😂😂😂 best comment! Thank you!

Thank you for commenting - really appreciate it!

That’s great to hear - glad it helped!

Thank you for taking the time to write that - I really appreciate it. Making these videos is most definitely a labor of love!

Amazing! Super happy to hear this was helpful for you. Cool that you’ve owned the Cruiser since ‘03 - you can really see the effect of more frequent oil changes when you get in there. Also lucky that you don’t have to remove the cams to change the cam seals - just did that job which had me questioning the VVTi :)

You have me beat Yeahmaybe (great tag!). My 05 I bought fall of 04 is still *faultless at 193k* (other than O2 sensors, typical minimal maintenance, and some rust failures). Otherwise, yes: best vehicles on the planet! Reviewing ALL your GREAT videos DIY to see what I might need to do. One thing: check the tightness of my valve cover screws! .. Makes me wonder if that's all you would have needed to do to stop your leak; tighten those up???

Hi Mike, Perhaps worth a try, but when I pulled the valve covers off, the gaskets had clearly failed. They had become stiff and a bit crumbly. I just encountered my second issue when, as I was driving, the ABS and brake idiot lights came on and a high pitch sound began to eminate from the dash area. I got out of traffic and pulled over, just as my brake pedal lost all pressure and I lost my brakes. Scary and without warning. I have a two way scanner that diagnosed my problem as a failed brake booster motor. Turns out that sound is a warning signal for failed brakes!! Like so many issues, after doing a bit of searching it turns out that this is also a relatively common problem. Parts are spendy, but the actual job of replacing the booster motor looks pretty straight forward. @@mikek5486

Thank you! All the great resources are the icing on the cake for owning the 100 series :)

Thanks Kevin!

Definitely - glad it was useful!

Thank you! Ain’t nobody got time for that BS :)

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you! Mine is due in about 10k so I’m getting ready for it 😅

Thanks! Yeah +1 to that, driver's side is a pain.

Awesome - thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks for the comment - I really appreciate it!

Awesome, thank you!

Thank you! Tackling progressively bigger jobs, I’ve got 10k miles to figure out how to change the timing belt 😅

@@LandCruiserDIY wow that's a big job! Had it done a couple years ago thankfully. That'll be a interesting video!

Thanks, Johnny!

Thanks for the comment! Yeah depending on the state of the seals and connectors, it can be quite a bit of work 😅

Thank you!

@@LandCruiserDIY 💯

Thank you - thinking about it pretty soon!

Thank you! Starter video coming soon actually 👍

would be awesome to include part numbers, thanks

Thank you! Part numbers coming :)

Good question - not that I'm aware of. Next for me is replacing the cam seals and timing belt, which has me nervous as well! Good luck replacing it - make a video and post it!

Im surprised my mechanic didn't tell me about leaking VC gaskets when he replaced both Bank Knock Sensors on my '05 GX with 260k miles. Replacement of these sensors, starter, and other goodies under intake was not cheap. Im thinking about tackling this job myself once I recover from recent back surgery that I just had on 11/17/24. I've never done any major wrenching in engine bay. Mainly cosmetic stuff like new headlight housing, Garage Alpha grill with raptor lights, Floating Screen Head unit, speakers, etc. But I must say your video is very detailed in getting this job done, and once I heal in a few weeks, Im definitely going to attempt this. Working on these rigs is definitely much more entailed than working on my '70 SS El Camino I once had. Sold that bad boy many years ago not knowing of their value now. Hindsight !!! But I must say these GX's are amazing beasts for sure. Great video brother !!!

Yes, the form-in-place-gasket (FIPG) is required. The Toyota black fipg is cheap and easy to find - I’d suggest using that one.

+1 to Josh’s comment. The first time I did the valve cover gaskets a couple bolts were loose enough I could almost turn by hand. If just snugging back up it would be worth doing several passes around all the bolts in the star pattern. I thought these videos were useful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/epZkmLl9vdTQYZ8.html

I actually just did this and have some additional info to add. #1 I had a lot of oil around the pan on the dip stick side and learned two things when replacing the o-ring on the dip stick (a) the o-ring itself was partially to blame (b) the dip stick touches near the valve cover - most of the oil by the o-ring, was actually from a valve cover leak #2 it is in fact quite easy to replace, just remove one bolt which folds the dipstick guide to the block, then pull it up and replace the o ring. Having a buddy for the reinstall would be helpful 🤙

@@LandCruiserDIY That’s great. I’ve heard it’s best to clean around the o-ring to 1. Make sure no grime gets in there. 2. Be able to see indication of further leaks.

Hey - all done in fcpx. The animations / pointers / transitions are a plug-in I bought for making tutorials

I forget which brand, but in general look for a degreaser with a neutral or near-neutral pH level. Extremely acidic or basic solutions are what damage aluminum. If I was doing it over, I’d just use soapy water because I remember spending too much time looking for the right degreaser to use.

@LandCruiserDIY good to know! when i did this on the passenger side last year (following this video of course) I did a ton of searching too and ended up just using simple green bc it's what i had on hand. still unsure if that was the right move. when i tackle the driver side this year, i'll just use soapy water 👍

I'm posting a few quick and easy ones shortly. Potentially doing the timing belt & cam seals in the next month - that'll be the biggest project yet!