Thank you much appreciated.

My camera work was pretty terrible but thanks! 😉

Its not sad. They sell parts. I'm a certified master tech. Its actually quite understandable 😆

theyre not mechanics with 25 years experience its silly you would expect them to be

Good catch! The shot must have been deleted in editing... But its pretty self explanatory.

@@dkenderdine79 All is well, still the video and all your effort are very much appreciated!!! I was being very attentive as a student who shall do the replacement for the very first time!!! Do I get a gold 🌟 for being very attentive and can I move to the front of the class??? Lollllll!!! Thanks again and please keep the video's coming!!! Bye for now!!!

OEM mopar is always best.

Cooling system funnel. I believe I got it from matco tools it's nice to have but not necessary

@@dkenderdine79 yeah, O'Reilly's wanted $45 bucks for it, and like you said, a backyard wrencher like me only needed it one time. Maybe I'll get one later, but for now you're right, it wasn't necessary. They had another regular funnel for $1.79! Did the exact same thing, thank you for the excellent video! First time job for me and thanks to you I did it right! Temp guage now hovers below the 210 degree level. Bam! 👊🏾

@@darrellwilliams4520 that sounds about what I paid for it, but it was worth it to me because I use it all the time for my job. Besides playing with Jeeps at home and making videos I'm a Master certified Technician for my day job 😉

@@darrellwilliams4520 -- I made my own funnel. I attached a piece of PCV pipe to an empty water bottle with duct tape (cut the bottom off the water bottle and PVC attached to the bottle threads). Then wrapped duct tape around the end of the PVC pipe until it was the perfect circumference to fit into the radiator fill. Worked like a charm and let the car burp when I replaced my upper and lower radiator hoses

Raise the front

@@dkenderdine79 thank you

I've found if it's compressed you don't have to wait long for it to set up. Then with the engine heat it accelerates it. Been a mechanic for 26 years never had one leak

Here is a link to the diagram for the lines. Hope it helps! www.google.com/search?q=2001+grand+cherokee+4.0+trans+cooler+line+routing&client=ms-android-verizon&sxsrf=ALeKk00PrttqI24h34RYw9RTDSlICYBgdA%3A1629206630639&ei=ZrgbYa2yJoSIggf3gJ24Cw&oq=2001+grand+cherokee+4.0+trans+cooler+line+routing&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQgAEM0CMgUIABDNAjIFCAAQzQIyBQgAEM0COgQIIxAnUI9iWPdmYLVsaABwAHgAgAG0AYgBigWSAQMwLjWYAQCgAQHAAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#imgrc=NjoQof7jrUF0OM

heater hose pipe

There is a solid state fan control module mounted behind the passenger headlight. They are known to fail. It's a small black square with a heat sink bolted to the fender well just behind the headlight. If you remove the headlight it's easy to get to. Otherwise it's pretty impossible to see

Coolant temp sensor.

Water pumps can fail in 3 ways. A leak at the bearing (the weep hole on the underside of the pump shaft will drain coolant) or the bearing will fail. (Loud noise and wiggly pully) or the impeller can rot and disintegrate causing a low flow condition. A good way to test your pumps flow rate is to disconnect the heater hose coming from the water pump at the firewall connection. Place it into a bucket and start the engine. If coolant pumps out rapidly the pump is working. If it doesnt pump out or is very slow the impeller is likely damaged. If your system has been closed for some time and they are no leaks its safe to assume the air has purged on its on (its designed to) you only need to purge it yourself when the system has been drained as in this video. Also note that your overheating can be caused by many factors including a bad fan relay, bad fan, bad head gasket or cracked head. If you can verify the fan works, and no coolant is being lost. Check the flow of the pump. If the flow is good assume the theromost is failed.

I actually agree, there are some very dumb Chrysler/Mopar engineering designs. If you have the 01-04 WJ 4.7L you know what retardation went into radiator removal design and the OE fan module being under the passenger headlight under a plastic layer you need to cut a 4" square into just to get into it and let airflow in. The failing door harness wiring is cheap wires that are 5 different gauges. The proprietary bolt sizes on sway bar link to bar. The hydrolic fan instead of a electric fan. The shroud eats up all the space and honestly not needed, no overheating here and I don't have mech fan just a 1350CFM 14" fan.

This is an 01 grand Cherokee only 1 multi speed E fan. No fan clutch. The factory thermostat does not have a bleed valve. Therefore I didn't mention it because it doesn't have one 😉

@@dkenderdine79 you good dude. You know your stuff.

I was very much wondering about the jiggle-valve location, myself!

The color means very little as long as it's compliant with Chrysler specifications for that year which most antifreeze is now. The red coolant it's just extended life that's the only difference