Thanks for watching. I appreciate the feedback.

Gracias, y de nada.

Thank you!

Yes, you can make a larger top and leaves. You'll just use the existing base and the "trenches" in the aprons to guide the placement of the rails that attach to the undersides of the leaves.

Correct. The orientation of the grain on the leaves is perpendicular to the support rails, which are screwed into the underside of the leaves, so they act to keep the leaves flat. Thanks for tuning in!

I'd be happy to make you an extra large version. Hit me up via email to get the ball rolling. Thanks!

Yes, this is a risk. To reduce that risk, I work the leaves in and out numerous times before applying the finish. I note any scratches and sand accordingly on the top surface of the leaf and bottom surface of the tabletop until there are no scratches. Then, I apply 3 coats of Tried & True oil/wax finish to the entire table, buffing w/0000 steel wool between coats. Once the finish is fully cured, I come back around and apply a coat of Annie Sloan's hard wax to the tops of the leaves, the top of the table, and the underside of the tabletop. This adds a pretty good layer of protection. All that said, there still is some risk of scratches as the table moves with seasonal humidity changes, however with the precautions outlined above, if they do appear they are very faint and can usually be rubbed out.

Depth of the "trenches" in the aprons is 1-1/16" (for a top that is 7/8" thick). Width is 3/4"

@@GothamWoodworks Excellent, thanks. The table looks great, btw.

Hey Kerry - I just looked at another person's 'plans' for a similar table, and I realize that the rails that attach to the leafs are not a uniform height. It appears that this taper is what allows the leafs to be flat when extended. Could you tell us what kind of calculations you used to determine the amount of taper required, and where the tapers start? That would be SOOO helpfull!

The leaves do indeed lay flat when extended. Re: the calculation for the taper on the rail, it's a bit difficult to describe, but here's the process. Once you have your leaves put together and surfaced to final thickness, you take your rail stock and lay it perpendicular to the leaf so that it is in the orientation that it will be when fastened to the leaf. Make sure the front of the rail is flush with the edge of the leaf (use your finger to ensure the end is flush) and then mark a line across the rail where it meets the back (opposite edge) of the leaf. Next, take the rail off the leaf and butt the edge of the rail up to the edge of the leaf and mark a line across the rail edge where it meets the surface of the leaf. You should now have a pencil mark across the front edge of the rail and another mark that corresponds to the width of the leaf. Transfer the mark at the back of the rail to the side of the rail and use a straight edge to connect the mark on the front edge to the top of the mark on the back edge. This will be your taper. Be sure to mark the waste area properly as it's easy to get confused and cut the wrong section. Here's a link to the "build" video for this table where you can see me do this process -- kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNGXnM-pp7_HonU.html@@fredillies

No. When the leaves are extended, the ends of the rails do not clear the cross-pieces that support the top. If you look at the video, around the 55-second mark, you can see when I put the leaves in place how the ends of the rails will not pull beyond the cross-pieces. Those cross-pieces are sandwiched between the top and the rails, so the lever action created when someone puts weight on the leaf is against the fixed rail, not the top.

@@GothamWoodworks thanks!

Yes, they are called "breadboard ends" and they are designed to keep the top flat. The center tenon on the main top is glued into the corresponding mortise; the tenons on either side are not glued to allow the top to expand/contract with changes in humidity. They are secured with pegs.

Here's another video showing more detail on the breadboard end in a Blanket Chest top kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jp2djdKHlq_apKc.html

@@GothamWoodworks thank you for detailed explanation , you gave me great inspiration

I'm sure I could work it out.

@@GothamWoodworks if I send you the dimensions of what I'm after, please will you let me know if you could make it, and how much it would cost for materials and labour and shipping? How can I get in touch with you please?

Abolutely. kerry@gothamwoodworks.com @@SuzyJarman

I adapted the design from an article in Fine Woodworking magazine. Send me an email and I can point you in the right direction. kerry@gothamwoodworks.com

Yes, this table can be made in virtually any length and width. The narrowest I’ve made it is 24” and the longest is 10 feet ( plus extensions)

No, because the top is supported by 2 cross-rails that are the same thickness as the top and leaves, so when either leaf is pulled out, the leaf rises to meet the top. In other words, it looks like the top is resting on the leaves, but it's really resting on the cross rails. Hopefully, that makes sense.