Tips for Hot Climates, Off Grid: Insulation is great if you have air conditioning, but you won't run AC off grid in a van. Without AC, your best protection is SHADE and NO INSULATION. This allows the van to cool at night after the sun goes down. For shading the ROOF... Install a large rooftop rack that covers the entire van roof. Install a sheetmetal (or well painted plywood) pan under the roof-rack. Voila! Your roof is shaded, and the airgap between roof and rack-pan allows airflow and natural cooling. For shading the SIDES of the vehicle, always park with the big side door facing South, and the front of van facing West. Deploy a big awning from the roof rack, shading the S facing side of the van. However, the worst heat gains are late afternoon when the air is hottest (after 2pm) and the sun is lower in the west. This is where REFLECTIX is put to best use, deployed in the windshield and driver side window (assuming your van is parked as noted) to reflect radiant gains thru glazing. Just look at Range Rovers rigged for the Sahara... they use this exact strategy.

Having spent my life in the HVAC business I know a thing or two about insulation and heat transfer. What Bob says is spot on. He doesn't give a single piece of incorrect information. In hot climates jump thru every hoop you can to park in shade during daylight hours. A radiant barrier with a one inch air gap isn't going to do 20% what shade will do to keep your van cooler. And the cooler you keep it the quicker it will cool off at night.That is gospel folks. Believe it.

When I was a kid my dad told me “beards come with years of wisdom”. Thanks for proving the legacy to be true. Much love from Seattle!

You're the kind of wild eyed sensei I'm looking for to guide me through this. Thanks!

I think he mentions this on the next build video...but, if you’re using Polyiso, just make a shallow slit ON THE WALL SIDE where it needs to bend (the Polyiso) and when you glue it up, push there. It will crack and fit the bend in the wall nicely 👍🏼

Having lived in a travel trailer for over 13 years when I worked out of town, I learned some things about staying warm or cool in a trailer. First of all I learned that reflectix used to cover the windows made a huge difference in heating and cooling the trailer, especially cooling, and I had lots of windows. During cold weather my floor stayed cold even though I had insulation under the trailer, and the cold floor made it harder to heat the trailer. I finally put a skirt around the trailer to keep cold air from blowing under the trailer and that made a big difference. Not only did my floor stay warmer but I used less propane for heating. If you move a lot a skirt around the bottom of your vehicle might not be practical, but if you stay parked for days or weeks, a skirt around the bottom of your vehicle/trailer would help to keep your vehicle warmer in cold weather though I don’t think it would be practical or necessary in warm weather. You would have to make your own custom skirt but anything that could cover the space between the bottom of your vehicle and the ground would help. Again this would only be useful if you spend extended time in cold climates.

I've learned so much from this channel and I'm getting closer and closer to my dreams of freedom.

A man with experience is NEVER at the mercy of a man with an argument. A.W.Tozer

I had to laugh at the rolling chair comment, Bob, because it hit close to home with how I found your channel. Last month I was out of work and rolling around on a computer chair because of a broken ankle. I found your channel and am now deeply immersed in learning about how to be a nomad. Also, living life rolling around on a chair and seeing people not standing to live in a van made me go, hm it can be done. Anyways, just thought it was funny I found your channel whilst living life rolling around my home on a computer chair and then I hear it in a video. :)

Finally a presenter that doesn't have pimples & a smiley chick jumping up & down with excitement! Ahhh, life experiences. What a wonderful thing. I too have read a lot, watched alot & this guy nails it except for the fibreglass bit. Sheep's wool would be excellent to use here. I can understand the negative effect insulation has in "hot" climates & vice versa. At the end of the day this all revolves around "common sense" & "knowledge". Discussion is so important. There's also valuable info from people in the comments column. Everbody has their "angle" on things so it makes this "game of chess" a little easier to understand. Thanks for a great video.

I know this is old, and I don't know if you've done a high top yet- but if you look in junkyards, you can find conversion vans that are being parted out. Highly recommend. They didn't change the body on chevy express/gmc savana between roughly 1996-2016 so there are a lot of used high tops out there... I found one and got it for just a couple hundred bucks. The hardest 4 hours in my build was pulling it off the old van and getting it home. I've since cut the roof out of my 2009 savana work van and it fit great. Easy to mount with a block and tackle and plenty of sikaflex. I have carriage bolts in a dozen places also from the frame channel up through the fiberglass footing. I've primed and repainted the whole van now. It's been great so far!!! Poor man's sportsmobile.

"when your going pooping, you need to stand up" ...Guess I been doing it wrong! Anyways, Great video really helpful advice.

What I love and truly appreciate most about your advice Bob is that it's born out of years and years of experience. Thank you so very much.

I just wanted to say THANK YOU for making these videos. I just bought my first van after dreaming about it for a long time. Unfortunately, I know nothing about van dwelling. Your videos have been so informational and inspirational for me, they are invaluable to me. Thank you so much for helping out a clueless first timer!

Nice to see a video bring up warm climates, appreciate the advice. As someone who lives in Florida and is interested in this topic, most people spend half of any conversion video talking about keeping the vehicle warm and I couldn’t even begin to relate to wanting that

Even more than two years later, "I KNOW COLD," is still a great line in all of YT!!!!!

I really like the way you explain things. You are very thorough. I always enjoy watching your videos. Thanks Bob for sharing your knowledge with all of us!

It's good see someone speaking sense about van build wall insulation.

Man I appreciate you Bob. Your channel has been a blessing to me learning how to put my van together. Thank you much.

I LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel, your attitude, your philosophy, your advice! Thank you :) I am JUST starting my van build, live in a hot area, and I am always warm. I really appreciate you sharing your experience.

Good informative video Bob. It's great for folk who are new to vehicle dwelling, or people who have limited knowledge of building/renovating. For myself, this didn't add anything to my knowledge, but it was a nice re-enforcement of what I already knew. As for insulation, I decided early that everything was going to be insulated. Floor, walls, ceiling, doors, windows, and the forward bulkhead. I even insulated the underside of my bed! I perhaps could have done without the floor insulation, but it was my first go at living in a van during the winter months, and just didn't know what to expect. So I insulated everything! I live in Alberta. So this seemed a reasonable approach to combating our cold winters. Add a wood stove, and I was quite cozy during the winter. Thanks Bob for your endless knowledge on this topic. And for giving it so freely. :)

Thanks Bob you are a wealth of knowledge. I appreciate you!

Australia needs you Bob.

I don't know if I ever thanked you for your service to boon dockets and regular campers living fulltime. I have watched your videos for at least 3 years. You have kept my dream alive during my difficult times. I hope to actually buy a cargo van next Spring and I know I'll be going back to learn rather than simply watch and enjoy.

Very Impressive Bob, Finally.. Someone who understands how Reflectix functions.. Not to mention how Thermal Transference functions.. Thank you..

This video was very helpful! Thank you for the comparative analysis of the van types and the reasons behind the potential decisions.

I'm seriously thinking about giving up big city living and moving into a van . Thank you so much for the education

Accurate info on polyiso, reflectix and thermal bridging. Good job Bob. Inaccurate info about: - No floor insulation. You must insulate all six parts of a box. - Fiber insulation is low R value, and a rodent and bug trap. Spray foam instead. - Letting the "hot out". A well-insulated van won't let the heat in. Run fans or AC or heater to regulate temperature.

Super video Bob. I am starting my own build on my cargo van and I live in GA. So no insulation for me. You have already saved me time and money! Thanks. Can't wait to see the rest of your build.

When you talk about the floors, I immediately think of cooling my van in the summer ... and not wanting my cool air going out thru the floor.

As always, you make great efforts to give a real DIY effort to complete a project. Thanks.

Good to see you get fired up and share your expertise and passion without to much apology , thank you Bob.

Awesome video, and spot-on about the nature of insulation! I'm seeing a lot of comments about keeping things cooler though. I built a van in Florida that I ended up taking to Colorado(...and who knows after this). I did some research, watched a lot of KZfaq builds, and learned from my own experiences and mistakes as I went along. I also believe that cargo is the way to go. I got a passenger van because the price, timing, and availability was just right at the time, but I almost immediately covered all the windows with radiant insulation and have yet to remove it, even here in Colorado. I did the walls, doors, and ceiling with a combination of 1/2" foam and fiberglass as well(and a little spray foam here and there), and it's definitely true that the insulation will make it take longer to heat up but will hold the heat longer. I found this to be okay for me while in Florida because I was able to stay in the van a bit longer in the morning before it got too hot, and then I'd usually end up driving it anyway. We're talking thirty minutes to an hour after sunrise at the latest before insulating and as late as 9-10 am afterward in late May-early June(90+ days that year). I also insulated my floor because I found that it wasn't the cold that was the problem, but the heat coming up from the floor, mostly after running, that would make the van heat up like an oven. Nothing like driving all day, stopping to rest, and then having the hot drivetrain and exhaust warming the van up on an already hot and humid night! This also helped a lot with sound, as I initially had nothing but metal and undercoat under my feet in some parts. If you're familiar with Florida, or most other southern states, you know how much heat the pavement absorbs on a hot day. It's not uncommon to see the roads and parking lots steaming after a quick shower. I stayed in the van for about a month in Florida, then took it through Texas and up to Colorado. My best advice if you're going to leave the van during the day in the heat is to try and park in the shade(obviously), cover ALL your windows(I bought the material and made my own custom-fit sunshades). If you're going to be in/using the van, do the same and leave the side and rear doors opened and facing Away from the sun, and use a fan if you have one. A little airflow goes a long way! Isolate the cab! This is also great for sleeping comfortably at night, and it helps keep your heat in on cold nights too. There are many ways you can do this. I found a set of thermal blackout curtains that matched my interior walls perfectly and went with that setup. Even with the front and side windows covered, you'd be surprised by the rush of heat(or cold) that pours over you when you open the curtains in the morning. Solar is also great! Leave a gap and it makes a bit of a barrier from the sun beating directly onto the roof(every little bit counts, right?), and you can use it to run vent fans to help keep it cooler. As far as the cold goes, I've only spent a few nights down into the lower 30's. I have the Mr. Heater Portable Buddy but have barely needed it on those nights. If I did use it, it was usually just for a few minutes, and then just the pilot and my body heat kept things comfortable. I'm sure colder nights will call for more, but I haven't faced them yet, and it seems like I am fairly well prepared. Hopefully, this is all helpful to someone

Omg thank you so much for this video I’ve nearly cried trying to find the correct solution and information and your the only one that has set it straight and true your a blessing in disguise you really have saved me on this one 4 months on trying to decide from all 200 channels on insulation xoxoxo

Thank you Bob for the education and rationale for everything you are saying. I totally trust your advice and appreciate how clear and reasonable your instructions are.

THANK YOU! So many van conversion walkthroughs but so few that actually get into how and why you should fashion it the way that’s best for you.

Thank you for making such a great informative video regarding insulation. I had done a little reading about conductive, convention and radiant heat transfer before watching this video but was still a bit confused as to how to insulate. Living and building our van here in Australia I had the impression (before listening to your advice) that I should insulate against the metal with XPS and would then use dual foil reflective bubble wrap (the Aussie version of Reflectix) stuck on the inner side of the foam before installing the walls, but the last 5 mins of your video was definitely the most helpful for me personally and I'm glad you mentioned hotter climates not to go heavy on the insulation because that one piece of info about how insulation can work against us in keeping the heat locked inside made a tonne of sense and was the determining factor in choosing just to insulate with just one layer of reflective bubble wrap with an air gap between it and the outer metal body of the vehicle. Your advise definitely makes the most logical sense to me and is thankfully the cheapest method also. I am hopeful it all works out well if we ever find ourselves venturing into the Aussie outback in our converted Toyota Hiace Commuter minibus. Thanks again!

very informative especially when you listen to the person who has the experience for a long period of time like him. I hit subscribe and will be watching more of your videos and learn. thank you!

I'm so glad I found you, Bob! This is my first Van conversion ever and you have calmed my nerves with your knowledge. Thank you. I'm definitely subscribed.

Once again thank you so much for your time and help.

Good discussion video, Bob, and I learned something about insulation. However, not everything you say may be correct. The stiff Polyiso, and the more flexible XPS insulation was well explained. However, you lost me at 11:34, when you said to use fiberglass batting insulation to stuff between the ribs. Other van builders said not to use this. They said that fiberglass batting works well in houses, but is a dismal failure in vans because vans have moisture condensation on the inside due to metal exterior, and the fiberglass batting soaks up and holds this moisture which turns to mold. 1. There are two alternatives to fiberglass for stuffing the metal ribs on van wall: Spray foam - cheap price, R value is high, but chemical smell takes time to dissipate. Black Sheeps Wool Batting - higher price, no toxic smell, does not get mold, good insulation. 2. Ceiling insulation and treatment: You can buy Silent Silver, or Silent Blue which are 1/8" thick rolls of closed cell neoprene (like Polyiso but very bendable) coated with mylar silver foil. It has some sound deadening, thermal, and moisture barrier properties. Stick this on ceiling, then some plastic ceiling tile that looks like metal tin tiles, paint it up and done. Quick and cheap solution for the interim period prior to raising your roof. 4. Floor solution: Subfloor plywood. Paint it. Put some plastic moisture barrier sheeting over it. Grind down slightly any carriage bolts sticking out - just a tad without compromising structural integrity. Add Silent Silver underlayment on this, taking care to tape seams well. Put in click lock bamboo engineered wood (it is real wood) from Home Depot. Tools needed is a push bar $11 and hammer and saw. No glue, no nails. Push bar is a useful weapon for self defense too. Fits like a dream. These are narrow strips, comes in a Tiger stripe natural design, and very thin layer. I did this for my Class C RV and still flawless after 5 yrs. Optional molding trim around with wood or metal on base. Floor stays nice and warm even in howling winds, rain storms, whatever. Add small carpet on top for color. What I would love to know more about is sound deadening materials. They have to be cheap, lightweight, and be effective sound proofing. Most materials sold are very pricey, and heavy. Ok for cars but not vans.

Thanks for the info Bob. I was about to use Reflectix! You saved me, Again!

You awesome Bob.... Really appreciate your input from the experience you have EARNED!

First one to explain things straight up, bravo

Best van insulation advice on KZfaq period!

Up in Canada some people put reflectix under their floor slabs. On my neighbors shop he did that and the concrete set up way faster than the finisher was prepared for. I tried an experiment on a cold basement floor. Standing barefoot my feet got cold fast. Then I stood on some reflectix and was amazed by the heat sent back to my feet. I know the difference between conductive, convection, radiant heat, and agree with you. But the sun is not the only producer of radiant heat, so radiant heat generated in the van can be reflected back into the van. Anyway, well done.

Bob is spot on here! You rock Bob!! We love u

Excellent! Thank you for this information. I'm passing it along to someone who has a van and will find this very helpful. You are a great resource.

I want to add to the discussion on your post about some pretty disgusting comments and even worse actual posts tearing people down in the most personal and horrid way. Please keep doing what you do. I live a world away and you have affected my life in the meaningful way. Those people that seek to derail what they do not understand amaze me at there lack of maturity.

This is the exact kind of channel I was looking for, thank you!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, Bob.

Thx for the extensive info on insulation dos & don'ts. Appreciate your time.

Thank you for your insight! I just learned about reflectix and I feel terrible for those who installed that in their van build thinking it would be insulation.

Mechanical engineer major here. This guy knows his heat tranfer

very impressed by your knowledge of thermodynamics...

I appreciate your videos...your candor and expertise... Thank you Bob

I've watched more than a few videos on insulation. Subscribed

I work in construction and you are 100% rite

You are right on Bob about insulation. I’m glad I watched. Thank you!

great info on reflectics and the right use of it. Thanks for sharing

Very interesting, thank you Bob. Years ago my family of origin had an RV for recreational camping, and from experience I concur with what you said about insulation holding the heat. Had an uncle insist once that I needed insulation to keep heat out in summer. I had already found out the camper was cooler without It, it was removed after water damage,, and the camper was so noticably cooler without it, that I did not replace it when we restored the camper. My uncle had good intentions, citing his expertise in insulation as a builder, but I FELT the difference, I was staying in the camper and working hard in it (physically) during the restoration which took an entire summer.

Great video Bob. I would add, to make sure you circulate plenty of dry air, in either heating or cooling cases. Fresh dry air if at all possible. Promotes comfort, and helps to avoid mold and mildew.

Thank you for this channel and all the invaluable information.

So many superb tips on this channel.

I would have made that mistake about the reflectix against the wall. Thank you sir for sharing your wisdom.

All of your experience and knowledge on insulation is so valuable to me. This is exactly what I needed to know. You've answered so many of my questions in this video Bob. Because of it I'm going to to do things very differently than I would have otherwise just guessing. Thank you @CheapRVLiving!

very useful info. That air gap hint I didn’t even consider, thank you.

Thanks for the info, Bob...am just now retiring and thinking of living on the road for a bit. Appreciate the time you put into this video!

Wow, Bob constantly blows my mind with his knowledge and delivery, another great video Bob , thx!

Totally agree about your insulation views. The only thing I would add is that if you are in a small van less insulation is fine. I have a 1/2 inch insulation in my Transit Connect on my walls and ceiling in Vancouver Canada and my van is plenty warm.

Thanks sooooo much! I just bought my van and it looks very much like yours in this video. I have the wood slats and metal cab partition. I’m looking forward to following your build!

Your expertise has saved me a great deal of time. Thank you, sir.

Bob, u tickle the shit out of me!!!!! LMFAO!!!!! While I agree with you 110% you know there are those know-it-alls out there that say different which is what you're saying. You know, you can't fix stupid! LOL. Hope you and Cody are doing great!!!! Thanks for the vid. Will.

Thumbs up. Say Bob, in regards to insulating in hot weather, all you really have to do to get the heat out at night is open the doors, or switch on the fantastic fan on your roof.

I know a lot of people will not listen to you about insulating the floor of your van. My father taught me that wisdom is being smart enough to listen to someone who knows. And I believe that you know what you're talking about. Keep up the good work Bob bless you

Thanks for breaking it down Bob. I learn so much from your videos.

You are a good teacher Bob. Don't stop talking and explaining it the way you do. That is really helpful and for some of us who are new to this, it's very valuable. Please stay the way you are! Thank you. God Bless you!

For odd spaces you might also consider Polyurethane foam used for sound isolation, has a value just under R7 and loses a little bit over the next few months, maybe down to 6. But you can spray it into whatever space you want, if you can afford the price of it.

I did know that reflectix required space, but I’ve never heard anyone explain why in such a thorough way. Thank You for sharing your knowledge!

What a legend! I’m following your directions, as best I can. My windows inserts are quilted blackout blinds with a reflectix layer against the glass, and I’m lining my walls and ceiling with polyester underfloor insulation. Kia Ora.

haha... Love you Bob! "tear up your money and throw it away.." you know a lot! owned an Insulation Company for 4 decades in high mtn. resort, spray closed cell foams, coatings, foils, blow in blanket, etc.. air infiltration is equally as important toward insulating living spaces.. cold condensing surfaces and air infiltration in a van built might benefit first layer before any build up, using a non toxic, paint/spray on coating, up to 10 mils.. it might stop all condensation from outside / inside and then insulate as required/ desired.. if anyone uses spray on/in foams, closed cell will stop moisture/ open cell will not, most canned foams for home owners tend to be open cell... also, make sure they are flame proof if anyone might run hot wires near in inside any foam used.. I love your videos and attitude! I hope to someday meet you on the road amigo.. Best wishes always!

I prefer "No windows" to "windows"...... Much more privacy.

I love your videos- You are always so clear-Thank you

your videos are so imformative thanks SOo much Joe

Stop going on about him repeating himself hes thinking as hes filming, i do this too when explaining health stuff to people i repeat to pick up my train of thought on certain subjects. no big deal so what. have some respect hes taking the time to help all you can do is make rude comments about him repeating himself. Honestly people have lost their manners appreciate hes even making them to help everyone his info is invaluable.

Listened to on 2x speed -- fantastic!

Your depth of knowledge is impressive.

many thanks for your info and thx for the indruducing different materials bob

Hi Bob, I love your channel! And here you are dam right! I've made my camper vans for over 40 years and insolation is good for cold area's, but keep the heat in at night in warm area's. My next van is comming up in a fiew months and I think of spraying foam in the beams to avoid cold barriers, but I'm hesitating for in case I have an accident. When they have to weld the pannels to repear then the foam gets in flame ... What is your opinion? Thanks for your interesting info !

I’m totally going to take your word about the floor. One question, have you noticed a difference in noise between insulation/no insulation on the floor? TYIA

Wonderful video Bob very clear and concise

I totally agree with your take on insulation. The thing everyone forgets about a van is that a van is a rolling metal box with two big thermal holes front(cab/windshled) and back(door windows). So, you're really not starting well to begin with. As a BPI certified building analyst, I have had numerous conversations explaining to people that putting reflectix directly against insulation actually reduces R value because reflectix is a really good conductor. One thing I do like in a van is rockwool insualtion, because it can be compressed, and made to fit on any nooks and crannies pretty well. I have also found aerogel to be really good for walls, though, it is still pricey. I usually go with rockwool for the nooks and foam for the walls.

Joke's on me, I came to see how he insulated the roof

I'm surprised you didn't mention spray foam. I had the inside of my 94 Chevy G30 Cargo van sprayed out for around $300. 1-1 1/2" throughout, and it worked like a charm. Even using a little buddy heater would roast you out unless you kept the roof vent open - and this was Alaska/Yukon during the winter...

Great information! Thank you for sharing and teaching !

Information about the floor is golden. I have watched many videos showing a lot of time and money spent on floor insulation.

i've been in steel shipping containers in Hawaii heat and insulated reefer containers too . The reefer (not even running) is Much cooler in the summer sun than the naked steel container . So I would say DO Insulate for hot weather . No ?? maybe its mainly the roof slowing the conduction (?)

Bob, I adore your big compassionate heart. I love watching your videos ! Just a heads up about the polyiso from a health perspective. Polyiso has methylene diphenyl diisocyanate in it. Isocyanate is an allergen and sensitizer it can cause respiratory failure. Back in the 1980's I worked with automotive paint that had toluene diisocynate and I developed a sensitivity to it. My lungs are now in bad shape. I found out that phosgene, which was used a chemical weapon during WW1, is used in the manufacture of diisocynates. If you google "Threshold Limit Values and Immediately Dangerous to Life and Health values" you will see that phosgene is 0.1 ppm (parts per million) and toluene diisocynate is 0.005 ppm. The lower the number the more toxic it is. They don't have methylene diphenyl diisocynate listed but it is in the same chemical family of isocynates. Now, only 5 to 20 percent of people develope lung issues, so just make an informed decision. Thanks for all you do Bob !

Great information. I will apply this to my Tundra Canopy and stay nice and toasty. Thank you.

Excellent info based on your extensive experience. Thanks.