Looks awesome man! Don’t beat yourself up about minor imperfections, that’s what makes it 1 of 1.

Orange peel can be avoided by controlling the evaporation time. By understanding the paint parameters like type and how humidity affects it. As you mention 2K paints have a determined cure time, so it can level out provided it has been thinned appropriately. I have found auto body painters are super helpful on the online fora, and they know their shot

Super glue and baking soda also worked well. Seen many fish bait makers use that technic when filling holes in the baits they added weights to, works really well.

Bondo sands smooth very well for crack filling.

Molotow makes a really awesome mirror like paint that would probably also look really cool for this project

Nice, tries graphite powder once on a blade but it ended up too dark, it was a glossy black so maybe for a future project will try gloss grey. Automotive 2k clear coat is the best gloss ever, it creates a super shiny perfect surface like glass, it does however go super heavy with an airbrush and may fill up small details. Best to use as a last protective coat since it’s transparent.

Just call the imperfections "battle damage" and it's perfect!😉👍

Very nice video. Very useful information for my upcoming Terminator project. Thanks for sharing !

Well... the question is "Did it work?" Id say no. It doesnt look like the silver surfer anymore. And I imagine you will have maintenance issues later down the line anyway with graphite powder. Needing to touch it up. That's how prop collecting goes. They will always need maintence. So there's no real way to keep that from happening. You're better off going with a paint that yes, will end up cracking. But at least will make your prop look like it's supposed to. Giving your prop the recognition it deserves.

thanks for showing a project that still doesn't live up to your standards, I know I have a couple like that I want to revisit and to see someone of your caliber reasures me in my process... also I've been wanting to try graphite for armor on a 1/4 scale figure. thanks for another great video

I never heard of using graphite powder to get the chrome finish. Even with the imperfections... it came up well.

Turned out sweet

For the little scratches, I noticed that you were sanding longways only. Even with low grits you’ll notice scratches if done like that and it won’t change the big ones. I like wet-sanding my models and works with a circular motion and go from a higher grit to lower (crevices that are hard to reach I just use a really low grit and hope for the best). Some filling putty’s also react and shrink from different types of humidity; even changes the curing time. Rustoleum sells filler primer and I don’t have any gripes with it at all. Fast drying and because it’s so thick, it fills cracks and scratches and even better when done in multiple coats and wet-sanded Either way, the statue looks great and even if it’s not exactly how you planned, its painting has been innovated to the next level with this new technique. Great work

Looks great, t cut and small circles like spit and polish will give you a better finish than a pad though. I’ve completely cut back the paint on my Darth Vader helmets using this method!

About the reoccurring cracks : I can't say for sure, but in my experience (i had that with some previous props and it drove me insane, because they would always reappear as well) they can't be fixed. If you experience those hair cracks, i believe it is because when assembling the model originally, the bond between the pieces wasn't good enough, and they have a tiny TINY bit amount of wiggle room still, which means that no matter how many times you sand and fill and paint, that half a millimetre worth of movement between the pieces will make filler and paint crack over and over. I don't know what the model is made from originally (resin or filament or something else) but when it concerns 3D prints printed with filament, i stopped using glues. Even epoxy was never good enough. I moved on to welding the pieces together with a soldering iron, which essentially fuses both pieces together, removing both the need for glue, and whatever wiggle room i had on previous props.

Damn! That surf board is the size of a standard skate board. Good job on the paint.

Him: "it's got so many imperfections" Me: [squinting] if you say so. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I think if you went with a dark Gray. it looks Like gun metal black so a darker blue gray as an undercoat and then added the powder to the wax. Mixing everything I think it would fill in a lot of those cracks & scratches hidden them as well as give it a nice sheen.

Maybe for the last pics you can use a diferent background to make it looks more light because looks more mor3 darker in that way

Nice work! messy but would love to try it 😁

Could you try this finish over different glossed base colors please? I'd really appreciate it, I'm curious how it might change the finished product

Hey dude, great video and a real struggle with the board Can I ask you from where did you get the SS stl file? And can it be bought now?

I think this is dope asf

Wow even Galactus wouldn't go to that much trouble.

WOW

You need to use the Science Store version of the powder. It's a smaller grain and shinyer

Have you tried electro-plating it? You can 'chrome plate' plastics by first spraying it with an electrically conductive paint first. There are some YT videos on the process.

Although I've seen people use Green Stuff World chrome successfully, I've yet to get it to work. It always looks like shiny metal/aluminum.

What was the polish brand that ended up working?

Hand sanding can cause places filled in with putty to show up again. Block sanding gives a more uniform appearance.

its hard to tell from the short, super-speed clip, but i think the reason your crack repairs keep showing up is because weren't using a sanding block. You'll never get a flat surface without one, no matter how many times you fill it.

But won5 the graphite powder rub off in time ? Doesn’t it need sealing ?

Ich fühl das… große Flächen nach dem Verbinden wirklich 100% verschwinden zu lassen (gerade bei so einem smoothen finish) ist richtig tricky und nervig. Finds aber sehr cool was du machst - und auch deine Aufklebeaugen sind super ;). Du bist eine Bereicherung, mach weiter so :)

Sir, try nail polish powders over gloss black

Try filling with ca glue.

Gun metal surfer I fuckin love it!!

I don't remember the black metallic chrome surfer?

When sanding use a sanding block rather than just holding the sand paper. This gives a flat edge and will better keep the joints level.

Tried mirroriest mirror paint?

The problem with cracks might be due to your filler. I think something like milliput could work better for filling such gaps.

that struggle is real in seam lines .....

You need to feather out your repair area with glazing compound.

It's too dark. Go with Alclad or Spaz Stix Chrome paint, same glossy black base.

Way too dark

i love your videos and i made my one channel

Amazing.

Gun Metal Surfer sounds cooler anyways

You ruined it

Boring

just buy silver leaf