See my reply below under Cody Barksdale's post

I hate backing plates and trying to penetrate with 6010. Trying open root today at school instead.

@@dolphincliffs8864 I’m on 6G

@@Royalewitchee Cool! Did my first plate and bend test,not terrible.

@@dolphincliffs8864 did u pass

Good weld

ayos bos galing, gwapo mo pa

Are you in welding school? I just recently figured out how to do the E6010 root pass. I prefer a 1/8” gap and land and run the 1/8” E6010 on 85 amps. It requires very little manipulation.

@@user-hn9qg5qm3o after the plate is being tacked. What causes the huge middle gap in the middle is it because of pushing the grinder too hard or ?

@@patriotskingnation8084 I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking about. Can you further explain?

@@patriotskingnation8084 Don't stop the grinder in the middle. It take very little pressure to grind, so let the tool do the work, and move all the way down the plate. Good luck!

@@user-hn9qg5qm3o He is digging with the grinder, stopping at the middle of the plate, So the edges are not true.

Guess they don't reply to such?

I like it...🔥❤️

*What Other Guy?*

You comment on every video saying the same thing. Go watch something else damn

@@cookd31 right. How'd you like to work with that guy?

You're very funny.

Go on weld tube. I’m assuming you want pipeline is usually downhill welding easier to learn but have to be quicker in my opinion since is all about speed

If you have a 3/32" gap and 3/32" land or a 1/8" gap and 1/8" land then you can run anywhere between 75-85 amps for the root pass using a Lincoln Electric 1/8" E6010 5P+ rod. When you run it at 75 amps, you will have to go a little slower because remember "amps equals heat." You will have to go a little bit slower because you won't fully penetrate the gap onto the back side if you go too fast. I personally like to put a 1/8" gap and 1/8" land on my 3/8" plate with 37.5 degrees of bevel. I run my amperage at 85 amps and I make sure to keep the rod pushed into the front half of the keyhole. You should feel light pressure as you keep the rod pushed up inside the keyhole where it brushes/nudges against the front rim of the keyhole. You shouldn't have to manipulate the rod very much. Many people think you have to really whip the rod around, which ends up making a mess. All you do is keep the tip of the burning rod pushed into the front half of the keyhole and gradually nudge the gap edges (front/leading rim of the keyhole) and it will melt away, causing your keyhole to extend forward some. However, the metal you are melting from the rod tip will also trickle into the back half of the keyhole and fill it in as you continue nudging forward with the tip of the rod. So basically the keyhole will essentially follow the tip of the rod if you are keeping it up in there. You can nudge forward with tiny little cursive e movements (tight little tiny circles), but it's very small, which is why I keep saying "nudge". The key to the root pass is keep the rod pushed up into the keyhole at the front or leading edge of the keyhole. If you don't see a small keyhole then you are not penetrating through to the back side, so you must always see a keyhole throughout until the end. Keep the rod pointed up slightly toward the top root land (little asterisk here in my depiction) throughout the root pass and make small little wiggles/nudges forward. Make sure you see the keyhole stay centered along the length of the gap. You will see the back side of the keyhole fill in on it's on if you have your amperage set right at about 80-85 amps (|(|(|(|(|(|(|(|(|(|( *)===================== (weld example here is a root pass from left to right)

good!

Hello, what number of glass / lens do you use for 2g? or in general which one do you recommend for smaw welding.

@J As a real world Welder myself, You did better in your comment at explaining exactly how it's done than ANY video on the internet!

2.5mm