Glad it helped 👍🏻

Yes I regret putting the part about the door lock without explaining how to undo it - To unlock again, when you switch off, wait a few mins and gently press screwdriver back in to disengage. Overall it’s been a good video for people however a few have had an issue trying the door lock. I don’t know how to video edit to change this 😆

carry on sailing Thanks for appreciating it. I just made the videos to help really because a lot of the stuff is easy fixes, not really growing the channel :-). Glad it’s up and running man! Happy sailing! :D

There is a couple of reasons, in the video at the start I was testing the air flow, part of the reason for that procedure is because there is also a condenser at the back of most models, The condenser is where the water values inject water to condense the steam, it’s usually a long plastic container shape, if this is blocked with fluff then it can cause it to trip. The other reason is a faulty toc which can occur. The only things that can cause the toc to trip is a faulty one, or blocked air flow. The heater is static and just heats until the thermostat tells it to stop (however faulty thermostats almost always fail the opposite where they won’t direct power) - the fan if turning won’t be at fault either, the fan blades can gather a lot of fluff between them allowing it to turn but not direct air, in which case you can open up the chamber and de-lint it, another reason is the condenser as I mentioned and lastly is the washer being too full. The reason dryers have split capacities like 8Kg/5kg is because the drying part needs space in the drum to let air circulate and leave towards the condenser. However I’m assuming if it’s a new problem that’s caused blackening on electrical wires then it’s not an overloading problem. If I was attending as a job I would check air flow and then clean where necessary (however the condensers can be a pain, using a metal coat hanger bent into shape and a bottle brush saves time) - then if the air flow tested good I would replace the toc (is usually a few pounds)

I’ll be up for a little bit - what’s the symptoms? I can try and give you some advice if you get lost :)

@@jasonhounsell3297 Sorry Jason, didn't expect a reply and it's been a long week so I fell asleep for a bit there rather than tackle it in a crabbit mood. It's a Zanussi Timeline 1600 washer-dryer, 16 years old and still going strong except the dryer tumbles etc. but the air is cold, doesn't heat up. I'm a server engineer and used to pulling those beasts apart, so I figure what could go wrong? Lol! Nothing to lose by trying.

@@Irene-gq4jr The Zanussi ones operate the same way as the one in this video as most do, however the heaters are a little more tricky to change if needed - let me know how you get in anyway, drying side faults are usually fairly straight forward and simple to fix :-) Let me know :-)

@@jasonhounsell3297 Really appreciate that Jason, about to have a go and will let you know how it goes.

Good Job 👍🏻 they are easy enough to change and pretty cheap

You could, however it’s better to disconnect it from the PCB if possible (printed circuit board) - the reason is because even when you insulate the ends you don’t want those wires bumping around near the top. The issue could be a couple of things, the obvious one is the PCB is faulty as it shouldn’t be directing power to the drying cycle unless it’s selected. The PCB is usually at the bottom on washer dryers however does vary between models. The second reason might seem odd however the wash heater could be low insulation and faulty, depending on the make and model this might be a likely fault, if it’s hoover Candy like the one in this video they were notorious for the heaters going low insulation (even more common in hard water areas) and gave a whole list of faults such as not spinning, the door won’t unlock and occasionally the dryer side keeps running or the water valve won’t work. The reason is when they go low insulation a small amount of voltage leaks out and ends up circulating the machine and confusing the PCB. A very quick test you can do is take off the back panel, the washer heater is usually located just above the motor (most things vary with model but this is by far the most common setup) - then disconnect that, and run it again. If the fault continues then you can eliminate the wash heater and your looking at a PCB error. If it does correct the issue though usually you can find a heater for £15 or under and it’s a matter of disconnecting the old one, slotting it out (this can be tight so as long as your not prying against the tub which can damage your ok) - then sliding in the new one (make sure it slots in the bracket if there is one on your model) and putting the wires back on. If it’s a PCB error you can try disconnecting the heater and fan, however wether you do at PCB or topside, make sure they are tucked away neatly and very secure and make sure the Earth wire is still connected. This will work on most models with the exception of a few which the PCB tries to get a reading through the heaters before starting any cycle and it will detect they are not there and throw up a dryer heater error code. Hope this helps 👍🏻

You can gently lever them apart using a screwdriver. If you can open it a little, and insert the flat blade, then move along the crack and twist the screwdriver. Some have a glue put between them to keep fixed as well as the bolts. Just be careful not to crack the chamber 👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks Jason, I’ll give it a go later

If you have a multi meter then set it to Ohms - then put the meter on each of the connectors of the heater. This will test continuity (connection) from one side of the heater to the other. You looking for a reading of between say 30 ohms and 300 ohms which varies depending on the make of the heater. A broken will will show no reading (open line) or massive resistance in the Kohms or Mohms areas. Inside the heater is resistance wire, which when current flows through the resistance the wire naturally has generates heat, when that line is broken then no current can pass and thus no heat. The next way to test is via an insulation test, which you would need an insulation meter for, this tests if voltage is leaking from the heater, in those cases however the heater usually heats, however it can produce different faults or trip your electrics as voltage is leaking however is still passing through allowing it to heat.

It’s hard to explain with language differences. If it’s getting hot, however it’s not drying then there has to be an issue with air flow, and I would look for blockages. I’m not sure what you meant however.

Hey, so to unlock it - wait a little while and the repress the screw driver the same way as you did to lock it and it should be fine again. In retrospect I realised after I made the video that I should have left that part out as there is some nuisances to some of them 😆

Thank you for your answer .. we actually did this but it didn’t work. Basically the lock is locked but on the screen it says “please close the door” so we tried putting the screw driver again to trick it that the door is closed and turn on a drying program - then turning it of as we would if the door was actually closed - when it should unlock once cooled down - but nothing.. I was thinking to maybe leave the drying program to finish completely and try to wait until it unlocks itself completely, but there is probably no hope in that and I guess we need help of a professional 😢

@@dominikabartalska8037 For your machine, when a you stop it, or the cycle ends, do you usually have to wait a minute, then hear a click and you can open it again? If so, then what I mentioned should work. Stop the cycle, then wait a few minutes and gently press the screwdriver in again and you should hear the click and then it will allow foot to close again. What make and model is your machine?

Yes, when it stops the program, after about 5 minutes it clicks to suggest it’s unlocked or once the program indicates it’s over, I can go to the off mode and it will unlock immediately. Regarding your advice, (stop the cycle and press the screw driver again ) - the screw driver has to be in the lock in order to stop the program - so as it is inside the lock we - turn it off - wait - and then press it whilst it is in ? Or remove it and then put it back and press ? The machine is Hoover Wash & Dry 500

Also maybe it’s worth noting - once I turn the machine on a program with the screw driver in , the lock does click - same when I turn it off - as it should - but the actual lock doesn’t move

A plumber isn’t really the person to call, they don’t know about appliances and if they do it’s usually basic self taught stuff. An electrician is closer but again are not trained with appliances but would def have better luck as this is all electrical side and they would likely know how to fault find that side using meters. In reality though it is pretty simple as in this video. When it’s a more complicated reason you really want to call a trained appliance engineer. An example could be a machine that’s TOC’s keep tripping without obvious reason, and it could be the dryer water valve which sprays water in to cool and condense the steam down the condenser. Without it steam builds up and trips the TOC but it’s far less common. Going through all the reasons though is something only an experience appliance engineer can do, it’s not really for trades.

Reasons this can happen I explained briefly in the video. If there is a blockage of fluff, then it will overheat and trip because the fan isn’t generating enough air flow to cool the chamber. To check this you can bypass the door lock as explained in the video, once the door is bypassed it stays that way and the door won’t close, you need to end the cycle, wait a couple of minutes and repress the screwdriver in to unlock and set back to normal. This bypass doesn’t work on mechanical locks that disengage the minute the cycle ends with a loud “click click” sound. If it is blocked then you need to take the chamber off and remove as much fluff as you can. If the fan isn’t spinning then it will also cause this effect, you can run it with the lid off and see if the fan is spinning usually, or hear it. Another less common reason is the water valve, this would be harder for you to diagnose without experience, however the tripple water valves on washer dryers, the third one sprays water into the chamber to cause the steam to condense into water, without that, the steam can backlog faster than the fan can move the air, causing this effect. It’s much less common though.

I could have replied and helped, so the way to unlock, is at the end of the cycle, the door lock will ‘cool down’ - it’s a bipolar lock usually. Then you gently just repeat the process and touch the screwdriver in and it will then unlock it. I didn’t mention in video although I could have. Did you manage to identify the problem with the drying cycle after testing air flow etc?