Great video!! Loved it!

Appreciate your efforts. Thanks

Excellent video, thank you!

Basically all the symptoms is what I'm having lol. Thx much! I was worried that it was the engine going bad 😅

Very much appreciated and straight forward

Oh my goodness it is so sad that you explained this so simple and 2 mechanics cant figure this out with my car or is too lazy to do so!!! I tried explaining this my self but Im not of mechanic of course!! Well! said!!!🙌🏾👏🏽👏🏽

I had a vacuum leak coming from the small air box on top of my 05 Saturn L300’s engine. The rubber fitting around the intake was totally split open like a starfish. It would idle at over 1000 rpm, and run rough at lower RPMs. I went into Autozone and bought some heat shrink tubing, then walked across the street to a gas station and bought a lighter. Heat shrank the fitting closed with 1 tube, and then heat shrank another tube with excess bunched up around the intake to create a snug fit. It took a few tries to get it air tight, but eventually the suction noise stopped and the car started idling normally.

I don't recommend spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine! I had that happen one time ⌚ and ended up with a car fire 🔥! Luckily I had my fire extinguisher near by and put it out quickly.

Excellent video as always my friend, but bit to FAST to comprehend all the info. Thank you.

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O8 Aveo LS is notorious for intake leaks.

I had a vacuum leak because of three loose hose clamps. It caused the car to occasionally idle rough, headlights flickered because of poor idle, and the car would occasionally stall

I gave a 2011 mustang gt how do yo check for vacuum leak

Very helpful video. Also could I just spray water instead of carb cleaner to find the leak?

I need help! I have a 2000 e320 Mercedes and I believe my problem could be a vacuum leak as well as a crankshaft position sensor, but idk. It hisses super loud and it misfires constantly and when it does so the check engine light flashes. And it won’t let me go above 20mph no matter what.

My car might turn off when i'm going downhill and then let off the gas pedal instantly. It's a jdm 2004 forester sg9 sti. Could that be a vaccum leak?

Mates E46 currently has a very rough idle and intermittently misfires when running. He's replaced a vacuum hose but the problem still remains

My gas cab caused a vacum leak the code was p0456 indicates evap system detected a small leak, i changed the gas cab and everything went to normal, note that the code calls for a vacum leak in the evap system not partically the gas cap

Good job

Spot on my man, i would only add speed density engines (map but no maf) react the opisite to vacum leaks. The engine runs higher rpm than normal beecause the computer adjusts for the pirate air. Maf and a map both on the engine they respond just like a maf, low idle and want to stall

I have a 94 Camaro 3.4 v6 checked everything but intake leaks where would be the best place to start and it will start for a second and then immediately stall so it’s a major vacuum leak

What if i got all three of those cel codes would it definitely be a vacuum leak?

any body got anything on honda idsi engine? specifically city 1.5 idsi

My car rough idles and low idles, after idling without ac on for 20 minutes, corolla wants to stall. It still does it with ac on but not as often and take longer for stalling. Still rough idle.

Do bad clutch sensor

I have a 2005 highlander, I tried the cleaner but it I can't find any leaks, I want to try a smoke tester, but don't know where to plug it in. Please help! 2005 toyota highlander 4 cylinder. I appreciate your help

I don’t know if it’s a vacuum leak that’s causing the number one cylinder misfire with a code PO 316 but I know more now watching your video so I’m subscribing, thanks.

I just bought a used Honda Civic. I’m experiencing these symptoms the RPM when I’m at a red light is very low. In fact, when I got the car I noticed that the hose to the engine air filter was off so I put that on wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a leak somewhere.

Any ideas common areas of a leak with a 2010 Infiniti G37? I'm finding low coolant levels along with dampness down the sides of the engine.. possibly valve cover or intake??

Can a vacuum leak trigger ONLY a PO420 code ?.... cat efficiency low? I'm chasing a far away turbo "whine" sound that could be an exhaust leak or intake leak. Seems to me to more likely be an exhaust leak before or at the cat, affecting the fore and aft sensor operation....this can trigger a PO420. However, I have no other codes thrown as you show ( no PO300, no PO17X codes at all)...and if these aren't there....can we safely assume I should direct my attention only on the exhaust side? I have no idling issues or driveability issues either....just the far away turbine noise and the PO420 coming back. Oxygen sensors test fine and no sensor codes are thrown either.

I have a 2002 audi a4 3.0i quattro and it seems that I have a vacuum leak from under the intake actuator (pressure tested with smoke) it's not the side vacuum hoses, it literally come from under the middle of the intake manifold.. What could it be? I am suspecting intake manifold gaskets, but then why would the smoke come right from the middle... Any advice? Thank you in advance!

My friends car older civic had p0171 lean code and ended up being a clogged fuel injector.

Vacuume pipe leak can cause rpm drop while u are on traffic?

If I don't have a engine light on can the code still show on the scanner ( with a cheaper scanner or does it have to be a expensive one to show ) ?.

I don't have stalling but at lower speed my rpm bounce up just a little then bounce back to normal idk what it is but got a feeling it's something like this happening

Mine sometimes dies straight after cold start. Triggered o2 codes. Slight hissing sound sometimes. Slightly lumpy idle like its gonna cut out. But 3 mechanics have said cant find air leak and one even used a smoke test

So I had a check engine light and cleared the code, ran the car for about 300km, high speeds. Then when I stopped, the check engine light came on again. It looks like a vacuum leak caused it. Is that fine???? That I drove the car for quite a distance. Did not notice any performance issues so I thought it was ok. 😢

Sounds like chris fix

My 1996 Mazda Protege has all these exact symptoms, EXCEPT it runs better when it's cold. I can drive for about 15 minutes each day before it starts acting up. And if it's a hot day out, it sometimes starts acting up immediately.

I have a 2013 BMW M135i with the N55 engine. My car runs very bad when it’s cold outside. (extremely rough idle) The colder it is the worse it gets. At temperatures Below -15c / 5f the engine may even stall a few times. After a few minutes when the engine has been warmed up it runs perfectly fine. Could this be caused by a vacuum leak? Spark plugs and ignition coils have been replaced recently but that didn’t help at all. The previous owner of my car installed an open air filter and blow off valve. Maybe he did something wrong and ended up with a vacuum leak/boost leak? Please help me i don’t know what to do. i just bought the car 6 months ago and it’s the most expensive car i have ever owned.

Could this happen only when the engine is cold?

Could this be why my car accelerates without even hitting the gas pedal from a stop and gets up to 50 mph before I brake

I have a lean fuel problem when starting, but once started it runs ok while cold but stalls out more when it starts getting hot. I had a vacuum leak that I fixed but there seems to be fluid in the vacuum lines, I changed the fuel pump about a year ago, the fuel filter a year ago and again a month ago, new tps, new thermostat, new fuel pressure sensor under the hood. I’ve taken of the throttle body, iac, egr, maf, and temp sensor and sprayed them with cleaner. It’s a 1997 Chevy blazer LS 2dr with 4wd and 4.3 vortex engine, I don’t have a fuse box under the hood that I can find. It seems like fuel pressure is low but watching these videos it seems like all the symptoms I have could be anything in any of these videos but the main difference I see is mine gets worse when it warms up not better. It does seem like a gasket could be leaking but I have stop leak in the oil and sealant in the coolant and I haven’t noticed the fluids mixing as of yet. And I don’t have any smoke from burn off from the engine. I put in a catalytic clean and an injector cleaner in it also which seemed to improve its performance some and made the engine light go off but still have a crank no start and stalls when I drive it too long, Any advise?? My next step was the fuel pressure regulator inside the manifold or the valve the vacuum hoses connect to on the transfer case. Yet I’m still not done with your videos, but I am learning a lot. Oh and the battery reset so I have no codes to go off of. But months ago before doing any of this I had a code for cat, egr, and hvac. Oh and the gas cap was relaxed a few years ago and radiator cap was replaced a few months ago and the battery is also new and battery terminals are new but wiring is a little questionable. Before the lean condition started I used to have to jump my car everytime I started it even after I got a new battery so I thought maybe a ground was out somewhere then this started happening so I haven’t ruled out bad wiring just yet.

I am battling finding a vacuum leak on my ford focus st 225..on cold start up you can hear swish sound as car gets warm no sound

Geo metro engine placed inside Suzuki Cultus ... EGR vacuum leak hoses connected wrong also a vacuum that connected to the fuel regulator if the fuel regulator sensor is stuck open you will burn more fuel

I went in for an alignment and the guy went to the parking lot and pulled my car into his shop. He then came back inside and told me, man you love your rite it’s so smooth u can’t even hear the car is on. Well rite when I pulled off it had a lack of power and few days later it was running horrible when cold startup till warm. It ended up being that the guy loosened all my intake manifold bolts. The question I have is why? They had 5 star reviews why me?

Why do my rpms go up and down like crazy but the car runs perfectly fine, like literally perfect, I accelerate it, no problem at all, happens here and there tho not every time , but when idling, car shakes a little and the needle is a little bit more down than where it’s suppose to be what could it be ?

Hi what's happening I find Ur channel very useful.... So I have a question about my 2008 tundra so my battery died from parking too long. Then went to replace it with new. Now when I connect the terminals the starter keeps cranking none stop. So I have to disconnect one of the terminals to get it to stop..what could cause this pls

I have Mercedes-Benz 200, 123 Series from 1982 and it has a vacuum leak. I can't exactly make out where it's coming from but it's somewhere in the middle. Any tips to find it? Besides using carburator cleaner.

Hey do you know why my car starts shaking for 2 sec and dies when I come to a stop when I pop it in neutral it stops and also is the car supposed to idol at like 500 to 750 rpm

Po302 ? Vacuum leak 20p6 Subaru sti

Please use lambda thanks

Everytime I’m at a stop sign or red light and I’m on my brakes. My car rpm’s drop and it once died and turned back on. Any fixes?

Truck doesn't start when I turn it key it clicks but wont start 2000 Montero sport xls

Tighten the gas cap - you are welcome, I just saved you $100-$1500 😄

Lies evap canisters

My 1997 Toyota Tacoma with A 2.4L engine starts but when warmed up and put in gear, even in reverse it stalls! My Blue Point code reader is pulling code PO 171 system to lean, PO 130 O2 circuit sensor 1, PO 133 O2 circuit slow response Bank 1 sensor. Any ideas on what to look for?