Thank you for watching it ❤️ Water mixable paints are perfect as a start. However, you’ll still need to remember about oil painting rules like ‘fat over lean’ and so on. I hope that you’ll like them as much as I do!

I’ve worked with these paints for two weeks and it still feels strange that I can use water 😄 I bet with so many advantages I’ll get used to water soon!

I’m happy that it was useful! Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions ❤️

That’s great! Thank you for the info. Unfortunately, it’s not available where I live.

Glad it was helpful! I bet someday we'll go down to that! He always ready to play 😀

@@zarinasart In case you can't read the answer, here it is. It's interesting! -> Traditional oil paints use linseed oil as a medium and turpentine as a thinner. This arrangement exists because linseed oil, as a medium, is ideal for oil-based paint as it is the most commonly available drying oil. Turpentine, in turn, was the most commonly available solvent for thinning the drying oil medium. The properties of oil paint are dictated by the medium in which the pigments are suspended, and ultimately it's the medium that dictates the choice of cleaning solvent. What continues to be required are the drying oil-type properties, but modern chemistry allow these to be retained without using linseed oil as a medium. When I first approached this question, I expected either one of two major approaches. The first approach would be to use surfactants - surface-active agents that would effectively suspend micelles ("bubbles") of hydrophobic pigments and drying oil components from a water medium. Surfactants of this type would be able to achieve this by being strongly hydrophilic on one end and strongly hydrophobic on the other; presumably, once the water evaporated, the drying oil components would be released and polymerize normally. However, this would require drying oil components and surfactant agents to be in the tube of paint from the beginning rather than being added externally. The second approach would be to modify the medium to be hydrophilic in some way. The simplest way of doing this would be to take the components of a drying oil - linoleic acid is the most important - and hydrolyse the esters to have free linoleic acids; this makes soap, but wouldn't produce a huge increase in water solubility. The second approach would be to modify a portion of it to be hydrophilic, perhaps by sulfonation, to produce an equivalent surfactant effect to the first approach, except without an externally added molecule. This approach would have the advantage of being able to be sold as an externally applied medium for modifying drying time as with traditional linseed oil. A third approach, one that I did not really consider, would be to refine the oils in such a way as to have hydrophilic modified fatty acids (naturally occurring; see lipidlibrary.aocs.org/Lipids/fa_oxy/index.htm ) be overrepresented to make the overall mixture more hydrophilic. All three approaches seem to be used to an extent by different manufacturers. Some limited amount of surfactant seems to be derived directly from the oils, either through hydrolysis of the esters (essentially producing soap) or through the sulfonation of the resulting fatty acids (giving you compounds somewhat like sodium lauryl sulfate). Grumbacher specifically claims to have done some refining of their oil to make it water soluble. However, the common factor is the use of surfactant agents, all of them ethoxylated or propoxylated alcohols. These are compounds produced by reacting various alcohols with ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, two highly reactive compounds, which end up sticking alcohol ethers onto the resulting molecules. They are highly effective, low-weight nonionic surfactants. The ones I specifically found mentioned were 2-butoxyethanol (from ethylene oxide and butanol) and dipropylene glycol methyl ether (DPM; from the reaction of two propylene oxide molecules and methanol). These are pretty commonly used in a lot of applications. I'm not a toxicologist and don't want to be mistaken for one, but from what I've seen about these compounds they're at very little risk of being restricted for regulatory reasons. They're nontoxic to humans and are routinely used for agricultural applications to promote the wetting of leaves, especially in herbicide applications in very dry environments; their environmental half life is about 12 hours. Regardless, they hold on tightly to water and don't volatilize easily.

Thank you 😀

Thank you! I can’t say for all brands and series but this one is definitely worth trying!

That’s true! The transition from acrylics to oils is much smoother if you don’t need to dive into the world of mediums straightaway 😂

Oh, I've never heard about 'only for brush cleaning'! It's interesting to dig deeper into this theme because these differences (water for mixing or only for cleaning) can be really confusing and probably can cause damaging of the painting. I'm happy that Cobra doesn't have any issues with that. Thank you for your comment!

@@zarinasart Yes, many youtubers do not recommend mixing it with water. (I'm just starting with oil paints and Cobra fascinated me, but I was surprised by how many different opinions there are about mixing it with water so I'm trying to straighten my thoughts. ) Anyway, here's a brief explanation of how water works with Cobra Color - /b16CZjzjBEU?t=71 . Water is ideal for the lower layers (instead of turpentine). I guess it's not the best medium because of the speed of drying, spreadability and maybe the change in color as someone says, but in this mentioned case I don't see a problem. Anyway since everyone has a different composition of water at home, it is recommended to put a drop of painting medium in it. BTW classic cobra painting medium is actually made up of 50% of water so you working with watter anyway. I recommend watching their instructional videos.

I mix water with Holbein and Windsor N on top of Golden Acrylics… no problems…I am thinking about using tradition oils on top of that to see what t think… I love to work in layers with the strongest colors underneath…acrylics give me that, the others ar for blending and graying out

I use soap and water to clean my brushes even with 'usual' oil paints. It just takes a bit longer. Unfortunately, we don't have Gamblin here where I live. And I can't order it because mediums and varnishes are usually banned for international delivery 😞 Anyway, thank you for the recommendation!

@@zarinasart cobra makes there own mediums for there water mixable paints.

@@zarinasart I am seriously thinking about migrate in pursue of some art materials haha

You can mix cobra with traditional oil paint. I also mix it with watercolor, acrylic ink and sometime brush pigment. Watermixable oil quickly become my favorite. The effects I can achieve with watercolor and ink is unparalleled by using only oil. Just don't overnight them.

Yay! I’ll be happy if you share your impression about them with me!

Yay! I'm so happy to hear that ❤️

Glad you enjoyed it! ❤️

I’ve heard a similar opinion that water-mixables are better with oil. I can’t say for every brand but mine are great with water 😄

I’m happy to hear that my videos are useful! Soon I’ll add Spanish subtitles for this video ❤️

Glad you enjoyed it! 😊

I’ll be happy if you share your thoughts about Cobra after trying them! I’m always happy to hear different opinions 😄

Thank you ❤️

That's great! These paints will definitely be a perfect match for you! Thank you 😀

I've read about it, too! Sadly, it's not available where I live. Thank you 😂

Thank you so much for watching it 😊

Oh, then I'm so happy that the paints I've tried the first turned out to be the best! I wouldn't give them a second chance if they were thick and dry 😄

The Winsor & Newtons are the smeller of the two. I have both and Prefer the cobras, there just so creamy

Yes! Snooty! That’s a perfect word to describe what I felt towards them. Oh, I miss traveling so much. Thank you 😄

As far as I know, they were developed a bit earlier than traditional oils were banned completely. So they weren't popular at that moment. The ban gave them the recognition they deserved. Thank you so much for watching! ❤️

Thank you so much for watching 😊

I think it DEPENDS on the manufacturer. Cobra paints are called 'water mixable oil colours'. You can check it on their official website. Also, I clean my brushes with water anyway so there is no need for me to buy special oil paints for that. I think that it was true for previous versions of wmo because I've also heard a similar opinions. And I haven't tried other paints. So I can't say for all of them but I didn't have any problems with these exact ones ❤️

I'm so glad! 😊

Definitely! Nothing can beat this combination. Thank you for watching ❤️

I have a suggestion, if you might consider using the primary printing colors, which some artists use. The Cobra water-oil paints include Primary Magenta, Yellow and Cyan, which can be mixed to make almost any color, including a near black. I haven't gone that route, and bought the usual artists colors as well, but I intend to experiment with them at some point. They also sell some of the primary colors under the Permanent label.

@@stryker1999 I want to try those too ! After some more experience with painting I could now see myself getting rid of black altogether (I've been using mixtures of blues to emulate black and it works well) I'm certainly curious about the printing trio though and how dark it can get !

I can’t say anything about the oiling out process yet but I’ll definitely update the video after trying all mediums ❤️

And I fell in love with lavender spike with linseed 😁 but I really like your style and expertise so look forward to future posts on these. It’s be cool it they work

You’re welcome ❤️

Glad it helped! ❤️

Which colors were problematic for you? I have a feeling that browns and blacks are very nice. I’ve recently tried to work with yellows (cad yellow and lemon) and it feels that they are not as intense as Rembrandt ones 🤔 I need to continue my research.

Thank you 😄

I’ve heard similar opinions, too! Some artists complain that it has kind of a soapy look/feel. I didn’t have such problems yet. Maybe I need to try more colors 😄 Thank you so much!

Thank you for the recommendation! I’ll definitely check them ❤️

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you so much ☺️

Yay! I'm happy to hear that!

I've been watching a lot of videos about anatomy and did drawings and paintings. It's all about practice and being conscious about what you do. I'm almost always create my own references.

I've just added English, Spanish and Russian subtitles.

I'll definitely do that because it's an important question! Hm, that's an interesting theme because the manufacturer says that there is no problem mixing both. What you mention is a technique similar to oils over acrylics. I absolutely love the smell of oils. That was the number one reason why I chose them over acrylics. However, there is a big difference between smelling oils (and solvents) while you work and living in this smell (eating, sleeping, etc.).

@@zarinasart just like oils over acrylics, it is only logical that with the water based oils drying faster that these should be the lower layers and traditional oils which dry slower over the top. I live in my studio, so I'm surrounded by the smells all of the time. However, when it comes to the solvents, those belong outside.

Oh, I’m sorry if I misled you! I mentioned that I’ve read somewhere that the drying time is between acrylics and oils but in reality it’s not. These exact paints are drying as slow as oils. And for burnt umber even slower. I should have stated that more clearly in the video.

And of course it depends on the amount of water that an artist use. I was using just a tiny bit because these paints are already very soft.

@@zarinasart hmmm.... ok. I was going off advice a friend who worked in an art supply store gave me. But, I have a friend who is a professional art conservator who has worked for the likes of Christies and the Vienna Art History Museum. I'll check in with her also. I could report back to you about that if you like. It's interesting that you have found the drying times are similar. Yes, I guess like oils, the various pigments affect the reactiveness of the drying time.

I think it depends on what to compare them with. Have you tried oil paints that were less smelly? I need to try them 😄