Props for making the Ender 3 an open source platform so it's more accessible!

I settled on 0.93 V I don't know how long it takes to actually burn up a stepper motor or driver but its good to play on the safe side.

What do you do just test while machine is on?

If you think the x2 steppers run hot - check out an x3 - they practically glow.

I've got about 100hrs on mine already and am already modding it. With how cheap it is its a great beginner printer, but also a good 2nd printer to do crazy mods on.

I'm gonna buy it now thanks for your comment

How long did it take for your printer to arrive

@@wyatte3806 I got mine on Amazon Prime with free 2-day delivery.

Very true of X2! DO NOT EXPECT THE SAME EXPERIENCE WITH an X3

I'm considering the Aquila, any significant parts or mods that didn't line up?

@@VastCNC most ender 3 printed parts will fit. It doesn't have a place for a cpu fan cover its located in a different place on the voxelab. It prints great in pla, pla+ petg abs vinyl. Need a bigger nozzle for cf petg and wood. But it does print everything you can through at it. Just upgrade your tube and and nozzle to a hardened steel. This thing will run anything. The voxelmaker slicer that comes with it is good but you can use cura for your slicing. I think for the money its better than the v2. Its nearly identical. I just printed a petg project that took the full height of the printer and pulled it nicely. I don't think you can say that with a v2

How often do you print? Had anything failed in that year?

I assembled them back to back and pointed out literally every small difference I could notice. It ended up being a lot of small wins for voxelab on an otherwise nearly identical product. I think the Aquila makes sense for a lot of people just based on price alone. It is still a $100 price difference, which is shocking!

I now have 3 Voxlab printers and love them! Here are 2 upgrades for less then $40 that will make all the difference. Upgrade the extruder to an all aluminum! Replace the hot end, mother board and power supply fans. They are noisy and 2 went out within a couple of months. If I have the need for another printer, it will always be a Voxlab. With 3 printers, I have spare parts on hand for almost every component. Not saying you have to do the same, but the reason is, when my first went down because of a broken wire on the x Axis plug. I was left for 3 days and not printing. $100 is spare parts gives me that piece of mind. Also, checkout "3dprintsos" KZfaq channel. He has done a ton of work with these and shows all the possible upgrades. Not are all necessary, but it's nice to know. Best of luck. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

@@123masteryoda123 Those are some good upgrades, I would add stiffer "yellow" bed springs to that list of cheap and useful upgrades. I have been happy with my haldis BMG clone extruders (I bought 3), but almost anything is better than the stock extruder. amzn.to/2ZwhyN2

Sounds like you have a bad story to share?

Thanks David, and happy printing! Edit: I should point out that my new print profile does not have the same hull line issue so my prints are looking much better. If I reprinted it on the aquila I think it would min even better, except for some defects in overhanging features that can only be addressed by installing better a better part cooling fan.

There is too much "Oh, the printer is good, you should buy one." on YT.

Yeah, this video took longer to produce than normal since I had to fully assemble and test 2 printers out of the box, but it's exactly the kind of video I would like to see when making a buying decision. I kind of lucked out that my boss had just bought an Ender 3 V2 that I could assemble and compare against in this video, but it was great to be able to see both side by side.

Glad it helped!

Heh... I got one coming Tuesday too!

Me too!

Save that money for 5 kgs of filament, or a hotend/extruder upgrade!

I just got the aquila c2 today, so far Im astounded by the print quality

Glad it was helpful! You should check out CHEP's video on the Aquila as well, he pointed out a flaw that I didnt notice until I watched his video. There is a gap between the nozzle and PTFE tube which can cause clogging and other issues. You can fix it pretty easily by disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling the hotend, hopefully the newer units are shipping without that issue.

I tried to focus on differences I had in the assembly process, wheel tightening was the same on both printers. I used CHEP's assembly guide for my first Ender 3, he's better at covering all the details than I am: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jpyTpLSLucmRZIU.html I do have one special step when setting up the z-axis wheels. Since there are 6 wheels it's overconstained. So I will loosen the screws holding the x-axis extrusion, then properly tension the wheels wheels on both z axis extrusions, then re-tighten the screws holding the x-axis existing. Otherwise you can get in a situation where the x axis is pushing the two vertical supports apart. It probably doesn't matter that much but I do it just to be thorough. The larger screws used on the voxelab aquila's x axis are better for this because they will hold up better to multiple rounds of loosening/tightening.

I bought mine at pretty much the same time. Did your printer come with a $20 rebate card? Just curious if that's a normal thing they send out. You can see it on the print bed at 0:35

Good luck! Join a discord or Facebook if you need help, lots of people out

It's good to know I'm not the only one having an issue with the new Creality print bed coating. It's totally different from my older Ender 3 V2. I'll look into some cheap options for improving bed adhesion, it may be a good topic for another video. I have a spray can of plastidip that I want to try out, but could also test glue stick, hair spray, tape, and a bunch of other stuff side by side. The best solution I have used for bed adhesion is BLTOUCH + spring steel PEI sheet. I have that combo on one of my printers and I don't even have to think about bed adhesion anymore, it just works. But it's pretty expensive and complicated to set up, since it requires you to flash firmware, mount, and tune it.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Not having to worry about bed adhesion sounds like a dream. I have had a BLTouch in a box for a while, but there was a lot of conflicting information about how it should be set up for the Ender 3v2. Recently I saw people making more videos about it so if I get it working and it helps the adhesion I’ll let you know.

Just installed the BL on my V2. Definitely a game changer. It was easy to install on mine. 30 minutes tops and I pushed the wire through the loom. From what I am seeing people are getting different motherboards. If you have the 2.2 or 2.7 it's easy plug it in update firm and done. Or I was really lucky.

@@stephentt If you try the BLTOUCH and are all having issues don't forget the PEI sheet too! It's about $25, but it's the ideal print surface for PLA. But just a heads up if you print with PETG: I printed PETG on the smooth PEI build plate of a PRUSA I3 MK3 and it got torn it up. Now I use textured PEI for PETG, and smooth PEI for PLA.

@@johnrogowski358 I'm glad Creality added this. I have the old rev of mainboard on my older Ender 3s. You can still install a bltouch on there, it just needs a breakout board that steals power from the display cable port and plugs into the z-axis limit switch, and maybe a different version of the firmware. Just makes it a little more complicated but I'm sure there's guide on KZfaq to walk you through it either way.

Over on reddit most Aquila owners said their fasteners were fine, it must have been a bad batch that we both got. I always just pinch the extruder arm to open it up and pull the filament out since its faster, but I'm also the guy that opens the pickle jar when other people can't get it open. One of my next videos will be setting up octoprint. Octolapse will be awesome so I can get good time-lapses to add to my videos. I have no experience with so it might be challenging to set up. Did you find any good guides while setting up Octoprint?

@@NathanBuildsRobots My suggestion would be just to download and install OctoPi which has a version of Raspian and Octoprint preinstalled. Understanding which gcode commands are available in the Aquila software would also be useful especially if there is a difference between the stock Aquila and the V2. The stock Ender 3 V2 software doesn't have commands available for filament change. I use Octoprint to work around this. The preferred method of running OctoPrint is one Raspberry Pi per printer. There are people that try and use Docker etc... for multiple printers but given the eventual number of printers that I might end up with (I might buy another Voxelab) , I'm not sure dealing with Docker is worth it. Here is a video link I consulted which walks through the OctoPi process: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bbB0iquS2aypfoU.html , There are a lot of Octoprint plug ins available and I also like the control it gives me over sending gcode to the printer remotely. For example, I don't have the BLTouch involved but I did design and print out a holder for a digital dial indicator for my Ender 3V2 that I use to measure the profile of my bed. I then use gcode to put that into Marlin. I'm still working on my SOP for checking bed level before each print. I need to do the same thing for the Aquila. I have a flexible bed on the Ender and I'm thinking I may go back to glass. I think there is a little movement in the thermal cycling on my flexible bed. I'll probably stick to the stock bed on the Voxelab since I'm using this for long prints anyway. I'll probably go to an all metal hot end on the Voxelab and add thermal cutout sensors tied directly to the AC as an extra safety feature on the bed and the hotend. Defense in depth is a proven strategy and I want a thermal cutout that is separate from the printer's controller board to eliminate common mode failure. Unfortunately, I'm printing projects every day now so I need the printers up.

@@jpgquintana Thanks, I copied your comment into a word document that I will consult when i'm setting up Octopi -hopefully by the end of May. I will be flashing firmware to Marlin prior to getting Octopi because most of the hotend upgrades I want to do use a cartridge style thermistor so I have to reconfigure them in firmware. IMO Bed leveling + flexible bed are 2 upgrades that should be done in tandem because you give up stability when taking the glass bed off and need to correct it with auto bed leveling.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I would agree that a bed leveling strategy + flexible need to go together. This is why I'm thinking of going back to glass. I would rather have the stability. and flatness. The Bed Leveling can't compensate for flatness . BTW, I just blew out my hot end. I replaced the original nozzle due to clogging after about 30 hours of printing but I didn't reposition the PTFE tube. I was getting huge blobs on my prints after than. I opened up the fan housing to find polymer working its way around the threads of the nozzle as well and up around the heat break. Given the mess and the price of a new wired hot end, I figured this was a good time to get into the box. I ordered a replacement from Amazon and have already dug into the belly of the printer to get to the controller board. Good thing I can still print with the Ender while the Voxelab is down. I have PlatformIO running on my Windows Box and have tweaked Marlin for the Ender 3. Several of my projects require changing filaments since I'm putting lettering and QR Codes on the prints. I'm still using an Octoprint technique for that but I'll eventually just try and use Marlin.

@@jpgquintana In my next video I'm installing a Phaetus Dragonfly HF hotend. It's pretty interesting, the heatbreak tube and nozzle are 1 piece so there's no way to have a blowout. I broke it within 10 seconds of unboxing it, but I figured out how to fix/improve it. I'd recommend getting a direct drive setup for frequent filament changes.

I would have done a better job comparing them side by side but I had pretty much finished filming the voxelab part when I happened upon the V2. I did the same paper sheet bed leveling procedure on both printers for initial setup. The V2 had some issues so I releveled it two more times and was still not getting bed adhesion. I did not mean to imply that it was having issues because I didn't bother to level it. I adjusted VREFs to reduce stepper motor temperatures from 70C to 40C. It would probably be fine to run it on the stock values, but with steppers and stepper drivers the cooler they run the better.

The stuff I'm using is Finish Line synthetic PTFE grease for bicycles. I spent about an hour with the Ender 3 trying to get the grinding noise to die down and the only thing that seemed to help was adding a ton of grease. I wiped up some of the excess already but yeah I've probably got to much on there.

Is the X2 noticeably louder or are they much the same?

Ok that makes sense. I didn't want to experiment with a brand new printer.

Since Creality sell these all over the world, I'm guessing they chose to play it safe and leave the power supply set to 220/230 because there's no way you can damage it when you plug it in, regardless of what part of the world you're in. So if you plug it into a US outlet set at 230, the power supply won't work correctly and the output will be lower than it should be (maybe half the required 24V). This means you really need to check that switch before you run it the first time, but there wouldn't be any danger of damaging it in this configuration. If it's set to 120 and you plug it into a 230 outlet, it will fry it. Great video by the way, really nice job on the detailed side-by-side comparison.

@@NathanBuildsRobots there should be a fuse as part of the switch, there was on my Tenlog.

Good call, or write some gcode to do it for you while you go get lunch!

Yeah, direct drive and dual gear extruders also help address this issue.

Yeah it's a great buy. I didn't really know what to expect but I was pleasantly suprised by its quality. I plan on getting octoprint working soon. I think it will be super nice to add octolapse footage to my videos, but it looks kind of hard to set up.

Nice, it's still one of the best deals. Super cheap, moddable, and it works great!

Thanks for bringing this up. I was comparing it to a silent motherboard that I bought for my Ender 3 Pro about 5 months ago and incorrectly assumed the new Ender 3 V2 had the same board. I'll take a look at the V2 tonight and see what if it has the updated board.

You're very welcome, still a pretty informative video, and if you bethink that this printer is almost a 1:1 copy and cheaper whci you can easier spend on modding it its an interesting option.

Ok, I just took a look at the Ender 3 V2 board. It looks it has a 4.2.2 board. It is identical to the voxelab board, except the voxelab has 1 additional 3 pin JST connector. So you can add a bltouch and Filament runout sensor to both, but you would still have room for 1 more sensor on the voxelab. Not sure what you'd use it for but it's there if you need it.

I have one ender 3 v2 bought this month and still 4.2.2 board and it sucks

With a ender 3 v2 the best thing you can do is upgrading to a 4.2.7 board ( stay cooler on the drivers ) I also had some Quality problems, same bed v rols problems(best to replace them and give a little down push on the front of y t-bar ) nics and tends on the t bars. The Quality is not high. If Would buy again then I would buy the voxelab or buy the ender 5 pro.. I would say buy the ender 5 pro ( changed the 4.2.2 Mainboard to a MKS 3EP ) , but this one cost more.

Here in the US I've worked with electrical equipment and wiring for about 6 years, and most things I've used, 240v on a 120v receptacle will usually trip a breaker, but 240v, to a 110/115v equipment will usually fry it

@@Omalleyus yup it makes pretty sparks and magic smoke 😅 i used to work in a PC recycling centre where we would take old Office equipment to be refurbed for 3rd world countrys, Its how we used to destroy the Psu's that didnt PAT Test because parts scavangers used to raid the skips. 😅

Hey, I've got the original ender 3 as well. What do you mean by "that screw tilt adjust guide" ?

I had to build them prettey much side by side to notice some of the smaller details. I appreciate voxelabs attention to detail. If I want to get started with resin printers, Voxelab will be my go-to brand after my positive experience with the Aquila. I think the aquila is their first attempt at a filament printer, I'd like to see them make a large format printer 350mm or above to compete with the Ender 5 Pro. Have not heard of the vking. I want to build an enclosed ABS corexy printer someday, Right now I'm considering making a high temperature printer out of a spare 3018 CNC. All the threaded rods/bearings should cope better than belts and v wheels. It just might be the cheapest way to get into high temperature printing.

@@NathanBuildsRobots The V-King was designed by Roy of Pro3D and is CoreX, Y and belted Z with a Duet 2, everything on the printer is designed by Roy and there have been some great upgrades, I originally was going to build a Voron or a Hypercube and then I came across the V_King and V-Baby and having great access to the designer sealed it for me. kzfaq.infovideos

@@AndrewAHayes Thanks for the link, I'll check it out!

I just took mine apart to check it: The PTFE/bowden tube goes all the way to the brass nozzle inside of the heater block, so it is not an all-metal hotend. The cheapest way to get the capabilities of an all metal hotend is to get a metal heatbreak, which moves the end point of your bowden tube further up inside of the heatsink, so it stays much cooler than the heater block amzn.to/3sJvKuB at (50C instead of 240C) Heres a couple things to keep in mind if you want to switch to all metal hotend: 1) You can keep most of your slicer settings the same, but you will need to turn your retractions down to keep it from pulling molten plastic back up into the cold area of the hotend, which can resolidify and cause a jam. Normal bowden setups require ~5mm retraction Bowden+all metal hotend requires ~2mm retraction All metal+direct drive requires ~1mm retraction 2) ABS releases toxic fumes that you should plan on venting out of your workspace. In terms of upgradability: The only real difference between the ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, and Voxelab Aquila is how the fan shroud is attached. The rest is similar enough that most mods will be work between all 3 of them. I'll give an example, I just put one of these on my Voxelab, which is actually the topic of my next video (I am editing it now, it should be out next week): store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-direct-drive-extruder There were a couple parts that didn't fit perfectly. It needed some modification, but nothing too crazy. That particular kit was designed for the Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/CR-10, and is not 100% compatible with the Ender 3 V2 or the Voxelab Aquila. It was more like 90% compatible, since I had to move the X-Axis limit switch and use a different fan shroud. But I would have run into some of the same issues with the Ender 3 V2. Pretty much any 3D printer will require a little bit of hacking things together to get it to work. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!

There are a lot of good options out there. I also like the artillery sidewinder X2

I can give that a try on my next unboxing. I was actually planning on only using the included tools to assemble the Aquila, but then I had issues with one of the bolts. I figured it was either a problem with the tools or the bolts. It happened to be a problem with the bolts, but I decided to use the Bondhus wrenches because they are made of harder steel and are less likely to strip/damage bolts that are already less than 100% As for filament, I don't really like how most manufacturers package it. They cut off a piece for you and put it in a bag like the are some kind of drug dealer. Won't it have issues with tangling if it's not on a spool? I would hate to start a test print and have it get all jammed up.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you! the tool thing definitely provides valid information to a new user. The filament I agree on (usually it is crap, and just a piece), BUT if they are going to include a test demonstration print it would be NICE if they would give you enough to finish it. I bought an FLSUNN-QQ and it did not have enough to finish the test print(s), I had more filament (but discovered the printer (finishing over-night) does not have run-out detection so I got a print failure the second print).

@@NathanBuildsRobots the scrap that create provided with my ender3 v2 I just hung where you would normally place a spool and it rolled off as it should. Maybe I got lucky who know lol.

@@bobbyp9220 I have since tried using the included filament. The white creality stuff is pretty smelly. On one print it unspooled just fine, on another it fell off and I had to keep straightening it out to get it to feed correctly.

I have since started assembling the printers with the included tools, thanks for the tip!

Yes, it is well within normal operating temps. Steppers can run over 70C-80C without issue. I was just going the extra mile with tuning and efficiency.

The difference are really small, not really worth the extra cost for the x2 IMO. Lately there has been some drama about lack of thermal runaway protection and microcontroller types on the Aquila. I still think the aquila is the better buy though.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I saw that. Isn't it fixable with hacked/upgraded firmware?

@@MakerMeraki yeah, you just need to make sure the firmware is up to date.

Wow what a journey. It may need a new mainboard, and/or you are getting occasional underextrusion from nozzle clogs or extruder slippage.

I see. Just for context, are you with team 110VAC or team 220?

@@NathanBuildsRobots 110

There are more companies trying to copy their product and most are coming with some pretty great improvements. I have 2 more similar machines to review which have a lot of good upgrades. But it seems like every machine has its own quirks. The nice thing about the Ender 3 is it has a ton of aftermarket parts support so you can always upgrade the things you don't like.

I see. I'm taking a poll of puerile who have answered this question just to figure something out: are you team 110v or 220v?

@@NathanBuildsRobots Whatever works in your country, I say :)

I have a video coming out today (in about 3 hrs) where I upgraded the hotend fans and it is a lot quieter. The hotend heatsink fan is one of the loudest on the machine, but the rest are not far behind. Check out my other video where I took quiet printing TO THE EXTREME on my Ender 3 (You could hear a pin drop next to this thing while its running). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9dzodeIybKtpnU.html

@@NathanBuildsRobots Yes, thanks, I watched several of those videos last night. You did a great job. The hot end fan is certainly loud but the fan cooling the mainboard is ridiculous when it comes on. I've got fans for both on order. My FLsun Q5, unmodified, can sit on my desk right next to me printing away and it's only moderately annoying due to the extruder stepper motor driver needing an upgrade to silent. The Aquila on the other hand, has to go into another room! lol

@@baxrok2. I'll try to get a FLsun to review. Seems like a good budget delta printer. I've used their filament before and they have some very nice colors. I think half of the engineers working on these printers must be deaf because of I was designing them the noise is the first thing I'd fix!

I haven't been keeping up with it too much but it's always a stain on a company's reputation when they cut safety in an effort to save time or money. They also had no thermal runaway control for quite some time, which is also bad. Honestly I'm so cheap and lazy that I would probably still buy the Aquila and run it without themal protection if I were in the market for a cheap as dirt printer :p Or better yet buy a Lergde X replacement board with that $120 savings between the Aquila and Ender3 V2.

What's was going on with your prints on the V2? If you still have it I can help you troubleshoot.

No, that is taken care of by the slicer program. It is called "infill". Most people use 15% infill, so the parts are much lighter and print faster, but you can't tell from the outside

Yeah, bltouch works wonders, thanks for the update, I was comparing it to a board I had on hand and assumed it was the same as the one inside the V2, guess that was a bad assumption. The more you touch the bed, the easier it is for your bed to get knocked out of alignment, so having to wash it or apply glue stick makes it harder to keep the bed level. The upgraded springs make it more difficult to knock the bed out of alignment, so instead of having to level every 5 prints maybe you only have to do it every 20 prints instead. So it kind of helps with bed adhesion, but only in the sense that your machine is maintaining its bed leveling. Still a good upgrade in my book. I also saw some silicone bushings that you can use instead of springs if using a bltouch that act like almost sold springs, wondering how good those are.

My favorite upgrades in any machine are All metal heatbreak Dual gear direct drive extruder I go with cheap BMG clones 90% of the time, but if price is no object I would try out the LGX from Bondtech. It really depends on what you're goal is. I find most printers to be too slow, so I usually also put a 0.6mm nozzle on too so u can run .4mm-0.6mm layer heights. I could recommend a CHT bozos if you want more speed

Also I really like textures PEI build surfaces

If you want a bigger printer, I'm reviewing the LONGER LK5 PRO, i went in with low expectations, but it's got fantastic print quality. Here is an affiliate link to the LK5 printer, it can be found 80-100 cheaper on other sites though amzn.to/3pIRbgS

I had another viewer ask about the power supply so I just checked, mine has a Meanwell and so did the other commenter. But they don't claim to use Meanwells on any of their spec sheets, so that could change.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I received mine few days ago, got it for ~90 euro's it was on sale at theri aliexpress store. compared it with my Ender-3 V2, and construction seemed better....... Also a MeanWell PSU, Moons Stepper motors, GATES Timing Belts and no stupid hotglue dabs everywhere. What I do like over the Ender-3 V2 is that they just put in a cosmetic cover where the drawer supposed to be sitting. and that cosmetic cover gives you plenty of room for upgrades. SSR, Rapsi4 and so on!

@@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel good point, I should start filling that space up. That's a crazy good deal at 90€ CHEP just did a video on the aquila and noticed that they didn't fully tighten the nozzle/bowden tube so there was a gap that got filled with plastic there. But I do like that they test run the hotend before shipping, nice bit of quality control.

​@@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel Hi there, would you mind sharing the link to the store/product? I've checked all "VOXELAB AQUILA" and could find any that has been down to 90€ in the last 3 month. I would really appreciate it as the price has been the only barrier for me getting into buying my own 3d printer, but have used lots of them.

Its on the video 6:50 ......anyhow here is a different video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/psWEo8yLuMvGqKs.html

@@themountain59 thanks.. You mentioned a couple different voltages.. The video link says .6VDC. Is this the voltage you set yours to?

The stock values were about 1.2 V and the steppers ran hot at 60C+ More that this isn't necessarily a bad thing since the steppers can handle those Temps, I just don't like running them that hot, because you're stepper drivers are also getting pretty hot as well. Allay the Y stepper is almost always warmer because it's right under the heated bed. I tried 0.55 V and my next print had some banding issues that I zoomed in to on the black benchy at 7:35. The steppers were really cool during this print, around 30C. I think the banding was caused by the timing belt cogging as the ripples appeared to have the same pitch as the timing belts. Then I turned it up to 0.9V and I found that was a good compromise between quality and temperature. Steppers were around 42 C and I didn't notice the banding I had at lower voltages. Be careful when making this adjustment, when probing the board with the power on its very easy to sort components together and fry the board. Make sure you have good lighting, know what you're supposed to touch, and good luck! Edit: Also I should mention, some of the more advanced stepper drivers let you change the stepper current in the menu, which is pretty neat! The BTT board I've used on some other projects have this feature.

I used this video by Creality as a reference kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nqlkfZVq1960nIU.html But I suggest watching multiple videos to get a good understanding of what to do.

@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the info.. I did watch the Creality video and they adjusted to around .6V but later increased the extruder to .9V. I have the Aquila and also a Diggro Alpha3 Pro (same as Longer LK4 Pro) which the steppers are around 25% larger than the Aquila and they never get hot and wonder if these are sized a tad small for the task.. Next time I flip the Aquila over I will try tweaking the steppers to ~.8-.9VDC. On the Aquila I find the Y-axis is the hottest.

I have an X2 to review, I should try it out

It's one of those things that used to bother me at first, but now if I got a printer that takes the SD card right side up it would throw me off. So now we're stuck with upside down SD cards for the rest of time. If you think about it, the boards are all installed upside down too (attached to the "ceiling" of the enclosure)

I'd also like to know since I'm considering Aquila over Ender 3. Hopefully someone will answer

The link worked for me just now. Here is the product title in case you want to look it up another way. SPEED TIGER ISE Carbide Square End Mill - Micro Grain Carbide End Mill for Alloy Steels/Hardened Steels - 4 Flute - ISE3/32"4T - Made in Taiwan (5 Pieces, 3/32")

I always print petg at 240, you might have a jammed nozzle or something.

I use a CR-10s at work, its actually a pretty good design. It has close to 2000 hours of print time on it with no major issues. My only complaint is the firmware that it comes with does not give you a lot of control over settings. For example I'm pretty sure you have to plug in a computer and send gcode to adjust E-Steps.

I have an Ender 3 pro, Ender 3 v2, and an Aquila, they all still work great. The Ender 3 v2 in this video was built for a friend so I don't have it anymore. The build plate was pretty much a nonstick coating with PLA. I kind of got it working by cleaning it with acetone, but as a long term solution I would use blue painters tape or replace it with a pei coated flexible steel bed. For some reason this printer and another Creality build plate I bought around that time, were awful at bed adhesion. 2 issues that's came up with the Aquila: 1) apparently their firmware was missing thermal runaway protection for a while so just make sure to update it and you'll be all set. 2) they don't fully tighten the bowden tube all the way down. Check the 1:10 mark of this video to see how to fix that: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mM2Ja9mo25nLgXU.html At a $100 price difference the Aquila is still a much better deal, even if you have to work through a couple bugs, and the long term reliability should be near identical since they are pretty much built the same.

@@NathanBuildsRobots bro you're awesome!!! Ty for the feedback. Definitely going aquila

I was price watching it for a while before I bought it since I already have a bunch of 3d printers. $180 is still a pretty good deal

Nothing, they are just fine running at higher temperatures. I just brought it up because it was a difference I noticed. You'll be able to feel the difference though. 65 degrees C is too hot to leave your hands on for long

Could be the filament you're using. Also I wrote the bed with alcohol wipes to make sure it's clean off dust and oil. Could be a lot of things though

Have you tried cleaning the bed with isopropyl alcohol? I use glue too but sometimes the print is too small to remove with all of the adhesion on it

​@@kaitran That was actually the very first thing that I did. No avail. Heating up the bed to 75 degrees helped a little, but not much. Glue stick is good in that while it creates a rough surface for the filament to hold on to, it doesn't hold too tight to the print. When the bed cools down, the prints come off pretty easily. No need for a spatula.

I bought a glass bed a couple months ago to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro (on my fanless Ender 3 build video), and it was this same thin paint layer that doesn't stick very well. I assumed I got a counterfeit because it doesn't work nearly as good as the more texture glass bed that came with my old E3V2 (purchased about 6 months ago). But it looks like they have changed their bed to use this thin layer of black paint instead of anything with any grip on it. Kinda feels like Creality is letting their quality slip and is relying on brand recognition to keep sales going. Anyways, to your original concern, this new glass bed formulation has been nothing but trouble for me. But I've been able to get pretty reliable bed adhesion by setting: 1st layer line width to 2x the nozzle diameter, or 0.8mm. 1st layer print speed to 50% normal print speed, or 30mm/s. Completely coverinh the bed with glue stick. Between prints I will use a wet/damp paper towel to rough up and redistribute the glue. It would also help to set 1st layer layer height to 0.3mm

@@NathanBuildsRobots The printer profile that I'm using right now (a customized version of FDG) actually has this lower speed/greater layer height/big line width too. I haven't yet tested if the bed adhesion is the same without glue stick. However, before using the glue stick with the regular profile, I tried hairspray, and it actually _worsened_ bed adhesion for me! I'd be very interested in a video about the various methods to improve bed adhesion.

On your original comment about fans, I have just given up on having a quiet printer for under $200. I still like having the silent motherboard, because I can hear stepper squeal from a room away vs at least the fans you can't hear from another room. Have you checked out my world's quietest Ender 3 video? I think it's my best printer and video to date, but I must have done something to anger the youtube gods because it's not getting as much exposure as my other videos. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9dzodeIybKtpnU.html I can leave that printer running while I watch a movie in the same room and I can't even tell if it's running, it's luxuriously quiet.

Yes, They are identical for all purposes related to a slicer.

Sounds like a problem with the main board so you might want to try reflashing the firmware or replacing the mainboard.

I saw similar problem with another printer. It was solved with formatting sd card with 32kb.

@@Gorodni4ij good point, I'd try a new SD card first if you have one. Sometimes they get corrupted.

Whose a good poodle? You are!

I heard the Voxelab also has a Meanwell PSU, I'll have to fact check this though. It's more like $120 difference, a Meanwell power supply can be had for $30. Also, I didn't mention this in the video because I'm not sure how long they are doing this promo, but mine came with a $20 rebate so all together I paid $140, or exactly half what the Ender 3 V2 costs.

10bucks more??? The ender costs here 225€ minimum...thats 70€ more...you can buy a lot of stuff for that!

@@themountain59 Hey Andy, prices are from posted Amazon links. You will get an Ender 3 V2 for about 180 € on Aliexpress with new 4.2.7 board and shipping from Europe.