@@noobsmoke79 100% agree. Pretty bad and lazy design from beretta. Was very disappointed. I haven’t he briley on my benelli m4. I like it a lot. Hope that works out for you.

@@ddazzla27 Ranger bands are usually pretty good, but since it’s resting on the barrel, it could melt the rubber easier than the zip tie. Good thought though. Thanks for the input.

@@GearAndGuns yea I honestly didnt even think of that, I had only used them on AR15s before. It would definitely melt in no time with a shotgun

@@ddazzla27 they work great on ar15s. If the hand guard didn’t have an open top they’d work well on this too.

@@LesterBarrett-y9g thank you. Happy to help. I made a video on sling mounting that talks about it a little more. The mod 2, atleast the one I have, standard qds and shotgun qds work. Your favorite libertarian maybe a video as well modifying the front qd slot. I think the mod 1 is smaller and only fits the smaller shotgun qd’s. The one I’m using here is a standard bcm qd. It’s a regular ar15 qd. But if that doesn’t work you’ll either have to buy a qd off berettas website which are kinda expensive, or you’ll have to drill out the hole a little bigger. I think the ones are berettas websites are smaller in diameter but you might want to confirm that theirs will work with yours before buying.

@@GearAndGuns Thanks for the info. They must have changed the socket for the mod 2. I tried the MAGPUL QD. It just slipped out. I also tried the Beretta version that they sell on the Beretta website. It was also too small for the socket. The QD goes in loosely, and does not hold at all. I returned it; and they returned my cost plus tax. I had to eat the shipping, which was over $10, which was almost as much as the MAGPUL QD cost on Amazon with free shipping. I did mention the problem to their customer service, since I assumed that if I bought from them, even at a high price, the QD would fit. They have not replied to me. I don't like the idea of modifying the gun, especially since the socket is too big. I guess that I will just have to wait until someone comes out with a QD that fits. Meanwhile, I put a cheap Chinese QD on the slots; but I don't think it will last. The slots are actually quite limiting for mounting almost anything. I would be interested to hear the logic for having slots that don't fit anything on the market. I can only assume that they don't really want them to be used, but have to be there to compete with the look of other weapons. Although the 1301 is a shotgun, it seems to me that somebody could make a light for a reasonable price that will stand up to the recoil and heat. Since the weapon is light anyway, I think it would not have been an issue to add a little weight to it by providing better mounting options. One problem that nobody talks about is the fact that the battery for these lights is inline with the barrel. This means that whatever kind of spring you have holding the battery in, it is going to allow some movement of the battery with each shot. This is probably not a big problem for the spring; but it may be. The battery itself is definitely going to go through some compression stress. Somebody is going to have to make a battery that is sealed at the ends and has its contacts on a ring at each end. This would complicate battery compartments for anything that requires more than one battery in line. It would be the best solution for single battery gun lights though. Most people I have talked to seem to think that the red dot sights are not appropriate for shotguns, especially the tactical versions. That does not seem to discourage anyone from spending a lot to mount one anyway. There is no objective way to know which sight is truly suitable for the 1301. Some mounts seem to do the job; but the prices are not reasonable. At least one popular KZfaqr thinks that rear sight mounts and front sights are all doomed to fail on the 1301.

@@LesterBarrett-y9g I would call beretta so you can get a faster or more direct answer. I don’t like modifying stuff either. I figured there’s would fit. You could also buy an aftermarket barrel clamp that has a qd or sling option, I would think the aftermarket ones would fit most qd’s but you would also have to confirm that depending on who you buy it from.

@@LesterBarrett-y9g I understand your concern with battery movement and spring compression. The light will be absorbing some recoil impulse. I had some issues with the cloud defensive lights not activating, that could’ve possible been a contact issue. I think if you get a reliable flashlight like surefire, modlite or maybe streamlight, you shouldn’t have issues with that. Surefire and modlite are pretty durable and reliable and should work regardless of what gun they’re put on. I think red dots are appropriate for shotguns, I just think it’s the least necessary or unnecessary to have a red dot on. It just makes things easier lining up 2 things instead of 3. I’m my opinion using an Eotech, aimpoint t2 or p2, or trijicons Rmrs or rcr, should all be durable and reliable enough to last on the 1301. It’s when people start mounting cheaper stuff, that’s when it starts to break. There’s cheaper mounts, or you can mount to the picatinny, but scalarworks is some of the best out there and I really like there products. I prefer quality or quality, or value to performance ratio.

@@GearAndGuns I was pretty much decided on a p2 or t2; but the price is not within my acceptable range, considering my other priorities. The mount for those is over a hundred bucks. The way I look at the mount is that it is a simple manufacturing process. Very little material is required; so the cost of material is not significant. The coating logic is the same. The program to cut the item is only written once. The machine to manufacture is not prohibitive if one has other products to manufacture, considering the market size. So it is a bit pricey. For a $2000 shotgun, $100+ for a reliable mount is about fiive percent of the cost. Compare all those things to the shotgun, and none of those factors comes anywhere close to being comparable to the Beretta. With modern manufacturing, if the USA is going to be competitive again, we must be able to deliver a well-designed product that is reliable, appropriately attractive, and corrosion-resistant, among other things. Gouging the customer works for a while; but it is not the way ahead. So when these companies are more reasonable, I will spend some money on such things. Your advice is helpful. By the way, it cost me about $70 for the Beretta web site QD. You can find the MAGPUL version on Amazon for much less with free shipping. IMO, they are gouging a bit too. I would have thought that selling the SAKO QD on their web site could at least have had a note saying that it does not fit the 1301. Am I expecting too much? That SAKO is not high tech either.

That’s a good idea, I forgot about the Magpul cable management. Probably would still zip tie the Velcro regardless but thanks for the input.

@@A2DaZ210 vortex torque wrench. I have the fix it sticks too, only really use that when I need to go past 55, since the vortex only goes to 55. I like the vortex better for sure, fix it sticks doesn’t click once it’s done and the grip makes it kinda difficult to take it to 65. Wheeler also makes a decent one but I don’t have experience with that. The vortex one works well. I have a video on that torque driver if you want to see more on it.

Thank you. Unity gas cap and switch is a good choice. That’s interesting there were connection issues. Thank you, you as well!

Thank you! I understand, this stuff is pricey. Streamlight protac 2 is a good option. Your correct. Tons of lumens or candelas aren’t needed for a shotgun.

@@norman-yoshida I have a video on disassembly and oiling. If you go on my page, then go to playlists and click on beretta 1301, you can scroll down and see the video that says how to disassemble beretta 1301. Or you can just scroll down on my page.

@@gearcheck101ultimately depends on preference. I used to the scotch bright for better adhesion because of the cerakote finish. Cloud defensive tape switch would’ve put the tape switch out too far for me. I would’ve had to move my support hand to activate like light and would make shooting more inconsistent and less reliable for me, especially trying to shoot while holding the pressure switch with my hand out that far. It was not comfortable or ideal for me personally. 640dft is a great light. I prefer that flashlight for rifles though. For closer shorter lengths, I prefer the plhv2 for the higher lumens. I don’t think high candelas are necessary for a shotgun. Zip ties were less than ideal but I wanted to add some security, the Velcro was not very strong. This hand guard could’ve been a lot better for mounting accessories, beretta did a lazy job and copied the a300 patrol. They added a place to mount a light but nothing else reasonably. Ultimately up to you, just did what I thought would work best for me.