Wave speed is a function of period (19:45). But waves travel as a train (35:10), and the wavetrain speed is 1/2 of the individual wave. If a hurricane is 1,000 km offshore and is generating an 18 second swell, is the swell coming toward the shore at ~27.5 m/s (individual wave speed), or at half that speed?
@WojciechowskaAnna3 ай бұрын
its more complex, when wind swell from hurican is formed the energy of individual waves is tranvered - small waves feed large waves - one they group in more stable way (swell) the whole group travels with cg, but individual waves with wave speed - but note that indivuual waves do diminis at the front and end of wave packet. Also the group speed depends on the particular dispertion relation matching given case (deep water, shallow water etc).
@davidmestanza61586 ай бұрын
thanks a lot!
@user-bz3tr2nh6p Жыл бұрын
Hi my teacher assigned this lecture for our Oceanography class and it's a great lecture, I also watched your lecture on ocean currents. It's just that maybe your microphone is off because your voice keeps fading in and out and I keep hearing you breath into the mic and it's a bit distracting just fyi.
@svenholbik3043 Жыл бұрын
Yes. Thanks for the feedback. I'm planning on recording new videos and fixing the audio issues.