I don't know what you're saying. Write your post in a way so the layman person can understand. If I need my water heater replaced what do I tell them to do to implement your fan solution?

You'll also want a heavy duty impact gun to remove the old anode and you'll need enough vertical height to reinstall the new one. Ideally, take it outside and lay the heater on it's side. Then remove the anode and drain valve and spray out the sediment with a garden hose. Then you can peek inside with a small flash light and inspect the inside and then replace the anode.

@@phiksit arent anode rods only for electric tanks?

Don Schlonski no...they are in all tank water heaters

@@phiksit if you short of vertical space then you can buy sections anode rod.

@@RoddyDa they are not in all tank heaters but most

If you drain it and the bid gets clogged then you are screwed…. Never drain it

Same here but I guess it’s also risky to drain it

I think you need to drain it at least once every 2-3 years and change the anode every 3-5 years. If the bib completely clogs, you need to back flush it with a washer hose connected to a garden hose. There are YT videos showing how to do that.

@@DanN-nv7kg 20K in legal fees, to maybe recover 500, yeah that is why they don't fight it.

i was going to buy a tankless but the cost savings is not that much. they are a lot more money and you have to have a much bigger gas supply line for them. at the end of the life span, they total cost is about the same. i stayed with the tank.

Sad isn’t it.

Well that's a anecdote. I live in a area with hard water and Mine lasted 5 years. I never drained, you can hear the calcium running around

You have good water.👍

Just replaced my first one today. 22 years old never drained. Hard well water.

50 gallon basic chimney vent Rheem, bought in 1996, never drained once and it just leaked all over the basement last night, May 2001.

Same here never drained 50 gallon gas. Installed 1999, so 21 years.

22 water heaters?! You must take baths in a swimming pool and drain it every time.. or have one hell of a family.. you daisey chain em all or they each have their own distribution? With 22 heaters you could have heated toilet water, heated hose for the yard... heated water fountain so it gets all smokey in the winter.. big money over here..

@@Z-Ack I have rental properties, so I own 1 per unit, so I actually have 27 water heaters now including the one in my personal home, and the spec house i am building.

I have one and they are great. I'm surprised Matt doesn't do these in nearly every custom home. It's a lot better than lugging a vacuum cleaner around the house.

lol go buy one

I never had anyone drain my hot water tank but considering some people said theirs lasted 15+ years, maybe that’s the reason. The last tank I had lasted 13 & 1/2 years with only one service call under warranty. They always recommend to have it drained once a year but I’ve not known anyone to do that.

@@revrotunda3206 My plumber father always said if you don't drain from the initial purchase, don't start draining several years in, that sediment could be preventing a leak. I have a Rheem Power Vent 2, 17 years old, no issues but am starting to get nervous. Don't know if it was ever drained as I am a 3rd owner of this house.

@@KM15-13 I always had purchased a Rheem. I lived in a neighborhood where the Rheem manufacturing plant was about a mile away. They’ve since demolished it. I would bet they don’t make these tanks like they used to but that’s just a guess on my part as there’s no way to really know. When I bought my last house, there was already a brand new A. O. Smith in here; a brand I never heard of before but it did last 13 & 1/2 years without draining. But that definitely makes sense to me to not mess with the draining of it years in if not at all. When the A. O. Smith went out, I got a Richmond. Never heard of that brand either as I’ve always gotten Rheems but my neighbor not only sold it to me for only $100.00 but installed it for me as well. It was his Mother’s tank but she never used it as it was too big. Hopefully it will last!

I believe State is a builder grade (that is, low end) brand.

They do. www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-54-in-by-0-9-in-Diameter-Flexible-Magnesium-Anode-Rod-for-Electric-and-Gas-Water-Heaters-SP8371B/205652259

Look into electric anodes. I also hear of zinc for that purpose. Why every tank doesn't have an electric anode? They'd sell a lot fewer tanks because they wouldn't corrode.

Same here! Have a 19yo Bradford White. No problems, knock wood!

Yes Texas has hard water and with the extra tank I will be able to put two anodes have already flushed tankless water heater each year hopefully this would also help with reducing calcium buildup

I purchased a rheem they are having major problems with gas valve controllers, I don't know if Bradford White is any better. I have to say Rheem is really good about supplying parts under warranty.

Jason Harbison i wondered if 10 more gallons would make the whirlpool experience nicer As it is filling it and having no more hot water is a real bummer...useless tub barely used...i wondered if 10 gallons could make a difference...

Also, once the new cold water inlet deteriorates, won’t it fill the tank up with cold water at the top? Right where the hot outlet is... So in other words, it would be supplying the hot water outlet with luke warm water that was just faintly heated before supplying water to its fixture. Im not trying to prove you wrong, I just want to have more information about the extra anode rod.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbGolbp6qZrHgGQ.html

If you're going into a chimney you don't need a power vent

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbGolbp6qZrHgGQ.html

Same here (1996) but it's has started to leak, now I have to replace.

Didn’t that that. Appreciate you commenting

It is a little more expensive, but I prefer replacing the valve with a full port ball valve and a hose adaptor when I install or replace a drain valve. The boiler drain style valves have a very small opening that the water flows through and when enough minerals build up in the tank from regular use (in my area, quite significant amounts), they can stop the boiler drain valve from flowing and the valve may have to be removed to clear the buildup (a time consuming, expensive and messy process). The full port valve is nearly the diameter of the connection when open and does not clog nearly as easily, and when it does, a rod can be slid straight through the valve to break up the clog.

Bear U make sure it's tamper proof if you have little ones in the house or if you sell your house, in order to satisfy modern codes!

woohunter1, great thought! I take the handle off of the valve, strap it to the cold water line and cap the hose connection with a brass cap. I don't know if this is considered tamper resistant, but it keeps the users from hot water gushing everywhere.

Bear U I would think that would satisfy an inspector, being that you just need a screwdriver or a channel lock to open the factory valve.

Hybrid water heaters are more expensive up front, lose effectiveness and capacity when the area they are mounted in gets cold and require significantly more maintenance and repair as they get older than conventional or tankless water heaters. Ground linked versions are a much better choice, but have huge upfront costs, even when sharing a loop with other water source heat pumps. The timer idea with smaller tanks has it's place, but recovery cost from off cycle to usable water temperatures often negates a large chunk of the energy savings and point of use heaters serving only one or more devices are often a better choice (they heat only the flowing water as it is needed and are off the rest of the time). In the end, the tradeoff is between cost to install and maintain vs the cost to run. The requirements of the building and it's users dictate what is most cost effective for any given installation.

Why? First, the aluminum can hardly be described as sediment. And, more importantly, do you drink the hot water? Probably not! Aluminum in OK.

YES