Your entirely too kind and thank you. I just want to help people out and provide useful information 😀

Right away we knew this guys a pro.

Well said Sir.

No short cuts! Nice video

Thanks for the kind words 😀. I wanted to share what I know with others for a few reasons. The first being that it’s sort of useless having all the knowledge I have if I don’t share it with someone (preferably multiple people. Second, I am doing things already so it’s not hard to bring a camera along for the ride. And third, I am hopeful I can inspire some people to pickup skills. Being able to make/build stuff is a great skill that I don’t want to see lost with time. It’s also a great way out of poverty/bad situations (something I know a lot about) so hopefully I can help be a part of helping others out. With that said the best thing you can do to learn stick is to commit to practicing. Stick welding can be frustrating and patience testing. Just focus on trying to be as smooth and consistent as possible. Even if you never weld for a living it’s a great skill to have. If you ever have something that’s broken like a tractor, tv stand, or a car exhaust, for a 100-200$ welder you can fix it yourself. Now a tv stand might be cheaper than that lol but that price is cheaper than a muffler shop would charge to replace a few pieces of exhaust. Not to mention you can make money doing repairs on the side like I do. Edit: my email is weldingoldschool@gmail.com. I will be switching it to a new one coming up but I can be reached there for the time being.

Thanks so much for the kind comment. My hope is that I can inspire people and give them some useable knowledge that will help with achieving whatever it is that they want. It’s my turn to pass the torch 😀.

You're entirely welcome. Nobody is ever too late for the game, what matters is showing up and putting in some effort. I poorly welded from 16 to 20, left it completely for 14 years or so, and came back to focus on mastering what I could. Being young has the disadvantage of poor patience and a lack of overall knowledge lol.

Thanks for sharing and you are correct. If the tie down is being welded to thin material (under 1/4in) it is a benefit to weld the d ring to a plate and then weld the plate to the material. It will be less likely to fatigue crack the material vs direct welding it.

Great advice for a new guy like me

You’re welcome, glad it helped you out 😀

You’re welcome, glad the info helped 😀

Thanks for the kind words 😀. My main hope was to help people make the right decision on how to tackle the project. It’s not a hard project per say, but if someone tackles it with the wrong tool or in the wrong way there is definitely some liability.

You're welcome, glad I could help you out 😀

No problem, I am glad it helped 😃.

Glad I helped you out 😀. I am hoping to help people gain the knowledge and confidence to tackle projects

You are succeeding. I have 10 D-Rings in a box to weld on tractor, trailer, etc. I've been doing "farmer" welding for 25 years and I've learned things each time I've watched one of your vids. Look forward to your vids. Thanks😁

@@prow6586 well I bet you’ll do a great job for sure now 😀. Just remember to make sure the d ring is in the loop before you weld it. Yes I made that mistake once 😅

No problem 😀

Honestly I am more of a fan of stick for stuff like that too. It seems to be flat out reliable, consistent, and strong.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg 7018 is a must in our shop for anything that could come apart and kill someone.

Glad it helped you out 😀

@@makingmistakeswithgreg You have no idea how much your videos help us out. Thanks again!

Sounds like you did a solid job on it lol. I have never welded on dumpsters or garbage trucks, but I can imagine the smell as the area gets hot 😅.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg it's really weird, it smells kind of like a barbecue, if you are barbecuing week old spoiled food 🤣🤣🤣

I work in sewage treatment and the smell of a hot dumpster that held food or a garbage can is far worse than stuff I commonly smell lol.

I have been welding a ton of hooks like that (and bigger sizes) onto excavator buckets lately. A bunch of the original hooks had failed welds due to someone doing a lot of things wrong (not enough weld, poor beveling, short circuit welded, etc). To date I have not had a single hook fail, it pays to do a solid job on them 😀

Not a bad idea, the biggest limitation to that thought is access to the backside. In the situation I had it was accessible but in many situations it may not be. Your idea would also likely somewhat reduce the warping of the plate. It really comes down to how thick of material you’re welding it too and what the access is.

I have a new stick welder in the shop and a drawer full of those, I think I will tackle doing a part two soon. Tacking on the sides would work on the hooks. The main thing about tacking is if you must run hot to get fusion. With stick, tack welds generally have good fusion. With short arc Mig the fusion is more limited on a tack. It’s also wise to stager starts and stops of welds on a multi pass weld. The start and stop is the most likely place to have weld defects (porosity, lack of fusion, etc) so having all of them in a row is undesirable.

So there are a bunch of things to consider, hope this helps: Straight Gasless flux core Lincoln NR-211 wire is rated (per Lincoln) up to 5/16th thick (with .045). Hobart fabshield 21b is rated for up to 3/4 thick, but they don’t specify wire size. From a educated guess a 170amp welder could weld around 3/8th with Gasless flux core wire with decent penetration. Dual shield type (gas shielded flux core wire) in .045 would have no issue welding 1/2in plate plus, however there are some caveats to this. A 170 amp welder is only capable of outputting enough power to run the wire at the low end of suggested values. I would think you would tend to get unpredictable results running .045 dual shield on something 3/8th and thicker with only 170 amps (the machines max voltage would also play a role). Remember that the flux in the wire needs to be preheated before it hits the puddle (thus long stickouts are used). Well when you run a big wire on the low side of amperage it may cause issues with porosity due to flux turning to gas inside the weld pool. I am not sure if the titanium 170 has a .045 drive roll with it or available. They do make .035 dual shield wire that would work with a 170 amp machine (esab does) with a practical thickness limitation of probably around 3/8 to possible 1/2in thick. Again the thickness limitation is mostly a function of the limited voltage and amperage of the machine than the wire. The cheapest way to weld thick steel reliably is stick welding. Harbor freights 225 stick welder can weld virtually unlimited thickness metal for under 300$. With wire welders your best bet is flux core (gas or Gasless) but you still need around a 200 amp capable machine to really get solid clean welds and penetration on over 3/8th plates. In the future I will test a 140amp machine with .035 dual shield on thick plate to see what it does 😀

@@makingmistakeswithgreg wow, thank you! Earlier I was looking, no the 170 doesn’t come with a .045 drive roll. I couldn’t find one for sale either. The 200 multiprocess does come with a .045” drive roll. I just pricked up the Titanium stick 225 a few weeks ago. The project I’m working on requires vertical and upside down welds on 1/4- 1/2”. I haven’t stick welded in 25 years. Im getting the hang of it again. Meanwhile my Hobart 125 went down (kinda) so I used that as justification to get the Titanium 125 for $150 with coupon a couple days ago. Now I can get the Titanium 170 for $300 till the 30th. You’re spot on with 3/8 rating for it with .035” Thanks again for the advice. I’m probably just going to hone my stick welding skills so I can weld in different positions.

Heating the plate will make the metal more “pliable” and will lengthen the time it takes for the weld to cool which may reduce shrinkage of the weld. Warping is primarily a result of the molten pool (or hot steel) solidifying and reducing in size as it cools. It’s the opposite of water which expands when it cools. How much it would help is hard to say. Generally speaking a low 120-150 degree preheat helps on thicker steel across the board.

Great thought. I do have 1/2 inch plate. The only potential problem I have is my shop press claims to be 12 ton but it’s pretty hard to pump it beyond 9ton. I will give it a shot. Worst case is I will have to use the 100 ton at my work lol.

Glad to hear you learned a lot 😀. So the only true way to know if your settings are appropriate is to visually look at it, and determine if it appears that the weld has melted the materials together. That is not concrete however, that is where a cut and etch counts. certain processes like stick welding are very consistent, if the weld appears a certain way there is going to be proper penetration/fusion. With processes like Mig, it’s possible for the weld to look decent but have poor penetration. Mig weld appearance is simply less trust worthy than stick. That’s why doing a simple test weld on identical thickness materials and cut&etch it matters.

I probably could do that, I will have to see if I can find some weldable hinges :0

From a standpoint of strength it would be best to stick weld it all the way out. If you have a 200+ amp mig welder it could safely weld a smaller d ring that has a 1/4in thick weld on “u”. For the thicker ones that are 3/8th I wouldn’t do it with short arc and instead use spray arc of .045+ dual shield.

No problem 😀

I would avoid it. In my testing the difference in strength between 7018 and 6013 is significant. Would it hold? Well it depends. For a small d ring that has a 3/16th thick or 1/8th weld on loop you would probably be ok. For 1/4in or thicker (like what’s in the video) I would say 7018 is the only rod I would use.

So a couple tips. I can tell you from my own experience flux core has issues welding over 1/4in thick without porosity issues with .030 or .035 wire. Even if you don’t see it on the surface the internal weld is poor. How you solve this is running .045 or bigger self shielded wire. The unfortunate thing with this is many welders won’t run .045 wire (don’t have rollers, liners, tips, enough power, etc, available. If yours does have the capability you will likely be able to weld 3/8th without porosity issues. Edit: if you decide to give it a shot run a weld and cut it open with a cut/etch. If you see porosity you will have very weak welds. On a flat plate butt weld it will probably be ok, anything resembling a fillet weld it won’t be (too thick of a molten pool).

@@makingmistakeswithgreg 10-4, thanks a lot. Sounds like once again, the trusty stick welder still has its place 😁👍

That could have been done that way yes. The issue I have with that is the part that holds the D ring is made of unknown steel. If it happens to be higher strength steel the hydrogen induced by the 6010 could cause cracking issues, especially if its being welded to higher strength base steel. Most of the benefit of the 6010 pass is negated by the slight bevel I made in the loop and the fact I welded around both edges. The penetration 6010 provides prevents the metal from lifting and using the weld as a fulcrum point, but wrapping around the corners along with the bevel prevents the loop from easily lifting off the plate also. I would trust the strength of 7018 over 6010 in the case of this. You must remember most things that are welded with 6010 as a root are things like pipe, and the stresses on pipe are completely different than a d-ring. They are either internally (pressurized pipe) or externally if they they are bent due to soil movement. What works for them (where you have full internal weld reinforcement) and what would work on a single sided weld without full fusion are completely different things. 7018 also performs far better when cold, and in my own testing it has proven to significantly surpass the strength of 6010.

I would have reached for small diameter 6011, but Greg is right, those forgings will have some carbon in them. (Let's hope they aren't mild steel!) Nice tips on how to make these welds strong. Thanks!

For d rings I would say sure, if they aren’t going to be used for heavy lifting. For the chain hooks, they are forged and of high enough strength that you should use properly stored 7018 to avoid introducing hydrogen into the material. Realistically both would not likely fail welded with 6010 or 6011 but it really comes down to expected use. Hopefully that helps.

Based on my testing AC has less penetration than dc. My recommendation would be DCEP for sure. For people that have AC only obviously there won’t be that choice, but DCEP for everyone else 😀

@@makingmistakeswithgreg I appreciate the reply! Thank you. The video was real helpful.

I 100% agree with that lol. Fleet farm has far more useful stuff, a gun store, and better clothing 😀

Spray or globular can handle those d rings or chain hooks all day for sure 😀

So the titanium 125 can successfully weld 1/4inch in my hands on testing. The d shackles in the video could be welded on provided what they are getting welded to is 1/4 in thick or less. To prep it I would grind the weld on loop down to point and I would regrind the bevel a bit more open. Run hot and do 2 passes minimum. The hooks are realistically beyond the safe welding capability of the 125. It’s possible it would be able to weld it but I would do weld/cut/etches to look before I would call it strong enough. The d shackles are much easier and with proper prep (and some skill) shouldn’t be too hard. Edit: make sure you use Lincoln’s nr-212 or other E71T-mp wire that’s rated for multi pass welding. The -GS wire is not suitable for multi pass welds and the specification of that wire is almost nothing.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Excellent info. Thanks again for the tips and replying man!

@@sjlouvieify no problem 😀

You could use 6010 to do a root pass but with the way the loading is I would avoid it. Since the stress will be pulling the u-plate straight off the plate, a lower tensile rods weld could fail.

Man I wish I could help but I don’t know anyone who is a structural engineer. What you’re talking about wouldn’t be hard to actually calculate out the design/strength requirements, but without a legit stamp a city doesn’t care :(.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg yeah, love them gov workers. they are here to help you. lol

You will put down a solid bead of 98% porosity lol.

Haha it might hold, but being fast at ducking will be a must under decent loads lol.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Yep, Weld and run. dont look back.

Grounding to a table is no different than grounding on a trailer near where you’re welding. Grounding on that particular plate would just mean the ground clamp gets spatter on it which is not ideal. You can also induce arc blow by clamping to your work piece over clamping to a thick table due to the resistance of hot metal. Also, regarding the angle grinder, I run a grinder the way I want to. Its not complacency when I have been up front about it in numerous videos. That particular grinder doesn’t have much power and I am wearing a welding hood, so the risk is virtually zero. You can choose to run the same grinder different, that’s up to you.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg well at least clean the dingleberries off of your table.

What about my welds isn’t proper? I literally welded left hand, right hand, left to right, right to left, and with a camera in my face. I showed a realistic approach to the task, talked about any mistakes that were present, and tips on how to do the job. I think you missed the point of the video, if everything was absolutely perfect there wouldn’t be much of a how to video. Also, starting porosity is non existent with 7018s that have graphite tips, there is little to no need to start ahead and long arc with such rods.

I was not aware of the start capabilities of 7018s...but as far as your welds...leaves much to be desired.

thes comment made me hungary

for

cheese

and

crackers 4 months later