Of course g 😎 glad it helped

😩

Thank you sir the kind words mean a lot… the software is proving to be quite the headache 😅

I am working on installing a micro squirt on a Ducati using a Raspberry Pi powered dash. It’s taking a while but I’m getting there.

100% I had the battery removed for the whole process until I was ready to start good tip

Thanks!! Appreciate the support

😎

Sounds like quite the project!! Good luck

Thanks man!! Love the videos, yours helped a bunch!

@@max._jolley Awesome! Glad to hear it helped somewhere.

Thanks! Would’ve been a lot easier if the car was lh2.4 yeah

Thanks!! I’m glad it was able to help

Could you link that hall effects sensor and gear please?

Both are diy auto tune the gear is the 6 3/4 32-1 and the sensor is the black one with the red white and black wires

I’m hoping to soon!! Thank you!

Ow I forgot to ask ! How much boost are you running on your originally NA b230F engine ?

Thanks!! I really appreciate it. This has been a slow project for me just because of life so all of my answers are gonna be iffy. I would love to share the tune but it isn’t done and isn’t good I would feel bad if something happened to your car on a very rough tune… I’m hoping to one day post it somewhere either on KZfaq or elsewhere when I get it running well. I got it from another youtuber! Also, I’m planning on running 10-12 pounds of boost but that will come with the tuning… won’t have a good amount of time until late spring then I’ll hopefully be able to get you some better answers!

I’m currently not running one but I plan on adding one… you can’t use the lh2.2 one you have to use one from a 2.4 car because it’s two wire instead of three

@@max._jolley ah thank you, that's good to know

Love it! Yeah it’s a pain but in glad this video has helped a bunch of people. I got my wheel and sensor from DIYAUTOTUNE.com along with pretty much everything else

Got it from another youtuber

Nope, I removed all of the original ECUs

Yes! Coming soon

@@max._jolley sweet, im planning on doing a +t and a microsquirt all at once

@@max._jolley thought of something else, how did you wire it to the gauge cluster ie tach speedo and any other oem gauges if you have any

When you turn the key does the starter crank? That was a simple stupid problem I had that the microsquirt was all good but I hadn’t connected the Volvos starter wire… if it’s something else dm me @max._jolley on ig and I’ll happily run you through whatever is goin on!

Well

That’s awesome man I’m glad it could help!!! Not gonna lie I went to college and don’t have my car so after finishing the install I haven’t spent much time on tuning. From what I can say learn auto tune because that seems to be very beneficial and then follow me on IG @max._jolley

There isn’t one on all models… if mine had one then def yes would’ve done that

Fly wheel sensor can not be used

Video coming soon… my internals are stock and I’m aiming to run about 10 pounds

@@max._jolley 10 pounds with na compression should feel sick

Haha yeah no problem! It was just too easy, relatively cheap, and I had problems with two distributor hall sensors so I was fed up haha

@@max._jolley i had to look up multiple videos to check how it worked. Now it's interesting because im everything related to the red block, i always heard not to go with the older blocks, the non squirter blocks, yours is the first turbo, i assume not squirter because of the distributor, because most of the newer blocks have the distributor on the cylinders head. Has worked good for you the set up? It's also true that theres not enough info about microsquirt with the older volvos, i saw another video with a green station wagon and if I'm not mistaken in one of the 3 cables they had too put a resistance on the hall sensor to make ot work. I have replaced a good amount on my car and yet haven't been able to use it. I have issues with the ignition, discovered that part of the problem was the faulty hall sensor. But there some other issue and that's why i just think it's better to re do the wiring. It's 84 known that earlier models had electrical issues.

Just a GM 3 bar

Independent control of timing and fueling and a bunch of other engine metrics… mostly beneficial for the turbo I added

@@max._jolley oh okay. So only really used for tuning

6 3/4

What does the white lettering say on the 124 spark diagram

I completely explained what I was tryna say wrong because I didn’t fully understand it so disregard that part 💀💀

I’m running batch injection on a 3 cylinder SeaDoo. It’s fine. Fuel only goes in to the cylinder while the intake valve is open. It can puddle up on the back of the intake valve but as soon as air is moving it all gets blasted in to the cylinder. Mine idles nice and smooth