HEADS UP! We know about the fake YT accounts saying you won. They are FAKE accounts. You will NEVER win anything from a comment. We will NEVER ask you for personal info, money, or additional details. The fake accounts do not have the official YT check mark next to them. They are just trying to get money from you. Click on their account and report it. -Justin

Hey Justin, I just want to say you don't really owe us followers for sticking around. The amount of knowledge you contribute in the public domain is worth it's weight in gold. Thanks for being so generous with your time. I wish you surpass your goals.

The pins and the flange are for cabin heat, there is a shroud that covers it and air is forced over the surface and pins as a heat exchanger.

Hi Mr. Justin, thank you for the video. I play with airplanes and the original exhaust was steel in the 1930/1940 but as soon as they went to stainless steel, they started using a 321 stainless which intern uses a 347 filler. The 321 is cladded with titanium to help with the heat cycling, but I agree with you once the part is 70 years old. It has earned retirement.

Yes... the wire brush is too much load for that thing 😂

Sr George Utah here, My neighbor might have got your McDonalds, we were talking and here comes the delivery guy. Def didnt order it, but his name is Justin too! I made a WMO order to make up for it. Id also love to win the welders, my everlast are ok, but those would be better. ;) Your smelling avgas, and its 70 years old, its probably actually lead that has built up and then melted into everything. Lead starts offgassing toxic fumes around 800°f. Lead is clumpy and sludgy and doesnt like to flow out.

I do a lot of repairs on similar exhaust pipes for aircraft and I use the nonwoven rust/paint removal roloc wheels in two inch. They work great to get to that shiny weldable goodness without removing any material

It is also possible the part is inconel as it’s a commonly used alloy for aircraft exhaust

I have done many of those same repairs, I make my customers aware of all the things you mentioned and leave it up to them and nine times out of ten they will ask me to do the work. Honesty is the best policy!

I am a novice (hobby) welder from the UK and I find these videos so informative - thanks.

the angled grinder is only ment for 2 inch attachments, tried 3 inch myself and it doesnt work, atleast not with wire brushes, a lighter sander might work, but stick with 2 inch stuff and it will work nice. ( had mine for over 4 years now.)

Justin I took your stainless and aluminum TIG courses four years ago and it was without question the best money I’ve ever spent. The various platforms you’ve created to help others learn are incredible. What ever happened to the car you were building?

Challenging jobs like this make us better welders. Even if there is a 100% chance of failure. Even if you don’t get paid for this job, it’s still a great learning experience. Remember, experience is priceless.

This angle die grinder is designed for high speed low force. I've had good success with 3 in Scotch-Brite Roloc. Assuming your wire will is designed for a drill, the max rating is 4500 RPMs. I noticed you had it on the the the highest setting, which I believe is over 20,000 RPMs. It's also kind of dangerous. Hate to be the safety nerd.

I have over 20 years of dealing with jobs like this and worse taken by my employer. Great job showing true hard work with experience and the difficulties that come with these types of jobs. Making sure the customer knows the very high possibility of a failed outcome is very important. Great video dude! Don't take the bad ones😂

I used to subscribe to a LOT of welding and fabrication channels, now I follow maybe four or five and you are by far the best one. You have the natural ability to be able to make learning as interesting as it is educational. You're a great instructor / teacher, and a fantastic welder/fabricator. Thanks

I suspect it is virtually impossible to truly clean lead off of a piece of pipe as you tried .- lead is forever. Nice to see when even a professional struggles - it gives me hope that my technique will improve.

The glow is caused by higher content of chromium and a few other metals that are used in aviation stainless. That's quite the nasty stuff and I wouldn't go near it without a respirator. So people should really appreciate the fact that you do all this just to teach us! Love to see you work.

Hi Justin， just wanna show my respect，you are a great person to show us free welding lessons. I really like your expertise and your spirit. I cant imagin how hard it is to work in such a hot place. Take care of your throat!🥤

When you mentioned the smell of avgas, I figured lead would be a potential hazard. Your instinct to wear a respirator was a good one. Thanks for a very informative video!

Hey, Justin! I can't thank you enough for these videos. I've learned so much from them.

Still don’t understand how this channel doesn’t have millions of subs.

Great job Justin! Now I know what to expect on a heat-cycled piece. Thanks

I'm thrilled with the announcements at the end of the video. Congrats on your success, and best of luck in the future. I was speaking with some of the guys at the annual Shelby Dodge convention this year, and not surprisingly, we all watch your videos. Keep them coming.

That weird smell may actually be lead contamination as aircraft can run "Avgas" which still contains lead to up the octane. I have welded an exhaust off a plane that has run Avgas before and it is a very distinct smell along with the white fume that looks almost like an incense burner.

Hey high speed, drink some buttermilk and honey to soothe your throat. I’ve been watching your videos for a couple or three years, and I enjoy watching your high enthusiastic and professional approach to welding and fabrication. No I’m not asking for an instructor position, I know I’m not one your looking for so I’m not trying to butter you up. I just wanted to let you know I’m impressed with your willingness to share your tips and the strive to make name for yourself with the skills you have. Keep it up, and don’t forget to take a break once in a while so you don’t burn yourself out. Best of luck Justin!!

That ring around the aircraft exhaust is for the cabin heater and the carb heater. It’s a shroud that goes around it, the nubs are to help transfer the heat to air, airflow comes from the prop airflow / movement thru the air.

Much love from So Cal, appreciate you for this walkthrough and countless others. I've been tuned in since your tube bending series and can't tell you how much i've learned from your channel alone. As for this video, thank you for sticking through the +100 degree weather, getting the raspy voice, and still being a good sport about it. Take care!

Glad you're able to be back. The way you break down what you're doing in the videos is enjoyable to watch. As much welding as I do teach, I wish I had all the skills needed to come work with you. Maybe one day.

Justin, your enthusiasm is contagious, I have never seen you this pumped up before......... congratulations on your growth and plans for the future........PB

Blessings from Kissimmee FL brother I am sorry about the fumes and the reaction on your throat I had experienced something like that years ago when melting lead I hope you feel better soon Take care bud

Thank you for letting me watch you weld. Your talking as you weld helps a lot. If my view through my helmet was as good as your video I could be a better welder. Keep up the good work. Gene

35:00 I don’t know if many noticed this but the tungsten tip to work distance was incredible. The control he demonstrated after the arc did its wandering after startup was insane, unlike in a straight line keeping that tungsten soo close across the uneven radius corner takes incredible skill and concentration to not dip the tungsten. The fact that he did dip the tungsten before the shot goes to show just how difficult and uncooperative this piece was being. Porosity aside most people would struggle with the skill to even replicate the result so YES your intention to pick and choose your jobs, refuse the jobs that demonstrate potential issues got across … (at least it did for me).

Thank you for covering this topic Justin.

Great content! And 2 wonderful gigs. I wish I could...

Man great work. The videos you have produced are fantastic, I've learnt a lot over the years from watching them. Congratulations. Keep it up.

What a great teacher. Someone that enjoys what they do and shows the rite way to do it is priceless. Thank you for another great tutorial :-}

Most the moisture your seeing during pre heat on the metal is a biproduct of the torch combustion. Its condensing on the cool metal stops once it heats up.

The stud setup is for the cabin heating, on a lot/most small airplanes they heat the cabin using exhaust heat, pulling air through a shroud around the manifold, the studs help with heat transfer.

I'm super excited to see TFS coming back into your focus! Super excited to see what you cook up! I'm sure it'll be spicy! :D

As already stated, your skillz are top shelf! I was watching that forward back and thinking wow, then you commented on it to confirm what I was seeing. I doubt I'll ever attend a class or do welding for money but I definitely want to thank you for posting up these type vids for us hacks out here melting metal and trying to claim it as welding. Keep up the great work!

Definitely long time tfs fan. Thanks for your tips and tricks.

A great tutorial, thanks.

So glad to see TFS back up againb and understand hat it had to take a hit for you to get weldcoach up and runnin. Honestly watching TFS is what inspired me to get into metal fabrication so I am going back to school at 46 to start over. RTeached the top of my last career and was not rewarding anymore so on to the next chapter just waiting to hear back about a fgrant to go back to school since it is something that is offered in the area I live and the tool grant will hjelp iommensly especially with purchasing an AC/DC tig machine for myself along with a plasma cutter

FYI! I have the right angle M12. It's only, ok. Does what yours does, but much less so. Point of post, I discovered the RYOBI pistol grip die grinder, and it is awesome. Lots speed, and torque. No stalls! I got mine on sale for $99 bucks with 2 batteries. I love it!!! I think it was as much as $179 bare tool. I'd say it's worth it, even at that price. I really have no brand loyalty any more. This RYOBI is actually very very nice. Comfortable in hand, and lots of power. I will buy another for sure. I haven't tried the M12 straight die grinder yet.

Awesome content as always!

Dear Justin, still here and always a fan of you and the Channel.....best regards from Orlando, Paul

great content! i can relate to battery tool frustration.

This makes me feel a lot better about my welds! Im a machinist jit a welder but i do 90% of the TIG jobs at work(ive been TIG welding for years unprofessionally) but we usually get dirty, old, irreplacable parts for old equipment, and if YOU can't make every weld look like a banger, i feel good about my welds on similarly fugged parts not looking like IG welders lol. So far knock on wood nothing has come back. Thanks for the content

As always Justin, a great video on a great channel. I am an old dog and yet you teach me new tricks with each video. With great respect.... Joe

Q douse to you sir. For what you’re doing hope you get the right people to help you going forward. Look forward to seeing what you have to offer. All the best 👍 Bob.

I recently started a welding/fab job with a heritage steam train company here in the UK. So I can totally relate to the frustrations of working on 70+ year old parts that have had countless heat cycles through them, most everything is also covered in grease and soot haha

nowhere near vegas, never welded a thing in my life, no nothing about video but what you're doing is great!

Amazing camera work, as always! Great episode. Can't use those big attachments on the mini right angle grinder, it overloads it for me. Works great for using smaller attachments where you don't want a big angle grinder. Also works really great for cutoff wheels (it can handle larger ones of those).

Thanks for another great video

As an aircraft mechanic, I clicked as soon as i saw the aircraft exhaust. This video shows very well the reasons most aircraft exhaust repair stations end up replacing all but one or two flanges with new metal. Reusing just a few components makes it still considered a repair instead of a new part despite almost all of the original material being replaced, similar to the ship of Theseus.

A great way to get a cheap Forced air hood is to get a mattress inflator that’s battery powered and then you put lithium batteries in it or regular old batteries doesn’t matter .A flex hose ,add a filter and a nice piece of very flexible inch diameter hose to go into your helmet and you’ve got it without spending 1500 or two grand . You might need to slow air air down with a Rio stat or lower voltage . They blow very large CFM in stock form.

I have both Milwaukee grinders too at work and a set for home. I have a love hate relationship with them. They are kinda limited to 2” attachments. I use the straight one mostly for carbide burrs and the right angle one with a roloc attachment and a 2”-3” flap disc. And other attachments works good for quick deburring of a saw cut or paint stripping. Wish they made a little higher power set. Good video 👍👍

Great video. I’m sure you’ve saved some novice welders a lot of time and money with the experience you’ve shared!

I bought a Milwaukee rotary tool. The first one died after a couple uses. It was "repaired" once (they didn't return the collet nut) and then replaced under warranty after it failed again. On this one, any signifcant load and it quits, but will restart after a few seconds. I still rely on the corded Dremel for extended use.

I won't be your first student but definitely one. I've always wanted to learn that for automotive racing purposes. Currently debating if to purchase a mig welder to do the famous E46 chasis reinforcement repair

Hello Sir! very interesting content we have the same tutorial videos and inspirational to others and i want to learn more about weld repairs. thank you have great day

Im a huge advocate for those milwaukee die grinder you have there. Been using them for a long time. Pick yourself up some 2" "Roll Lock" discs and a 2" arbor. I personally really love using the scotchbrite versions, you can get way more aggressive with a flappy wheel style Roll Lock. They're great tools budd! Asking the wrong thing from it - by putting a 4-5" wire wheel and jamming it into the piece. Please order this up, and give us a review in a following video! Thanks again! Love from Canada.

Dream job right there, would definitely be able to jump in and take control of the role, HELLA not in the right spot in life to come and join TFS. Not even remotely close. I'll stick with wrenching for Tesla for now.

I'm gonna have to get me that Milwaukee tool... It looks like such a tried and true success!

I have the same grinders: like other commenters have said, they work great with smaller wire brushes, but struggle with too much load. I use mine for the scotchbrite disks.

A few comments from people familiar with aircraft parts suggested this exhaust may have been Inconel not 304, 310, 316, or some other austenitic SS material. If you are convinced that an unknow material is stainless steel, but unsure of the grade, a good option for the consumable is ENiCrMo-3. It will work as well or better than E309 on 300 grade SS material and definitely better if it happens to be Inconel. The only cavate is that it is expensive.

Very interesting video ! Those struggles are real, I've been there several times. Sometimes, in Aluminium, I've just added filler, ground it down, and more filler again and again. In a sandblasted non aluminium part, I'd probably recommend stick welding, as it's less sensitive. In this case, with so thin stainless, stick welding is probably not an option though. So just keep on struggling with the TIG it is 😅

I have the M12 RA die grinder and it works great with 1”-3” roloc discs. I do use a 5ah or 6ah battery with it though.

I was a welder in another life, but finished my career as a welding inspector in the petro-chemical industry. We often have to weld new material to existing material that has been contaminated by process fluids. While meticulous cleaning of the old material is helpful, there are often contaminants within the grain structure. A technique referred to as "buttering" is a useful in welding a difficult joint that has the puddle popping up with contaminants. This includes laying down a sacrificial pass or two of weld metal that is then ground out before attempting to weld out the joint. The oxide scavengers in the welding consumable will often eliminate enough of the contamination to successfully complete (pass x-ray inspection) the joint. Don't know if that would have been any help with this job.

I just realized I bought a tig torch for my Everlast from you guys 😂 and that grinder needs a higher amp hour battery to not stop like that , I have both of those Milwaukee grinders

Great instruction as always.... just wondering, what setup do you use for the arc shots? ISO, fstop, filters? Thanks

The M12 right angle grinders have some kind of load shutoff. They do great if you can keep them at high rpm and have a light touch. They work great with roloc flap and bristle disks. The big batteries are pretty much required to do any real work with them but I’m sold on them! If you don’t have the M12 Cutoff tool then you are definitely missing out! It fits into much tighter areas than a grinder and being able to reverse the blade direction is awesome for keeping sparks out of your face (or anywhere else you want to keep them away from)

first and foremost, thank you for sharing your expertise with us. you are a wealth of knowledge, and i know that many people have learned so much from you. (especially how to load a trailer,....) i am excited to see more fabrication content, and the news about more forthcoming is quite welcomed!! i am equally excited to hear of the plans for a specialized technical program in the works, and hope for outstanding success with that. i also hope that you can find the right people for the work. i believe that will just catapult your endeavors to the moon and beyond. all the best and keep well.

First time watching your channel & video. I was very impressed with your determination to fix this problem & you almost overcame it. True that the metal is oxidized or has so many little pin holes in it thats what the problem surely was. Sure, sandblasting may have a been a part of it but after 28 years in this industry I would still lean back on severe oxidation & fatigue of the metal. I would've either welded it out, tiger paw or grind out any porosity, welded up those spots then "tiger paw" or flapper sanded the whole weld putting down a light stringer then examining the weld for any defects, if none, sand it down yet again, clean it well with a solvent then go for the "full monty". My second choice would be to cut it off nearest to the base metal & ship the piece off to a company that could replicate the piece, get it back into my shop & weld it back onto the original piece. Sure, its more costly but your dealing with aviation parts that help or make the engine run. Thats not the exhaust of your buddies side by side or a 4 wheeler. Good video & I know your cooking hot in Nevada at a dry heat of 115. Try doing what your doing in deep south Louisiana at 11 0 with the heat index at nearly 100%!!!! Good luck brother & keep on doing what your doing!

I wonder if the lead in the leaded gasoline used in old aviation fuel had deposited on the piece. Could contribute to your sore throat.

I have both of those Milwaukee 1/4 grinders as well. I run the 5ah batteries on them and they just do that with big wheels. 1.5" wire wheel works best from what I've done so far. Or a sanding disc

Super job, very typical of used up aviation exhaust. Good amount of LEAD contamination, heat cycles and the parts are THIN. Operational cycles also thins the wall of the tubing due to erosion. I do this kind of repair frequently. Challenging to do and be airworthy.

That’s a 90 degree die grinder you got there Justin. High speed low torque. It’s for die grinding haha not for chucking a huge wire wheel on. Thats some awesome news, I’m happy it’s coming together for ya!

I have that lil angel grinder it works well if you use small diameter attachments.

We get all our plane exhaust parts fabricated from new metal. Two companies Plane Exhaust & AWI fabricate those old plane exhaust pipes and mufflers from scratch.

I think your issue is with the small 1.5ah 12V battery, for my right angle grinder I use a 6AH battery and never have the load down issue you're having. Hope that helps. So what cleaning method would have been best if not blasting, would a different media would have been better like walnut or metal oxide or chemical dipping?

hey Justin, If it was going on aircraft It's SOP to back gas otherwise you will get embrittlment (sugar baby). I wold use a 347 rod .035" or .045" on this, most AC exhaust is around .060" unless it's on a turbo which is usually a little heavier. I really enjoy your video's, Thanks!

If it’s not going back in the plane I would recommend pure nickel filler rod or silicon bronze

You handled that job like a champ

Looks just like my first 2 years tig welding. And I have the same polisher / grinder. Mine does the same.

Good stuff. Get the 6 ah battery for your right angle grinder.

Right On in many ways!!

Would brazing be an alternative in cases like that. Could the weird coloring be leaded gas, or some other additive they used back in the day on old motors

For parts like that would it be worth bringing up to a very high heat for a while in a heat treating oven or similar before cleaning/welding to burn off as much contamination as possible?

If a person needed to blast that manifold, would it be best to use a stainless shot media on it? Is there a chemical process that would have been ok for the cleaning?

I have the same issue with a wire wheel that large on the M12 right angle die grinder. The Roloks are ok.

Hi Justin: Thank you so much for your great instructional videos! I would love to work with you at some point, when I get my small boat fabrication business up and running. With regard the the Milwaukee M-12 tool... I prefer Milwaukee and Dewalt. I have several of both. The only Milwauker tool I was dissapointed in is my M-18 hammer drill. It only drilled 7 holes before failing. On the other hand, my M-18 drill, 1/4" hex tool driver, grease gun, and 4.5" grinder work great, (though the grinder goes through batteries quickly.) As for the repair jobs you showed, I thank the person providing the examples of what to reject. The customer would be much better off having you fabricate a new exhaust system from scratch than having you waste your vauable time, (with the 3xception of this valuable learning opportunity,) trying to save a dime at the expense of humdreds of dollars. Keep up the good work!

That wheel is to big for that die grinder. I also found out the hard way that the electric ones (that I've seen) are only rated for up to 2". At least the Milwaukee's say it on the box (which of course, we don't read)... other brands have that information buried 10 pages into the manual. With a smaller wheel installed, I've been very happy with mine.

Hey Justin those Milwaukee M12 are great got them my self but the bad downfall is they have protections in them out of balance it doesn't like and heavy stress on it they don't like that's their downfall 3 in max

With the main component when you couldn't get to the inside, would it be better to maark it, cut it open, clean it then weld it back together?

Those grinders are actually amazing, but with a max diameter of 2" wheels, 4" for cutting wheels. the ryobi version works better for larger wheels because it only cuts out when temp gets too high vs the Milwaukee that goes off of load.

2:50 in, if THIS dude is like "it's not easy to work on" ....yeah bro, imma take your word for it 😂

Man it was hilarious watching you go through my same experience with the milwaukee diegrinder, I later read the manual, and the wheel we were using is too big, try to only use wheels under 2" if I remember correctly, then it would only cut out under heavy loads, otherwise it will work just fine, and no, it will not replace your air tools, I had the same dream, but electric tools dont cut it

Remember Justin Your health is more important than the audio. You come first all other crap comes second. Wear the respirator and never mind the audio quality. We can handle it