Thanks I appreciate the kind words. Still have another Fein Supercut to finish (waiting on parts), and an AEG nibbler that I picked up for $12 that looks to be in good condition.

Yeah some of the later models had electronic speed control, which was indicated by an "Electronic" stick on the handle. I recently uploaded a couple of vintage AEG manuals to the website where you might find some additional information: www.germantoolreviews.com/reference/vintage-tool-catalogs/ Yeah I like finding the original AEG steel cases, I actually have a couple units that are in the pipeline to be restored. The next one up is the PHD 38.

@@GermanToolReviews Not necessarily later, the speed control models were definitely available in the first half of the 70s.

Thanks! Yeah I was definitely inspired by some of his restoration videos.

Thanks for watching! If you can find it I would. They stopped making these in the 80s but I'm sure there are still one's floating around in pawn shops / flea markets etc.

@@GermanToolReviews I own one! :-)

Thanks!

Thanks for the information about your AEG drill. I thought that this was a late 1980s drill but it may have been earlier since you have a similar model from 1975. Yes it can be very hard to find information on these old AEG tools since all of the documentation was done in pre-electronic. I'm sure there is a warehouse somewhere in the world with all the manuals/schematics/drawings for these tools but the information is not available online as far as I can tell. There is some information on the 220V AEG European tools but little to no information on the 110V models. I have a couple more crusty AEG drills that I need to restore as well.

@@GermanToolReviews My dad bought an SB2E-450 in the first half of the 70s and I recently salvaged one that lost its name plate but seems to be an SB2E-650. The 650 actually looks older than my dad's 450 but not by all that much. I haven't entirely figured out the naming system but some of it is pretty clear. SB stands for "Schlagbohrmaschine" (hammer drill), E stands for electronic variable speed control and the three-digit number is the power in Watts. No idea what the 2 means. The design changes I've seen in EU models are: - housing surface (glossy on older models, matte on newer ones) - mains lead (grey rubber with black plug on my 650, black rubber with a fancy long moulded plug on my dad's 450 and PVC with a fairly standard moulded plug on later ones) - shape of the gear change knob (either like yours or without the bit sticking out, just a flat piece of plastic with the screw in the centre rather than offset, not an ideal design) There were also RL models that can turn clockwise and counter-clockwise. Standard ones had a separate potentiometer and circuit board for the variable speed, RL ones had the whole speed control and direction selector built into the trigger switch like modern drills. Those drills have beastly amounts of torque, they can easily break your wrist if you mistreat them!

I've since realised that the 2 obviously means 2-speed gearbox. Duh!

If the casing is green it's probably yellowed so much it changed from blue to green. I'll need to restore my 650 too, the speed selector only moves with plenty of force so I suspect the grease is totally hard.

Thanks! I don't often use masonry bits which is why I just had some cheap ones lying around. I picked up another AEG tool that included a bunch of "Jordan" brand masonry bits from Denmark. I'm not sure if these are any good as its not a brand I'm familiar with.

Yes I have heard of it, it is supposed to be very non-abrasive. I'll see if I can pick some up sometime. I'm always willing to try any new product that may do a better job.

well i gaveup pulling it off, may a special instrument foer pulling ball bearings would help, or just a hammer but i dont think its necessary, anyway..... please read my question before about the washer , answering might help me alot

Any #2 Lithium-based grease should do. I usually use Lucas Oil Extra Heavy Duty Grease and it has worked fine for me.

The models without E in the model number didn't have any sort of speed control, just the 2-speed gearbox. The E models were considerably more expensive I think.

Yes I know that the AEG brand name for power tools has been sort of dragged through the mud in recent years. You still AEG on a lot of industrial control equipment that is still made in Germany. But all of the recent AEG/Rigid power tools are now made in the PRC. I still have a couple more West German AEG power tools that I am working on restoring, a sheet metal nibbler and a reversible hammer drill. You surprisingly find these for quite good prices considering the quality.

Actually it was incorrect what I wrote. The AEG Powertools brand is not owned by TTI, but by Swedish household giant Electrolux. TTI has just licensed the rights to use the AEG Powertools brand from Electrolux. While Elextrolux themselves still use their owner rights to manufacture whitegoods under the AEG brand. Some AEG and Electrolux branded white goods / vacuums are identical and just sold under the two different brands depending on the countries. Just like thow other German white goods brands Bosch and Siemens are now virtually identical to each other. And all Miele freezers and and refrigerators are made by Liebherr, so Liebherr and Miele freezers and refrigerators are very similar to each other too. Before the TTI ownership another Swedish company Atlas Copco owned Milwaukee and had licensed AEG Power Tools from Electrolux.

@@ITubeTooInc Atlas Copco kept the quality of Milwaukee and AEG tools on almost acceptable level, as it was before. Nowadays all the "white" products are rubbish. Even Miele. Better to save the money and buy Haier or LG or Sharp.

Evaporust is a commercial product for rust removal. I don't think it is acidic so it is not quite like vinegar. There is an amazon link in the description and hopefully it is sold somewhere near Turkey. Thanks for watching!

Opppss.. I see...thanks alot... I can buy from amazon.de... :D thanks again...

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THESE ARE GERMAN WATTS, NOT CHINESE. SECOND SPEED IS 800 UNDER FULL NOMINAL LOAD.

NOMINAL LOAD = 400W.

They're hammer drills and not really meant for concrete, period. If you want to drill concrete you need a rotary drill hammer and even in hard brick they're helpful. They weren't really available to most DIYers when this drill was new though, much too expensive.