lol

🙌💯

Thank you! I'm glad you liked it 🙌

Thank you! 40 years is long time, that’s awesome! Yeah I’ve seen that technique! I currently temper in a kitchen oven (super accurate haha) so the blue back method is my go to. I also try to get it straight in that window right after quench.

@@mattwatersbladesmith Yours is a good method though especially if you are wanting a tough knife, soft back- hard edge!

Thank you!

I was pretty impressed by how well it worked. Definitely give it a shot!

Thank you!

Planishing is an excellent skill to have, but the real time saver is in the finish forging. It's always faster to forge thin than it is to grind heavy. I've been forging knives for over 10 years now. I've been through a lot of phases of hammer and tool types and maintenance levels and during all of the different experiments I've done planishing with everything from a custom blacksmith hammer with a mirror polish on a perfectly milled flat anvil, to a 100 year old rusty 4 pound sledge that was used for concrete stakes for 20 years on a piece of unfinished railroad track with all it's scars and pits. It honestly makes very little difference as long as it's not too rough. Obviously if it's smooth it will be better than if it's chipped and pitted, but there is no reason to polish the tool faces or to make them anywhere near perfect. You just need to hit it with a belt sander somewhere around 150-250 grit till it's not mangled and ugly anymore, and then get to work. Honestly, having a good handle on time and temperature, and preventing scale from building up is far more important. Surface scaring from forge scale will happen no matter how polished your hammer is and it's generally worse than any irregularities that you're creating with your hammer (assuming you have good control and technique).

@douglasyoung927 on handles the old timers had it right with octagonal handles.

@@douglasyoung927hello sir, I enjoyed reading your comment. What is planishing ? In layman’s terms ? I’m a newish knife maker

@@GerstBladeworks nearing the end of the forging, you can allow the steel to cool somewhat. Depending on the steel your using that may mean quite hot still, or a medium to dull red, or sometimes all the way down to just above room temp (generally we would never strike steel at a black heat). This allows you to hammer out all of the hammer marks, fine tune the bevels, center the edge, and straighten the spine without moving or warping steel. It makes everything more forgiving under the hammer for the very fine work. Depending on the temperature it can even knock off most of the scale for you. It's important to not confuse planishing for 'edge packing' which is a misnomer term that people often use to describe work hardening cold steel. Planishing is a term from old world manufacturing processes where the finished product was polished under a hammer at a blue heat (like when blueing the barrel of a firearm) to save on time and labor while still producing a beautiful and intentional finished pastina. Generally this would be done with basic carbon steels and agricultural steels at medium hardness levels. Things like plough and tiller blades, gate hinges, wagon hardware, and leaf springs. It was also used to stretch and polish non ferrous metals like brass and silver.

Thank you 🙏

Yeah it’s definitely a bit out there compared to a standard chef! But man it cuts so freaking easy, and the food release is just 🤌🏻

That’s legit!! It is really amazing wood. I was stoked to come across it. Glad you liked the knife!! Thanks for the comment 🙏

Thank you very much 🙏 I hope you do!!

Thank you very much for the comment and questions!! This is a style I am VERY new to creating. I’ll try to answer your questions. 1. The cut was good, but the blade was a bit thick for my taste. The edge was still very thin, and crazy sharp, but I think instead of convexing the flat side next time I’ll do a very shallow hollow. I really liked the asymmetric grind. 2. I think I’ll experiment with a taller heel in the next few versions of this knife for sure. And probably with both symmetrical and asymmetrical blades haha. So keep an eye out! Again, thanks for the comment :)

Thank you! I agree, they’re legit. Yeah I love Yakut knives!

Thanks for the fuller sanding tip! I'll keep that in mind on the next one. Glad you enjoyed the video!! - Matt

@@0num4 Thanks for the tip Matt..will also certainly bear that in mind..❗🤔🙇‍♂️ I find most of you Bladesmiths in USA very sharing with info as opposed to here in Africa..⁉️🤔🙇‍♂️🇿🇦

What I have found also works really well is a piece of hard foam rubber. Something like a nerf dart but with much more denser consistency To it. Follows most or any hollow groove easily. Without you having to clamp down on it to hold it. Less stressful on the fingers in the long run.

@@bernardhill1622bud. I’m also in SA which smiths have you tried reaching out to for advice or info. Most of the guys I’ve come across are very forthcoming with info to beginners.

@@delmaneboshoff5610 thanks for the tip!

Dude, Thank you for the advice!! That’s legit, I’m gonna definitely use that on the next one 🙏👍🏻

Thank you Josh!!

Thank you!

@@scottyelder8351 thank you!

Thank you! It's available www.watersforgellc.com/product-page/fullered-chef-knife

It’s beautiful stuff! I was amazed at how tough it is

Currently making a mallee root table with a glass top. Keep up the good work.

@@Throwsessive thank you!

@@mattwatersbladesmith you are welcome. I have been making knives,mostly throwing knives,,for a couple of years. A lot of stock removal. Leaf springs have been kind to me. I am gradually getting into the forging part. Thanks for your videos,they are quite helpful

Why thank you!

Thank you!

@@Anderson-HandForged thank you so much! Working on another video currently, should be out soon!

Haha yes, it basically is! It’s available:) www.watersforgellc.com/shop

Yeah you should!

Thank you!

Thanks Devin!

Thank you!

That is something I'll definitely try! Thanks!

@@mattwatersbladesmith don't forget to try champagne corks aswell

Thanks!

Hello from Colorado! Yeah it’s a bit thicker, not sure exactly how much. And it lost just a little bit of slicyness, but still cut pretty well.

thx for the Feedback

@@patkal3987 💯👍🏻👍🏻

Thank you so much!

I'm gonna have to make one like that too!

@@mattwatersbladesmith is a challenge for sure a friend of mine makes them in a previous mold and we hydraulic press it to have a general shape more closed to the desire one

I considered that. I would have needed to use a shallower radius to grind the hollow, one of the reasons I went with the convex

Upper fuller, probably not contributing much. I mostly just really wanted to grind a narrow fuller 😂 I think you're spot on, the convex matched by a fuller on the other side is what gives it the release. Thanks for the comment!

Thank you!

Thanks!

It is legit, you should!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Change it in what way? I personally like the integral bolster, but I'm sure it's not for everyone!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it 🙏 Greetings from Colorado 👋

I do custom knife drops as often as I can instead of custom orders. If you’re interested in snagging one, sign up for my newsletter!

Thank you btw!! 🙏

Yeah similar !

Thanks! I did clean it before it shipped out :)

@@mattwatersbladesmith I didn’t realize you planned to sell it. I’m glad you did. I’ve got a feeling you have enough knives 😂😂. Good knives should be used and that one looks like an excellent prep knife.

@@sambaggins2798 Thank you!

The knife from the video is available! www.watersforgellc.com/shop

@@csabavarady4711 thank you!! Appreciate all that :) I used 1084 steel!

@@mattwatersbladesmith How does the 1084 compare to the 1083 Shovel Spring Steel i used to supply to the Lawnblade manufacturers in 1976 which was a replacement for EN42F..⁉️🤔 What i do know is if your hardening & tempering is not done correctly you've got a potential foot amputating blade on hand..lots of shrapnel etc.❗🙄🇿🇦🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

For sure, those grits work way better for removing a lot of material quickly. I just had run out of them 😅

💯🙌

Thank you! It’s Australian Mallee Burl

Thank you!

I did forge a bit thicker on this one yes! But I think with the 36” radius platen (ameribrade sells one I bought) you can forge pretty thin still

Thanks!

Thank you! Yeah it really is one of the most important steps. I was taught how to normalize in the forge by Master Smith J.W. Randall and Kevin Cashen. Invaluable in my smithing career

Yeah, for this style. There is also a style called an "S" grind that is ambidextrous

That could be a good idea haha.

Not today taders!!

And thank you 🙏

Thank you!! 🙏 I switch to new belts so fast haha, it helps with getting crispy grinds. And I think it’s a sewing light off of Amazon? I don’t remember exactly, but it was like 12 bucks!

Thank you! Bill Benke tools, www.billbehnkeknives.com/store

Anyang

Thanks!

It’s not mine unfortunately. If it was I would be all about the power hammer 😅

Haha glad you found it!

@@mattwatersbladesmith hey btw, what kind of powder were you using for the flux?

@@GerstBladeworks borax!

It's a maker space! There is public hours, and then membership that gives more access.

That's awesome. I wish the town I lived in was a little bit bigger so that it could support something along these lines. Great job on the knife and thanks for sharing.

🙏

Sure do!

www.watersforgellc.com/

1hp. Which sounds pathetic, but for a 2x48 it’s surprisingly powerful

🙏