won't yellow? If I stain it is that stain permanent once its on?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Gail, you have a lot going on here! The challenge with filling wood cracks is that wood movement due to changes in humidity causes the cracks in wood filler. Unless you use something like epoxy that is also a glue that holds things together, cracks may reappear. That said, some fillers work better than others. Also, putting a finish on a table slows down the wood movement. The good news is that knot holes and divots caused by a removed splinter don't tend to have this problem. I recommend you fill in all your cracks and divots with Timbermate wood filler. It comes in different colors, so you can get a decent match...however, I usually like to use contrasting wood colors since it can make a crack or divot look like a natural feature in the wood instead of a repair. Usually I go with a couple shades darker than the rest of the wood. That's a design decision that's totally up to you. As for staining, your scratches will show up really dark unless they are sanded completely out. Again, that is a design decision. Note that pine can look blotchy if stained, so be sure to use a stain sealer bottom coat if you do decide to stain. As for a protective finish, I like wipe-on polyurethanes. I'd recommend at least three coats top AND bottom. You need to do both to ensure moisture in the air doesn't absorb into the wood unevenly which can cause warping and more cracking. Others may have additional or different advise, but I do hope this helps.

@bevdowdy9483 2 жыл бұрын

Hi are you using painters tape? Also what was in the squeeze bottle ? I really couldn't hear what you were saying about it. So you don't have to seal the wood or anything before you get started?

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Yup, I use painters tape. The epoxy is less likely to stick to it. Just make sure the surface of the wood is flat, smooth and free if dust. The squeeze bottle is TransTint dye. It can be used, but the grout minimizes the color from bleeding into the surrounding wood. No need to seal the crack first when using the the grout. If you don’t plan to plane down the piece after filling the crack, then you may want to seal the top surface to minimize the color bleeding into the surface. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching the video.

@bevdowdy9483 2 жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik thank you I appreciate it very much and I will tell my older brother Mike that we should try your way because he did seal the wood and used painters tape but now the tape won't come off. Hot mess but we're practicing. I'll let you know how it goes with your technique

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

@@bevdowdy9483 I hope this works for you going forward. I’d love to hear how it works out for you and your brother.

@LindsayMadden-plant-mb9sn Жыл бұрын

May I please ask. I want to try this with some mulberry wood which is quite yellow. Would you use a coloured resin or clear?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Good question. It depends on the look you’re going for. I like colored filler since it adds an accent to the wood. You can use colors other than black to give the piece a different look. Dark brown is natural. Red or blue can create a color pop. If you use clear then you’ll want to sand the inside of the crack so it will look nice after being filled.

@lindaheller1415 Ай бұрын

How would you do this on vintage floors with large cracks that I can't get to the bottom to tape off?

@dougpisik Ай бұрын

I don't know for sure if this will work, but if it were me I would add a little resin into the crack to see if it seals off the bottom and doesn't leak where you don't want it. After it cures, you can then do another pour that fills in the crack completely. Hope this works for you.

@janescott1484 Жыл бұрын

What does the non sanded grout do -vs- just epoxy.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

The grout adds a solid color. I like the black for filling cracks. Some people use dyes. The advantage of the grout is it minimizes the color bleeding into the surrounding wood grain.

@MechmanGetrieb 10 ай бұрын

I tried your method. It does work fine if you only sand the work pease afterwards. It does not leave a stain in the wood grain. But! If you have to do planing afterwards it proves to be hazardous to the planer blades. Something in the mix I used dulls them extremely fast. It is also labelled as sand free but contains other stuff like chalk.

@dougpisik 10 ай бұрын

I haven’t noticed this problem. Be sure you are using unsanded grout. Sanded grout will definitely dull your blades.

@MechmanGetrieb 10 ай бұрын

@@dougpisik according to the bag it's unsanded. But my work peace is much bigger than the one you showed as an example. What's the biggest fill you did till now?

@dougpisik 10 ай бұрын

@@MechmanGetrieb with the grout, no more than 2” wide. Sorry you’ve had problems. Resin is pretty dense, so that might have contributed to your dulling, but I really don’t know for sure.

@MechmanGetrieb 10 ай бұрын

@@dougpisik Ok! i see. I´ve been working with wood and epoxy combo´s on my planers for a while now. Big peaces 2m long and 0,22m wide 1 inch thick, hard beech wood. (Um that are roughly 6 feat length and 8 or 9 inch wide.) I have to do multiple passes on each side. That usually does not do much to the blades as I use carbide. It´s either my grout or the amount of milling. Anyway it´s been a try and if yours works its great!

@user-eg7gk2xw5b Жыл бұрын

I dont know what tape you've used, sir, but my entire project disintegrated, small and large holes alike leaked as if there was no tape at all. I've read in comments recommendation to support the back of slab but what does it mean? How exactly do you support it?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

I'm sorry to hear you had problems. The tape used was a good quality blue painters' tape. In order to ensure the tape sticks, the wood should be flat, smooth, and clean from dirt and/or dust. All that's needed to support the tape so it doesn't pull loose from the wood is to put the wood on a flat surface before pouring the epoxy. To be safe, the surface should be covered with wax paper or clear packing tape to prevent the surface from becoming glued to the wood if there is still a leak. I hope this information helps.

@Deetroitmuscle 2 жыл бұрын

I use epoxy die ina bottle for my black. What does the grout do? I tried to listen like 2-3 xs. I just missed it.

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Jacob, I’ve used dye as well, and sometimes the dye soaks into the wood grain leaving a dark hallo or streaks around the epoxy that can’t be sanded out. This is most prominent in light colored and open grain woods. The grout doesn’t tend to soak into the wood so it solves the discoloration issue.

@Deetroitmuscle 2 жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik thank you for the kind and knowledgeable reply sir. I appreciate the knowledge from someone who has more seat time.

@aaron74 9 ай бұрын

According to the video transcript, you said "go ahead" 32 times. Sorry I just had to check! Nevertheless, this is great information--thank you!

@dougpisik 9 ай бұрын

I’ll go ahead and thank you for your comment. I’m glad you appreciated the info.

@lindajohn58 8 ай бұрын

Sorry I cannot search the comments to find if you already answered this question. Why did you mix the Polyurethane 60/40 with Mineral Spirits?

@dougpisik 8 ай бұрын

I didn’t use any poly in this video, but in other projects I will thin down poly for a first coat so it soaks into the grain. I also thin poly at times to make a wiping poly that can be applied with a rag. When you buy wipe-on poly, you’re just basically buying thinned down regular poly.

@lindajohn58 8 ай бұрын

@@dougpisik Oh! I also watched your River Table right after this one … that might be where I remembered the thinned poly. Thanks, that makes a lot of sense to do.

@robsheedy3093 Жыл бұрын

I'm wondering why not use the tape on the top instead of the bottom? Not a big deal either way with a piece small enough to go through a planer. I have a huge slab, and trying to figure out if I should tape over the crack on the top or bottom side.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Rob, that’s a really good question. The answer is that either side could be called the “top,” but I put the tape on the side where the crack is the smallest. This way I’m pouring the resin into a wider opening ensuring a better flow and reducing the risk of trapping air inside.

@robsheedy3093 Жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik makes sense thanks for that. So you don't see a downside to me taping the top (what will be the finished side)? And pouring from the bottom? It's my first time and I chose a $1000 black walnut slab to learn on. Not the best planning on my part lol

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

@@robsheedy3093 shouldn’t be a problem. Just be sure the piece is sitting flat on a surface so the tape doesn’t come off. Be aware that the tape can also leave a divit if it’s pushed a little into the gap. That means you’ll have a lot of material to remove to level down to the bottom surface of the divit. By having the resin on the top, you can overfill the gap and then just sand or plane off the excess, so be careful to ensure the tape is flush and not pushed into the gap.

@robsheedy3093 Жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik Very helpful advice Doug. Thanks a ton. Cheers

@LindsayMadden-plant-mb9sn Жыл бұрын

Sorry another question. The lovely bark edge on my wood is very craggy and I can't get a good seal with tape. Can you suggest anything that's mouldable that I could use instead? 🤔

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Some people use clay, Play-Doh, or other similar material. You may have a challenge cleaning that off of the bark, so I recommend putting a single coat of a clear finish on the bark first to seal it such as polyurethane or something similar. It will make it easier to clean up.

@LindsayMadden-plant-mb9sn Жыл бұрын

Thank you. Is there any kind of accelerator you can use to speed up the setting?

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

@@LindsayMadden-plant-mb9sn No. Epoxy is rated at different curing times. You can use a faster cure epoxy if the crack is small, but if you’re using a large volume of epoxy, you need a slower cure so it doesn’t overheat.

@sagarlakhwani8356 Жыл бұрын

I tried using black pigment, the overflown epoxy got me stains on both sides of crack and by sanding i found it was so deep that its not possible to get it off..

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Sorry to hear this. Pigment can cause problems if the wood isn’t sealed first. That’s why I recommended using grout. It doesn’t tend to stain the wood as bad as the pigment does.

@johnholm8390 2 жыл бұрын

Why add dye as opposed to just clear?

@dougpisik 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for asking! It's a matter of personal preference. For a large gap like that shown, I find that black is a great non-distracting accent. Some like to use bright colors or mix crushed stone into the resin. Clear works also, but I don't personally like the look unless it's for something like an art installation where you want the voids to be transparent. That said, if you use clear you need to really polish the resin down (like I show in my River Table video) in order for it to look good. Otherwise you can rally see all the sanding marks, sort of like scratched plastic.

@grantrizmo2002cb Ай бұрын

Once I noticed the "S's" its all I could focus on.

@deviprasadratnakar5959 Жыл бұрын

Hi doug, I have a challenging situation, we have made some benches using sleeper pine woods. After all the processing of benches we have kepy outside for the sun... We observed that it has started cracking and opend up to an extent of 25mmm and also full length of the bench. Could suggest me an solution for this issue. If you kindly send me your emaild id.. I would share you with pictures as well. Tomorroq we need to reply for our client can u suggest me something.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

You can use this same method shown in this video. If you do, I recommend doing two pours to ensure the epoxy doesn't get too thick and overheat. Another option (which I've done before) is to add butterfly/bowtie supports across the cracks for added support. Once done, you can either leave the cracks as is knowing that the bowties should minimize future cracking, or fill in the gap with this technique after the bowties are installed. It makes for a nice accent and adds strength. YBTW: ou can ask your client if they'd like a color accent. If so, you don't need to use black. You can dye the epoxy any color you'd like.

@deviprasadratnakar5959 Жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik could you please provide me ur email id... So that we can share some pics

@ssgg3506 11 ай бұрын

Thought you said 2:1 ratio epoxy to hardner ….. you did a. 1:1

@dougpisik 11 ай бұрын

Sorry for the confusion. It’s a 2:1 ratio. The pumps are made for this epoxy. The larger pump dispenses twice as much as the other.

@charliebrady3751 Жыл бұрын

I think you should count the number of times you said - sorry, you should go ahead and count the number of time you said "go ahead and ...". You might be surprised.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll go ahead and do that. 😁

@deependz3231 Жыл бұрын

Why not just use fine sawdust instead of black grout, you may have talked yourself into how wonderful the finished product looks, but to me, it appears horrendous.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

Sorry you don’t like the black. Taste is very subjective and my clients are very happy. As for sawdust, it can leave a blotched look and leave voids and/or bubbles. The grout flows into all the gaps. Another option if you don’t like the black is using dyes or a different color. Would love to hear how your projects work out and what you use.

@deependz3231 Жыл бұрын

@@dougpisik Yea, I hear you, but I'm not ready to give up on the sawdust concept just yet. I'm thinking about experimenting with premoistened sawdust before adding to the epoxy, using mineral spirits etc. Could be a disaster, but hey, that's the fun with trial and error.

@dougpisik Жыл бұрын

@@deependz3231 Great concept…but I recommend using alcohol instead of mineral spirits since it is a great solvent for epoxy and the mineral spirits might not be compatible. Let me know how everything turns out.

@noname6568 Жыл бұрын

You missed a spot!😅😅😅

@dougpisik 11 ай бұрын

Ha!

@noname6568 Жыл бұрын

Cheater