This is a good example of why you should always follow the workshop manual rather than some idiot (me) you see on KZfaq. I’m not a mechanic. My vids are aimed at demystifying the process only.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Don't be too hard on yourself as the manual doesn't mention which cylinder is 1 or 2 and also tells us to align timing chain sprocket marks to the top notch when it should be the bottom, who knew.

So there you are, no wiser. Nor am I. Is No1 cylinder clutch side or throttle side?

@@stevetaylor8698 Cylinders are always numbered left to right AS YOU SIT ON THE BIKE. #1 is clutch side; #2 is throttle side, always.

@@webmastermail8 can you explain this further? i dont get what you're saying

So he did it wrong then? @Honda NC750X Stuff can you address this please?

@@paulkelly5296 Adjusting valves takes some knowledge and experience, it's not for beginning wrenchers. Mess it up, damage your engine. Play it safe. Bleeding brakes or adjusting the chain slack is child's play compared.

Big Daddy - thanks mate.

Good to hear. Thanks.

DervMan - Agree. It's one of the top reasons I chose the NC over the Kawasaki Versus And the "check" bill will double if actual adjustment is needed - remove cans etc.

Dario Iglesias - thank you.

Good to hear another person doing their own maintenance. Thanks.

Good to hear. Thanks

Andrew Pugh - thanks for the thumbs up Andrew. Appreciated.

Brian 1 - thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback

Thomas Owens Me too, I’m still a begginer and this bike seems perfect from all points, price especially

Thanks mate. I’m blushing 🥰

If they are too tight you risk damage to the valves. I'd check at 48K just to be safe. Often the valves are okay for tons of miles after the first check up.

For the hour it takes to do I think it's time well spent!

Paul The Grump - always exciting to get a new bike. DCT not sold on Oz. Have you joined the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners Group”?

Many thanks for your reply

Khairi Rais - your mechanic was correct. The vstrom cams are difficult to get at and use "shim and bucket" clearance adjustment, not the simple "screw and locknut" of the NC Honda. This is one reason I chose the NC

Honda NC750X Stuff : A wise choice indeed you chose.

Many bikes are shim and bucket. Give some, lose some. Choose wisely.

RnRbmk Having owned a 700 and 750 i can tell you you wont notice the difference, in fact sometime i think my 700 was faster.

Good on you mate. It’s a great feeling to “do it yourself”. After that initial adjustment my value clearances have not moved. Now at 61,000km.

Did you have to remove the spark plugs?

@@ropeysubstance1719 I did because I wanted to replace them anyway. You would be fighting against engine compression when rotating it if you do not remove them

@@NLRamonNL i see, thanks!

Robson Enduro - yes. It’s worth it just for the peace of mind, given how easy it is to check.

How are you finding it?

That's one of the reasons I bought mine. The suspension, however, leaves much to be desired.

callum millward - if you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group”, there is a workshop manual in “files”.

Correct

NO!!! Rocker arm locking nuts must only be torqued to 14Nm.

Graham Allardice - yes I should have done that.

Shutters Castle Hill - Castle Hill Shutters - I've done a few hundred km on gravel roads (see my three day ride video). Although having a 17" front wheel it handles loose gravel well. The bike is "built to a price" and doesn't have any suspension adjustment other than rear preload. The tank holds 14ltrs. I get an average of 3.5 ltrs/100 which gives about 400km per tank. I owned a GS1150 for 13 years before this bike, riding it to places such as Innaminka. The NC is no GS but for the price and cost of ownership, I'm more than happy with it.

I’m not a qualified mechanic so you should always follow the workshop manual instructions. This is just what I do. 🙂

To be fair, you should never follow advise from KZfaq without using the workshop manual. You never know if you are following an idiot like me or a trained mechanic.

pixxel - whenever doing maintenance on the bike you should follow the workshop manual instructions. KZfaq videos are just for general understanding. Tools? You will need a set of feeler gauges.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff yep I got that👍

oh really - just a standard socket - can’t remember the size - fits onto the head of a bolt.

Gryphus - in you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group” (be sure to intelligently answer the three questions) a PDF manual is in the Files section.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thank you so much :)

thealvaco - I was surprised too. But to be fair there was still some clearance - just not perfectly in spec. If it had been a shim system I would have left it as is, but as it’s so easy to adjust - I did it.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I'd do the same.

Ariel Britos - no performance improvement. The important thing is that if the gap is too small, the valve can stay open, which then burns the valve seat as it is exposed to combustion, which means head removal and repair.

Paul Young - no you cannot tell by listening. A quiet engine can mean no clearance on the valves. If you don’t know the history you must check the clearances. It could be very expensive if the clearances have closed up, causing valve seats to be burned and therefore a complete head recondition.

If the clearances are way out it will sound different but you wont know till you do it.

pedro lopez DJ - don’t know. It’s probably in the workshop manual but I don’t bother with torque settings unless it’s engine head bolts. They just need to be firm as there is a rubber gasket

Paul C - my experience with shin adjustment bikes is they rarely need adjustment. But I think it’s more common on screw and lock nut bikes for the first adjustment. I haven’t had to adjust again and now done 50,000km.

Dave Mammali - I only knew they were out when I measured the gap. It’s critical to check as the first you will know the gaps are closed is when the valve seats get burned and the bike starts missing. Then you are up for a head recondition!

bigwheelsturning - yes only one pipe. The advantage of a low stressed low revving engine means the nice and easy screw and lock but adjustment.

I used to have a TMax and loved it. If you wind up getting the NC750, post a review back here to let us know how you like it. I'm curious to see how the power is compared to the TMax.

Will do. As much as I like the Tmax, the idea of having to adjust the valves this winter gives me the chills. I'm looking at the DCT model to save the grip in my left hand. Should be easy to ride like the Tmax.

Good idea to have screw and nut tappet adjustment: with shims adjustment, you need to remove the camshaft. In the nc750x service manual, step number one for removing the cam shaft is: "remove engine from motorcycle frame "....

Btw I say so because now I exp diff to start, check engine light, overheating as the fan was turned on after engine off.

Paul Cooper - join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group”. There is a manual in the files section.

Faizal Ahmad - no you don’t have to drain the engine oil. Cannot remember the size socket I used to turn the engine. Just try one till it fits.

Honda NC750X Stuff okay thxs

crispernator - no, I don’t have a workshop manual for the 750. I’m using a free downloaded 700 version that is close enough for what I need.

ok thanks for that

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff , unfortunately the 'free' downloaded version you have is not helping you since you've misidentified the cylinders in your video (you've shown the exhaust tappet for #2 as #1) and has been referenced many times as shown here: www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/4513-valve-adjustment-step-step.html "Since we've lined up Cylinder #1 -- which is ON THE LEFT -- we're going to check those first. " www.nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/11650-misc-maintenance-tips.html "Once you have set the #1 (left) cylinder's valves, you need only move 270 degrees more to line up T2 for the #2 (right) cylinder. " nc700forumsa.proboards.com/thread/254/valve-adjustment-procedure-honda-nc700x 1/2 down the page a picture of the valve adjustment is found showing Cylinder #1 (#1 exhaust) KZfaq procedure found here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pb2Fdqmg35aVpJ8.html @ 4:08 the video references "Align 1 with the Notch for Cylinder 1(Clutch side), Align 2 with the notch for Cylinder 2 (Brake side) " as in which side your clutch/brake handles are. All in all an excellent presentation save this pertinent detail which I believe since this is the second notification you might want to re-shoot this portion of your video. As a point of reference I've had my NC700X since 12/2012 and have 67,600 + miles and have done my own service the whole time and used the above procedures without a problem.

albijohnson- if you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners Group” there is a shared electronic copy in the files section.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hello. I tried to find the facebook group that you write but i can't find the group. Can you upload the document somewhere which we can download? thank you very much.

Tamer Yiğit - you will have to try again to find the Facebook group (type in the name as I have described it) and request to join. Cannot upload documents to KZfaq.

todd baker - I believe so, but don't know conclusively.

No performance improvement. Once valve clearances close up enough to leave valves open the first thing you get is misfiring under load, then burned valve seats, then a head recondition ....

Big Daddy - the process will bid the same. Don’t know about the clearance settings. Sorry.

seems to be prevalent with these NC's though none have reported valve problems. they just usually work themselves a bit tight I've read.

It’s very underrated. You have to own one to appreciate how good they are. Regret selling? No. My Africa Twin allows me to go places I couldn’t go comfortably on the NC. Didn’t care for ? The budget suspension and (for my 190cm) cramped sitting position.

If you stay by the front (like in the Video), the left cylinder is the cylinder one. The right cylinder is the cylinder 2.

@@alexvandettum4185 That is wrong. Cylinder one is the one in the left while sitting on the bike. That means "gear selector" side. The video is wrong. Take care because is really important to adjust the valves when in TDC in compression.

Cylinder 1 is to the right then you see it from the video and the spark plug cable is labeled (1) to the right then you sitt I front of the Bike

Numbered on the opposite direction of engine power outlet. Like a car you numbered on the opposite of gearbox

Antimortem - I haven’t felt the need to check it. Symptoms would be uneven idle and jerky slow speed when the throttle is just a little open. You need special purpose vacuum gauges to check it.

Usually you must check it every 20k km. Its standard maintenance for every multiple cylinders engines. Why don't you do it as preventative maintenance? Another symptom of uneven intake body is vibration. Please think about it :)

Antimortem - I’ve thought about it. But won’t be doing it any time soon. I agree it is standard on carbureted bikes but not nearly as necessary on fuel injected ones.

That's not true. You still need to adjust the amount of pressure that goes into the engine. Carb type is called carburetor butterflies sync. Fuel injection ones is throttle body sync. Trust me, it's an essential maintenance job. I have seen it being done on a mt07 Yamaha but it would be better to see it done on the nc750. If you wait for the symptoms than it might not be obvious till a more serious problem starts happening.

Antimortem - mate what do you not understand about NO?

Sorry. No.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks bro..... do you have any solution to remove the water pump from the engine as i notice that the Body frame is blocking the bolts ..... would appreciate it if you have any solution on that.... was thinking of loosening the engine mount to drop the engine slightly.... what do you suggest... thanks again.....

I don’t have any experience with the water pump removal. And as I’m not a mechanic I can’t offer any suggestions either. What does the workshop manual say? You should never attempt any job without reference to the workshop manual.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff noted with thanks... the manual is not clear....

Stefanos Gkouts - 24

Thanks

Stefanos Gkouts - checked again recently at 40,000km. No change. Still in spec.

@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Great to know. Thank you very much for the info

Antonio Tomás Cobo Villalba - sorry. I only speak English so don’t understand your comment.

Ohh sorry, I would like to know with how km have you done the valve adjustment and also with how km do you recommend me, lot of thankss

Antonio Tomás Cobo Villalba - 24,000km intervals.

Gracias

Yes, this video is wrong.

I think so, too. Cylinder 1 is in the Opposite Site of the clutch. So While sitting in the bike. Cylinder 1 is left. And two is right.

my friend, they sell this bike as adventure but is not,.. here in Canada after sales they says this bike is a touring cruiser... for long trips. but unfortunately seat is garbage for that too.

Jay B - agree. It's one reason I bought the NC. By the way, the GS BMW's (the air/water cooled ones at least ) also have screw and lock but adjustment.

Jay B Early GSX engines had screw adjusters and they were high performance, bloody lot easier than ginning around with shims.