Thanks Matt, I'll try my best 👍

You're welcome 👍

Thanks :) There will be more.

You're very welcome :) New version of the website is coming out soon...

thanks :)

You're very welcome Sadiq 👍 Don't forget other things (if they are due), such as air filter, fuel filter, pollen filter.. If it has DSG gearbox - that needs occasional service/oil change.

Yes definitely. Im doing those aswell. Only thing I'm a little scared it fuel filter. I haven't got the time to do that and just don't want to risk it but that look straight forward. Thank you

You're very welcome 👍

You're very welcome 👍

You're welcome 👍

The front was raised, but the car was on a slope. So it was kind of leveled.

This one is quite simple..

You're welcome!

O Solak Iskreno - se zelo trudijo, da razumete .. Google Translator jezen, poskušali identificirati jezik. Zato sem se odzove na slovenskem (je še vedno možnost - Hrvatski). Hvala za komentar. Verjetno ni omenil, da je nemogoče, da strpati?

You're welcome 👍

Bitte 👍

Good point! Thank you.

Probably. I never had Tiguan, but I would expect them to be similar

Thanks 😊. Maybe I'm wrong, but I have never changed coolant just on it's own. Every time I change cambelt - lot of coolant comes out, then I had oil cooler recently. So it was always refreshed. However, generally speaking - I don't know how to do it properly, sorry.

@@wawayltd Understand you , thanks for replying .Do you still have your Sharan , what"s the current milage

I still have Sharan, it's on 422.000 miles. I don't use it as taxi anymore, so don't drive it much. I drive that Skoda now.

Do you mean engine management light? What fault code does it give you?

Even with car on the ground level is still within limits. At least it works this way for me and this car.

Its placed on a gentle slope, being end of the car the rear facing the upper part of it.

VW specified oil change intervals are 15.000km (9.400 miles). Yes, you should top up the oil if it's too low.

I'm ok thanks 😊 Just can't find any time for more filming..

Hi Ramon, thanks for all your comments :) Glad to know that you like them :) I must say that it's not necessary to put same comment on many videos, otherwise KZfaq will treat it as "spam". When you comment just on one (any) of my videos - I will still see that, eventually, when I get back to my computer. As I understand G69 is throttle position sensor, and for diesel engine throttle is not controlled by accelerator pedal - on diesels it mainly stays fully open and works just like a flap to help to shut the engine when necessary. However it can clog up or get faulty. I have a couple links for you. Here is a forum page about it: www.forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=484986 And here is one of my videos, but with different car (Audi A6): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iN2BZNReqsmrZWw.html

OK for the notice, and thanks for the links

Could you answer this question, please: Have you ever changed the throttle body, or do you know of any video about it? Thank you

I have replaced throttle body, not on this car, but on my previous one - Audi A6. I have a video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iN2BZNReqsmrZWw.html

Thank you

Correct. But it was parked on a slope, so when the front was lifted - car was horizontal.

It really depends on many factors: driving style, city or motorway, type gearbox, if your car 4motion it will drink a bit more..

I've replaced the gearbox oil after 300.000 miles, it seemed to be pretty clean. Don't feel any difference

Thanks! 32mm for oil filter, 19mm for sump plug.

@@wawayltd thanks for that, I actually mean the set of sockets you use for all your jobs, it looks like a Halfords set i think.

I have few sets by now. The one in that video (1/2 inch) I bought in B&Q while ago. Small 1/4 inch is from Halfords. I have lot of tools bought on eBay. Also MachineMart is good.

Thanks! When I lifted it there was a little slope, so in lifted position it was actually straight.

@@wawayltd ah that explain a lot 👍 couldn't see it in the video.

EGR valve is one complete unit with cooler, and it's located on a back of the engine between engine block and DPF, therefore about half year ago, I decided to make two nice videos - first about DPF (because you need to take DPF out to get to EGR) and then second about EGR. I got stuck with 3 nuts and studs that connect DPF to the exhaust. Because of moisture and heat they got corroded really badly. I tried to turn one of them and it just snapped, and I can't take remaining bit, because it's not a bolt, but stupid stud, I can't punch it out either even after heating it up, because suspension of the exhaust absorbs most of the punch... So I'm kind of stuck with it, and the thing is - my Sharan is my work horse, I'm driving my taxi 7 days a week and I don't feel like taking my car of the road fighting that DPF, unless it's necessary for the car itself. Currently, I depend on my taxi work too much, so all videos about Sharan that are made would be either that can be done in 2-3 hours, or something that needs to be done anyway. So that's a story in Balamory ;) At some point in the future, I'll make videos (and manuals at my website) for all of it - EGR, DPF, turbo etc...

What does the egr valve look like so I know what I'm looking for please?

This is what it looks like (someone testing it in this video): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lap0o7V5mJfLgGg.html And before you get to it, you need to remove DPF, I have unfinished, unpublished half a video, I hope you will be able to see it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/es6igcupntPGkps.html And here is another video explaining DPF on TDI in general: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mZ12a9iYtKe-pGw.html

Hi, maybe at some point in the future, when I'll have time for it..

@@wawayltd if you could that would be great because mine is a temporary fix at the moment

You can get Elsawin - very good manuals for VW. I recommend. You can buy it cheap on eBay. That should help your problem.

@@wawayltd thanks I will have a look

That gasket, or as I would call it - washer, normally on VW is such diameter that it can't be taken off the bolt, so if you want to replace it - get the new plug. I don't replace it every time, just look at the state of it and replace if necessary.

@@wawayltd Good to know the washer can be reused!😀 I'm about to buy a new plug with washer and the washer is made of aluminium. Do you know if the oil pan is made out of aluminium/light metal or steal? I think it's supposed to be a aluminium washer but some sites sell the oil plug with copper washers and claims it's compatible 🤔

I think the sump made of aluminium alloy. I also think that both copper or aluminium washers are compatible, probably aluminium will last longer.

@@wawayltd thank you for your help!

I think that good oil doesn't require any additives.

You can use either diagnostics device (as to all cars), or there is another way - with combination of clock buttons and button on wiper lever. I'll try it on my car (when I get to it) and let you know.

Because I have steering wheel controls, I don't have these extra buttons on wipers lever, so I can't show it in practice. You need select "SETTINGS" screen on your dash, then use controls on your wipers lever - use switch at the tip of it to scroll and button at the bottom to select an action.

WheelsAndMotors Thanks works fine by holding both buttons upon ignition switch-on

My mileage now is close to 200.000 now and I'm expecting to take it to half a million :) The standard oil service schedule is 15.000km or 9.400 miles - when you reset service on your dash, it shows 9400 miles to next service. There are some "Long Life" oils that meant to last twice long. I've done a little research on that and quite a lot of mechanics and car enthusiasts are sceptical about it. What I do - use long life oil and replace it every 9400 miles. Yes, the oil will be dark in diesel engine and it's normal, diesels produce tiny particles of soot and because purpose of oil is to lubricate and clean the engine - it gets dark/black. In fact - when you'll replace your oil - drive around the block - it will become dark. Someone told me story about a mechanic that had unlimited access to engine oil and he was replacing oil every 1000 miles and eventually got to the stage when oil was clean. Not sure how necessary is that :) Maximum oil temperatures I get is about 110 - that's when doing 75mph up the motorway hill. While driving in the city - it's between 93 and 98. Not quite sure why your Vito didn't get over 80.

WheelsAndMotors ok. so it's normal to be 110C when on Motorways.

When it works hard - like going up the hill. Normally I get about 100 on motorways. Please mind - we are talking about oil temperatures, not coolant...

I have like 230K miles which is about 370K km. I don't have any major issues. But it all depends how the car was looked after. I'm a taxi driver and I drive a lot, often go to motorways so my engine warms up properly and burns all soot - so far I haven't seen DPF light on. If the car you buy is diesel and previous owner only was doing short city trips, then it might have some problems. Also, I service it regularly with suitable oil.. However, I must say - if you look after it, it's pretty reliable car. You can have a look on my channel, I tried to film any repair (almost), so you can judge how good or bad it is.

What about turbo ? Currently I own a astra h caravan and the turbo should be repaired every 40-50k KM ?

I didn't have problems with turbo, but I can't guarantee that all Sharans don't have problems with turbo. My car even seems not to eat any oil - it doesn't ask for top-ups between services.

Yes, you're right, car must be on even surface. In that video even though cars front was lifted, it was a bit on a slope, so I thought those two will cancel each other. I should mention that in the video.

Cool, thanks. Otherwise it's spot on. Well done you! 😉

Thanks 😊👍 Now I have garage and don't have to look for random awkward places..

Thanks :)

Lots of people for some reason think that oil viscosity is the main criteria. I'm looking for VW approval code, in my case it's VW 507 00. I change oil every 9.400 miles (15.000km). My Sharan is currently on 406.000 miles. Here is the link explaining oil specs: www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

@@wawayltd Thank you for your answer and the link.

@@wawayltd is it the original engine?

Yes, it's now on 423.000 miles and still running.

@@wawayltd wow that’s good to hear. My 2016 Seat Alhambra is only on 66,000 miles. Out of interest when did you change the cam belt? And are you still using 5w30?

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind if I decide to do it in Germany 😊👍

If we are talking about manual gearbox, there is a plug on the bottom and on the side, open both, drain, close the bottom one, and fill out through the side. It takes about a litre. However, it stays pretty clean. Manual should last a lifetime. I've replaced it on over 300k, it was normal. If it's DSG automatic, it's complicated - I don't get involved.

The only time I would use a flash is if I bought a car, old, and I don't know what is inside there, but only for the first time. I don't use flush for my car. I've done some research and found out that most mechanics and DIY enthusiasts say thay flush doesn't help the engine and if used regularly can even make it worse (have a look in Internet). If you are using good correct oil - it's designed not only lubricate the engine, but also clean it. Also there's nothing in manufacturers manual about additives for oil - or some of them don't recommend it. So my answer is no, apart from some special occasions. But not on my car - I use good oil and change it regularly.

Lots of people mistakenly think that viscosity (like 5w30) or specific brand is more important that real VW recommendation, such as 'VW 507.00'. The oil I'm using is also long life (although I change it more often than LL), and has VW approval 507.00 which recommended for diesel engines with DPF. This article link below will help you: www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

Yeah, it was on a slope, so when I raised it, it leveled up. Not the best way of doing it, but I've done like that back in a day 🙄

There's lot of speculation which oil to use. I had one guy saying - "no-no! You must use only Castrol and only 5w30!" Some people for some reason mistakenly take viscosity values (such as 0w30 or 5w40) or a brand as reference. The correct answer is in you owners manual book. It won't tell you viscosity, it might tell you brand, but that's I think just purely marketing purposes. They show VW oil spec numbers, such as VW 505.01 or VW 507.00 etc. So for our Sharans, we must look fully synthetic oil with VW approval - VW 507.00 Here's link to very good article explaining VW oil specifications: www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

WheelsAndMotors Lastly a question. Why have you not replaced the 19mm bolt to drain plug. I ask many people and they recommended to change it. If so where can I get it.

I normally replace it every 2nd or 3rd time. With mileage I do, I have to change oil every 2 months, so nothing happens to this bolt (it's called sump plug) in couple months. With my previous car I never replaced it in over 400.000 miles :) You can buy sump plug in the same place that sells you oil and filter, it costs like 1.50 - 2 (pounds).

Normally after long use and re-use it's washer that's wears out. But with our cars, you can't take it off the bolt, so you have to get the bolt and the washer, as I said before - it costs nothing anyway.

😁 There are few miserable people out there, don't even have to be mechanics..

It's not only about money saving. When you do it yourself, as for yourself, you know it will be done properly and not a screw will be lost..

My garage just put 5L in do you think this is a problem??

What does it show on a dipstick?