Volcano is Obsolete: Just use Nuts!

Рет қаралды 307,679

Күн бұрын

Check out our CNC Kitchen products at cnckitchen.store/ or at resellers www.cnckitchen.com/reseller and on AMAZON (EU) geni.us/s8rYtQ
What happens when you install a Volcano Nozzle into a regular hotend? Do you increase its performance, or will it perform even worse due to it cooling down more? Let's find out more!
Hotend Flow Tester Web App: hotend-flow-tester.netlify.app/
Phaetus "Volcanizer": s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEu...
Mellow Nozzle Extender: / 1554398440745930752
Website article: www.cnckitchen.com/blog/volca...
💚 Support me 💚
Patreon: / cnckitchen
Join as a KZfaq member!
Merch: teespring.com/stores/cnckitchen
Buy an Original Prusa i3 printer: geni.us/CNCKPrusa
PayPal: www.paypal.me/CNCKitchen
Shop at Matterhackers(US): www.matterhackers.com/?aff=7479
Shop at 3DJake(EU): geni.us/zHvnB
Shop at E3D: geni.us/CNCK_E3D
🎙Check out The Meltzone Podcast: / @themeltzone
⚙ My gear (Affiliate Links):
🎥 CAMERAS & LENSES
Panasonic GH5 - Professional 4k60 camera: geni.us/LMN0CmS
Panasonic GX80/GX85 - Great value system camera: geni.us/M2Sm
30mm f2.8 macro - Great Macro Lens (80% of my videos): geni.us/vEwqD
10-25mm f1.7 - Awesome Lens: geni.us/ZTBH
12-35mm f2.6 - Great Allround Lens: geni.us/S9GOsr
14-140mm f3.5-5.6 - My go-to travel Lens: geni.us/fSAyKo
25mm f1.4 - Nice prime for photography: geni.us/mqWM
🎙AUDIO
Rode Video Mic Pro - Shotgun mic: geni.us/6JFRdJ
Rode Film Maker Kit - Wireless mic: geni.us/XMD2N
Rode NT-USB - Studio Mic: geni.us/YVONvy
🔴 LIVE STREAMING
Elgatoo Stream Deck: geni.us/ppIiAL
Elgatoo HDMI USB Capture Card: geni.us/imhD
Logitech C920 - Overhead camera: geni.us/ViVgB
Follow me on Twitter: / cnc_kitchen
Follow me on Instagram: / cnckitchenyt
Chapters
00:00 Introduction
00:28 cnckitchen.store
01:16 Volcano hotend and flow testing
03:57 Flow Tests: No Fan
06:43 Flow Test: With Cooling
07:50 Insulation Tests
09:30 Temperature Variation Tests
10:17 Printing Tests
10:36 Bondtech CHT
11:07 Summary
#3Dprinting #volcono #speedprinting

Пікірлер: 682

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Do you think a Volcanizer™ is a reasonable alternative to a full Volcano hotend?

@ucirello Жыл бұрын

Seems legit!

@GilesBathgate Жыл бұрын

Looks like you could also use a modified heater block with two heater cartridges, and use the same nozzle for high flow and low-oose depending on whether both heaters or just the lower one is powered? (Although maybe it would mean the heat break is higher than optimal)

@ChamaraMokai Жыл бұрын

i think it's a good alternative to the full volcano. I am wondering what the tool is called/where did you get the tool for holding the block to help install/remove the hotend at 6:30-6:35 in the video?

@gabethemodder778 Жыл бұрын

No, the cheapest option I found for the nut was $20 or more. For less than that I can get the brass nuts or even get a volcano block. If the nut was cheaper, I would heavily consider it.

@SjengdeKameel Жыл бұрын

I've literally been using a mod like this on my CR10s5 for ages now. With a titanium outer shell and a brass internal lining press fit into the titanium. It works perfectly. I used a full brass set-up, but that lost too much heat.

@FrankBocker Жыл бұрын

Manufacturers: To get the best flow rate, you'll need a new hotend from us. Stefan: I get plenty of flow with these nuts!

@mckidney1 Жыл бұрын

He has the nuts to speak up!

@Kalvinjj Жыл бұрын

I get it being correct and thus timeless and all but still a missed chance at writing it as "deez nuts"

@LadyTea Жыл бұрын

@@Kalvinjj Deez nuts give you superior performance.

@tankmlee Жыл бұрын

@@Kalvinjj Stefan: check out my new hotend idea, I call it deez Manufacturers: I've never heard of that method, what is deez Stefan: Deez Nutz

@valian8985 Жыл бұрын

enough nuts can solve every problems

@yourt00bz Жыл бұрын

Best cooking show on tv

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Thanks 🍔

@PilotPlater Жыл бұрын

keeping track of this amount of data and then presenting it in a video like this is incredible. Great work Stefan!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

For this one it was really tough tbh. I hope I still was able to bring along the main points.

@legalmechman Жыл бұрын

@@CNCKitchen for even a newbie like me, you do an excellent job explaining the data and real world uses! Thank you so much for all you do!!!

@andreyansimov5442 2 ай бұрын

He is just a scientist.

@rustymustard7798 Жыл бұрын

Even if it only performed as well as the stock nozzle, it's good to know i can at least use a volcano nozzle to get enough clearance to experiment with stuff like nonplanar and sequential printing, which would be great for a few projects i'm working on.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Great point! Removing the hex might make it even better usable for this application.

@livewiya Жыл бұрын

I was also thinking about how it allows you to increase the gantry height in your slicer settings, allowing you to print slightly taller items 'one at a time' instead of 'all at once' when printing multiple items.

@dpear3 Жыл бұрын

I don’t even own a 3D printer but I’ve followed your channel for a couple years. I just get excited to see new videos because your testing methodology, data analysis, and engineering is top notch.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Awesome! Thank you! Appreciate it.

@brianmi40 Жыл бұрын

At $69 delivered for a Ender 2 Pro off ebay as an "unrepair" (a customer return, mine had never even been assembled), what's holding you back? Ender 3 pro's are $79 delivered, same unrepair customer returns...

@eccomi21 Жыл бұрын

@@brianmi40 maybe he just does not have the usecase. if you do not tinker a lot or are not interested in novelty or minifigure prints, affordability/availability does not matter.

@brianmi40 Жыл бұрын

@@eccomi21 for sure, was just informing that Covid has led to all time best deals on printers…

@SianaGearz 2 ай бұрын

@@eccomi21 But with a 3D printer you always have something to tinker on: the 3D printer itself, especially if it's cheap, a little flawed, and not locked down against modifications. It's an ideal hobby.

@suromark Жыл бұрын

I've squeezed a bit more performance from my DIY "volcanoid" solid copper hotend by adding high temperature thermal paste (400 °C stable) to fill the air gap in the threads. (Don't use regular thermal paste)

@TechGorilla1987 Жыл бұрын

I see what you did there. :D

@aurimasknieza7320 Жыл бұрын

Would automotive copper grease do well in such application?

@mckidney1 Жыл бұрын

@@aurimasknieza7320 no it serves the opposite effect. But do not worry your printer is nowhere near such sensitivity that paste will be needed. Such a printer would require Slicer to adjust PID settings based on flow rate.

@cutterboard4144 Жыл бұрын

what is the high temperature paste made of?

@suromark Жыл бұрын

@@cutterboard4144 I searched for thermal paste that's made for high temperature sensor mounts (exhausts, heater etc.), found a company that sells 5 gram syringes of that stuff. It's labelled "TG 20031" though that might just be that company's product ID and not a general term.

@MattSitton Жыл бұрын

I'd love to see this tested with the newer CHT volcano nozzel

@coced Жыл бұрын

Yes is it that new ? i can't find any review of it !

@cozmo4694 Жыл бұрын

@@coced I only saw it recently while looking for a hotend for my SR, with no reviews

@ianbruene1529 Жыл бұрын

CHT Volcano nozzle on a Dragon HF. "How much flow can you get?" "Yes."

@powerstroke01 Жыл бұрын

Im tempted to buy a few. They seem interesting.

@JamesElise160 Жыл бұрын

I have a volcano cht on my voron, the performance difference over the standard volcano I had before is significant

@PMcDFPV Жыл бұрын

I love how you are like "look at all the awesome stuff others are doing" ...... "Lemme show you how to do it on the cheap but still quality" You are very appreciated good sir!

@hughessay1372 Жыл бұрын

Use a piece of silicone tubing to insulate the exposed nozzle threads.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Good point.

@802Garage Жыл бұрын

Just had a great idea: Simply buy some 6 or 7mm ID silicone tubing, slide it over the exposed volcano nozzle, and cut to length. Or buy 10mm or whatever is necessary to slide around the nuts. Super simple insulation against the cooling fans that's cheap and easy to remove.

@BeefIngot Жыл бұрын

Just saw the insert soldering tips. Those things are bangers, especially since they advertise M900 compatibility which previous tips I've seen don't seem to cover due to incorrect lengths which I've seen others say burns out ceramic heaters. Basically an instant buy. I can't believe no one has made this product given how relatively simple it is. It doesn't even have the type of price premium I'd have expected.

@ivanholubec Жыл бұрын

For hotend heat isolation I use teflontape for water pipe sealing. Cheap and common. Result is amazing.

@glennlilley867 Жыл бұрын

Stefan, your suggestions worked perfectly for me. I used a Volcano long nozzle on my Ender 3V2 with 2 brass nuts to lock against the hotend block. After adjusting the Creality touch sensor and re-setting the Z-offset, it printed my test square perfectly. I've not made any redirect for the cooling air so it might require a little re-direction so that the air is pointing to the nozzle tip (as standard) and not on the extension. Next step is to turn up a bit of brass and make a silicone sleeve to optimise heating. It was always a pain to visulaize the printng process, now I can see the extruder perfectly on very small prints. Thankyou!

@toxiccan175 Жыл бұрын

Dude, that’s nuts!

@andreyansimov5442 2 ай бұрын

😂

@macelius Жыл бұрын

High-flow hot-end manufacturers: "Aww nuts!"

@Balorng Жыл бұрын

Cool, did pretty much exactly that and got +60% more flow. P.S. With hardened steel volcano nozzle there much less of an effect w/o a brass nut, which makes sense.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Good job!

@djddm8760 Жыл бұрын

@@CNCKitchen could you explain how to adapt the z probe for auto bed leveling and z homing when making the nozzle longer?

@MakersMashup Жыл бұрын

When I saw the thumbnail I thought oh geez. But like always you backed it up with data and showed your work. Great job. This opens up a ton of options for printers that lack the ability to easily replace heater blocks. I'll def give this a go.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Doing my to show what work or not. Have fun playing around with the idea.

@BenSycha Жыл бұрын

Always love a bit of data challenging preconceptions. To me this raises an interesting option with non-planar 3d printing if it ever takes off. If you need more clearance from your print head assembly to get the angles you want just use the volcano nozzle and nut method.

@dave20874 Жыл бұрын

This is going to change how hot ends and nozzles are designed. Great work, Stefan.

@mattieo2844 Жыл бұрын

Volcano : you need us for high flow rate Cnc kitchen: you're nuts

@ninthm00n Жыл бұрын

Your data and testing are second to none. Thank you Stefan

@HoffmanEngineering Жыл бұрын

This is an incredible amount of testing and the data is displayed clearly. Very nice work, thanks for experimenting and sharing your results!

@wingspan7763 Жыл бұрын

Nice job on the lead free brass inserts. Was looking for those and couldn't find them anywhere

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

We're happy that we decided to go that route. Great that you like them.

@xhappymasksalesmenx4092 Жыл бұрын

Stefan:”you know what increases flow rate?” Manufacturers:”our new ho-“ Stefan:”DEEZ NUTS”

@Jynxx_13 Жыл бұрын

I always wondered about using a v6 nozzle in a mk8 heat block because they stick out so far. Great video and info!!

@notravstar Жыл бұрын

I love nuts! Wait...

@Piction3D Жыл бұрын

hold on

@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart Жыл бұрын

I love nuts!

@jaredkrivin6204 Жыл бұрын

This is a great experiment, and the results are very surprising, I was thinking of changing the hotend on one of my printer to a volcano, but if you can get similar, if not the same, results by just plugging in a volcano nozzle, maybe I don't need the volcano hotend after all, thanks Stefan!

@tseckwr3783 Жыл бұрын

I encourage you to continue your well-done videos. Always packed with information on 3d printing.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Thanks, will do!

@LuxGamer16 Жыл бұрын

Would love how a volcano nozzle with a diy vulcanizer and CHT mod would perform. Thank you for the video, really appreciated!

@VagabondTE Жыл бұрын

Hypothesis: There may not be very much of a heat gradient. Yes there will be a drop off in heat towards the nozzle because it's farther away from the heater. However, the filament is coming from above and closer to the heater. With the filament moving the temperature might be a lot more balanced throughout.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Indeed. And it might even carry some heat with it. I need to simulate that at some point.

@hate-conductor 10 ай бұрын

This is not true. I did as he said. The printer does not print at the same temperature because the hotend is too cold. I managed to get it to print at a temperature of 10 degrees above normal. Only in this case it is completely incomprehensible what was the point of fencing all these crutches, if you could just raise the temperature.

@VagabondTE 10 ай бұрын

@@hate-conductor You're misunderstanding the experiment. He wasn't printing. He was running flow tests. He keeps the temperature the same throughout the video in order to find and measure the difference between the methods. If you tried one of these methods then, yes, you may need to increase the temperature to get consistent prints again. However, since you didn't say anything about flow or print speed it doesn't make any sense to call these methods "crutches". You might be able to print at a higher speed and not realize it. Or it might not work because of your machine and setup. None of this is a guarantee. Also nothing you've said disproves or even addresses my hypothesis. Nothing here at all measures heat drop off.

@MuhammadRFabio 7 ай бұрын

@@VagabondTE i have tried this method with 0.6mm, 0.8mm. and even 1mm nozzle size and it rarely prints well, clogging seems to be an issue, increasing the temperature exacerbate the problem, I use both brass nut and regular nut and both produce similar results, I gave up using this method and go back to regular nozzle

@VagabondTE 7 ай бұрын

@@MuhammadRFabio What method? I didn't suggest any method.

@zarster Жыл бұрын

Awesome! Would love to see how this works with 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles

@somethingelsedoesmatter Жыл бұрын

Nice to see the CHT nozzles hold their own. I should probably get around to installing mine... Been sitting there for months.

@KingBeetle1966 Жыл бұрын

I went to the hardware store today and picked up a handful of 6mm x 1.0 nuts. I filed the contact surfaces of a single nut flat, screwed it onto a 0.6mm volcano nozzle, and mounted it on my standard E3D hotend and heater block. The results have been amazing! I have been able to push my delta printer to 120 mm/sec speeds without any flow problems. I'm sure I can probably go faster, but considering that your method has already allowed me to go from reliably printing at about 70 mm/sec to 120, I am super happy! Thank you for the great video and for all of your careful research on this subject.

@figurefight9900 Жыл бұрын

This video saved my qidi tech x plus from getting dumped, bless you kind sir.

@TikTik. Жыл бұрын

Your latest videos are just mind-blowing!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Appreciate it!

@percurious Жыл бұрын

Very great deep dive investigation once again - just what one expects when stepping into the @CNC Kitchen ;-)

@4thfrom7 Жыл бұрын

This video addresses a question I asked myself not even a week ago. I gave up on finding out the difference between the Rapido hotends and thought I'd never get a satisfying answer. Thank you for proving me wrong. Fascinating!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Happy to hear that! You probably wasn't the only one curious about the inner workings.

@tttuberc 9 ай бұрын

Wow great data. Thank you for all the tests and making the great presentation

@tankmlee Жыл бұрын

I rely on your videos to print faster and better, this information is extremely helpful, thank you

@Tome4kkkk 7 ай бұрын

5:30 I found your video researching whether I should cut my nozzles to prevent them from protruding from the heater block! :D

@marcfruchtman9473 Жыл бұрын

Thankyou. Always great to see ways to increase performance.

@Jonbob836 Жыл бұрын

i very much appreciate your detailed scientific approach to anything you test. great video and interesting results!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@jackbrobst7559 Жыл бұрын

I have had such a hard time finding good heat set inserts, this is perfect timing!

@JohnOCFII Жыл бұрын

Fantastic video, and really interesting research and results!

@Mwwwwwwwwe Жыл бұрын

Super"volcanoiser" would be cool- only problem being its a really long" lever" if it snags on a print

@pietmanmauer945 3 ай бұрын

I did the Volcanizer mod on my printer with a 0.6mm nozzle on a Ender 3 v2. Works great and shaved so many hours off my prints and still looks great. I used a m6 steel nut and spacers with thermal compound between each for isolation of the brass nozzle. I mostly print functional bigger parts and for my application great mod!

@ZantZ Жыл бұрын

Funny you made this video. I put a new hotend on my Vyper and the nozzle sat to high where the z end stops would hit before the nozzle hit the bed. So I put a volcano hot end in and it worked good. Very nice video.

@chrisnatale5901 Жыл бұрын

This is my favorite 3d printing channel because of practical, scientific info like this. Thanks for sharing!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoy it!

@Dr3DPrint Жыл бұрын

Cool… Wonderful test! Thanks, Stefan!!!

@calaphos Жыл бұрын

I've been running exactly this setup for a while now, didn't have any issues with it even at high flow rates (20+mm3/s) Only problem I had is that a strong part cooling fan can mess with sensitive thermal runaway protection in Klipper. Relaxing settings a bit there helps though.

@BRUXXUS Жыл бұрын

Super fascinating! What a simple concept with impressive results.

@elvinhaak Жыл бұрын

Nice to see this tests. I have had such a setup a long time ago but never really tested its performance (yet) but found the replacing of standard nozzle with vulcano worked well except for the loss of Z-hight. So after a while it was replaced again with a standard nozzle on that printer. I had planned to replace one of my printers with a vulcano - with your real testresults in mind I will probably just replace the nozzle now. Thanks!

@snympi Жыл бұрын

Excellent work Stefan.

@g.s.3389 Жыл бұрын

I just installed a volcano nozzle on an original CR10, I added also klipper with RPI, bl-touch and locked the bed with nuts. Let me tell you that the best improvement on quality and speed came out after using the Volcano. I cannot believe how good are the prints now, and so fast....

@WhamBamSystems Жыл бұрын

What amazing testing! As always you shine a light on things too many of us take for granted, and back it all up with scientific method, thanks!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Thank you! Mutant helps me here as well 😉

@ShadowDrakken Жыл бұрын

I want to see more advancement in hot ends. Things like the Revo that wrap the cartridge around the nozzle, and other novel experiments. It's so frustrating trying to adjust a traditional hot end

@jimmym2719 Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for your revealed experiment and lots of testing and I learned a lot from your interesting & wonderful videos.

@keatoncampbell820 Жыл бұрын

These melting zones are getting so long I'm expecting a screw to pump it and a screen halfway down the nozzle any day now lol

@mckidney1 Жыл бұрын

Low it, nozzle so long extrudes will start skipping

@keatoncampbell820 Жыл бұрын

@@mckidney1 that's what the screwpump is for 😎

@LostInTech3D Жыл бұрын

Haha - and I thought the cheap mellow branded nut thing I bought on aliexpress was a joke. I guess I better take it seriously now! 😂

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Seems to be working. I wouldn't have expected it to be so efficient.

@GregAtlas Жыл бұрын

I'd like to see a similar video showing differences between different wattage heater cartridges. For example: I find the standard 30 watt heater cartridge to be too weak to reliably run a Volcano, but now that there is a 40 watt and now even a 50 watt from Slice Engineering, it would be interesting to see how they affect performance even on a standard heater block.

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

That's definitely on my list!

@filanfyretracker Жыл бұрын

Slice apparently even has a Magnum+ that can use two 50W. I dunno who needs 100W in a printer unless you are high flowing some very high temp materials.

@GregAtlas Жыл бұрын

@@filanfyretracker The 80 watt sure is a beast with the super volcano, but it would be nice to see if we could get similar specs on a hot end that doesn't have such an extreme lever arm or maybe a shorter melt zone (for oozing purposes).

@haenselundgretel654 Жыл бұрын

Wow! Again just awesome and massively helping me!

@MrBaskins2010 Жыл бұрын

This is pretty genius. I recently went full volcano on all my machines last winter

@germas369 Жыл бұрын

This is awesome. Im sure somebody has done this previously in the past, but i love seeing people experiment with their printers now adays, even with such a saturated market for all sorts of proprietary accessories and upgrades for 3d printers.

@sethviloria3602 Жыл бұрын

first the cr-10 upgraded with volcano heatblock, then the diy cht nozzles, and now volcanizer. i know volcano heatblocks and nozzles are already cheap nowadays, but man the accessibility of your solutions and mods are just an armlength away, and you've got the data to prove it! also, tom's video on the 0.6 nozzle makes a lot of sense too. i wish there were more stefans and toms in the community. keep the reprap spirit alive!

@wiktorzajac1251 8 ай бұрын

Thanks to your video I change regular mk8 0.6 type nozzle to volcano(fake one) 0.6 nozzle with two steel nuts. It's insane that i went from max 12mm³/sec to near 25mm³/sec and above this values filament forms in something like spring under extruder toothwheel ! Thank You - its working brillant !

@Accessgp Жыл бұрын

Two days ago I was faced with blocked nozzle on my ender 3 pro and did not have any more spare nozzles, hence I used a more commonly available nozzle as it has the same thread but longer. So I reduced the threads in the heartbreak and used that to compensate for accommodating the workaround nozzle and interestingly I got the same perfect print resolution and finish. Very same concept to what you have explained. I totally agree with you on this concept

@BillBaran Жыл бұрын

This is incredible, thank you!

@darklord14 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the content, I always enjoy your investigations and findings 😁

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Appreciate it!

@schwuzi Жыл бұрын

Awesome findings Stefan!! Now hear me out, I have an idea for a quick follow up. Use one of your modified volcano nozzles you made for the DIY CRT nozzle video and use it with the brass nuts. The ones with the copper wire inserted in it. Those results could be even higher and it would be cheap to make a really high flow nozzle.

@ThantiK Жыл бұрын

LOL - the Phaetus Rapido UHF does this and it works wonderfully! Edit: Aaaaaand I'm an idiot - that's where you got the idea from!

@BloodSteyn 6 ай бұрын

This is pretty cool and valuable information. Thank you for doing all this crazy stuff and keeping us well informed. o7

@itayst Жыл бұрын

I love your work Stefan! I recently bought a Rapido UHF and was surprised to learn that for the extra price you pay you get basically…a nut (plus a volcano nozzle).

@CentaXBerlin2 Жыл бұрын

and the 2nd silicone sock. HF and UHF version did cost exactly the same at the store I ordered. With the HF version you receive an extra hardened steel nozzle instead of the UHF stuff.

@itayst Жыл бұрын

@@CentaXBerlin2 oh right the long sock.. I guess a hardened nozzle would be a better choice for me, if I had the chance to choose that (ordered from AE a while ago)

@rcmaniac25 Жыл бұрын

Fascinating. Amazing job Stefan.

@Lozzie74 Жыл бұрын

Volcano lawyers: “Please stand by for a comprehensive message explaining our concerns”

@MrGlobalSuccess Жыл бұрын

Love the less toxic products!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Thanks, we're happy that we decided to go that route.

@JohnBarronII Жыл бұрын

I think its time to test 0.6mm nozzles!!! I'm all in for this testing!!!

@astrolemonade349 9 ай бұрын

Thank you for creating these videos! What digital caliper do you use?

@klave8511 Жыл бұрын

Great content as usual. Thanks. I recently covered my soldering iron to prevent my fingers getting burned by the long exposed heating section (cheap soldering iron). I used car exhaust tape, basically glass tape with some high temperature adhesive impregnated. The adhesive becomes like glass when heated and the hot part is well insulated, or better at least. The tape wrapped around my soldering iron now gives me more warning and time to yank my fingers away. I would think that high temperature fibre glass tape as used in stoves and other heating element wiring would nicely slip over the long nozzle and reduce cooling from the fan

@TheTeknikFrik 11 ай бұрын

Inspired by this video, I did another variation of this. Screwed the volcano nozzle completely through my Ender 3 V2 (MK8) hotend, then a long (about 10 mm) M6 nut to couple the nozzle to my bi-metal heatbreak :)

@Yukicanis Жыл бұрын

Wow, this is nuts! :D

@TheMadManPlace Жыл бұрын

The best thermo-conductive material to use for the block would be pure copper but that would create a problem trying to move a heavy chunk of material around. The latest "next gen" machine designs are able to move a lot faster with a lot more control and stability than say ever 5 years ago, so even while swinging around significantly heavier extruders and their steppers so maybe they will be able to keep the mass of a copper setup under control??? Copper would also act as a bigger "heat reservoir" which would speed up the local transfer of heat to the nozzle melt chamber when new plastic removes the heat by absorbing it. This could very well reduce the time to melt the filament. As above, aluminium nuts would perform better than steel ones as far as mass moving around is concerned. Also, apply thermal paste (like that used on computer CPU's) to the faces of the nuts and block to help the transfer of heat from the block into the nuts. Modern high performance car engines with big turbo's use a ceramic coating on the exhaust pipes to help lower the amount of heat that is radiated from the exhaust pipe so why not ceramic coat the heater block and nuts? As far as I see it, the problem is getting enough heat to the area that is the melt chamber fast enough so that the filament is able to melt without causing too much heat gradient in the thermal heater block around the area that is adjacent to the melt zone. Come on Stefan, FIGURE IT OUT !!!

@charlie_lee_rhee8866 Жыл бұрын

The virgin Volcano vs the Chad VOLCANIZER™️

@nunovicente34 Жыл бұрын

Awsome video as always! Would be could if you could also compare the flow gain with copper plated heatblock and nozzle

@0lympy Жыл бұрын

I would suppose that effect might be related to the bigger real temperature at the nozzle. I know, that you kept the measured temp same, but you might have changed the heat capacity of the system with all these additions, so old PID parameters resulted to a bigger real temperature, which affected extrusion results.

@jaro6985 Жыл бұрын

PID parameters being slightly off is not going to increase temperature at the nozzle significantly.

@slidr9442 Жыл бұрын

Can´t wait to see the ultra nozzle (long nozzle in volcano with extra heat conduction bars inside and so on)? Great work again!

@garagemonkeysan Жыл бұрын

Super interesting video. That was a ton of research and documentation. Mahalo for sharing! : )

@nunosantiago6720 Жыл бұрын

Hej Stefan, great video as always. I'm thinking maybe the copper plated steel or brass nuts mostly act as an insulator when using cooling. Also, great to see the regular CHT beats even the Volcanizer. Just let us know in case you also want to ompare all the above against using a full Bondtech CHT nozzle for Volcano..

@smoothbraindetainer 6 ай бұрын

Steel yes, brass no. Vastly different thermal properties

@rondlh20 Жыл бұрын

Excellent job, thanks!

@3DMusketeers Жыл бұрын

Point definitely proven! Very cool numbers Stefan! Great thoughts, easy to understand and digest too. Nice work!

@CNCKitchen Жыл бұрын

Much appreciated! Happy to hear that the massive amount of data was somehow understandable.

@vincentbarkley9121 Жыл бұрын

Another great one Stefan. Thank you.

@kevincrossland1898 Жыл бұрын

That's just nuts!

@derrickwilliams2903 Жыл бұрын

Great video. Thanks!

@timg.413 Жыл бұрын

You've done a number of videos now on high flow set ups that I've greatly appreciated. However one thing I think that would be great to see is how these various high flow setups perform in an intricate print with retracts, z hops, short layers, etc. It'd be really cool to find a high flow setup that also happens to accurately perform the chimney(arguably one of the most difficult area's of the speed benchy) as well as it performs the rest of the boat.

@avejst Жыл бұрын

great video as always 👍 impressive test thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃

@thehillbillyengineer3795 11 ай бұрын

You are a Saint. Sharing experienced practical knowledge. I see it brings you and others joy. Very inspiring. Now off to wrap some copper (16ga house) wire around some nozzles and twist it snug with pliers. Inspiring indeed : )

@koolkevin2357 Жыл бұрын

You've shown, what I try to do every project. Take what you have and find a way to make it better (that just what the MFGs have done!) to suit your needs. Thanks for all the great details!

@Josh784 Жыл бұрын

The Phaetus/DropEffect XG is an interesting concept, going in the opposite direction and reducing the mass of the nozzle but using a circular element that encases it.