Thanks for the support but the guy didn't even see your comment are liked it

@@sakibc1787 ?

​@Sakib Choudhury yeah that surprises me

That's how he got the money to get his Marshalltown... You get all the thanks in the world then! Don't worry, I guess he doesn't look comments in videos after a month...

It's absolutely unacceptable this guy didn't even acknowledge a $50 super comment. I know personally that he received a notification for this in his creator dashboard ... Really disrespectful.

I remodeled my bathroom maybe 7-8 years ago and used galvanized corner bead on the bathroom shower window, now many years later the corner bead has rusted and is bleeding thru and now needs repair, Just a thought and possibly a good use for vinyl corner bead.

I have never disagreed with him until now. My vinyl bead is going on 15 years with no issues. The steel on the other hand, has rusted in spots and is impossible to repair dents. Vinyl simply doesn't dent or rust. I have NEVER seen the issues he has shown when doing vinyl. I have also never stapled it in place. If you're a contractor wanting to knock things out fast, it "may" be a better idea but longevity it will not have.

@@richardleslie410 I have the same issue. I bought vinyl corner bead because the steel bead in my bathroom pre-remodel was rusty and coming apart next to the tub. It didn't make sense to me to replace it with the same stuff. Even the paper stuff turned me off because it's still steel in the middle.

The metal corner beads on the outside of my shower nook were all rusted, so I'm replacing with vinyl. I wouldn't recommend metal in a potentially wet spot unless its aluminum.

That's all I used, it works excellent and I don't mess with the staples or adhesive sillyness. Just tape setting mud then coat with finishing mud

Good call👍

@@vancouvercarpenter salt environment calls for vinyl. Dang metal eventually rusts thru the mud and paint.

Screws work great in wood studs, In fact, when I need to repair corner beads, its nails that have popped and not screws. Nails are a terrible option for drywall and corner bead installation.@@stevensko9153

We do the same here in Denmark. Plastic/vinyl corners are put up in just drywall mud ( Knauff). There are a few machines out there that you can use coat your corners before setting them up and using a corner bead roller. USG SheetRock and Graco I believe makes them.

Trim Tex Mud Set beads might be one of the best corner beads ever invented. Totally different than glued on vinyl. They are hard to find around here so I never use them.

@@vancouvercarpenter Not being able to buy them would put a serious damper on using them I guess

I just used vinyl corner bead for the first time, and decided to use staples. The super 77 didn't adhere in every spot somehow, so I added more staples. My staples started rusting before the mud was dry!

The rust issue can be important consideration regarding metal corners is wet situations. I had to repair lower part of partition wall in a bathroom that had rusted out the old corner bead (and some old school chicken wire for plastering). I used vinyl bead so rust would never again be an issue. It was a patch job, so 3 plus passes with mud to get it looking good.

Indeed, the application of standard staples can significantly enhance the structural integrity of the bead installations. The KZfaqr's observation regarding the ineffectiveness of staples when subjected to tensile forces perpendicular to the plane of the wall (i.e., in a normal direction) holds validity. However, this analysis overlooks the critical role of staples in forming a quasi-truss system. By establishing orthogonal connections, the staples effectively generate a series of right-angled, intersecting beams. This configuration optimizes the distribution of both tensile and compressive forces, thereby offering substantial reinforcement for the attachment of the bead to the wall's surface. From an architectural and structural engineering perspective, the utilization of staples for affixing vinyl beads to a wall surface is highly advisable, given their contribution to the overall load-bearing capacity and stability of the installation.

​@@sina1329 Simple physics, really. 😊

Sounds like a pain in the ass tbh.

It is. But when you're re-doing every wall in your house, price becomes an issue. And vinyl beads are cheap.

@@ccourt46 Not sure about you r part of the world but in mine steel corner bead is cheaper than vinyl.

I haven’t messed with one of these, but I would spray the bead only so mud can still bond directly to the drywall paper through the holes in later steps.

Here in Denmark. We put the vinyl corners up in drywall mud ( Knauff), no problems with it not sticking to the drywall. I believe that it's USG sheetrock that has a paper face bead hoppe, which can be used to coat corners prior to putting up the corners. Graco im guessing also have a machine which coats mud on vinyl/metal corners.

I think that might be the idea.

Why do you like the vinyl better? (Or, what don't you like about the metal?)

@@sawdustcrypto3987 Its harder to install but is much more resistant to minor impacts, whereas metal easily dents. So when you have little kids blasting around you will often see corner dents with metal.

I was going to say the same thing about the staples. I agree about paper covered corners and if you're doing bullnose corners and any kind of knock texture it's the best option because the mud sticks better on the paper and it will be ready to knock down at the same time the rest is. On bare metal it take a lot longer to dry. So to get the best results I have to sand it down after it's dry

@@chichidouglas5078: Metal corners were always a go to in apartments and offices as they could survive more abuse but we’d always coat them with either a setting joint compound with adhesive or a cemented product with a bonding agent as it just held up better to bumps and dings.

Nails will pop over time, I've installed vinyl with drywall screws before but glue is the best method.

If your worried about intermittent moisture causing rust (such as a garage, basement, bathroom or shower above the tile bed) You can prime steel corner bead with Bin primer before you install it. It will take many many years to rust and many more for that rust to show through the surface finish. But if you have an environment/building envelope that is often/permanently moist/damp/wet you need to either fix/mitigate the moisture issue or you shouldn't be using drywall.... Even "Mosture resistant" drywall will fail rapidly in damp/wet environments that are damp/wet enough to rust steel corner bead. The drywall and paper tape (god forbid premix mud) will deteriorate LONG before the rust showed through. If your houses wall cavities are damp enough to rust steel corner bead you need to figure out why and fix it, b/c its doing A LOT more that just damaging your corner bead.

@@grumpycat5991 Thanks. I'm a big fan of yours, love your YT channel. I live in a 100 year old house in the UK and we get a lot of salts penetrating through, so they really accelerate any rusting. In the UK it is quite normal to have damp walls in properties that old, so many of us go for breathable walls, which invariably allow the salts to pass into the plaster and accelerate any rusting potential. I have got some BIN, but I think the vinyl beads are a fantastic idea and a brilliant solution to my problems.

@@SC-hk6ui Fair enough, I lived in a 1800's farm house near the ocean that had a similar moisture situation, (complete with original seaweed "insulation" in the exterior walls). I "re-plastered" some of walls using hot mud over cement board instead of going with drywall b/c the former owner remodeled the kitchen in the 70s-80 and the drywall on the exterior walls basically disintegrated o I feel you pain.

That’s what I was thinking, a 1/4” x 1-1/4” narrow crown stapler. I don’t do drywall professionally but when I need to build or repair I like the paper faced metal No-Coat corner beads the best. The only benefit I see in a plastic corner bead is it’s less likely to get damaged at the store or in shipping to the job site then the cheap perforated metal beads.

@@heystarfish100 I haven't tried the paper faced or vinyl beads, I have just never had a real problem with the metal ones I guess

@@Neenjaboy I really like the No-Coat corners because I’m able to get the corners finished faster with my level of skill by not needing to apply so many coats over many days. I just want to get paint on the walls and get the room back in service as fast as possible. For the little extra cost it saves a lot of valuable time.

I've always thought that people using cost as an argument to use vinyl or even regular steel bead over paper metal was silly. Three coats costs more than two. Not only that but the amount extra per job to use paperfaced beads is so little the argument for vinyl being cheaper just doesn't hold water. Buuuuuut that being said some folks just see the price tag but not the big picture. I'm not talking about you by the way so this reply isn't intended to be personal.

@@vancouvercarpenter That's a good point. It's easy to see the upfront cost when buying the corner bead and prefer to go the cheaper route, but the total cost should be considered. Metal with paper seems to be the quickest way to go and time is money.

The key piece here is that you need glue and technically you need a specialty staples to "install it according the the mfg.'s instructions" which is the reason I think they were pushing it to begin with... It sells their proprietary glue and staples b/c the bead itself is "cheaper" then steel.

What about vinyl corner on paper tape?m

You can use hot mud an paper tape to make these type of no bead corners... It takes may more time then corner bead but it works and is pretty durable (esp. overhead) Take a piece piece of that thin cardboard they sell to protect floors (Like rhino board) and masking tape it to one side of the corner to form it (basically making the corner a Tee) and pack hot mud against it on the opposing side. Wait for the mud to kick off and remove the form. Put the cardboard form on the other side of the corner (making another Tee) and pack it with hot mud. Once the hot mud kicks off remove the form and damp sponge the corner to the profile you want or just wait for it to dry and sand it (damp sponge is way easier but you need to get the timing right or you will ruin the corner/round it over). Then just mud and tape each side of the corner with paper tape and hot or premix mud forming another "Tee" with with the paper tape (one side of the tape 1/4" proud forming the top of the tee) when the mud dries run your knife along the edge of the corner to trim off the proud part of the paper Tee (quick sand if needed) and apply your 2nd coat of mud to float out the corner/cover the tape edges. if you need to give the corner some more "structure" before the mud, AKA the edge of the drywall is really badly damaged has lots of voids and/or is poorly cut/abutted you can use a bead of spray foam against the cardboard form to build out the corner before the 1st step and just trim the foam (with a very sharp razor blade) once it cures to form a "square-ish" corner than pack the foam with hot mud while making the paper "tee" Once you get good at this you can dispense with the cardboard form and do the prefilling and taping step together by just using hot mud and paper tape to fill the corner and form the tee but I find that using the form make the corners is straighter faster and more consistent.