Thank you sir .Fooking Hell what a racket

UPDATE I finally went through with this project. I’d like to explain how it went for me, but for those who want a short answer, yes it’s loud as hell, and yes it sounds amazing. It does backfire quite a bit, but I’ve heard there might be a dyno jet tune for gutted cans that could help with that. Heads up that this isn’t a very good looking mod when finished. Unless you plan on doing extra cutting and then some welding which is all not shown in this video, there will be visible gaps on the back of the cans between where you cut and the cosmetic end caps. Scratching to the cans themselves is highly likely when cutting the ends off, I wouldn’t suggest doing this at all if you value the look of your cans or if they are in very good or mint condition. For those interested in doing this themselves, I have typed up basically everything I did from start to finish. I hope this helps! Tools: Phillips screw driver 5 and 6 mm Allen wrenches Ratchet 12mm socket 12mm combo wrench Penetrating oil Anti seize Reciprocating tool with “soft metal” blade File Cut resistant gloves for handling heat shields Disassembly Starting off, the bolts on the exhaust band clamp were severely rusted and in bad shape. Took awhile, but penetrating oil and a ratchet did get them backed out. Next I removed the seat and the four bolts holding the rear fairing in place and removed it as well. (Note that the passenger grab handles must be removed to take off the rear fairing). This allowed easier access to the two additional bolts holding the individual cans up under the tail. I then removed the little heat shield on the throttle side of the bike. By twisting and wiggling, I was able to remove the entire exhaust assembly from the bike. Now that it’s separated, I could remove the larger heat shields from the cans, this is done by removing two bolts then sliding the shield as they are just held in place by friction after the bolts are removed. Then the end caps can be removed which consists of removing two fillips head screws and one more allen head bolt. (The Allen head bolt will not be needed if this mod is done like in this video as it’s female receiving end will be cut off. Some people weld the structural end pieces back on the cans after removing them from the baffles themselves, but this is not shown and I didn’t do it either). The Gut With all parts removed from the cans, I then clamped the assembly to my workbench and got to cutting. Heads up, the dremel method sucks. Don’t waste the time or money with that. Same with a pneumatic die grinder. Waste of effort. I used a reciprocating tool with a serrated blade for “soft metals”. It did the job just fine, but I assume an actual angle grinder with an actual cutoff disk would be a better option if you have it. (Please note to cut behind the weld, opposite from the holes in the mufflers). The cutting is slightly deceiving, you may think you’re not all the way through but chances are you’re good. Just keep going until the whole end of the can starts to feel loose or is visibly no longer solid. With a pair of vice grips, clamp on to one of the small pipes on the piece you just cut off, and pull as hard as you can, wiggling it around as you do so. The whole baffle should pull out just as shown in the video. I was worried about this part since I heard that some people had issues with other welds in there, but I didn’t run into any hiccups of that nature. Then I used a file to soften the edges of my now hollow and substantially lightened cans before dumping the metal dust from cutting out. Reassembly First, replace the cosmetic end caps on the cans with the two Phillips head bolts. Remember, the Allen head bolts are no longer needed as you just cut off the receiving nut. Now put the large heat shields back in place, sliding them onto their seats then install the two bolts in each. Align the exhaust assembly to the rear of your bike, inserting the two pipes together and wiggling them snug until the two mounting bolts under the seat can be replaced. This helps so you don’t have to hold the weight of the exhaust while you apply antiseize to the exhaust band clamp bolts and retighten them. Replace the small heat shield by sliding it onto its mounting point and installing your single bolt. Re-install the rear fairing by centering it in the back and lining up the two pins in the back with their accepting holes. Tighten all four faring bolts, making sure to keep the two sizes separate and put back where they came from. (It’s probably a good idea to check your tail lights and turn signals at this point, since you’ll be moving those connections around with the rear fairing). Put the passenger grab handles back on. All that’s left is to put the seat back on and enjoy. I hope I didn’t leave anything out, but I’ll be monitoring my account regardless so I should be able to help with any questions y’all may have. Enjoy!

hell, everything weights a lot a VFR, especially when the tank is full, but they sure do ride smooth..................

2 out of the 3 mounting points will still remain, which is more than enough to secure them.

It's only gotten sexier...lol I've done a ton of stuff to it since I made this video! If you want to go check out just search "myadrenalinefix" on Instagram 👍🤙

no you do not, just throw the caps away

MyAdrenalineFix So I suppose you put a 200 tyre...I still do not own a VFR...I'm close to one and searching how to personalize it... Tnx a lot!!

I'm not sure what the Euro laws are regarding exhaust but I doubt it would pass an emissions and/or volume test like this. But as far as it's volume, I'd say that out of 10, if no exhaust is a 10 and sick is a 4, this mod will ke n you to a

:( i like the music

It's weldedat the end where the weld cap is welded on so when you cut the weld at the end cap to remove the end cap you can then just pull it out

@@wyattpryan ok ok thankyou. One .ore question. Do you cut behind the weld part. Or do you actually cut the weld?

@@MoBLuBSiAb4LiFe cut behind it, the end opposite from the caps, that way you remove the cap and the weld after you cut

@@wyattpryan alright thx bro

Maybe a little faster on the top end but mostly doesn't affect anything other than sound

Haha I get that alot, it's a mod I did a while back, it involves the use of a Honda car rim, an aluminum spacer, and some extended ARP wheel studs, it's fairly straight forward to do and isn't all that expensive. I have made a write up about it in great detail on vfrD so I highly recommend checking it out! Feel free to ask me any questions you have on it after reading my write up! Here's the link: www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87679-vfr800-customaftermarket-rear-wheel-modification/

:O ok !!!! I will check it

Is the rear tire a 190/17 or a 200/17 ???

And. What about the bolt pattern, what size ??

@@jesustellezvalencia5520 it's all in the write up just give it a read bro, it's a 200-50-17 tire on a 17x7 inch rim, 4x100 bolt pattern, 40mm offset. A 20mm spacer will be required with this size and offset of wheel, as well as longer wheel studs. I highly encourage you to read the write up as it goes through all of this, and even has allot of recommendations for ppl wanting to do this mod and where to start looking, let me know after you read it, if you have any questions

You have to cut on the side of the welds towards the middle of the muffler

I have a complete write up on how I did the rest wheel here: www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87679-vfr800-customaftermarket-rear-wheel-modification/

@@wyattpryan Thank's so much!!

MyAdrenalineFix thank u so much

There is no point or purpose in removing that screen in the very back inside of the exhaust, it would be very difficult to do and wouldn't improve anything for sound looks or performance

I ended up doing what you did but I also remove the screen in the back of the pipe I gutted the stock pipes but I also cut them in half the length and put them back together with the outer edges of the tips on so they look exactly like those pipes on your bike just shorter so they don't protrude past the tale and I painted it high heat black to match my wheels with rid tips it works great!

I cut the stock ones, the second half of the video shows me making them 👍

@@wyattpryan Great Job on the exhaust cans. Thanks for the quick reply.

@@peterwakefield915 no problem! They were great, a much better sound and look over stock!

As shown in the video, you need to cut them off, also, an angle grinder with a cutting wheel works much better than a Dremel

Of course nothing too excessive haha

There's zero additional heat, the only thing that changes is volume level, if you pair this mod with air box mods and a good tune you gain a few additional ponies in the upper rpm range

Yea I had done that years previously, so if you haven't that is okay, when your go to pull the ends off the whole baffle will come out with it as one piece and then you just throw all of that away

@@wyattpryan Is there a plug weld on the can itself bc my baffle is refusing to come out

@@maxwelldollar6271 did you manage to pull the baffels mine is also refusing to come out

Yes

@@wyattpryan did this mod make a considerable difference from the stock sound?

@@markomgh yes absolutely, much much much louder and wayyyyy more deep and throaty.

@@wyattpryan i cant for the life of me get tge baffle out am i missing something I cut right behind the welding like you did and the cap does not seperate from te baffle like yours

If you pull the whole thing it comes out easy, if you wish to keep the mesh along the shell of the can inside then you need to remove those welds, the entire thing is welded to the cap, so if you cut on the inside of the cap weld it will all come out with the cap

That's a really good idea, or just straight up use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel honestly... Lol

2006!

What problems did you run into? I’m planning on doing this as well and I’d like some more info. Thanks

@@gabesailer1171 if you're in the US. I'll sell you my Delkevic exhaust for cheap. Save you the disappointment of ruining your stock cans.

I am in the US. Could you message me on Instagram? @kaviarii

@@elijahdarrow3558 still wanna sell that delkvic for cheap? What's "cheap"? For that matter can u just donate it or trade for perfect oem set 🤷‍♂️

performace is about the same, there is a slight torque increase at low rpm

it unique and looks way better in my opinion, plus its wider.

Hear it in person and then create an opinion, theshitty gopro mic does it absolutely no justice, plus the bike was under no load and was only operating with 2 valves. When you're pushing it hard and over 7k rpm it sounds amazing, noy because of the "volume level", but because of the tone, the harshness, the burble, and most of all the straight up raw powerful sound of a v4 motor not being held back by overdone restrictions

I have yet to hear a single motorcycle rider from any background that has heard the bike in person tell me that my bike sounded "bad" lol and there's good reason for that 😉

Sup

It's nice to be able to ride and not be heard at times sure, but I think it sounds great, and certainly make me feel better when I happen to be in the company of super sports like a CBR1000 or YZF R1, even if I can't keep up in the twisties.

They looked amazing and sounded stellar! Sorry that you're narrow world view is so boring and limited, if I wanted two even larger cans and uglier cans on the back than the stock ones I would just put trash cans on the back instead of microns lol Every mod is not for every person, but considering how the vast majority of ppl love this mod and are doing it themselves to their bikes, it looks like you and you're terrible attitude are the outlier, so maybe next time you find something on the internet you disagree with, just move on instead of making an a** of yourself😉

There's this really cool thing called mute which is much easier to use then typing a whole comment 👍😀

Music is great btw😉

@@wyattpryan I want to hear the engine dumb ass.

@@wyattpryan *than