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Great work Tom. Expert knowledge and clear communication as always.

Really good information Tom, top guy for this sort of information 👌👌👍👍

Great info....Much appreciated! figured out the leaver part for myself but never considered the height of the nipple.

When you buy diaphrams and gaskets, even at the most professional shops, they don't tell you how to set that meter, or even suggest a metering guide for the model Zama carburator you have. Bummer. THUMBS UP!!!!!!!

You are very knowledgeable. Thank you

Well done. Keep doing what your doing. You are doing it well.

I was taught to place a straight edge over the body of the carb and look for a gap or movement of the lever. I just invested $8.50 into the gauges from Amazon. Thanks.

Excellent video mate, thanks.

Very useful information. Thank you !!!

Good show mate.

Nice video Tom, you're always so helpful. 👍

Thanks for that valuable info 😊

This dude is a master mechanic

Fantastic , thank you

Another great video Tom

Hi Tom. I’ve got three petrol 1/5 scale RC cars. Two of them are using Walbro WT-997. One car runs perfectly. One car runs rich. I had to lean out the L ridiculously lean, like 0.5 turns out just to get the engine to start and idle. I tore the carb apart but didn’t see anything obvious. Perhaps this lever was too high and it was always getting too much fuel. And the third car has a clone of the 997 made by RuiXing, and this one runs leans all the time. When I pulled this one apart the throttle butterfly was bent so it always had air which means the car was always moving. Anyway I’ve ordered the kits to rebuild them and thanks for making these videos!

Can we just add that in these Walbro WA and WT carburettors there are 2x raised ridges on either side of the metering lever. these ridges are exactly 1.5mm below the surface of the body of the carb. its the same height as the middle of the official Walbro W tool. So if you do not have the W tool, you can still set the metering lever to the correct height. The lever simply needs to be level with these two raised ridges, which you can easily achieve using the short side end of a common 30cm steel rule! But the correct tool can be had very cheap as well, even clones of the tool now exist on chinese shopping apps.

Another excellent video

Great info Luke

Nice one Tom

Completely different plant family. Not even related but you're right it doesn't matter unless someone else is listening to you and take your word for it. A bit like calling a Ford Falcon a Holden Commodore I suppose.

Beautiful Aussie wattle behind you !! Very healthy !! And great video too...!! 😉

If you were an Aussie or a Kiwi you'd understand. Try looking up GMH Holden

Thanks!

Question? Could you use pop off pressure to set your needle height?

What bush/plant/tree is behind you? It is amazing!

Question: I can't get any response on idle screw on a ms180c stihl chainsaw, carb has preset (no adjustment for h or l ) I've installed new diaphragms and it only idles high. Won't change no matter all way in or out. I took apart again and find no interferences. Any ideas? Thanks so much for your educational videos

@Vintage EngineRepairs Could you please do another short on the 200 ml bottles you use with the brass spouts? I have tried and been unable to find them again in either your videos or Amazon

does adjusting the idle screw on the carb can cause the engine to flood? i did that to adjust my idling speed and suddenly I can't start my engine.

How do you know what height to use when you have a generic carb? Sometimes people bring me a saw that doesn't have the original carb. so I have no idea what model carb came on it from the factory.

Carburaytors?

Thank you, mate

Hi i just rebuilt a zama c1q s131 carb with a rebuild kit off ebay . Your videos have been a huge help thank you sir . My stihl fs90 strimmer starts up straight away and idles nicely at tick over now where as before it was a sod to start and the tickover was all over the shop . Only problem now is the high speed is still lacking in power and it still seems to be missing ,not running cleanly . The adjustment on the high speed screw do not alleviate the problem. I have a new coil and spark plug ,gap is set correctly , the valve lash is set ,new filters ,hoses and tank vent . I did replace the zama with a very cheap (£14) carb off ebay but it only worked well for a couple of days before it became almost impossible to start , still wouldnt work after i cleaned it and checked the lever height etc which is when i decided to buy the rebuild kit . Do you think i would be better off getting a new carb ? Could the high speed screw be damaged ? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated thank you kindly

Looks like Red Corn Cobs on that Tree!! Are there many carbs with Clip-Type attachment buttons instead of just push-on buttons that contact the metering lever?

And the link to the metering lever gauges is ???????????

Interesting

Ah ha! (subscribed)

I’m 😂it’s just the same with my wife too but we are all good to be together so it’s just not that much to be having it on a Saturday morning and then it’s all the time so we just don’t know when it’s a holiday so it’s a holiday but we don’t really need a break

👍

Good one Tom ! About that tree I believe they were specifically engineered for kangaroos so they would have a way to scatch their backs yeh ? 🦘 😆