The best solution for a Volvo Penta is to use an cast iron exhaust elbow. A stainless, brass or bronze will destroy your heat exchanger over time.

Thanks for the info. :)

Yes Tom you are right, the best thing is just to switch it out with a new elbow instead of cleaning it. But a lot of engines is also running with poor injectors there is clogging up the elbow in a year or two, resulting in a overheating engine.

@@twiper Sure Tino, we don't disagree. Please remember to try to press/punch (gently) thru the cylinder within the elbow in the bottom of the water-inlet when inspecting the elbow.

Tak :) - ok, ja var faktisk overrasket over at min albue ikke var stoppet mere til.

The problem with INOX is you get a long lasting elbow but it will destroy your heat exchanger fast due to galvanic corrosion, the aluminium will simply get eaten up fast. The only way to prevent it from happening is to mount an anode inside the system, someting there is non existing on most volvo penta engines.

@@twiper hi tino! As far as I know, original stainless steel (inox) elbows are also being sold in some volvo penta dealers (perhaps they solve the problem with using anode slave.) Sea water flushes through the heat exchanger into the elbow, so there is a risk of galvanic corrosion, that is right. But, after you shut down the engine, there will not be any water in the elbow by means of siphonage affect. Maybe corrosion risk will just be in running time of engine. My friends have been using inox ones for at least 3-4 years, and no sign of corrosion in elbow nor exchanger. On the other hand, I replaced my elbow in bad condition with the original cast iron one last year, and I have badly clogged elbow again and eaten aluminum manifold (since splashing sea water from clogged elbow.) And according to volvo penta tehcnicans, we should replace our cast iron in every 2-3 years. I am not sure they last for 10 years as you mentioned in video. The other defect in the original cast iron elbow is the sea water hole on it is too close to the exhaust manifold. If you make your inox elbow in CNC, you may get the hole such as 10 cm away from former hole point (through the silencer, there is enough clearance). Thanks a lot for your nice videos again🙏👍👌

@@sedatdemir3340 The INOX elbow has contact with the heat excharger through the bolts, so if mounted it will create galvanic corrosion all the time. Think the location of the sea water hole is made due to cooling of the exhaust elbow. The exhaust fumes can easily reach 700 Celsius at load. If your elbow clogg up too fast something is wrong with the combustion or maybe the thermostat is faulty and the engine doesn't get hot enough and then you get a bad combustion and soot will build up.

@@twiper I will check termostat up as soon as possible. In my message, there is wrongly worded sentence about sea water hole of elbow. I'm wrong, the hole point must be the same, but the length of the elbow through the silencer may be 10 cm longer in cnc roject, Lest sea water might splash back. By means of bolts, there is connection connection Exchanger and Elbow, right, and will result to corrosion while the flow of salt water (sea) is going on. I think, after engine stop, since there is siphonage, there will no sea water, there will not be risk of galvanic corrosion risk any longer?

@@sedatdemir3340 Yes the thermostat can be the cause to the soot problem. On engines where there is original mounted INOX elbows you also see zinc in the system to protect the aluminium. As on eg. Yanmar and Beta. Yanmar elbows has then another problem than rust, they crack... and yes regarding the Volvo INOX elbow I see the point with the enlarged exhaust pipe to protect against splashing.

Jeg brugte Motip primer til jern samt Volvo Penta "Touch-UP paint" green matte 1141566

Ja jeg ved at jeg sagde "svovlsyre" som er forkert, jeg rensede den i kaustisk soda blandet med lidt vand og lod den stå natten over. I følge diverse sejler forums er det kaustisk soda man bruger til rensning af disse udstødnings knæ. Har dog set "Sailing britaly" rense hans udstødnings knæ i saltsyre som virker særdeles godt, se videoen her : se ved ca. 9.18 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rq2PndBnydfNe5c.html Ved ikke hvad der er bedst men kan i hvert fald fortælle der er betydeligt forskel på før og efter vedr. vand flowet i udstødnings knæet efter brug af kaustisk soda. Og husk briller, handsker samt åndedrætsværn.

Og efter rensningen af hans udstødnings knæ, se ca. 5.30 - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/isiSlddelsvZmmw.html

Hej Tino, er ved præcis det samme, et spørgsmål hvilken blandings forhold på kaustisk soda har du brugt. @@twiper

@@CH_1966 Jeg blandede det ikke præcist, men lavede bare en god stærk blanding. For at fylde røret op skal du bruge ca. 2 dl. vand + en 2-3 spiseskefuld kautisk soda. Man kan selvfølgeligt også finde en spand så det hele kan komme ned i blandingen. Husk at få røret vendt sådan at du ikke har luft lommer. Hele haløjet bliver varmt når processen er i gang.

Thanks :) I used caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) but it is better to use hydrochloric acid "brick cleaner" (saltsyre on danish)

Thanks for the reply, and thanks for very informative videos

I videoen bruger jeg kaustisk soda dvs. afløbsrens, har dog fundet ud af at det er bedst at bruge saltsyre

My rudder bearings was charged in 2015 and I bought my boat in 2016 so I've had no problems with the rudder system. I know my sailor friend need to change his bearings in the spring 2019 so I will try to make a video of the repair if he let me film. He also has a Bavaria 32 like mine, a 2002 model but I can see there is a small difference between my boat and his in the rudder bearing section. I'll try to make a short clip on the subject here for my next video on Friday.

wow, that would be great!

@@twiper I have 2002 bavaria cruiser 32 as yours too. So don't think about selling your bavaria 32 Tino! :))

The problem occurs when you put together stainless steel and aluminium, the least precious metal will then rust or corrode very fast. It is also known as the "electrochemical serie"

Not a problem, the problem is corrosion inside the exhaust elbow and also on the water hose nipple. If there is too much resistance or blocked, the sea-water will find it's way thru the rubber cover ends and up passing the overpressure-valve in the filler cap and out thru the hose attached to it. It can fill your engine room with water quickly. The volume of the water passing every minute thru the heat exchanger is quite large. The engine is a Perkins with a Perkins exhaust elbow/bend.

There is nothing wrong with the stainless it self, the problem is when you bond two different metals together. The least noble metal will disappear or rust/corrode first and when you bond stainless to aluminium the alu will corrode first. When you use a iron exhaust elbow the iron will rust before the aluminium and you then protect the aluminium on that way.

@@twipersorry, but I'm not sure I understand what aluminum you're talking about here?

@@michaelthomsen8771 The heat exchanger housing is made of aluminium

But there is a nice seal between the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow? The only metal the elbow is touching are the bolts. Anyway in the video you didn't mention this concern but that the stainless didn't like the temperature difference

@@michaelthomsen8771 It has connection through the waterflow and also by the bolts where it is screwed together. It is called galvanic corrosion. Volvo has also electric separated the engine from the s-drive to prevent corrosion. The s-drive is made of aluminium and you have the zinc as protection against corrosion.

Yes it seems like I use a 12 mm. spanner for the bolts, but if the spanner you have doesn't fit it can be due to a low quality of your tool. If the tool is cheap they are mostly thicker in the way they are build but the metal is weaker than in a more expensive tool.

@@twiper Thank you very much for everything, your videos are perfect for me, we share the same engine. Greetings

I plugged the exhaust and water inlet and then filled the soda inside the exhaust elbow. The whole thing was then standing inside a plastic bucket over night. Some people say you must use hydrochloric acid instead of caustic soda. The soda does not destroy plastic but it will destroy aluminium.

No. The small pipe goes into a small chamber wich leads into the big exhaust near the end of the elbow. The point is not to get any water into the engine, if the hole is all the way through the water can spray into the engine and will then destroy the exhaust valves over time or create heavy corrosion in the aluminium part of the exhaust. (manifold)

@@twiper thank you Tino

The gasket at the exhaust elbow must be fitted dry, think it's to prevent any grease from burning and boiling at the gasket surface and creating a air pocket leading to a leak.

@@twiper ah okay, thanks for the clear video and the quick reply