My dad has an older multimeter from the 80s and that is still working to this very day, and it was proudly made in good old U.S.A.

I have the same meter. The positive terminal is starting to fail in the same way and the beeper is broken. It still works though, even has one of those Radio Shack batteries in it!

2 uploads on my birthday :D Thanks!

Hello I would suggest to remove the solder at the connection joint first, easiest and cheapest way is by using radio shack desoldering braid, or other brand, then resolder both tabs at once, nice repair.

It seems like when people are using multimeters in videos for the most part they have the leads connected backwards so when they are testing voltages it says - and then the voltage.

I have a similar model which is suffering from a similar issue (the connectors are still in place, but they have opened up to the point where the positive probe doesn't make proper contact with the connector..easy fix, but the plastic bit keeping the connector in shape has broken off). Mine has an RS-232 connector on it so I can hook it up to the computer and gather data for later reference if need be. I'm thinking I may make some sort of digital data acquisition unit with this, a raspberry pi with touch screen LCD, and a USB oscilloscope. Won't be the best, but will be more than good enough for me and what I do with electronics.

Apparently, measuring the battery that powers a multi-meter with the multi-meter itself is sort of like trying to run from your own legs...

Hey I have one of those wellor soldering irons!! I have never seen another one other than my 23 watt variant ( I think.. the writing is barley legible), It was cool to see one!

I need to start sending you broken electronics and retro computers so you'll make more videos.

I have that same soldering iron. I tried to perform some KTER myself, by doing a recap job on a TV PSU board, but it just took way too long to warm up, and it never really reached a high enough temperature to properly solder anything, unfortunately.

The one thing I hate is the fact the lower cost meters is the 10 amp setting is not fused . That big loop in your meter is what carries the high current . I have about 5 meters from my time on submarines in the NAVY and while I worked on 16.8 k voltage systems . On a submarines the ground is floating so the meter has to be a lot better than lower cost meter It funny now but back when I first went on subs I made the mistake of using a o scope without a isolation transformer . It was only 60 volts but it make a big fireworks.

Is there a RadioShack still in your area? Maybe they'd have parts for it there. It would be cool to do a Harbor Freight vs. RadioShack Multimeter showdown! Haha. Awesome videos!!

Funny, I just sold a fluke 867B for a friend for about $300. They weren't sure if it worked.

Darn, this video is very interesting. I had no idea that this was possible... Great video as always...

Hey its a good multimeter bill, ive allways liked radio shack meters, not the most accurate in the world but plenty good enough for general testing :-D. I Have two old flipstand micronta digitals from the 1980's, display at the top and two grey knobs for the range and mode, they served me very well :-D Later as i understood the way multimeters are designed i trimmed the fixed resistors inside my old micronta's to make the ranges more accurate, just needed better resistors for them to be so much better on accuracy :-D Your autoranger will be very good for general work, if that COM post plays up, perhaps removing the bits and soldering the end of the lead into the mini pcb would be a long term fix, and a blob of hot glue in the top tube to stop the lead pulling out. The com wire is allways in that socket, make it a perminant job perhaps? :--D

You might wanna get yourself a lower end fluke multimeter. I own an 17B+ and have to say it is much better then the cheap ones I owned. The thing will set you back about 90 Dollars, but it is build to last.

I would recommend picking up a vintage Fluke meter on eBay.

Hi! I've that tester is the best. But i've a problem mi tester has got a two resitor damage (r43 and r56). I wondering if you can tell me the ohms of those resistors. Excelen video, thanks.

I had one of these meters. Thought it was pretty decent right up till the point that it bizarrely started reading voltages well below the actual voltage, it might have read to high now that I think about it. Either way it was off by a few volts. I went through 2 of those $20 red harborfreight meters too. Thought those were decent till they up and never turned on anymore. And no none of these problems were because of the battery. Funny thing though, the cheap $10 or maybe $15 meter I got off ebay has been quite a good meter. I've tested it against my Fluke, and it does pretty good for itself. But there are people that say a lot of Fluke meters are junk too. So I don't know. I am not doing anything scientific with my meters. If it is suppose to be 3.2v and it reads 3.26 on the meter, that is good enough for me.

I would like to see a video about the computer you use for video editing and uploading

My issue is the RS cat # 22-612 is not on zero ever is reading crazy numbers ! How can I fix it ??

No need for a Fluke for low voltage hobbyist stuff?

is it true that radioshack is no more?

Is that your only meter? I figured you would have had a spare of two.

Is that a RadioShack 22-813? I had a smd component to fall off after I dropped it, but the listed component is very difficult to read. It's on the selector switch side of the board near the range button pad and across R47 and below R15 and above the ground spring for the shield. I think it is C7 which could be a capacitor. If that's true do you know the value?

Cool.

hopefully your repair will last otherwise you could maybe install a screw-on banana socket to the existing hole, not realy as safe as original but possibly more reliable

If you don't already have some, get yourself some flux.

Why not spend $50-100 on a real multimeter that'll give you safety and none of these issues.