What happened ?

@@Bsillest271 better off to Google it than for me to re-post

Why so cryptic?

@@lynngordon2364 because I don't have all the details, I don't have time to find all the details and I don't have a link to an accurate representation, so I don't want to attempt to tell half a story. He isn't alive any more.

@@andrewdineen2387 I'm sorry to learn this. So tragic. I wish I could tell him how much I enjoyed his videos

Houston thank you so much, my friend!

Your kind words are very very much appreciated, my friend! Will keep making more for the future!

Thank you very much for those kind words, my friend. I hope I can bring more content on KZfaq in the future, but i tend to focus on my Instagram these days. Please always feel free to reach out over there!

Thank you so much, my friend! New territory here so will continue to learn to use it better!

Thanks for taking the time for the kind words!

Thank you, my friend for those words! I know this isn't exhaustive, but I hope that it covers enough scenarios to give folks a great starting point. Hope they end up being helpful for you!

Thank you so much, my friend!

Gabriel Ibañez of course, my friend! Thank you!

Awesome to hear, my friend! Cheers!

Incredibly appreciated my friend. More detail in a comment above for donations, but I will prioritize any donor's questions for future video topics!

Extremely appreciative of the kind words! Hope to keep making them better as the weeks go by!

@@CodyBradford I think it's great to have a giant collection of various bolted anchor types that you might come across. I've seen new climbers panic when they come across unfamiliar anchors. It's also fantastic that you share about the ethics of leaving gear and when to use your own vs lowering on fixed pieces. Keep it up!

@@xchinvanderlinden Agreed and I hope to add more to this subject in the future! There are some weird ones out there, but for now, this will be the last one out in the real world for a bit since I filmed it long before we all went into isolation.

Pete Best I do utilize my rope for some anchors! Mostly for monoliths and such. I have some Tech Tips on my Instagram that demonstrate these. There are certainly times at a standard bolted anchors I also utilize the rope with clove hitches on the pieces of gear and down to a masterpoint, but that is far less common. I would say less than 1% of the time for myself as a guide. The trade off with rope as anchor is that swinging lead becomes more challenging if there is not a ledge where both climbers can be unattached at the anchor. The two situations I use the rope as an anchor most frequently is at the top of a route where we can walk off (so typically a tree or boulders, etc) or on the anchor I am going to rappel from (using my pre-rigged device and a knot below to belay my partner(again see my instagram for that tip)). Hope that sheds some light!

Cody Bradford This is super helpful! Thanks so much Cody!

Certainly! I suffer no illusions that lowering wears anchors more quickly. However, we can take steps to ensure they last longer, and that is the easiest one!

Edelrid bulletproof quickdraws are fantastic for putting up to TR / lower off, the steel inserts last forever especially at sandy crags. I have 2 of those and 2 of the bulletproof lockers for my TR quad. Still look brand new after 2 seasons.

Also works! Just depends on the context and a locker draw can just add simple security, quickly!

Can do! For now, its just Venmo (@thecodybradford) and I'm saving for a microphone and mirrorless or dslr camera for future recording and editing! Also, all of those who are donating, I'm prioritizing things they want to see in future videos! Thank you!!!

Cheers!

I recommend using that style of anchor as I demonstrate around 8:55

While fairly uncommon, it certainly happens. I always carry at minimum 2 cheap/found carabiners that I am prepared to leave behind!

Essentially, yes given the right conditions. If there is another party(s) using the anchor, that becomes impossible. There are other methods at play at that point, but this is the easiest way if another party or yourself wish to thread the anchor and rappel while it is in use.

Ok, got it, thanks for your answer. A different question I have: do you find it problematic to use Twist Lock carabiners on a PAS to connect yourself to an anchor? I was recently confronted with this question, as I saw a video on how easily Twist Lock carabiners can unlock if rubbing occurs. Makes me believe that if a rope rubs against the lock the wrong way, it could lead to some danger. Tried to find more online resources on the dangers of Twist Lock carabiners, but can't find a lot more. Would you recommend using Screw Lock, Triact Lock or Ball Lock carabiners as alternatives? Or do you think the probability of Twist Locks unlocking itself is pretty low. Thanks again.

@@kachingwohoo Apologies for my late reply! These somehow get buried in my inbox. I do find that twist locks can open, but this is usually due to gate flutter when oriented upwards at the station. Meaning, when I clip my tether carabiner (clove hitch 99.0%) I "clip it and flip it" so that the gate screws downward. This is not an issue when belaying off of the harness, typically. I do find that twist locks are more secure in general, but I do not think they will add any particular safety on a rock climb where you are constantly able to check it and just screw it back shut. Not to mention that an unlocked carabiner does not mean failure. Given that they only have one use, they are of little use to me on a rock climb where clipping and unclipping is very common. On a glacier, I will typically utilize a double action carabiner since I am rarely taking it off.

@@CodyBradford Ok, I got you. Thank you so much for answering my questions! Really appreciate it :)

and you literally cover that in the next 30 seconds... disregard lol. only problem with this method is like you say, once the chains are loaded its annoying to get the biners out. I've had annoyances with it but for the most part it doesn't seem like too much of an issue when cleaning. At the end of the day it makes me feel better about the way the biners are loaded while climbing

@@CasaDelMandar Agreed with that last point as it is only a minor issue. One in which you become accustomed to dealing with later when your bandwidth has increased. To the first statement; when your carabiners are in the hangers, especially on the bottom, the rappel rope will then pinch the carabiners into the anchor and also load over the entire set up once the rappeller goes vertical, unless the edge transition is nearly horizontal. The benefit of both the rope and your carabiners being in the rings is that you can equally load both without interfering with the other, especially when there are large rings.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Nevada, US! One of my favorite climbing locations on Earth!

How?

Very much appreciate that! There has also since been more info to come out about this after an injury free incident occurred to one of my instagram followers, wherein they took a leader fall onto a bolt that had a quicklink within the bolt. The carabiner sat on top of this said link. After a number of falls, that force was enough to break the carabiner, causing a much bigger fall, so you're definitely right. Since then, I am much more picky about the loading and will only load over the links if I will need to transition to a rappel and only if that stance is hanging and unweighting to retrieve my gear would be difficult.

@@CodyBradford Don't we have the same issue here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oLxjfMWg0M6Xp40.html ???

Thank you all!

mattiti we have those too!! Never fun to arrive at one 😰

Designate certain carabiners to be the metal on metal biners and others for rope biners