MMO is not meant to be used as a "flush". It is an oil additive meant to help clean and maintain the engine over a 5,000 mile (8,000 km) oil change cycle. If you want to perform a quick flush then buy a product designed for that. Such as motor flush by Gunk.

Marvel Mystery Oil is needed to be used for around 3,000 miles at least to correct an existing sludge/varnish problem. It's not an engine flush or a harsh chemical it will actually condition rubber seals in an engine and is perfectly safe to use in every oil change for the duration of the oil change interval.

I have a 2001 Silverado with a V6 engine. 10 years or so back, I had a very loud lifter. It sounded like a ball peen hammer on and anvil!! It only took a few miles with MMO for it to stop. I've added a qt at every oil change (3000-ish miles) ever since and my engine is very quiet. Also added it to my riding lawn mower....it made a very noticable reduction in the "old engine" rattle.

All I can say is that I have a 2010 acura mdx with 247,000km that had the infamous oil consumption. To be transparent I didn't experience huge amounts oil loss (maybe half a quarter between oil changes). After I put MMO in once and drove it for about 2000km it did something because I ended up having to take out the screen on the A Rocker control arm actuator. After cleaning the screen on it, the code was gone and I haven't had to add oil to my mdx in over a year now. I'm pretty meticulous with my maintenance for the record. I am not putting down this video at all, I'm just posting my personal experience with MMO.

If you look at the before and after there is a difference. In the after shot, there is a coating of oil in areas that didn't have a coating of oil in the before picture. If it is leaving an extra layer of lubrication on the cam bearing caps, it's doing the same in the bearings them selves, which will certainly reduce engine wear on cold start up, which is where the majority of engine wear actually occurs. Furthermore, you can't subjectively test is as a sludge remover by only giving it 1200km (or 750 miles to us American folks) to remove sludge buildup. The only way to remove sludge quickly is to use an aggressive cleaning solution in conjunction with a engine oil flush machine. With MMO, it needs to be added at every oil change substituting 20% of crankcase capacity for MMO. MMO works slowly, as any sludge remover should. You don't want to remove sludge too quickly or it could clog up the small oil galleys inside the engine, possibly causing irreparable engine damage. Use MMO in that engine for 10-15 thousand miles, THEN pull the valve cover and check the results. BG MOA is another excellent agent for removing carbon build up from inside of an engine. It also works very slowly, but very effectively.

My choice to prevent engine slug is this. Change the motor oil at 3000 kms or 2000 miles. You will never have slug. Motor oil is the absolute cheapest maintenance money can buy. The old school guy.

I been using marvel mystery oil for 6 years in my Volvos 240 1987 1990 is a great product. I put it in my gas tank. The gasoline last longer. And before changing the oil of my car I put some marvel mystery oil in my motor oil tank. And believe me. The difference in my cars are great is one of the best product I've ever put in my cars I recommend it 100%

In my opinion: MMO is a cleansing oil additive that only recently was approved by their marketing to use with synthetic motor oils. It has the tendency to wash out viscosity & remove the hydrostatic cling effect. It's not meant for extended oil intravels & does a fine job cleaning up salvaged used engines that sat around awhile. Not recommended for constant use in the oil. It also is a good air tool oil & can unstick ball joints & tie rod spindles when soaked for a day or two. It has a definite place in auto & agricultural mechanics, but you have to use it with conventional oils & change the oil sooner then recommend. It does a good job as a fuel additive when used all the time. I wonder how well MMO does in the value train of GDI non turbo engines with the intake valve gunk. Do not use in the oil with any turbo engine. Turbos use special oil otherwise the turbo WILL lock up permanently. MMO is well known to free sticking hydraulic lifters in junk yard engines & old farm equipment. It will devarnish cylinders walls, piston rings, valve stems & valves when used as a limited oil additive. Not recommended for 0w-20 or 5w-20 oils. Just add a half quart/liter of 5w-30 or 10w-30 to your oil change before adding a half of a quart/liter of MMO if your vehicle specifics call for SAE 20 oils. That way you'll have adequate viscosity being MMO would be SAE 5 in viscosity & will reduce your overall viscosity. It makes a great top off conventional oil filler during the run time of the service interval to, but not to exceed one quart/liter either in initial fill or progressive. I have at least 25 years of experience to know. Your choice.

You need to use Motor Medic or similar to flush out that sludge. Mystery oil is best mixed with gas. It stabilises the gas and lubricates the moving parts of the fuel system. It keeps seals from drying out. It also provides top cylinder lubrication at the valve seats and at the top of the cylinder walls. It cleans out the oil passages in the pistons and frees up the ring grooves. Used regularly, MMO will work very well. It is not a one shot deal. It works best over time.

I ran some Marvel mystery oil and fresh 0w20 in my Scion for about 1500 miles before I did did my amsoil oil change, it definitely darkened significantly faster than only oil by itself. It takes time but it'll clean

Works overtime. You don't want it to remove everything all at once, or it will plug up your oil journals. Add a few Oz. every coil change

You didn't give it enough time. The color change & darkness of the oil, is because of the mixing of the two oils. I use a whole quart Marvel Mystery Oil, drive it 3,000 miles, keep an eye on oil consumption, add more Marvel if necessary, you can clean any motor. I had a 1969 Mustang with over 253,000 Miles on it with Marvel Mystery Oil added to Gasoline as a lead substitute. This is when cars used leaded fuel as a lubricant in the gasoline until the mid 1970's. I've use it, in Lawn Mowers, Tractors, its never failed me. I use it in my 1999 F-150 with over 214,000 miles on it. When I bought it, had 73,000 miles. My motor is quiet, changing the oil is the key to. I just don't go by the miles to change the oil, but how it feels. Because of temperature changes & how you drive can effect oil viscosity.

I added a quart of MMO to my engine oil on an old engine after an oil change, ran it 1000 miles, then changed filter only which is easy on my car (cartridge filter at the top of the engine). The oil had good consistency since it was 1000 miles or less, but it had lots of black dirt in it, and the filter had a lot of black on it. So the MMO is loosening something somewhere.

Thanks for the awesome test. I would be interested to see if kerosene or diesel would clean your slight sludge build up. I’ve heard kerosene does a really good job at cleaning greasy car parts (but haven’t actually tested myself yet). It would be interesting to see if once the rocker cover is off, using a soft brush with kerosene to brush the build up off your engine parts… then just flush it out via the drain plug.

I have a 7.4 dually 1996 added to oil and gas . gain is about 120 km per tank. Great additive.

Thanks for the effort Ali, there is another product that Saudi's Optra owners use and it works perfectly! And I recommend liqui molly 10w40 for the eco TEC 2 engines.

It doesn't happen that fast, and you don't want it to remove the dirt real fast. That loose sludge would clog things up and cause issues especially with variable valve timing. I've used MMO in small engines for a long time, and it works pretty well to clean up the really mucky ones. The first 3 oil changes using it, or so, the oil gets very dirty very quickly which is a sign that it's cleaning. It's not a miracle product but it does help clean and it can be used to quiet sticky lifters. My favorite use for it is to add to diesel fuel to help lubricate the fuel system

Hi. I have a 2005 5.3L automatic 4x4 Yukon with 223,000 miles. It holds 6 qts of oil. I changed oil (10w30 conventional) and filter (walmart brand base filter) before a 6,500 mile mostly intestate trip from CO mountains to Mid-Atlantic to South and then back up to CO mountains. In the first 4,000 miles of trip Yukon burned 1.75 quarts of oil. Before making the last 2,500 miles of trip (uphill to CO) I added .75 quart MMO (conventional formula) to bring level to Full. It burned none in 2,500 miles to and around CO before I changed the oil/filter. So it went from burning 1.75 qts in 4,000 miles mostly downhill driving to not burning any in the next 2,500 miles of uphill and mountain driving. On the trip I averaged between 16.8 and 18.1 mpg, checked by gallons and miles tracking and compared to vehicles MPG gauge. The computer was very close, always within .1 to .2 mpg. Can someone explain this dynamic? I'm going to test it again on another 3,500 mile road trip soon to South and back to CO again. If I have to add a quart I'm going to add 1 qt MMO to see if it stops the consumption again.

In 1980 I had a 76 Pontiac, Trans Am with a 400ci motor. The lifters would start knocking, and I would add more marvel mystery oil to my oil and they would quit knocking. So I know it works for that.

I have used Marvel Mystery oil to free up stuck pistons in a motorcycle. I use it with Scotch Brite pad to polish and clean aluminum. Soak parts in oil for a few days, cleans very well. I'm not crazy about adding stuff to engine oil and then running it.

Regarding oil changes: I sometimes add a little Marvel Mystery oil to my oil when I change the oil, or just prior to an oil change to keep from building any sludge. Every year or two I do a double oil change on my Honda. I add motor flush to the oil & let idle for 5 minutes, then drain the oil. Then I add 2 quarts oil & fill the rest of the way with Marvel Mystery oil & install a new cheap oil filter & idle for 5 minutes. Lastly, I fill with a good synthetic oil & good oil filter & the oil is so clean that you need to look at the oil dipstick in the sun to see the oil level. My car currently has over 213,000 miles on it & the inside on the valve cover is as clean as when it was a new car. Regarding frozen piston rings: I used Seafoam & Marvel Mystery oil on my 1991 Honda civic Si that was burning allot of oil @ 200,000 miles. At the time I was using 10-40 oil with Hyperlube, which it really thick & it still burned allot of oil. I took the spark plugs out and poured Seafoam into each cylinder & loosely put the spark plugs back & let it sit overnight. The next day I used a dowel to put into the cylinders through the spark plug hole to see how much liquid was in each cylinder. I then sucked the liquid out & bumped the starter with the sparkplugs out to move the pistons to a different position. I repeated this process for four days/nights using Seafoam two times & Marvel Mystery oil the last two times. When finished, I made sure all liquid was out of the cylinders & put the sparkplugs back in and started the car. Now I put 0-30 oil in car & it burns no oil. The rings must have been frozen with carbon, but they are fine now.

Funny, the bottle says "helps prevent sludge build up". There was nothing on the bottle that says flushes sludge. In fact it doesn't say "flush" anywhere on the bottle at all

Great vid!

I would caution against using anything to rapidly remove sludge. The oil pickup screen could become blocked causing bigger problems.

I think as more miles get put on the engine and more oil changes get done you will find that it will continue to improve. The 1st treatment kicks up a lot of crud.

On the second oil change the oil from the pan is very dark. I'd attribute that to the MMO and would continue using it in place of 1 qt of oil (on 5qt capacity engines) every 2-3 o/c intervals, which is how I've been doing it for years. PS I do 5000 mile intervals between oil changes with no problems, and add a bottle to a full gas tank at least twice a year.

Liqui Moly Engine cleaner works 500% better. Only have to idle for 20 minutes. Then drain.

Add 8 to 10 ounces each and every oil change and it will clean no worries, it cleans over time. You don't want it to break loose all at once.

I’ve used marvel several times I’m a fan you have to run it for two oil changes it works really well

It is amazing how people don't read the instructions and make up.their own instructions. Even people that know how to read will do that.

I would suggest adding marvel mystery oil to your engine oil about 200 miles before every oil change from the time the car is new. That will do it excellent job of preventing varnish from building up like it has on this engine. Another Way to keep an engine clean on the inside is to replace 1 quart of oil with automatic transmission fluid. Automatic transmission fluid it’s basically oil with lots of detergent additives. If you do this every third oil change from the time a car is new the inside that engine will be much cleaner. If you were to take a rag and wipe a component on an engine that has constantly had this treatment the varnish will wipe off very easily. But honestly all I ever do myself is change my oil religiously every 3000 miles and I use quality synthetic oil. About a week before I do it oil change I always add a half a bottle of marvel. It’s not scientific but I’ve been doing this since my vehicle is new. I do not drive hard on the engine once the marvel has been added. I don’t drive hard on any of my vehicles ever. Marvel , gum out or Chevron fuel additives are good to add to your fuel on occasion. If I am going on a long road trip where I know that I will go through an entire tank of gas to get to my destination I sometimes will add two bottles of fuel additive because I know that it will not be sitting in my tank. When you take your car in for a injector service they basically run your car on pure injector cleaner. This is why I put a heavy dose of injector cleaner in my fuel before a long road trip. There’s nothing like an Italian tuneup to decarbonize your engine.

Hey Ali, love the videos, keep them coming. I bought a 2012 Camry in 2020 with 68k. The original owner took the car into the same selling Toyota dealer for oil/filter changes every 5k miles like clockwork. I change the oil/filter every 6 months/1250 miles (I am retired, I drive only 2500 miles a yr.). Before I drain the oil, I add 12 oz. of MMO then drive for 200 miles. The first 3 drains, the oil was black. I drained the oil yesterday (4th oil change) and the oil was brown but clear. In other words, MMO is working. Also, the brown film you see on your cyl. head is not sludge, it is varnish. MMO cleans sludge from the oil pan and passages, then prevents it from forming and building up. Cheers! (oil I use: Mobile One Extended 20k mile. filter I use: Fram Ultra Synthetic 20k mile.)

To be precise about the difference before dirty oil drainage you should change oil first, then pour in this additive, let it circulate and then open up top of the engine to see honest difference.

I bought a bottle of New Synthetic Marvel Mystery Oil. Will try it soon in my 2012 KIA Sorento, which has 102,500k+!!!

I went to cheap oil change shop once. They used recycled oil, I never went to that shop again. Recycled oil is no comparison to new oil.

Nice comparison, good video.

What causes sludge in your oil is not time or distance, its the temperature of the oil. The discolouring of the oil has nothing to do with the oil or temperature. Compression blowby, the soot from the combustion leaking past the piston rings is what changes the colour of the oil .No mater what or how much additives you add to your oil can change that. Look at the difference in the colour of the oil in a petrol engine and a diesel engine.

What would u recommend to use? Best results?

If you need to clean and flush the motor use Berryman B12, this will do what your looking for. I use MMO but only in the gas to lubricate the pump, injectors and valves. And this is done only after I use Berryman B12 in the gas to flush and clean the system. So Berryman B12 to flush and clean ( full tank of gas) then MMO to lubricate the system to keep it running smooth. In the oil I only add Bestline to keep the bearings micro polished and one step above just oil by itself.

Dimexid medical preparat is good, you just need to use it carefully, it even dissolves the paint

The staining isn’t per say going to be removed …..that’s not what’s it’s for . MMO is just a thin detergent , like synthetic oil or tranny fluid only even thinner , therefore it’s cleaning capability is higher. That’s all it does , but it does it well.

Back when it was invented, all oils were non detergent. The oils had parifen wax in them. The wax made oil stick to parts. This made a sludge that was very soft and very thick. It was low in carbon. Try 5000 kilometers next time. For the new sludge with minerals and high carbon I fill the engine with diesel and let it idle for an hour or 2. I watch the oil pressure, adding engine oil till the oil pressure is over 10 lbs. After this it will be much clearer. Change the filter again. Use high detergent oil. In 1000 k it will be dirty again, from the loose sediments. If so change it 1 more time .

I’d say a better quality oil and consistent oil changes would probably take care of your issue. Most engines build some type of varnish over time and it doesn’t hurt anything really. Now sludge is a whole different story. You play a dangerous game trying to flush an engine with severe sludge build up because the solvents tend to break up the sludge so fast that it falls into the oil pan and clogs the oil pump pickup tube.

Great review. I worked with an old guy that swore by it but always 6oz in 20 gals of 93 oct.

I own a turbocharged 3.5l Ecobost F150. I have used MMO at about 500 miles prior to oil change, since new. All oil changes are performed within a reasonable timeframe to a 3000 mile oil change interval. My truck has 69300 miles on it. I am getting an oil change today. About 700 miles ago, I put in one pint of MMO and checked the oil prior to install. It had not consumed or leaked any oil. It was completely full. I take diligent care of the oil in this vehicle because it is turbocharged and I understand the hazard of neglect.

I had seen this stuff on store shelves for many many years but never considered trying it because I figured it was more automotive snake oil like most fuel or fluid additives on the market really are. I was wrong on this one. Got a 2021 Camry with 75000 miles that had what sounded to me like valve tick and it was a bit obnoxious and it bothered me that it was happening on a 75000 mile Toyota engine. I bought it second-hand and I have a feeling the original owner never changed the oil the whole time they had it. Anyway, watched this video and read the comments here and decided to try it. I'm changing oil tomorrow so I put like 1/3 of a bottle in with the oil and put another 1/3 in the gas tank with half a tank of gas. The ticking went away pretty quickly. And when I mean went away, it's completely non-existant. And the car doesn't feel sluggish anymore. It's peppy and it moves! I do have to wonder if the MMO is doing something to the gas to make it combust better rather than just cleaning out injectors and stuff. I don't know but either way it's nice. Highly recommend!

Thanks for this, always wondered if Marvel actually helped

I change to liqui moly molygen..after three or four chang i can tell you its clean my upper part of the engine...definitely a notesible different also my friend use ravenol with the same result

The "new" MMO is now synthetic

This was a great video mate. I have a small mechanic channel too. I'm from the Dominican Republic, where are you from?

I would use a dedicated engine cleaner over MMO. Then I would add MMO to to the oil at the suggested 20% and just keep doing that at each oil change. MMO isn't a fast cleaner.

If the oil looked that bad after 700 miles it's doing it's job.

Would you use this in a turbo application also?

Love the channel. Straight to the point and easy to understand.👍

good job mamosta

Where does it say hoo long to run the MMO in the crank case for? Seafoam is 100-300 miles. But i cant seem to find information for this.

If put in gas tank Will clean fuel system N intake valves ports and boost the compression , the best stuff to put in ur high miles engine is called Restore its not for cleaning engine it's for restore n evening out compression with in 500miles u will feel the difference made me loyal customer of 18years my 2002 4.6mustangGT 5speed car gotten it new I've used only Mobil1 full syn summer 10w40 winter 10w30 with Motocraft filters , drive oil for ten thousand miles drove daily for 18years gots wee bit over 400000.0miles on everything still has original water pump FORD tough !!

I've heard quite a few mechanics here on YT that say....Don't be using these sort of products such as this or engine flushes of any kind. BUT, I have over a very long, long years! For instance: Back in 1975, I had a fellow worker tell me that his pop worked in a Chrysler manufacturing plant and he suggested that when it gets to where you are near to an oil change interval and your engine oil level is set to a half quart low, add a half of a quart of Dexron II transmission fluid to the engine oil and drive it for between 100-200 miles then change the oil and filter! BUT when you put 100-200 miles on the car, DON"T drive it hard and then drain the oil and replace the filter with a good one such as a Wix brand filter! HONESTLY though DO NOT do this on newer vehicles that were made after oh say after 2005 NOR TRY THIS on a vehicle that has the new API standards!!! Now, I've also used Marvel MO in with my my vehicles using about 6-8 ounces with fresh new oil for winter time use! Furthermore, I've used a half of a quart of kerosene to 4.5 quarts of oil yet IDLE!!! the engine for two minutes ONLY!!! when the engine had already been warmed up. THEN shut the engine down and drain, refill with new oil and filter. I've been doing these sort of things on ALL my beater cars that are either soted up with carbon and deposits for a VERY long time! Well now, if you have an engine that has wicked bad sludge problems, you BETTER think twice before attempting such measures BECAUSE you might end up clogging up an oil sump and starve the engine from oil and if your oil pressure goes south because of what you did; oh well you just might be out of an engine!!! Also, make DAMNED SURE that your PCV valve and PCV system is working correctly!!!

Great video brother 👍. So what can we use to clean the engine? Which one is you recommend?

I learned years ago not to flush the oil system in an engine.If there is sludge build up it washes out and circulates through the bearings and stops up the pick up screen. Also oil filters don't collect everything. If the engine is sludged up it is because of lack of maintenance, driving habits, extreme mileage, or a combination of the previous mentioned. What was shown in this video isn't sludge. At least not anything harmful. Today's engines just don't sludge or coke up like they used to. The oil is different, they heat up quicker and hotter, and the crankcase ventilation is better and no lead in the gasoline. In the 60's through the 70's I used to see sludged up engines every day but these days it is not as common. I don't know if there is any truth to it or if it is an old wives tale about the brown residue but I was told that was only the additives attaching themselves to do their job. Maybe it was just an answer because they didn't know what it was but knew it wasn't harmful.

Thx 4 sharing.

thanks bro.. but i see some video they used diesel mix with new engine oil (2 liter diesel mix with 2 litre engine oil) as engine flush agent.. they flush 3 times and result so clear on last flushing at draining port.. hope you can make experiment on it 🔥🔥🔥.. i

ATF works great and is cheaper. Can be left in crankcase also.

good job,,,,,I think seafoam would work better.....

It was developed to keep piston rings loose, before the advent of juice lifters.

Why didnt he change the filter on the first oil change? I think the filter should be replaced on every oil change. Also run the MMO for the full oil change interval, you get better results.

So, I'm guessing here, but after reading most of the comments, first time usage in a car with 130K miles, replace 1 quart with 500 miles left before regular oil change, next oil change add with 1000 miles left, same process again with 2000, then 3000, finally at 4000, then substitute 1 quart of regular oil with Mystery oil at regular 5000 mile changes. Just purchased a (2014 Toyota RAV4) using 0-20Full Synthetic Oil every 5000 miles. Any comments would be appreciated.

You have a direct injected engine and you put it in the fuel that helps lubricate the valves it'll bring back your back your mpg

Ever try using amsoil to see if it cleans up the motor? Or Amsoil engine flush. You have to rev it to get it to splash around.

I would say what you have there is not what I would call sludge! It's just a normal coating of varnish. That looks more like an engine that has been properly maintained and has miles on it? Above 100k miles I assume. My 99 Camry engine has that same type of varnish to it at 357k miles! I bought the car with 14k miles on it when it was a year old. I never let the oil get any darker then lite brownish. Never had black oil in it and there is no " sludge" on the cylinder head under the valve cover. Just lite brownish varnish and my compression is still at normal spec and equal across all 4 cylinders at 357k miles and runs quiet and great! Thing I did last 2 years that made a world of difference in many ways including power. Replaced fuel pump (was replaced once before), fuel filter (was replaced once before), and remanufactured fuel injectors (never replaced or cleaned before). Wow did I get much more power and throttle response! Night and day difference, the car still ran fine but was feeling slower and slower as time went by and I was hearing pinging sometimes (pre-detonation in the cylinders, or knock during acceleration especially with the AC on too). All that went away with the fuel system parts replacement and feels like double the HP I had before doing that work myself. (Fuel injector replacement was no fun because of where they are and you can't see much in there from above! More by feeling yourself around and using a mechanics mirror. Be prepared for the connector shells going to the injectors to begin to break because of age and heat. I ended up replacing all 4 of mine! Buy new ones and be ready to cut the wires. Splice new ones in, solder, heat shrink, DO IT RIGHT! Luckily for me was second nature as an electronics professional...

Valvoline VR-1 racing cleans for sure

Hard to tell any improvement. Very interesting though. Thanks.

You should use it full time, it works slowly and safely.

Is this safe motorcycles with the wet clutch and all

You can't just use one application and expect it to clean everything. The stuff works if you use it at regular oil change intervals over a period of time.

Thanks

You may find it works better if you use a new oil filter to remove all the contaminants in the oil. All you did was to add clean oil with dirty oil.

We're you buy that funnel please

I've used a lot of stuff, ATF, MMO, Sea Foam, Polyolesteres, even solvent flushes. None made spat of cleaning. Dont let it get dirty.

Im not sure how much VARNISH it will remove, but I've seen it loosen up sludge so it will drain out of the drain plug.

Yes, slightly cleaner. Use it some more. I believe it will even be cleaner..

You have to run it your car constantly to get results. I put it in all my cars every oil change . 500 to 1000 isn't enough time.

I have used MMO forever, but what I most often see is preventable sludge. In that engine that you took the top off, what i see comes from a failed PCV valve. I am assuming that this engine gets regular oil changes. Only a failed PCV causes that color oil in 3000 miles. Check that valve.

The only thing im concerned about is keeping my oil rings loose and not freeze up. I put MMO in every oil change.

only need to change engine oil regularly , done

Marella is just thst marvelous works great but you need to run a few k on the engine

Привет, попробуй с демиксидом от мыть двигатель

Use essential lube it is expensive but it is the best

MMO is good but i use it in the gas tank, And started to top off engine oil with High mileage oil

The best way to clean the engine is not to get it slugged up in the first place, keep up with oil changes and slugged up engine is destined internal damage you only cleaning the top of the engine what about the lower part/ oil passages /oil pick up tube.

Are you only supposed to leave MMO in for just 500 to 1000 miles? It can't stay in the engine for the full change interval of 5,000 miles?

Ali, good work. thank you. It seems MMO users "want to see a difference-regardless"

I have used liquid moli Engine Flash

Diesel Engine oil Like Shell Rotella Or Mobil Delvac will Clean a Engine Better they have More Detergents In them then Standard Regular Engine Oils and Yes you Can use Diesel Rated oils in a Gas Engine !!

Use Seafoam for a inside motor cleaner it works better.

install a catch can .. done

Weren't you also supposed to also add more Mmo?

I used mm0 to loosen up some Stuck set up And mm0 didnot not put a dent Nothing at all

Use diesel instead of oil, but do not start engine. Only allow engine to turn over many time to clean cylinder walls.

please to add a link showing from where we can get MMO in Iraqi market